Ed D Posted May 7, 2019 Report Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) 2012 Ford Edge SEL - had booster replaced after I heard a weird leaksound. Had it done under a warranty. Previously had a soft pedal. They had it apart and didnt call me about doing a Master cylinder for soft pedal. So I put on in myself - not that hard. I bleed and still get soft pedal - I have been driving like this for a couple of months. Tried more bleeding Tried the gravel parking lot slam on brakes to get ABS activated. Tried a bleed system to push fluid up. I had a shop do a flush and bleed - no different. I just put in another master - I did bench bleed - very good - put in car - now its even worse. I see posts and youtubers who changed out ABS module. I got Extended warranty on brake booster . 13N02 I also got an Advanced trac light at the same time - especially if I have been sitting in drive way with car on. I think these may be related. coincidence ? I have a used ABS coming. any thoughts. I have seen vidoes on an auto bleed system as well. Edited May 7, 2019 by Ed D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trom11 Posted May 8, 2019 Report Share Posted May 8, 2019 I have the same issue with my 2011 MKX. The dealer said it's the "hydraulic control unit" or ABS. The valves inside apparently stick open and allow some fluid to be diverted into the ABS block instead of putting all to the calipers causing the pedal to go to the floor. I decided the $1900 they wanted to fix it was two high and looking at replacing myself. Toughest thing appears to be removing the unit due to tight wrench clearance for mounting bracket. If I can't get it out I'll just take to my regular mechanic. The ABS block with the valves is around $350 online and another ~$350 for the ABS controller. If anyone has seen a video or pictures of disassembly please let me know. Here's the Youtube explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted May 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2019 I saw that video and a couple that did master replace - no fix ( I am on master #2 ) It bench bleeds fine but installed it goes to the floor. I have a used ABS coming on Monday $70 - a new ford complete with discount is $650 plus. That video you have is the most descriptive one on how. I have seen others that do the Grenade that brake treatment - go on dirt road and jam on brakes to get ABS active - sometimes fixes. One guy had success doing it in reverse which makes me think he needed to get the rear abs section active. I had tried the grenade the break going 30mph and stomp on pedal but still the same. Some can get a scanner that activates ABS to bleed HCU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted May 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted May 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted May 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2019 this was the grenade method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted May 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) this is the used one Im getting and has a pic of the bracket - It shouldnt be too bad with master and battery box removed. Ill try to video on Saturday when I pull it out Edited May 9, 2019 by Ed D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradiddle1 Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 YouTube how to get ABS module out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradiddle1 Posted June 9, 2019 Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 I put in used ABS module and had to use my old electronics as it was programmed. I also was getting advance track codes and they are now gone. Soft pedal is now fixed. So I only changed the HCU unit of the ABS. The 6 lines are not difficult to get off but the 3 bolts for bracket are very tough. No straight shot. 13mm with flex joint and wobble extensions.1/4 turns. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted June 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 You will need to do an ABS Bleed - I do find that even Pro mechanics do not know how to do ABS Bleed. I was at a Tire kingdom to do a $120 Brake fluid flush and they couldn't get a good pedal. . The Ford dealer was the only ones that could do it. But I don't trust them. I was sure I was going to end up with all new $900 ABS unit + Master + programming new ABS + ABS Bleed = ?? $1500. I had soft pedal and random traction control codes. after used HCU no more codes I did put in (2) masters and I think I did not need any masters in hind sight. The master were only 75 bucks. I got a used ABS unit with brain/HCU combo $70. I installed all - the 3 bolts on bracket - very difficult to get at. the (6) brakes lines are easy - the master cylinder is easy. I got a ABS code after install that I did not have before. (the brain needs reprogramming). So I pulled out and put my brain on used HCU unit and bled up top and then at each wheel. Had decent brake but soft. . I bought a Foxwell N630 Lite OBD2 scanner and ABS after watching a video on YouTube that had auto bleed procedure. Got it next day from Amazon $139. I pulled up ABS put did NOT have auto bleed like the video. I went to my 2003 Ford E350 van and that did have Auto Bleed procedure when I hooked into OBD2. I went back to my EDGE into ABS settings of Foxwell and it had separate Tests. One was to run ABS hydraulic pump - I did that and pump came on pedal was better after. I will try the same with bleed tonight. Air gets trapped in the ABS. I think my HCU had a hung up valve in - This Foxwell has individual test for all ABS functions so I may have been able to sake the valve loose before I did nay of this work - who knows. I also tried on my wife's Honda CRV and it had different ABS stuff - so its not universal ABS scanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed D Posted June 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2019 (edited) Edited June 21, 2019 by Ed D change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PepperoniStick Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 Hello all, I am in the same boat as you were in. I'm responding just in case somebody finds this forum like I did. What happens is my breaks will work but the pedal goes soft. In the snow I can make the ABS engage and then it usually started working again. I dont really want to spend the money to replace it at a shop, and I don't really want to fix it myself. So I got forscan software and compatible reader. It does have the abs autobleed procedure for me. All I do is run that and it fires the valves and then everything works again for about 3-6 months. I assume a valve is just getting stuck. But just wanted to share that's my work around and maybe this summer I'll deal with it more permanently or if it stops working for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradiddle1 Posted January 23 Report Share Posted January 23 Where did you get the forscan software and reader. The ABS scanner I got does not have that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTW Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 The problem is with the HCU, not the master cylinder. I found a company on Ebay that rebuilds the HCU. They will ship you a rebuilt unit with all the problems repaired and you send your bad one back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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