Started Edge and CEL shows 4 codes P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021

[CrossBnes3129]

2010 Ford Edge Started Vehicle and it ran poor. CEL shows 4 codes P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021

I hope its not timing. i changed the timing chain, sprockets, water pump, tensioners,  everything about a year ago. Today I drove to work, finished my day, and when I went to drive off I noticed my motor sounded weird.  As I would accelerate the sound got louder and the car wouldn’t accelerate as normal. Shortly after the CEL showed those 4 codes in the title. I drove it 30 miles home at normal speeds on cruise and it drive fine, unless I was trying to accelerate which once again caused a weird noise and no power.

 

I can’t afford a mechanic bill and changed the water pump twice, first time i changed tensioners, and timing chain. So I can follow instructions well. 

 

A reddit guy who is a mechanic helped me because he said the timing was off but we rotated the chain, i took the valve covers off, and the 2 top marks matched the colored links on the chain and he had me stick something in spark plug 1 and rotate the crank to see if it fires when the timing sprocket marks are at the top and it did. So he believed its till in time but something is telling the computer something is wrong. i cant see the bottom timing mark since the cover is still on.I changed the oil normally and used 5w-20 valvoline. Oil looked normal when I drained. I took the vct solenoids off and hooked them to the battery and they opened up. I checked resistance on them and both were 9.  I took both cam sensors off and they looked normal.

 

 

i did notice when i pulled one of the coil packs it was covered in oil bc the spark plug tube seal mustve came off some.However i dont believe the oil reached the coil pack wiring or spring. In the months leading up to this I had been dealing with rpm drops when at a stop, however driving it performed normally. it would drop maybe 300 rpms or the rpms would fluctuate at idle esp with the ac on or sometimes the engine would stall when I put the edge in reverse to back up. Wouldn't stall always happened maybe 3 times in 4 months. I tried changing a bunch of things and it never helped. So i’m not sure that is related.

A few months ago I noticed oil had been in one of the big wiring harness plugs on the front valve cover. I cleaned with electronic cleaner spray and been running it for months. So maybe the wiring is fried and causing the sensors to freak out?

 

2010 Ford Edge SE 150,000 miles Auto V6

Edited April 24, 2023 by CrossBnes3129

[1004ron]

What's the oil change history - oil change interval, oil used and oil filter?

 

Have you checked the Variable Valve Timing oil control valves?

 

HOW TO FIX CODE P0015, CODE P0016, CODE P0017 ANY CAR, ENGINE LIGHT ON - YouTube

[CrossBnes3129]

I changed the oil normally and used 5w-20 valvoline. Oil looked normal when I drained. I took the vct solenoids off and hooked them to the battery and they opened up. I checked resistance on them and both were 9.

 

i did notice when i pulled one of the coil packs it was covered in oil bc the spark plug tube seal mustve came off some.However i dont believe the oil reached the coil pack wiring or spring. In the months leading up to this I had been dealing with rpm drops when at a stop, however driving it performed normally. it would drop maybe 300 rpms or the rpms would fluctuate at idle esp with the ac on or sometimes the engine would stall when I put the edge in reverse to back up. Wouldn't stall always happened maybe 3 times in 4 months. I tried changing a bunch of things and it never helped. So i’m not sure that is related.

A few months ago I noticed oil had been in one of the big wiring harness plugs on the front valve cover. I cleaned with electronic cleaner spray and been running it for months. So maybe the wiring is fried and causing the sensors to freak out?

Edited April 24, 2023 by CrossBnes3129

[1004ron]

If you're really confident that the VVT equipment is good, then its likely the timing has jumped.

 

Checking the resistance of the VVT valves isn't confirmation that they're working.

 

Next step would be to use a scanner to verify the Crank / Cam timing correlation.

[CrossBnes3129]

1 hour ago, 1004ron said:

If you're really confident that the VVT equipment is good, then its likely the timing has jumped.

 

Checking the resistance of the VVT valves isn't confirmation that they're working.

 

Next step would be to use a scanner to verify the Crank / Cam timing correlation.

I’m not confident they’re good but can you recommend some tests to do? I didn't think both would go out at the same time unless one being out throws codes for both? The back side of the motor, the oil on the parts under the valve cover was way darker than the front valves. It was dark brown staining the metal a little.

 

You think the timing could be off despite spark plug one opening or whatever when the timing marks are at the top as well as 2 of the orange colored links lining up on their marks? 

 

I am in the process of reassembling but broke 2 of the spark plug tube seals. So gotta wait on them before I can monitor data with it running.

 

I will use forscan to monitor, what IDs should I monitor?

Edited April 24, 2023 by CrossBnes3129

[CrossBnes3129]

14 hours ago, 1004ron said:

If you're really confident that the VVT equipment is good, then its likely the timing has jumped.

 

Checking the resistance of the VVT valves isn't confirmation that they're working.

 

Next step would be to use a scanner to verify the Crank / Cam timing correlation.

Would you like to see forscan data I recorded?

[CrossBnes3129]

22 hours ago, 1004ron said:

If you're really confident that the VVT equipment is good, then its likely the timing has jumped.

 

Checking the resistance of the VVT valves isn't confirmation that they're working.

 

Next step would be to use a scanner to verify the Crank / Cam timing correlation.