Car will not start when cold

[jones391]

I have a 2010 FWD Edge with only 4100 miles and had to take to Ford for service. Two days in a row it would not start. It turned over for a good ten seconds then started rough.

After it warmed up it runs fine and starts right away. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the problem so they are keeping it over the weekend and hope it wont start on Monday. Does anyone have any ideas on what it might be?

Edited August 1, 2010 by jones391

[jones391]

After two days the dealer was able to duplicate the problem.

They said it has sticky lifters and there is nothing they can do now until something breaks.

There recommended I use better fuel and use fuel cleaner.

Has anyone else had the same problem.

[akirby]

After two days the dealer was able to duplicate the problem.

They said it has sticky lifters and there is nothing they can do now until something breaks.

There recommended I use better fuel and use fuel cleaner.

Has anyone else had the same problem.

 

I call BS on this one. I'd get a second opinion from another dealer.

[claas900]

BS. There are 24 lifters,there is no way all are sticking. Also the fuel you use has nothing to do with the lifters. If they ment injectors there are 6? You might get one even two to stick but all 6 bs. Could be something like a crank sensor,more likely to fail when warm, could be ignition coil. In fact odds are it's nothing to do with the fuel side of it. If when it started and it ran rough more then likely it was flooded. I'll bet it something on the ignition side of it. If it is on the fuel side then either you pump isn't coming on, or the regulator isn't working right. Low fuel pressure wont let the injectors work right. I also dont see why they cant do anything untell something breaks? Wherent they able to duplicate the problem? I'd say take it somewhere else.

[jones391]

BS. There are 24 lifters,there is no way all are sticking. Also the fuel you use has nothing to do with the lifters. If they ment injectors there are 6? You might get one even two to stick but all 6 bs. Could be something like a crank sensor,more likely to fail when warm, could be ignition coil. In fact odds are it's nothing to do with the fuel side of it. If when it started and it ran rough more then likely it was flooded. I'll bet it something on the ignition side of it. If it is on the fuel side then either you pump isn't coming on, or the regulator isn't working right. Low fuel pressure wont let the injectors work right. I also dont see why they cant do anything untell something breaks? Weren't they able to duplicate the problem? I'd say take it somewhere else.

 

When I picked up the car the papers were not ready so they mailed them to me. This is what their report said:

 

Eec test and ignition system test. Relative compression test low in cylinders #1 and #4 when engine is cold. Flue sample is poor fuel quality. Recommend adding 44k and switching to chevron supreme to clean sticking valves.

I still hear a couple of clicks (possible from the lifters) when it starts cold.

I did not buy their 44k but added Chevron injector cleaner and Lucas upper cylinder lubricant (injector cleaner & Flue conditioner

Edited August 6, 2010 by jones391

[Twiggy2cents]

If I had to guess you had some winterblend fuel in there. Has it only been this tank? Winterblend fuel and warm temps equal flooding. When a engine floods the gas washes the cylinders of oil and you lose compression(somewhat drastically) If it happens again try holding the pedal wide open throttle why cranking, this will disable the injectors and clear the engine of fuel.

 

Thats my 2 cents.

[claas900]

With 4,100 miles, you'd have to run some very poor fuel to affect a new motor. Unless your fuel had a lot of water in it. Low compression could be from lifter bleed down or dirty valves,again hard to believe with a new motor and that much gunk will never pass threw the injectors. I'd like to see that comp test on a cold then warmed up motor. Even with 2 low comp cylinders the motor should start way faster then in ten seconds. I'd bet you could even have 3 dead holes and still start faster then ten seconds. Either you got some really,really bad fuel or there is something electoral going wrong.

[jones391]

When I picked up the car the papers were not ready so they mailed them to me. This is what their report said:

 

EEG test and ignition system test. Relative compression test low in cylinders #1 and #4 when engine is cold. Flue sample is poor fuel quality. Recommend adding 44K and switching to chevron supreme to clean sticking valves.

 

I still hear a couple of clicks (possible from the lifters) when it starts cold.

I did not buy their 44k but added Chevron injector cleaner and Lucas upper cylinder lubricant (injector cleaner & Flue conditioner)

 

 

Up date:

 

After I filled it up with Premium Gas and put in Lucas upper cylinder lubricant (injector cleaner & Flue conditioner) it starts great.

I did notice there was a two quick clicking or tapping sounds the first few days when I first started it cold. That might be the sticking lifters???????

[C7XR7]

If I had sticking lifters after only putting on 4100 miles I would be livid. I think something else is a problem here and if it needed injector cleaner why didn't the dealer provide it under warranty? I would lean toward an electronics problem and I wouldn't stop until the dealer repairs it or refunded my purchase price.