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PLEASE HELP!! - installing some aftermarket subwoofers and an amp


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Hello everyone! I’m in the process of installing some aftermarket subwoofers and an amp but I’m keeping the factory radio for the Bluetooth. Has anyone on here ever installed a line output converter (LOC) in their edge?! If so, where did you install it? And what speakers did you splice into? I’ve got mine spliced into the rear door speakers behind the factory radio but it’s definitely not hitting right and I can hear it’s not even hitting on the right frequency! I’ve got TONS of deep hard bass but when it comes to the lower bass it’s like the subs won’t even pick it up! Someone please help me!!

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  • 1004ron changed the title to PLEASE HELP!! - installing some aftermarket subwoofers and an amp
  • 2 weeks later...

I just got done with this install. here is the post - 

I extended the wires and tapped into the factory subwoofer wires. This will ensure the right frequencies are used. I have the LOC sitting next to the amp in the back. I have a problem though....every time I start the car, the subs pulse a few times...I have yet to solve the issue. I know its LOC/audio feed related. 

 

 

Edited by itsnotdustin
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Thank you very much!! I ended up ordering the PAC-LP7-2 line out converter and instead of using both rear speakers like I did on the junk Walmart one I had I just tapped into 1 rear speaker and it sounded 10x’s better!! But even with the higher quality LOC for some reason my subs (2 12” power acoustik gothic and a 2500 watt power acoustik amp. Soon being replaced with a planet Audio torque 5000.1 monoblock amp as soon as it gets here) still wouldn’t hit on lower frequencies like what’s in most rock, country and some rap… so it’s left me limited to what I can listen to if I wanna slam. So I decided to go with a 7” planet audio in dash DVD/CD player and got it hooked up yesterday (currently without the adapter to continue running the factory amp and steering wheel controls. But that’ll change soon) and the stereo sounds so much more clear, clean and crisp now!! Re adjusted my amp to compensate for the better quality head unit but I’m STILL NOT hitting the low frequencies?!?! Sub box needs changed maybe?! I’ve currently got a “onyx” (I think) sealed box I’ve NEVER been a fan of ported boxes cause when I had a system they was always in a trunk and a sealed box sounded better but from what I’m being told by several car stereo gurus, a ported and tuned box in a SUV will not only hit harder but it’ll sound better and allow your subs and amp to not have to work so hard… any advice on this?

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On 9/30/2021 at 9:48 AM, itsnotdustin said:

I just got done with this install. here is the post - 

I extended the wires and tapped into the factory subwoofer wires. This will ensure the right frequencies are used. I have the LOC sitting next to the amp in the back. I have a problem though....every time I start the car, the subs pulse a few times...I have yet to solve the issue. I know its LOC/audio feed related. 

 

 


 

one last question. If any of y’all have a aftermarket amplifier hooked up in your ford edge, can you PLEASE submit a photo of the best location y’all found for your amp ground cable!! The only spot I found was the back bolt of the rear seat right under the flap that fold down with the seats… there’s no room now to move, set up and make look nice my amp location.

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44 minutes ago, Jeffandshi247 said:


 

one last question. If any of y’all have a aftermarket amplifier hooked up in your ford edge, can you PLEASE submit a photo of the best location y’all found for your amp ground cable!! The only spot I found was the back bolt of the rear seat right under the flap that fold down with the seats… there’s no room now to move, set up and make look nice my amp location.

 

That location is also in my install post. The rear panel opposite the factory subwoofer (left panel if you're facing the rear of the vehicle) has multiple ground locations. You'll need to sand paint off the contact area around the hole and use a small nut and bolt to fasten it in place. 

 

To get that panel off, you'll need to remove the bottom middle scuff plate (2 tree fasteners need to be removed then it can be popped off). After that plate is removed, youll have to pop the bottom section first near the scuff plate, then pull the panel inward to pop the other fasteners. You will need to slide the rubber weather stripping off the panel to get a grip. The fasteners holding the panels in do not like to be pushed in and out multiple times.....I've had to bend those back into shape pretty much every time i remove the panel.

 

behind my panel were 2 wires grounded and 1 wire just hanging there. Let me know if you have the same. I'm curious what the hanging wire is to.

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