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MetalAnon

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  1. GREAT post @Haz! It's been awhile since I checked on this thread, but I have been thinking about an idea in the interim that I have not seen anyone else bring up... and the workshop manual informations piqued my interest further, should be quite helpful. Specifically, I am seeking to make use of the DRL positions (inboard spots in the housing) since I personally disable the DRLs and they are wasting space. I'm looking to make the those inboard positions function as and with the high beams, in addition to the (low/high shutter) high beams in the outboard positions. So that when the high beams are activated, our Edge would have four bulbs to throw an obscene amount of forward light down the road. So since I have swapped out the factory D3S HID bulbs to aftermarket LED D3S bulbs which simply plug n play with the factory HID ballasts. The shutter the HIDs utilize also made the swap easier and the LEDs work supremely and considerably brighter than the OE HID bulbs without blinding oncoming drivers. I hadn't considered Ford's use of the Field Effect Transistor (FET) in the BCM, so ironing that out may require additional brain power but I'll cross that bridge once im there. So the idea is to splice a pigtail into the HID high beam wiring and install it in the DRL position but I haven't examined it in detail yet. I just wanted to post something about it while I was here and had it on my mind. Damn life has been hectic lately and I have been known to forget things before I get them down on a bar napkin. Should prolly start another post for such a project but I thought this thread would be a good a place as any for sharing. Ok now I gotta get some sleep.
  2. Could this be the problem? I realize this is a 2.0L Ecoboost in the video, but like he says, this rattle he refers to is not an engine problem it a turbo problem and could easily happen to a 2.7L Ecoboost. Not sure if this is your problem but at least you can compare the sound. HTH
  3. Disabling DRLs through the cluster only affects the inboard (high beam position) and should not have any influence on the outboard bulb position. At least on our 2016 Sport with factory HID projectors, that’s how it works.
  4. I just came across this FordTechMakULoco vid yesterday. It's not directly the same problem, but Brian explains the door/hood switch issue common to our beloved Fords. Interesting if not helpful at least. Hope it helps someone. www. youtube.com/watch?v=xBc_QHj3wlM
  5. I bought these for our 2016 Sport... LOVE 'em!!! Bullvision D3S LEDs 45w per bulb (90w per pair) 6500K... Direct replacements that use the factory HID ballasts. 100% Plug n play . They are much brighter and whiter than the miserable factory HIDs and match our signature lights down below. We've had not a single issue with these bulbs what-so-ever for almost two years in MN. Through our hot and humid summers clear down to -14F degrees ambient temp, (-40F with wind chill) just a few days ago. Not even a flicker! Hope this helps! LINK: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802757275161.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.65.463718025ADulY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
  6. Not to nitpick an "ASE master tech", but I think you mean valve train? I'm pretty sure the "drivetrain" needs not be removed to do the 3.5L water pump. Just sayin'. ?
  7. Welcome! Good to see another Minnesota Edge pilot joinin' the fray.
  8. Whoops, my bad for confusing this. ? Thanks for pointing out my mistake @omar302, will help for future reference indeed.
  9. Found this on the Forscan forum, apparently there's even a TSB that addresses the greyed out climate control menu options within remote start menu... https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11666 Turns out @WWWPerfA_ZN0W (not MACT lol) shared this TSB previously here...
  10. Thanks man... you are a wealth of knowledge! That setup then seems kinda wasteful from an engineering standpoint. Guess I'll have to do some digging to find out more about the housing's durability. OR... perhaps, since the H15 is dual filament, we could simply run a jumper and/or relay from the high beam circuit to that unused 55w filament... things that make ya go hmmmm....?
  11. OOPS... now that i look closer I se your deflectors also go down to the sill . my bad
  12. NICE! Not too many in that color around me... are those wheels the 21"? Yeah the rear wind noise issue was specifically regarding the WeatherTech deflectors. One reason we wanted WeatherTech is the leading edge of the front deflectors. It follows the front channel all the way to the window sill in front of the mirror. See attached image... kinda tough to see with it all being black but hopefully you can see it better in this pic.
  13. You went with the WeatherTechs?
  14. Thanks for the reply @omar302! I guess I hadn't really considered it since we don't have a 2019, but I certainly want to avoid passing along any erroneous info so thanks for pointing that out! I'm guessing that the weak performance of these HIDs is likely due to their age. They clearly fire up very bright, but then quickly tune down once they have started. Not sure if that is indicative of tired bulbs or ballasts or both, I'm learning HIDs as I go. Like I mentioned, I have not dug into the lights yet, it's been ridiculously cold in MN the past couple weeks, but I will soon in order to determine what hardware is indeed installed currently. I appreciate the recommendations, I've read quite a bit about both the Night Breakers and XtremeVisions, but coming from halogen equipped cars, I find $200+ for bulbs less than palatable and likely only a serious last resort option and despite the numerous videos out there showing increases in brightness with the Night Breaker in particular, I find it hard to believe the bulbs by themselves can increase brightness without boosting the power feeding them. But again, I'm learning HIDs as I go. TBH I am puzzled that there seem to be zero direct replacement ballasts over 35 watts for the Ford applications. I would think the market for 55w+ direct replacement ballasts would be a sound one. As for the DRLs (which I mistakenly called H11 in the post), the H15 seems to be a 55w bulb so I would assume the reflector housing for that would be substantial enough to home a 9005 or the like. I think I might see what I can put together for the wiring to repurpose that inboard bulb position to come on with the high beams. I can't imagine it would be too difficult with the proper schematic and perhaps a relay run from the high beam switch for the additional load. I'm curious anyhow.
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