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MetalAnon

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About MetalAnon

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  1. Solution to this problem...
  2. MetalAnon

    Remote Start

    I just came across this FordTechMakULoco vid yesterday. It's not directly the same problem, but Brian explains the door/hood switch issue common to our beloved Fords. Interesting if not helpful at least. Hope it helps someone. www. youtube.com/watch?v=xBc_QHj3wlM
  3. MetalAnon

    LED headlights

    I bought these for our 2016 Sport... LOVE 'em!!! Bullvision D3S LEDs 45w per bulb (90w per pair) 6500K... Direct replacements that use the factory HID ballasts. 100% Plug n play . They are much brighter and whiter than the miserable factory HIDs and match our signature lights down below. We've had not a single issue with these bulbs what-so-ever for almost two years in MN. Through our hot and humid summers clear down to -14F degrees ambient temp, (-40F with wind chill) just a few days ago. Not even a flicker! Hope this helps! LINK: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802757275161.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.65.463718025ADulY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
  4. Not to nitpick an "ASE master tech", but I think you mean valve train? I'm pretty sure the "drivetrain" needs not be removed to do the 3.5L water pump. Just sayin'. 😜
  5. MetalAnon

    Hello from MN

    Welcome! Good to see another Minnesota Edge pilot joinin' the fray.
  6. MetalAnon

    Remote Start

    Whoops, my bad for confusing this. 😬 Thanks for pointing out my mistake @omar302, will help for future reference indeed.
  7. MetalAnon

    Remote Start

    Found this on the Forscan forum, apparently there's even a TSB that addresses the greyed out climate control menu options within remote start menu... https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11666 Turns out @WWWPerfA_ZN0W (not MACT lol) shared this TSB previously here...
  8. Thanks man... you are a wealth of knowledge! That setup then seems kinda wasteful from an engineering standpoint. Guess I'll have to do some digging to find out more about the housing's durability. OR... perhaps, since the H15 is dual filament, we could simply run a jumper and/or relay from the high beam circuit to that unused 55w filament... things that make ya go hmmmm....?
  9. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    OOPS... now that i look closer I se your deflectors also go down to the sill . my bad
  10. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    NICE! Not too many in that color around me... are those wheels the 21"? Yeah the rear wind noise issue was specifically regarding the WeatherTech deflectors. One reason we wanted WeatherTech is the leading edge of the front deflectors. It follows the front channel all the way to the window sill in front of the mirror. See attached image... kinda tough to see with it all being black but hopefully you can see it better in this pic.
  11. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    You went with the WeatherTechs?
  12. Thanks for the reply @omar302! I guess I hadn't really considered it since we don't have a 2019, but I certainly want to avoid passing along any erroneous info so thanks for pointing that out! I'm guessing that the weak performance of these HIDs is likely due to their age. They clearly fire up very bright, but then quickly tune down once they have started. Not sure if that is indicative of tired bulbs or ballasts or both, I'm learning HIDs as I go. Like I mentioned, I have not dug into the lights yet, it's been ridiculously cold in MN the past couple weeks, but I will soon in order to determine what hardware is indeed installed currently. I appreciate the recommendations, I've read quite a bit about both the Night Breakers and XtremeVisions, but coming from halogen equipped cars, I find $200+ for bulbs less than palatable and likely only a serious last resort option and despite the numerous videos out there showing increases in brightness with the Night Breaker in particular, I find it hard to believe the bulbs by themselves can increase brightness without boosting the power feeding them. But again, I'm learning HIDs as I go. TBH I am puzzled that there seem to be zero direct replacement ballasts over 35 watts for the Ford applications. I would think the market for 55w+ direct replacement ballasts would be a sound one. As for the DRLs (which I mistakenly called H11 in the post), the H15 seems to be a 55w bulb so I would assume the reflector housing for that would be substantial enough to home a 9005 or the like. I think I might see what I can put together for the wiring to repurpose that inboard bulb position to come on with the high beams. I can't imagine it would be too difficult with the proper schematic and perhaps a relay run from the high beam switch for the additional load. I'm curious anyhow.
  13. MetalAnon

    IMG_20211216_160711.jpg

    Thanks @niceonept! We opted only for the front windows because in my researching these deflectors, numerous people online had said that the rears were troublesome, not wanting to stay securely in the channels and they created a lot of wind noise even with the windows closed completely. Plus it saved us about $50.
  14. MetalAnon

    MetalAnon's '16 Sport

    Currently stock with WeatherTech front window deflectors.
  15. Installed Weathertech window deflectors (part #80796 front pair only) on the front windows. Chose only the fronts since I read many reports that the rears create a lot of wind noise. Installation was easy enough, made sure the front lip was installed on the OUTSIDE of the window trim (as the instructions emphasize and a brightly colored sticker on the deflector itself). I did wind up with a couple small chips broken out of the rear end of both deflectors, the part that installs in the channel, so its not visible from the outside and does not effect form or function. It seems the thickness of that portion of the deflectors could have been a touch thinner, but I'm happy with the end result.
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