DAYLIGHT Brightlight EDGE-2 DRL Wiring question.

[jmacd27]

My set I just installed operate the same way with no more switchback. This is much better IMO as the amber is much easier to see as they are not overpowered by the white, and it doesn't look so "busy" as my Edge DRL original set was. I've noticed most OEM setups operate this way.

 

I have them wired the same as my first set, but the new revised DRL don't seem to have the courtesy functions any longer.

 

The first YouTube video posted a few posts up show nicely how the ambers now work.

Edited April 9, 2014 by jmacd27

[TheWizard]

That's exactly what I was looking for but Dan told me it couldn't be done! Oh well, I'm certainly not going to spend that money all over again just for that feature.

[ls973800]

I just want to mention that the set I just installed a couple of weeks ago also does not "switchback" between the amber and white when using the turn signals. I wired mine per the included pamphlet to allow the lights to act as full time DRL's.

 

Wizard had previously answered my question about the courtesy light function not working now unless I re-wire the lights to come on only when I have the parking lights or headlights on. I wanted the function of having the DRL's without having to do anything else (turning on a light switch) so I am pleased with the way these work and look.

 

Would I like the courtesy light function to work like it used to? Yes. Is it a big deal for me? No.

 

I agree that just having the amber lights blink without going to the white in between blinks looks good.

[TheWizard]

I wonder if we can get Dan in here to describe the different versions and any differences in their function. I have had two different sets - the originals from the pre-order before the first shipment arrived and a replacement set that were more heavily waterproofed because we had a problem with water intrusion. Both had the white/amber switchback turn signal function so it sounds like there is a third version that has amber only flashing.

 

I'm going to PM him and see if he can join us in here.

[kc300c]

Thanks for the PM Wiz. I have not had much time to keep an eye on the forum lately, so your heads up is very helpful. I'm currently traveling and not able to post a detailed reply right now, but I will by tomorrow. Great discussion by the way. Lot's of good information and very helpful feedback on possible improvements to instructions and wiring methods to provide additional function variations. Check back tomorrow for my reply.

 

Edit: May 8, 2014:

We now offer a Courtesy Light adapter wire for the EDGE-2 DRLs. This allows our DRL kits to perform the same way as the stock accent lights did. Click on the picture of our webpage below to go right to it. Instructions are just below that.

 

 

We recommend only using our harness. Damage to the kit due to improper wiring will void the warranty.

 

Edited May 8, 2014 by kc300c

[RustyEdge]

Wizard had previously answered my question about the courtesy light function not working now unless I re-wire the lights to come on only when I have the parking lights or headlights on. I wanted the function of having the DRL's without having to do anything else (turning on a light switch) so I am pleased with the way these work and look.

 

Would I like the courtesy light function to work like it used to? Yes. Is it a big deal for me? No.

 

 

I actually just received a replacement set as well due to water seepage. I do still want them to still function with the courtesy feature and was planning on still installing the white wire from the controller to the power lead from the oem vertical lights.

 

This is how my current DRL's are conneted and I still maintain the courtesy function. The only thing that I see will need to be added to the new set is I will have to extend the white wire coming out of the controller to be able to reach down into the bumper where the oem vertical light wires are. I don't see why they wouldn't function the same way (with the courtesy function) with that simple wiring change. The only downside is that the white DRL's will only be @ 70% when the parking lights are on instead of 100% as intended. It's worth it for me to retain the courtesy function. Plus I never really have only the parking lights on anyway, unless I wanted to also show off the Daytime LED tail lights more

 

-Russ

[TheWizard]

It's really not necessary to extend the white wire down to the original light pipe wires if it's inconvenient. The parking light power wire (yellow/blue) is on the same circuit so connecting the white wire behind the headlights there will give you the same function as connecting to the original light pipe wires.

[RustyEdge]

Well that makes things a little easier! Thanks Wizard!

[kc300c]

Thanks again for the excellent discussion about our EDGE-2 LED DRL kit.

We recently made several improvements to the electronic controller, upgraded amber LEDs and DRL housing of our original EDGE-2 DRL kit (EDGE-2v1). The new EDGE-2v2 kit is very similar to the original in function and installation.

 

Here are my responses to some of your questions:

 

My instructions got damaged during the install and Dan sent me a PDF of the instructions

(We are revising the instructions and will be posting a downloadable copy of the install instructions to this post when they are finished)

A couple of things I noticed during the install:

-The YouTube video of the install is of V1 and not this version as it is a little different.

(we are working on a new install video, but the current video still gives a very good idea of what is involved)

-The actual lights are labeled LH and RH but they actually go in the opposite side

(The company who made the plastic injection molding tools for us accidentally mislabeled the dies, but as was mentioned, there is only one way to put each light in)

-There is no example or suggestion on what to do with the "brain" box. In the video of the V1 version, it shows it to use a firewall screw/clip, but I don't think that is am option with this box.

(We have added this to the instructions. Thanks for bringing this to our attention)

In addition to the yellow wire for the passenger side needing to be about 1 foot longer, I think the other yellow wire and white wire could use about 1 more foot also. I was able to strip the electrical tape off the wire harness that I had to tap into, and therefore was able to make the connection several inches back allowing just enough slack to mount the box where I wanted it.

(We will be increasing the length of all of the wires on the next manufacturing run to allow for more controller mounting position options. It is very simple to add a piece of 18-20 gauge wire to increase the length).

I mounted the box on top of the fuse cover, allowing a bit of slack in the wires so the cover could still be opened with no problem.

(This is where I have mounted mine. It doesn't interfere with anything and has plenty of clearance between it and the closed hood.)

If you want the EDGE-2 DRL's to work as the factory DRL's did you'll need to hook it up this way: (this will allow your DRL's to be on ONLY if parking and/or headlights are on)

1) Long yellow wire from control box connects to passenger side YELLOW/PURPLE parking light wire

2) Shorter yellow wire from control box connects to drivers side BLUE/GREEN parking light wire

3) Red wire from control box connects to battery +, Black to battery -

3) White wire from control box can do 1 or 2 things.... a) keep unhooked and DRL white lights will always be 100% brightness.. or what ever you splice it to it'll be 70% brightness when that function is on. ie. hook it to high beam, they'll dim on high beam, hook to low beam like the kit suggests, the lights will dim when low beam is on, hook to parking lights, they'll be 70% when parking lights are on, etc..

4) Red Wire with FUSE from control box hooks to the middle parking light wire on the drivers side.

Hooking the fuse red wire to the middle of the 3 parking light wires will make the DRL's turn on if your parking lights or headlights are on.. Basically this fuse wire is the main power source wire. So whatever function you hook this wire too, the lights will turn on.

(This is exactly right. Automatic on/off DRL function will no longer work. DRLs will now have to be manually switched on with the headlight switch and the parking lights will be on when the DRLs are on. The DRL turn signals will not function if the parking lights / DRLs are not on)

That's really interesting. Do your Edge2 lights work as white DRLs (on all the time when the ignition is on)? I had asked about the possibility of having the white DRL turn off on the one side while the turn signals were on so that it would only flash amber instead of alternating amber/white but I was told it couldn't be done.

(At the time we first talked about this turn signal lighting sequence, the EDGE-2v2 was not being developed. Many customers asked for this turn signal sequence, so since we were already redesigning the electronic controls, we made the change)

EDIT: I have seen the OEM pipe lights referred to as DRLs and as fog lights. They are neither. They are hardly as bright as side marker lamps (about 3 candlepower) and are nothing more than decoration.

(Ford designed the OEM light pipe lamps to be an accent light to be used at night only and not to function as a DRL. This is the reason these accent lights are switched on and off with the parking / headlights)

I have had two different sets - the originals from the pre-order before the first shipment arrived and a replacement set that were more heavily waterproofed because we had a problem with water intrusion. Both had the white/amber switchback turn signal function so it sounds like there is a third version that has amber only flashing.

(We did have some water issues with the first EDGE-2v1 version. We took steps to eliminate them on the original EDGE-2v1s. The light housing in the EDGE-2v1 had a tendency to flex. This would sometimes cause the seal between the hard clear lens and the flexible housing to allow moisture to enter. The new EDGE-2v2s now uses a more rigid black plastic housing that will not flex keeping allowing a very stable long lasting seal with the lens.)

 

Hope this makes things a bit clearer. Your comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. As I mentioned earlier, I don't have a lot of time to check the forum, so if you have any questions you would like to ask me, please shoot me an email at info@daytimebrightlites.com. You are welcome to post the answers I give you here on the thread.

Many thanks,

Dan Smith

www.DAYTIMEBrightLites.com

wwwDriveBright.com

Edited April 13, 2014 by kc300c

[The Whedge]

I live in Canada where the Edge has either headlights or the parking lights on for DRL at all times. If it's the parking lights, would that not allow fully automatic functioning of the new DRL's including courtesy lights?

[TheWizard]

I can't tell you whether the courtesy lights would work because I am not familiar with exactly what was changed to make the turn signals flash amber only and cause the courtesy function to not work anymore.

 

But I can tell you that Canadian vehicles that have had the factory DRLs switched from the headlights to the amber lights will lose the use of the white LEDs of the Edge2 as DRLs. When the factory lamps are used for DRL, they use the bright filament (the turn signal filament) of the dual-filament bulbs - not the dimmer parking light filament. So when you connect the Edge2 lights to the turn signal wires, the amber LEDs will be on whenever the bright filament of the factory lights is on - which is all the time when they are set as the factory DRLs. The Edge2 circuitry is designed to prevent both the amber and white LEDs being on at the same time so in that configuration the white LEDs would never be on.

Edited April 16, 2014 by TheWizard

[normcloutier]

I have this exact same set-up. If you have your front amber turn signals as DRL on your Edge, you need to connect the turn signal trigger for the DBL EDGE2 to the rear turn signal wires. These are accessed in the passenger compartment under the left drivers side footwell. You would need to extend the two turn triggers from the EDGE2 through the firewall into the footwell area. Dan has instructions on how to do this.

 

You then connect the dimming trigger to the amber side marker LED's. These LED's follow the same activation as the original light pipes.

 

Daytime full brightness works on the EDGE2 as described. The module is always powered from the direct battery connection and the full brightness trigger comes from the fuse link.

[The Whedge]

Unless you use the rear signal for input, correct?

[normcloutier]

Rear signal for input to what? The rear signals trigger the amber switchback in the EDGE2. These are connected together in the footwell.

[TheWizard]

Yes, the Edge2 lamps will not work properly with factory amber DRLs unless you connect them to the rear turn signal wiring (behind the left kick panel). I was referring to when they are wired as the included directions are written.

[The Whedge]

Great, thanks for clarifying that, Wizard. So if the signal trigger wire is connected to the rear signal wire and the DRL dimmer trigger is connected to the middle front signal wire (ie the dimmer parking light wire) does that mean that the white part of Dan's DRL will work the same as the OEM courtesy light but also act as a bright DRL when all the lights are switched off?

[TheWizard]

Yes, it would work that way on all earlier versions of the Edge2 lights because applying power to the white (70% trigger) wire made the white LEDs turn on regardless of whether the main (ignition switched) power was on. I don't know what changes were made to the circuitry in the latest version so I'm not sure whether any of the LEDs will work without the main power supply. It's easy enough to test if you haven't installed them yet - hold the black (ground) wire to the battery negative terminal and touch the white (70% trigger) wire to the battery positive terminal. If the white LEDs turn on then you'll know that your courtesy function will work when installed and connected to the middle wire in the turn signal socket.

[The Whedge]

Great suggestion. Thanks. First I have to buy a set. Just wanted to make sure I'd be able to have them function as I want them too.

[FarmerDave]

This seems to have become the thread for DaytimeBrightLites Edge2 DRL install feedback so I'll enter my observations.

 

I spent several weeks going over this install in my mind hoping for a revelation as to a better place to mount the control box because I really didnt want to use the fuse box lid. I went into this thinking it would be mounted near the core support above the drivers side headlight on a bracket screwed to the air filter box mount as per the one install video. When I sat the box there and laid all the wires out to assess length, I could see the battery wires would never reach. Then, I ran across another video showing the control box mounted to the domed top of the strut tower. This was described in the video as being a nice flat place out of the way. Well, on my Edge it was surely out of the way, but a nut on the end of the strut protruded thru the center hole making it far from a flat surface.

 

Reports were coming in here on this thread that the passenger side yellow wire is too short, so with that in mind I started eyeballing the open area directly behind the battery under the wiper well. I went as far as to make a bracket that would mount onto the battery tray bolt located low between the fuse box and the battery. The bracket was perfect. It twisted up, angled back to the left and held the control box well hidden right where I wanted it. Problem was, that move inadvertently shortened the reach of the bundled wire that has to reach all the way down to plug into the drivers side DRL lens assembly. At that point, I probably could have just reversed the left and right bundled wires (keeping the respective yellow wires with each) and made it work, but would still have had to add on yellow wire at one end or the other and dimmer wire to boot.

 

Anyway, reluctantly ended up mounting to fuse box lid with #8-32 button heads. With each of the four mounting screws I put 3 flat washers between the lid and the mounting ear on the control box as a spacer so that the four screws could be snugged down and would hold the unit by a clamping force. If you dont do this, it will have a tendency to bow the lid. My conclusion and recommendation: fuse box lid - not ideal, but it works. Use it. You will only have one wire to extend - the passenger side yellow trigger wire. I found a donor 14" or so long piece of yellow wire same gauge on an old fried out PC power supply laying in my garage.

 

My biggest shock came when trying to use the turn signal extender harness that we all discussed using on the hyperflash thread. This option was, in my mind, ideal for the purpose of having a place other than the factory wiring to tap into, both for this install and to mount a load resistor to cure hyperflash, if needed. I guess I had assumed (and you know what they say about that) that any 3157 bulb would have a corresponding socket and a standard retainer tab configuration. To my dismay, this is not the case. The OEM Edge tab layout uses 3 tabs and the bulb extension harness uses two wide opposing tabs. I studied this a bit to determine if tab trimming was possible and to me it didnt appear to be. Also, the right angle wire exit at the base of the socket could interfere with the headlight housing if the tabs werent just right. I went back and checked ebay again thinking there might be a different extender harness that would work, but every picture I saw showed the same two-tab arrangement. Guys, listen up! If you are thinking about using the harness, check your tabs before you order. The harness idea would work if you were to go to the boneyard and scab an OEM turn signal bulb base and then do surgery to replace the base on the extension harness. But in an Edge the extenders won't work as China is currently supplying them to ebay sellers.

 

At this point I was so close to seeing a finished product I went ahead and tapped into my factory wiring - something I wanted to avoid. I used PosiTaps for this and am pleased with how they work. FYI - the pink and gray PosiTap fits the OEM wiring the best. PosiLock part # EX-130RR. It's the smallest tap that will fit the wire and hopefully the small penetrator barb will do the least damage to the insulation.

 

These units put out a light that behaves kinda weird. I watched my wife come down our road yesterday afternoon. The Edge2s glowed intensely even in the bright afternoon sunlight. Very eye-catching! Later on, in the dark of night, those same drls barely lit up my big white garage door from 10 ft. away. Not what I expected and NOT something you could ever drive with at night as a primary light source. Guess thats why they're DRLs and not NRLs.

 

I'll sum up by addressing one recurring theme in this thread. Many have mentioned "losing" the courtesy light function. For those of us who never had the pipelight, we arent really losing anything. The same parking/marker/tail/interior array still lights upon opening a door, just not the drls, which for us, never did.

 

Oh, almost forgot the best part. Installing this product alone (no resistors) cured my hyperflash issue! Turns work normally now with headlights ON or OFF.

 

Kudos on a great product, Dan! Thanks!

[kc300c]

We now offer a Courtesy Light adapter wire for the EDGE-2 DRLs. This allows our DRL kits to perform the same way as the stock accent lights did. Click on the picture of our webpage below to go right to it. Instructions are just below that.

 

 

We recommend only using our harness. Damage to the kit due to improper wiring will void the warranty.

 

Edited May 9, 2014 by kc300c

[RustyEdge]

Hi Dan, just to be clear will this cause the lights to no longer function as DRL's? or will they still function as DRL's bur maintain the courtesy feature?

 

Thanks,

-Russ

[kc300c]

Hi Rusty, the DRLs will function as fully automatic DRLs as they currently do. (engine on / DRLs on, engine off / DRLs off). (Note: we made a mistake on the original pricing. Should have been $15.50 instead of $19.50. I have 23 adapters in stock and can ship right away.

 

 

Edited May 9, 2014 by kc300c

[RustyEdge]

Hey Dan, is there any difference to using this harness as opposed to running the white trigger wire to the driver side parking light (yellow / blue wire)?

[ksandals]

Hey Dan,

Sent you an email a couple days ago thru your site with regard to ordering tails, drls, led blinkers and break light. Still haven't heard back and just wanted to touch base on here. Quite interested to get a hold of your products and get them installed. Hope we can get in touch. Thanks

[normcloutier]

Hey Dan, is there any difference to using this harness as opposed to running the white trigger wire to the driver side parking light (yellow / blue wire)?

 

The white wire is used to dim the DRL to 70% brightness at nighttime while driving so as not to blind oncoming traffic. The white trigger wire can be connected to a few different sources such as low beam headlight, front parking light or side marker LED. The white wire will only activate the 70% dimmed portion of the DRL when the electronics module is active (ignition on). If the electronics module is not on (vehicle not running) the 70% DRL will not illuminate for courtesy function. That is the purpose of the courtesy harness.