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Erratic switchback behavior


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I installed some switchback leds yesterday off of ebay. They are type 2 switchbacks so they are supposed to blink amber-off-amber-off when the parking lights are on. The drivers side does that most of the time but randomly throws in a white flash. The passenger side works that way occasionally but is mostly amber-white with the right turn signal.

 

I have Dan's DRLs installed but no load resistors. Would resistors help this issue or is this just a set that will not work with the Edge. If they will likely never work I will go with just a standard amber led. If there is a good chance that the resistor would work, can I install the resistor onto the ground wire of the turn signal and the signal trigger of the DRLs since I already have a connector on the signal wire? I really want them to match the DRLs and I love the way it looks when it works properly, I just need it to always work correctly.

 

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Hey PJ, I actually had / have the same issue sporadically with my v-led type 2 switchbacks. Not sure if yours are v-led's as well but I did call them and they say it is a reoccurring issue with he 11+ Edges and some Mustangs. Below is the link to my initial post.

 

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12689-led-switchbacks-hesitating/

 

Basically the controller randomly puts out a different voltage causing the circuitry in the switchbacks to be confused. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every time so your lights will work perfectly 80% of the time and then freak out every now and again. They were supposed to fix the issue when I last spoke to them back in the October / November timeframe and then implement what they were calling a "Ford Fix" for the lights. I was told to look for a note on their website so I've been checking and still haven't seen any note. I'm planning on calling them again to see if the fix had been implemented into their latest production run and will let you know if / when I hear.

 

*Forgot to mention that I do have load resistors but that's because the switchbacks wouldn't work at all before I installed them. Doesn't seem to be affecting you.

 

But you are not alone B)

-Russ

Edited by RustyEdge
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I did look into v-leds and I did see that they have 10+ ford specific connectors but I wasn't prepared to drop $150 for the Tritons, although that may be what I end up doing. It just seems crazy to pay as much for turn signals as I did for morimoto hids. I just got a random set off ebay for like $30, they are not v-leds.

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I think the v-led connector is for the Tritan bulbs and not the switchbacks. They apparently figured out how to eliminate the issue within the bulbs circuitry but had to implement for their production run. I wouldn't spend the 150 on the connector.

 

I do see that your white flash is a little more severe than mine which might be due to the different bulbs. But as Candurin stated, for now I've just accepted it too and it's kinda fun to watch it randomly spaz out when it reflects off the car in front of me!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still running my Type1s to this day. No problems.

 

I don't see where type 1's would be a problem at all. The problem is the the type 2's randomly act like they are type 1's. With the newest version of Dan's drls the type 2's look awesome when they work correctly and, in unison, switch from white light to a blinking amber on one side of the car while the other side stays white. It kind of ruins the effect when the drl is blinking just amber and the turn signal is blinking amber/white.

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Mine are not that pronounced. Just a little flicker (and this only occurs about 30% of the time). It's a little "flash" of white immediately after the ambers light up.

 

Not as inherently FU'ed as yours :)

 

Unfortunately for PJ mine too are not as messed up and act more like Candurin's. Maybe that's the different between the ebay switchback and the v-led ones.

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I have a resistor installed. It would definitely help.

 

Then I guess this would be part 2 to that question.

 

If I already have the drl trigger to the center wire, can I attach the resistor to the drl trigger or do I have to use another tap on the factory wire?

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