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ben senise

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Posts posted by ben senise

  1. 1 hour ago, akirby said:


    The RFID does work without a battery which is why you can start it with a dead battery but it has to be very close to the transceiver.  To work further away it needs the fob battery.

     

    the RFID never uses the battery. it can't. it's not wired to the battery in any way. you can take out the little "pill" and look at it. it is totally self-contained and waterproof. it's an antenna and a chip. the radio signal from the car energizes the circuit through the antenna. the chip processes the signal and transmits a new signal with the code. all of this is using extremely weak signals which is why, as you say, the key has to be close to the transmitter/receiver.

     

    the battery is only used for the transmitter functions of the key: lock, unlock, remote start, lift gate, panic, etc.

  2. On 8/31/2022 at 1:19 AM, yoni oppenhime said:

    Hello everyone
    I recently purchased a Ford Edge 2011 3.5 V6 SEL PLUS and I would appreciate it if you could help me with a few questions:
    1. Is it mandatory to place the vehicle's remote control in the compartment between the seats or the tray under the screen or can it be anywhere in the vehicle? At the moment I can only start the car in one of the situations described above and not from anywhere in the car.

    2. Remote start - unable to start the engine remotely. I press the lock button twice and immediately after that the start button but nothing happens.

    3. Is it worth upgrading the multimedia system to SYNC 3?

    Thank you very much and I hope you enjoy the car

     

    1. The RFID in the key-fob does not use the battery. It is passive. The car has a transmitter that emits a radio signal. The RFID captures that signal and sends it back with a code. The energy for this is from the radio signal, not the battery. If you are not able to start the car with the key in your pocket, but you are able to start it with the key in the position that you describe, then there is another problem. 

     

    2. Do you have the owner's manual? it's quite helpful for things like this. My 2020 says:

    Quote

    The remote start system does not work if:
    • The ignition is on.
    • The alarm system is triggered.
    • You switch off the feature in the
    information display. See Information
    Displays (page 105).
    • The hood is open.
    • The transmission is not in park (P).
    • The vehicle battery voltage is too low.
    • The service engine soon light is on.

     

    i would guess that yours is similar. any of those points true?

     

    3. worth upgrading? that's up to you. for me the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze. i would possibly just get an aftermarket radio.

  3. On 8/21/2022 at 11:30 PM, McToberson said:

    Do you have the B&O sub? Most people have said they used 1/6-1/4 of a 16oz bag of fill.  For my 2021, I ended up using 3/4 of a bag.  I didn't force any in; just added enough where I had a little resistance when pressing on the stuffing.  Where I'm confused is how much we should be adding.  Should the polyfill fill the box, but have zero density, or should there be some density and resistance?  Some pages say you should be using 1-1.5lbs of polyfill per cubic foot..  I've searched the net for the dimensions of the factory sub box but no dice.  I guess I'm taking the enclosure back out again and calculating the cubic volume... ugh.. I hate being an overthinker.  Why am I even thinking about this if it sounded good after install?  Well, it sounded great after install, while sitting in my driveway, but once I got out on the highway the next day, It didn't sound as good as it did after install, especially at higher volumes.  I feel like I may have added too much. 

     

    you should be able to eyeball the cubic foot. it doesn't have to be precise.

     

    from what i know, the filling should be fairly loose. no resistance to speak of when you touch it. it should not feel solid by any means. far from it.

    • Like 1
  4. 4 hours ago, McToberson said:

    Just followed this guide and did my 2021 ST. They don’t use a grill on the sub. The side interior panel is the grill. 4 torx screws around the sub and adhesive. Just slowly pry with a trim tool. Sub attached to the car with 2 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut on a long stud. Use a deep socket. There was zero stuffing of any kind inside the enclosure. Cheap paper sub with a surprisingly heavier than expected magnet. There is a small external amp leading to the sub with 4 wires.. I’m guessing you could swap the sub with an aftermarket if you could figure out the wiring, ohms and how many watts the amp puts out? Aside from the differences in the enclosure, the guide was spot on. Bass hits like a real sub now. Deep, full and surprisingly powerful ?

     

    i think you have convinced me that i should do that to my 2020 ST!

  5. On 7/14/2022 at 4:04 PM, EddieHudson said:

    Thanks for the reply but I don't understand it. Buy a second set of what? I have 5 original Ford wheels with TPMS sensors. 4 on the car, 1 for the spare. I was wondering if I could train the system to recognize 5 wheels instead of 4. If I can't then I would have to do a total reset if I got a flat. It only takes a couple of minutes to make the light go off. 

     

    what is the reason for you wanting the system to read a fifth wheel? so you can monitor the spare while it's in the back? or are you worried about having to perform a manual reset after changing a tire due to a flat?

    the car only has for sensors so it can't monitor the spare tire. would be cool if it could but alas.

    if it's the latter, don't worry. the system will automatically read whatever tire is placed on the car. i have summer and winter tires and never had to reset anything. just drive a little distance and everything works.

    i also carry a small tire compressor so i could top up the spare if needed. but checking it on a regular basis is still the best.

    • Like 2
  6. 4 hours ago, handfiler said:

    As much as I enjoyed the convenience of the AA wireless module, I stopped using it a while back. Using the module in conjunction with wireless charging put too much stress (heat) on the phones battery for my liking. Battery temperatures came down to low 30's from mid 40's (C) using a wired connection.

    My compromise solution was to fit my devices with magnetic USB quick connectors. USB C Magnetic Adapters 

    Some things to consider if battery longevity is a concern.

     

    i have never seen magnetic connectors like that. excellent idea. i think i'll grab one of those.

    i used to have a wired dock but i got worried that the cops would bust me for it since they are really cracking down on distracted driving. they've busted people with their phones sitting in the console while plugged in. not even using them.

    just from a technical point of view, i'd still like to know if it's possible to up the wattage though.

  7. i was worried about this but went ahead anyway.

     

    i finally managed to snag a "motorola" MA1 wireless adapter for android auto. it works perfectly.

     

    when i used my pixel 5, i plugged it in to a USB cable and it charged fairly quickly. now when i use AA wirelessly, i lose a bit of battery power even when the phone is on the wireless charging pad. i just drove an hour using googlemaps and listening to tidal and i lost a few percentage points of my battery. not a huge deal and i could deal with this on a longer trip by plugging in the phone like i used to.

     

    i did a quick search online and nothing popped out so i thought i'd post something here before i go to bed so that tomorrow i will wake up and magically find the solution to this problem here on this forum. ?

     

    i have to verify but i think my phone can charge wirelessly at up to 10w. i'm guessing that the Qi pad in the edge is 5w. i'm going to look for a way to increase that power. an updated component? a hack? i'm open to suggestions.

  8. i concur with @akirby 100%. No way i would touch that without an estimate. i was on another forum years ago where someone had a similar crash sitting at a red light in a left-turn lane. everyone else said that it was probably not too bad. i said the car was totaled because they hit the wheel. it turned out that the car was totaled. 

    i'm not saying that this Edge is totaled but it is severely damaged. i would only buy it if it were almost free.

  9. a couple of points that may or may not be related;

    1- measured voltage is irrelevant. it can still show 12+v and not have enough juice to crank. i had that happen and the cause was a cracked cell. still showed good voltage but not enough current would flow.

    2- the batteries in the key fobs are for the lock/unlock and engine start transmit function. the anti-theft chip in the key is passive (RFID). it works without a battery and you can test it.

     

    the fact that you removed the terminal and replaced it could mean that you may have dislodged corrosion on the battery post. do you have a battery post cleaner brush? google it if you're not familiar. that would be my first step.

    • Like 2
  10. On 4/5/2022 at 10:20 AM, Dirkalo said:

    Hello all,

    I'm in process of purchasing a 2019 Edge SEL and wanted to join a group of people who own the vehicle to get tips and insight on what I hope becomes my favorite purchase to date.

     

    welcome. please post some pics. that's par for the course around these parts. ?

  11. On 3/28/2022 at 2:29 AM, Woodboss53 said:

    I have a 2014 Edge SEL and the headlights are crap. It seems like when I turn them on, something is blocking the beam. They shine about 3 feet. Almost like I have only the parking lights on. What's going on with them. Can't drive it at night.

     

    i had a 2016 with stock headlamps. the headlight performance was so bad that i traded it in for a 2020 ST with LED headlamps. Those are great.

    I live in a very small town and the drive on the dark highway from the main city (Victoria, BC) at night was harrowing. 

     

    i first tried better bulbs but there was barely any noticeable difference. then i put in the slightly more powerful bulbs that you have to hack to get them to fit. it was many years ago so i don't remember the details so you'll have to search this forum. there are a few threads about lightbulb hacks.

     

    i was thinking about putting in HID or LED bulbs but didn't want to go through the installation hassle and possibility of poor performance so i just got rid of the car.

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

    too much oil can blow seals over time, and cause excess oil vapors to end up in the combustion chamber for sure.

     

    should be able to pump out the excess using the dipstick tube as an entryway.  you do have to wait 15 minutes after engine shutoff to check oil level.

     

    thanks for the info MacT. i tried putting a quite narrow polyethylene tube down the dipstick tube but it wouldn't go. do you happen to know exactly how narrow of a tube i have to use?

  13. 2020 Edge ST (2.7 EcoBoost, just under 10,000 km)

    i noticed a good amount of smoke from the exhaust when i stomp on the go pedal. it doesn't happen at idle or giving it gas in park/neutral.

    I connect my OBD reader and it gave no codes. I then thought I would check for excessive oil consumption but found the level to be higher than i would expect on the dipstick. the oil has about 4,000 km on it and is still quite clean so it's hard for me to tell exactly what the level is. I can tell that it's above the small hole that's above the cross-hatch pattern on the dipstick.

    I think too much oil can cause smoke and can also damage the engine, no? doesn't it score the cylinders or something like that? i'm wondering if i have done any damage already. it only smokes under heavy throttle so would the damage only occur then?

    What should i do? the dealer that did the last service is closed now, as in not there anymore. the same owner has two other dealers so i can go there but this is going to be a hassle since surely they will say that i must have added the oil myself.

    is there any way to remove just a bit of oil? or do i need to do another oil change?

    i'd be grateful for any suggestions you have and information regarding the severity of this problem.

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