Climate Fan repeatedly turns all the way up!

[Yukulu]

On 7/10/2022 at 2:43 PM, Devo33 said:

I had this problem and going with the theory that the air in between the plastic that covers the round pad censors on the FICM, was causing it to read being pushed up or down. I took a heat gun to the pads and kind of melted it back in place. It works great now! Hope this helps everyone out. 

How did you remove the faceplate to get to the control pad? I can't figure it out. 

[Haz]

 

[Driver8rws]

On 7/10/2022 at 2:43 PM, Devo33 said:

I had this problem and going with the theory that the air in between the plastic that covers the round pad censors on the FICM, was causing it to read being pushed up or down. I took a heat gun to the pads and kind of melted it back in place. It works great now! Hope this helps everyone out. 

 

Super curious what EXACTLY you did with the heat gun?   I have MANY of the buttons on that panel "ghost activating/deactivating" almost every 5-10 min...

I took it completely apart as in the videos here and don't physically SEE air gaps/bubbles on the back side?  I did apply heat from a heat gun to the back of the button press areas and smashed down hard. But, not really sure what I was trying to accomplish. Partially put it all back together and getting MUCH LESS ghost button pushing, but it's still happening. 

Any photos of before and after of yours?? 

 

Also, I thought I needed to remove the 4 screws holding the touchscreen BEZEL on from the back side and inadvertently broke the tiny ribbon cable connector off the printed circuit board for the CD player EJECT button...!  Any ideas from anyone where to get another bezel?? 

Gluing the connector back on apparently doesn't make good enough contact...

 

I can't believe ALL the voice commands that are possible for controlling the CD player, but NO COMMAND FOR EJECT!!! 

 

Any thoughts appreciated...

 

Edited October 11, 2022 by Driver8rws
Grammar

[jmacd27]

On 7/10/2022 at 2:43 PM, Devo33 said:

I had this problem and going with the theory that the air in between the plastic that covers the round pad censors on the FICM, was causing it to read being pushed up or down. I took a heat gun to the pads and kind of melted it back in place. It works great now! Hope this helps everyone out. 

I started having this same issue on my 2013 Limited.

 

Can you share what it was you actually did to resolve this?

 

Thanks.

[Driver8rws]

FOLLOW UP...

 

I ended up finding the entire "control panel" including the vents all the way down to (and including) the Sony radio/climate panel for only $50 from Tapitio Auto & Truck Recycling in San Diego!!  They were great, shipped it fast, I plugged it in and EVERYTHING works great again.  In my searches I found many other junkyards online selling these for $100-200. People on eBay wanted insane prices for them.

There is a website, www.hollanderparts.com  I used, that helps you find parts from junkyards all over the country. 

 

The part number for mine was DT4T 18A802 CB, but there is also one that ends in "CD" that looks the same that would probably work. The part number is on a white sticker on the back of the panel.

 

By the way, if you have the "ghosting buttons" problem and just want it to stop, all you have to do is remove the panel as shown in the videos in this thread, take the black protective cover off the back and unplug the largest ribbon cable at the very bottom of the climate panel.  The giant radio knob/dial will still work.  It will only disable the climate buttons and the source and sound buttons. All of those functions can be controlled from the touch screen very easily.  

I only went with the junkyard panel replacement route cause I had broken off the cd eject button connector and there is no touch screen button or voice command for that function.

 

Edited October 23, 2022 by Driver8rws
More info

[fuegosat]

I have a 2012 Ford Edge Limited that had the same problem with the mystical, surging CC system.  And sometimes the 4-way flashers came on randomly too.  All else worked fine.   When the AC climbed to max (this all happened during the summer) I could wait 5-10 sec and use the minus (-) button on the dash to turn down the AC but often it would jump back up again.  Eventually, the + or - on the dash wasn't reliable.  However, the + or - worked on the LCD panel OR via the controls on the steering column.  I removed the Front Control Interface Module (FCIM) to try to repair it but nothing changed.    Ford wanted $140 to diagnose my problem, $758 for a FCIM and $280 to install and program it.  Based on the help I found on this blog and other places, I decided to find a used FCIM.  My 2012 Edge FCIM has engineering no. CT4T-18A802-CG.  I located a FCIM with engineering no. BT4T-18A802-CL in a 2011 Limited Ford Edge.  Before I bought it ($31.00) I called United Radio in NY State.  They seem to be the sole place to get these repaired.  They are great and helpful.  I talked to the technician who does the actual repairs on all the FCIMs.  He explained that he would rebuild mine for $300.  You ship it to him and return shipping is free.  But he also told me that any Limited FCIM that starts with a B is a 2011 and starting with a C is a 2012.  And the 2nd last character had to be a C to indicate that it supports heated seats (heated seats are stock on the Limited 2011, 2012, and 2013, and maybe more). Today I visited the boneyard that had the 2011 Limited Edge.  I bought the part, installed it in 30 min (while in the parking lot), and drove away a happy buyer.  It worked 100% and I get to keep my old FCIM.  Now I have a spare that I can send to United Radio in case the used one fails.  BTW, a new or rebuilt FCIM has to be programmed.  But one that comes from a similar used Edge is ready to go because it's programmed at the factory.

[Sithorn]

I had the exact same issue on my 2012 Ford Edge Limited. Here's what I did, I bought a used FCIM from a 2013 Ford Edge SEL model with the hardware buttons off on Ebay.

 

It's an exact direct fit and works flawlessly.