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ben senise

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Posts posted by ben senise

  1. 2 hours ago, lander12 said:

    Hello to the group.  I have a 2010 Edge SEL with All Wheel drive. Last winter, there were times that I questioned whether all wheels were being powered- due to poor handling and performance in relatively small amounts of snow and ice. With summer time driving, of course- I do not notice this feeling any more. Question- is there a simple way to determine if power is going to the rear wheels? Can I lift the front and rear of the car off the ground and manually turn each wheel to determine if the other wheels are turning? What should I expect to find if everything is working? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

     

    what tires do you have? how worn are they?

     

    i had an '09 Edge Limited with AWD and the factory all season tires. i don't remember what brand they were but they were absolute garbage in the snow. we had a bit of snow shortly after i got the car and i wanted to see how it fared. it didn't. no traction at all either accelerating or braking. it was dangerous.

    in comparison, i had michelin x-ice on my next edge and they were amazing. loads of grip (relatively speaking for snow.)

    i remember years ago when i had an X5 and guys on a forum were complaining about how bad their car was because it couldn't get up their steep driveway. they had high performance low profile summer tires on, duh!!

    all season tires aren't very good in the snow and AWD or 4WD is no substitute for where the rubber meets the road.

    • Like 3
  2. On 11/8/2011 at 12:28 AM, jhenkin said:

    The owner guide says: "The keypad can be operated with the factory set 5-digit entry code; this code is located on the owner’s wallet card in the glove box and is available from your authorized dealer." Well, I don't have this wallet card being referred to. Is there any way to retrieve this 5-digit entry code???

     

    in my 2020 Edge, there are instructions for showing the code on the display. i think there may be similar instructions in your owner's guide as well. i seem to recall similar instructions on my '09 and '16. you don't mention your model year.

     

  3. i have a 2020 ST that is only a few months old. from time to time, the left turn signal will flash quickly. a return to off and on again has always returned it to normal. yesterday it occurred at a place where i could stop  and get out of the car to see which light it was. turns out to be the front left turn signal.

    in the "old days" this would indicate a burnt out bulb but since all signal bulbs are LED in this car (front amber on headlight assembly, mirror, and rear) and the problem always corrects itself by turning the signal off and back on again, i'm wondering what the failure could be so i know where to start looking.

    would a loose connection cause these symptoms? i'm thinking not since it always corrects itself by turning the sign off and on again. i'm thinking that a loose connection would remain in failure mode.

    could it be the headlight assembly? electronics somewhere?

    obviously the car is under warranty so i can just tell them about it when i go in for the first service. i'll have to record the signals when they fail because you know what happens; they won't be able to duplicate the problem.

    if anyone has any ideas, i'd like to hear them. thanks.

  4. thought i'd post this just for the record.

     

    i was trying different things with the + and - buttons and found that it behaves much differently than i had anticipated. perhaps it will also clear up any potential misunderstanding about how to do what people suggested.

     

    a press that is very slightly longer than a quick tap raises the speed to the next even 10 kph. i don't mean a long press as in seconds, just a tap that you hold on to for maybe half-a-second? hope this makes sense.

     

    so if i'm doing 52, the longer tap takes it to 60. if i'm doing 57 it does the same thing; bumps it to 60. then if you hold on, it will further raise the speed by 10 kph so 70, 80, 90, etc.

     

    I assumed that the press and hold would raise the speed in 1 kph increments and that it would be difficult to lift off the button at exactly 60 for example. then i'd have to look at the speed setting and further adjust. it seemed like an awkward way to do it.

     

    anyway, this is good enough for me so i consider the case to be closed ?

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, todd92 said:

    You must have missed the part about press and hold.

     

    and you must have  missed the third post in this thread.

     

    pressing and holding still requires the driver to take their eyes off of the road and look at something else which is in my opinion an inferior solution and a distraction that i prefer to avoid.

     

    in any case, the point of this thread was to inquire as to whether or not it is possible to change the increments for each press of the + and - buttons, not to debate the merits or faults of other methods.

  6. 9 hours ago, omar302 said:

    I remember reading the same question but there wasn't a solution. My 2011 used to do 2 Km/h increments while my 2016 does 5 Km/h increments. I actually would prefer 1 Km/h increments so I'd get the exact set speed I want. The 2016 actual does the increments in 2 stages, the push rounds the set speed to next 5 Km/h and then next push(s) would add 5 Km/h.

     

    You can press and hold the +/- buttons to increase/decrease the speed more than the push increments.

     

    let's keep this simple; let's just trade cars. ?

     

    last night after i posted this i was wondering if i could push and hold. i'll check that out. only problem is that you have to take your eyes off the road to do it.

     

    thanks omar302.

    • Haha 1
  7. in my '09 and '16 edges, the cruise control + and - changed the speed by 2 KPH. Now my new '20 changes the speed by 1 KPH so to speed up or slow down 10 KPH i have to press the buttons on the steering wheel 10 times whereas before it was only 5. for the metrically challenged among us, that means that to change approx 6 MPH, it takes 10 clicks. a little bit ridiculous in my opinion.

     

    anyone know if it's possible to modify this increment? i have forescan and the adapter thingy.

     

    thanks

  8. 6 hours ago, The Breeze said:

    Expose the lock cylinder?  The 2013 does not have a cover if that's what you mean.  The opening to the cylinder is visable w/out removing anything.  If you're suggesting that I should remove the trim around it, will that give me access to something that would help?

     

    i didn't know you had a 2013. not mentioned in the OP.

    no, not suggesting you remove anything.

  9. 3 hours ago, niceonept said:

     

    There weren't really any power options though. If you wanted automatic transmission the 210 HP engine was the only option. Likewise 180 HP was the only option for manual transmission. 

     

    wow, thanks for all that info. so strange to see three pedals and a stick in an edge and the instrument cluster looks interesting.

  10. 17 hours ago, DaMiFo said:

     

    The European Sport is not the same as the North American Sport. In Europe, the Sport was rebadged as the ST-Line (and both have/had 2.0 TDCI engines - and while there were two power options for the engine, there was no real engine upgrade like in NA).

     

    so what was the difference between the previous Sport model and the lower models?

  11. i was thinking about this a bit more and for me, what it comes down to is that i like the wolf in sheep's clothing.

    when i see people put an "S" on a non-S porsche, or a V12 on a 6 cylinder mercedes or a M5 badge on a 525i, it makes me laugh. i'd love someone to see my de-badged ST and think how i must be embarrassed to have an SE to leave the badge. fine with me.

    i'm definitely not condemning anyone who leaves things as they came, even with the dealer stickers and/or license plate frames. i just prefer my cars without.

  12. 12 hours ago, niceonept said:

    Ford partially de-badged my car in the factory!

    The ST-Line here in UK has no badge, whereas the model it replaced had "Sport" prominently on the tailgate.   

     

    the sport is not the same as the "ST Line," at least in N America. The Sport became the ST, both of which were more powerful. The ST Line is strictly cosmetic (again, at least here in NA).

     

    regarding de-badging, why does it have to be because of embarassment? i debaged all cars i've ever owned. why do i need to tell anyone what trim i have or what engine i have? i subscribe to the "less is more" school of thought. i dislike clutter. de-badging reduces that clutter. i don't like stickers. i don't buy clothes with logos either.

     

    i've never had a problem selling a de-badged car. and there's no reason to think that it would be any indication of problems with the car. so cars with all these mods people talk about are okay as long as the car still says edge titanium on it?

     

    it's strictly a matter of taste and my taste is plain and boring. live and let live.

  13. 8 hours ago, HEC said:

    Like the subject says my question is.... Why is my defrost vents blowing out cold air when my a/c is on and no air coming out from the other vents (front vents) like it usually should did? 

    In some blogs, they say I need to replace a door actuator that is located under the gloves box, and in others, they say that is another door actuator located behind the dash in the driver panel.

    Anyone can help me?

    Thank you

     

    just to be sure but does this happen after the engine has warmed up?

    have you tried the "Max" button and does the same thing happen?

  14. i just got a pretty good deal on a new 2020 ST in february. i debated whether or not it was worth it to get the 2021 and sync 4 on the big screen. one thing about the big screen though is that all the physical buttons for the HVAC have been replaced with virtual ones on a screen. no tactile feedback. i didn't feel that it was worth it for the deal i was getting.

    the transmission is slightly different on the 2021. i understand that they just took the 2020 8 speed transmission and electronically removed the 2nd gear. not sure if the physical gears are in there or not. this is not an issue as now that i have the 8 speed, i see that difference in the ratios between 2nd and 3rd are so miniscule that it's comical.

    other than that, not much difference so if you're getting a good deal, i'd probably go for the 2020. just my 2¢.

  15. are you using the car's built-in navigation or a phone that is attached with a cable (i.e. android auto or car play)?

     

    i've had some bizarre situations with the phone connected using google maps. the car icon on the sync screen would jump all over town and recalculate continuously. it appears to only happen when i pull out of an underground parking where the car has been overnight. it's inconsistent though.

     

    from what i've read and my understanding of it, android auto or apple car play on sync use the gps antenna on the car as well as the phone.

     

    what i would need to do next time is disconnect my phone from the edge to see if the map on the phone screen is correct. 

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