ben senise

Something that has always bugged me on my 2020 Edge with Sync 3 is that if I'm using Android Auto and I want to change something on the Ford Sync system, like the steering wheel heater for example, i have to tap the screen so many times to get to the heater button and back. Or if you want to talk to the Ford Sync, you have to back out of Android Auto.

I got a 2023 Ford Transit with Sync 4 and a large tablet style display and Sync 4 has a very good solution to this problem. When Android Auto is on the screen, there is a mic icon. If you tap that, you talk to google assistant. If you press the "speak" button on the steering wheel, you get Ford Sync so you can say "set temp to x degrees."

I'm just wondering if there's any way to change the behavior on Sync 3 to match the behavior on Sync 4.

On 12/11/2023 at 11:16 AM, Chipster said:

Ben; I find myself need to replace the lug nuts on my 2016. Did you buy the Dorman, and if so how have they been? If you did not buy Dorman what did you go with and how have they done for you?

sorry for the late reply. i haven't been on the forum as much lately.

i eneded up buying the Gorilla 61148FS - LUG NUTS; FACTORY BULGE LUG 13/16" 14-1.50 CHR

i ordered some gorilla nuts but they were the wrong size on the tapered part. thread size and socket size were fine but the conical tapered part was fine. it seems that the "bulge" designation is important.

i've had them for about a year now and have changed tires 3x and they seem fine. i'm 100% satisfied.

my 2020 ST does that and my 2016 LTD did that as well. mine goes to some static filled AM station and i have to hit the off button every time.

i don't have a solution for you. just wanted to tell you that you're not alone. ?

1 hour ago, Odrapnew said:

I didn't review this full thread, but was there any mention of water in the intercooler?

I believe F150's had an issue with condensation buildup in the intercooler and when one would run it hard (WOT), it could suck in a bunch of water and caused issues.

Maybe this is similar with condensation/water in the intercooler, but not enough to cause engine issues?

Just a thought.

 

On the other side (exhaust), condensation/water buildup in the exhaust system sounds reasonable as well.

A long drive at highway speeds might not be enough to heat up the full exhaust system, so water builds up and doesn't 'boil off' until you really get on the throttle.

Just another thought.

i don't know that much about turbos but water in the intercooler sounds like a reasonable assumption and fits in with my deductive reasoning about the water being pre-combustion.

water being post-combustion, e.g. exhaust, doesn't really fit the evidence since i believe that air flow should push out any water. if i accelerated slowly and keep the gear selection in manual so i could rev the engine up in 2nd or 3rd, i wouldn't get the smoke. i would only see smoke when i put my foot to the floor. the latest thing i did was watch the turbo boost gauge. i always thought that the turbos would spin faster as the engine RPM rose. i was very surprised to see that i could have the engine between 5 and 6k RPM the the boost was at zero if i was light on the pedal. OTOH, i could get more boost at 2k RPM by stomping on it.

i need to find out what makes the turbos spin. i always thought that the exhaust just passed through the turbo making it spin. more exhaust, faster spin, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

8 hours ago, EddieHudson said:

Thanks for the update. I was wondering if it could be water in the gas?

i doubt it for a couple of reasons; first, why would i get smoke on WOT but not medium throttle, and second, the tank had the same gas in it before and after my winding it out a few times.

thought i'd update this post with my latest info and conclusions/hypothesis.

i was never very convinced by the leaking head gasket idea. i didn't have oil in the water or water in the oil. it was clearly water vapor as i noticed it fog up the outside of the rear window like a bathroom mirror after a hot shower only that it cleared two seconds after i took my foot off the gas.

i started looking at the turbo boost gauge and there was a direct correlation between boost and white smoke. some here suggested water post-combustion but i started thinking that it was possibly pre-combustion, in the turbo or intake somewhere.

so i wound out the engine, red-lining it, a few times in a row. watching the boost to to max. after a few runs like this, there was no more smoke. even after the car sat overnight in my garage, still no smoke the next day on WOT. I've driven it a few times since and still no more smoke.

it seems to me that there was water somewhere in the intake and that winding it out a few times cleared it. it would be interesting if anyone else with the same symptoms tried this and what results they got.

IIRC there was a recall or TSB on this issue a while back. i had a 2016 and took it in to be fixed. sorry i can't find it and don't have time right this moment.

On 1/1/2023 at 11:35 AM, Haz said:

Edge Workshop Manual partial diagnostic Pinpoint Test relating to Rain Sensor/Windshield Wiper effectiveness...

 

Good luck!

 

 

thanks for this info, i'll give it a try.

always, always, always RTFM

on another note, i have never driven a car where the rain sensing system works as well as i would expect it to, including my edge. they wipe when they don't need to and don't wipe when they need to. i've checked everything but the results are still not satisfactory.

On 12/28/2022 at 10:15 AM, jljbtm said:

I hate driving my wifes 2016 edge at night because the headlights are so dim my truck has nice white light

i had a 2016 with the standard halogen lights. they sucked so bad and i was so tired of white knuckling it home on the dark and winding road home with loads of deer, bears, and cougars that eventually i traded it in for a 2020 with LED headlights and they are infinitely better. vision at night is excellent. the adaptive lights that pivot left and right are great too. i tried various bulbs and toyed with the idea of putting LEDs of HIDs but it just didn't seem worth it. You've got to either change the headlight assembly or the whole car.

8 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

check to see if this tsb applies to you

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link

thanks!

mine is a 2020 built late 2019, november IIRC.

7 hours ago, 1004ron said:

The key is to monitor your coolant and oil level, and if there's no drop in either of those then its most likely climatic conditions causing water vapor from the exhaust.

i think that this is the approach that i will take for the moment.

so apart from losing coolant, what other detrimental effects would this leak have? is this a critical problem or an annoyance. going to the dealer is a major PITA for me ideally i'd like to wait for the next service.

3 hours ago, dabangsta said:

I frequently see this from other vehicles that are generally not driven hard, but for one reason or another (like...me in my lowly 11 year old sedan having the gall to pass them) they go WOT for a sustained period of time. Most of the time it is the 2.0 Ecoboost Escapes and Fusions. The smell of sulphur from them running extremely rich (not as bad as failing cat).

 

I think that light black smoke from a turbo engine going WOT due to being overly rich is common.

 

I never could get it to happen in my 2017 Escape with the 1.5, but it was driven at 75% most of the time, never babied, even by my wife.

 

Same with the tuner E85 crowd, but the smell is is different, but the tale tell soot on the bumper cover tells the real story.

i must say that i've been driving quite conservatively as is evidenced by my 10.1 liters/100 km fuel economy. 23.29 mpg (US gallon) according to a conversion website. just don't have the chance to drive it hard. 

interesting that you mention the sulphur smell. i did notice a very faint smell when i had my wife step on the gas but i couldn't identify it. now that you say sulphur, i think that's what it may have been but very very faint. i'll check it out again.

basically i just want to be sure that i'm not harming the engine or that it will fail the day after my drivetrain warranty expires.

On 12/13/2022 at 9:07 AM, bofus said:

I've noticed mine is doing this too. Drive around for 30+ minutes and under light/normal acceleration, nothing out the tail pipe. If I stomp on it, it's like I activated some smoke screen: you literally can't see anything in the rear view mirror other than white smoke. I don't appear to be burning oil or coolant and there's no odd noise. The smoke-on-startup issue appears to be caused by an oil pipe that feeds the turbo. I don't think my '15 2.7 did this, but my '18 2.7 ecoboost is doing it. It appears white, not blue; though, it can be hard to tell. Unburned fuel, maybe? No codes being thrown.

 

My "issue" sounds exactly the same at Ben's. It is cold here...35 degrees. I've not had the car long enough to know if it happens if it is warmer.

it was happening to me last summer and i was wondering if they put too much oil in during its last service. But i concluded that this was not the problem.

did you ever ask the dealer or mechanic about this problem? it does sound exactly like my issue as well.

to me, the white smoke that dissipates very quickly is more indicative of water/coolant rather than oil. when i've seen engines that put out blue smoke, that smoke seems to hang around a lot longer. this white stuff rises and disappears very quickly.

2 hours ago, CARR142 said:

Check this site, he did a write-up on this issue.

https://www.youtube.com/@FordTechMakuloco

the only video i could find was titled "2018-2020 Ford F-150 2.7L Ecoboost: Blue Smoke Upon Startup Confirmed Fix!"

two things; he's talking about blue smoke and it's on start-up. my problem is white smoke after driving a good distance and it's only on acceleration.

the oil level on my engine is at the top and the smoke doesn't smell like burning oil. so i'm thinking that either i don't have the right video or he's talking about a different problem.

thanks though.

14 hours ago, handfiler said:

Could be water building up in the exhaust from short trips. That should burn off after the engine gets up to temperature. Where I live it gets cold enough that cars constantly produce water vapor/steam clouds.

My guess is you have water building up in your exhaust which becomes a vapor when it meets the hot exhaust gases.

thanks for the suggestion but this occurs even when driving 50+ km. engine gets up to operating temp for sure. wouldn't any amount of water that had built up be gone by then? do you know any way to check for said water?

thanks

i'm a bit puzzled about something; when i accelerate,  i see quite a bit of white smoke coming out the exhaust. it dissipates immediately. it's not blue smoke like when a car is burning oil nor does it have that typical smell. it happens in warm or cold weather.

i checked the oil, and it's clear. checked the coolant and it's also clear. plugged in the OBD and no codes. levels on both were normal.

i had my wife stomp on the pedal and i went round back to smell the exhaust. it didn't seem to smell unusual but then again i don't go around sniffing exhaust very much.

nothings sounds or feels amiss while driving but stomping on the go pedal and winding it out produces quite a bit of smoke.

i'm wondering what to check next. anyone have any suggestions?

2020 ST with just over 15,000 km. (<10k miles) always running 91 octane.

On 12/10/2022 at 5:29 PM, handfiler said:

Breaker-bar to loosen, torque wrench to tighten and impact wrench to spin the lug nuts on and off. Going on 12 years now and the lug nuts on my Mustang are still looking good. 

i was using the breaker bar to loosen, torque wrench to tighten and an old fashioned "X" shaped lug nut wrench to spin them. i bought the impact wrench because i was tired of the work involved with using the breaker bar to loosen them.

i am puzzled by the fact that so many people don't have this problem and yet so many others do.

anyway, steel nuts are the solution for me so i'll pick up a set.

12 hours ago, 1004ron said:

If you use an impact wrench then you're right, a solid steel nut would be better.

i was having this problem even before i bought the impact wrench.

i do my own wheel changes twice a year (because there's always a mad rush as seasons change plus i want to have them changed when *I* want them changed.)

i use a 21mm socket with an impact drive to take them off. the problem is that the lug nuts get stuck in the socket so i loosen them, then rock the driver back and forth to loosen them, then continue until they're off. it's not the end of the world but it's a hassle that would be nice to avoid. the nuts themselves don't look distorted though. they just are. a solid steel nut would just be better.

i'll just try and pick up a gorilla or mcgard set next time i go south of the 49th.

2 hours ago, omar302 said:

I don't remember reading on this forum of anyone trying them, however, I found some reviews on Amazon. They seem to be good, but prone to rust/corrosion in winter conditions.

 

If you are still considering the OEMs, you can get them for about half the price as a Ford Performance part for the Mustang (link)

thanks for that info. i didn't think of looking for reviews on amazon. we have winter conditions here so no go for me.

the mustang lug nuts won't really solve the problem since they are the same design, just less expensive.

thanks

I'd like to replace the deformed original aluminum covered lug nuts with sold steel version. it's hard to find many of the brands like gorilla or mcgard. i have managed to find Dorman brand lug nuts 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-91463-611-007.aspx?year=2020&amp;make=Ford&amp;model=Edge&amp;parttype=Wheel%20Nut&amp;origin=YMM

has anyone here used Dorman lug nuts? if so, how was your experience?

thanks

3 hours ago, Sage said:

The only thing to come to my mind, on your visor you have three buttons try setting up one of the other buttons to see if that works any better. I don’t know maybe just a button you’re using is not working properly on the visor.

i will do that and report back what happens.

45 minutes ago, Davidoo said:

Can you get someone to be inside the garage when you try to open it to see if the lights on the opener flash or you hear any clicking sounds to indicate the opener motor is actually getting a signal from your homelink from your Edge?  I have a 22 ST and it opens and closes my Liftmaster just fine.  I know it seems odd that other openers can open it, but is it possible that the upward force needs to be turned up or the springs need to be adjusted tighter to help pull the door up?  Again, if the opener is receiving a signal there should be something you hear from inside or the light will flash.  If that's happening, maybe something else like I mentioned needs to be adjusted.  Just to verify, you are saying that any of the other physical remotes open the door 100% of the time?

since i'm sitting in the car, facing the open garage, i can see that nothing is going on. the motor is not engaging. it's just dead. i've never waited long enough for the lightbulb to go off but maybe i can try that in order to test your idea. thanks.

i don't usually keep the original remotes in the car. i only grabbed them when i started having this problem. so every time that i had the problem of homelink not closing the door, i used the remote and the door closed immediately upon the first click.

thanks to both of you. i'll report back on what i find.

i've been having trouble with the homelink on my 2020 Edge ST. my garage door will not close when i press the button on my visor.

interestingly, i have never had a problem opening the door even from a block away. i close the door by getting out of the car and pressing "enter" on the keypad mounted on the garage  wall (which is also wireless IIRC) but then when i get back home, i can always open the door from close or far (300m)

it seems to get worse. the problem occurred only once in a while but it gets progressively worse and then it won't work at all.

i erased and reprogrammed the homelink settings a few times as per instructions in the user manual and i followed the liftmaster instructions as well pressing the "learn" button on the motor. like i said, it works for a while but gets progressively worse over time. i've done this about three times now and always exactly the same.

the LED on the homelink flashes very rapidly when i press the programmed button. it just stays lit when i press either of the non-programmed buttons.

the remotes that came with the house work fine. i keep them put away with no batteries.

i'm not super familiar with the rolling codes tech but i'm wondering if this could be causing the problem. as i live in a development, all the houses on my block were built the same year. they all have the same hardware, e.g. liftmaster garage door openers. could someone else be messing up my opener?

after searching this forum, i have found other problems with homelink but not this same scenario.

any opinions on whether this is an issue with the car's homelink or with the liftmaster system? any ideas on what to do? and please don't suggest erasing and reprogramming. i've already done that three times.

thanks in advance