beezerk Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 I have an 08 SEL w/ the base CDx6/MP3 and 4 speakers. I'm going to add an aftermkt amp and sub via an MTX re-Q converter. I've searched the forum and haven't been able to find instructions for removing the head unit. (1) Does anyone out there have 'em? It's not obvious to me how to pop the center console bezel... Also, (2) can anyone confirm that there is NO external amp in this factory config? Thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) well, I will assume the 6 cd is just like the nav unit in terms of first stages of removal so, that giant center console (entire piece with the little pocket/holder on the dash down to the cubby hole area) can pop right out in 3 seconds with just easy hand pressure. I just put both hands flat on the top of that center console piece up on the dash and use firm pressure and pull slight down and right towards you and it will pop free.. cake. I have done it literally dozens of times. no tools, no prying, simple hand pressure. from there, removal will be easy as pie to see... a series of nuts, slide out cd unit from the frame, disconnect wires from back.. viola. 15 minute job at best. Edited April 9, 2009 by Lex Talionis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beezerk Posted April 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 well, I will assume the 6 cd is just like the nav unit in terms of first stages of removal so, that giant center console (entire piece with the little pocket/holder on the dash down to the cubby hole area) can pop right out in 3 seconds with just easy hand pressure. I just put both hands flat on the top of that center console piece up on the dash and use firm pressure and pull slight down and right towards you and it will pop free.. cake. I have done it literally dozens of times. no tools, no prying, simple hand pressure. from there, removal will be easy as pie to see... a series of nuts, slide out cd unit from the frame, disconnect wires from back.. viola. 15 minute job at best. Muy Bien! Seems you've done quite a bit of audio mods - So... one more question. Given that the re-Q/amp will have a low-pass crossover point of ~100-125Hz, I'm thinking of adding bass blockers on the 4 speakers for a poor man's high-pass crossover above ~100Hz. Are the bass blockers a reasonable solution? My thinking is to kill the low freq to the 4 speakers that the sub will be taking care of... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Talionis Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Muy Bien! Seems you've done quite a bit of audio mods - So... one more question. Given that the re-Q/amp will have a low-pass crossover point of ~100-125Hz, I'm thinking of adding bass blockers on the 4 speakers for a poor man's high-pass crossover above ~100Hz. Are the bass blockers a reasonable solution? My thinking is to kill the low freq to the 4 speakers that the sub will be taking care of... sorry my man... your now speaking gibberish to me. I go by what sounds right and good to me, but that level of knowledge is way beyond me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Muy Bien! Seems you've done quite a bit of audio mods - So... one more question. Given that the re-Q/amp will have a low-pass crossover point of ~100-125Hz, I'm thinking of adding bass blockers on the 4 speakers for a poor man's high-pass crossover above ~100Hz. Are the bass blockers a reasonable solution? My thinking is to kill the low freq to the 4 speakers that the sub will be taking care of... Set it at 100 HZ, and if you are going to use the same headunit, most probably it already has the low-pass at the output given that it has sub-woofer-out, also do not worry too much, mainly all speakers of that size will hardly reach 100 HZ without a roll off, what kind of speakers are placing on the doors? Also as the last resource you can use two caps in parallel and that will do the low pass for you, but most of them will not even need that, and roll off will begin above that point...also keep in mind that maybe the headunit already has a low pass in the output, if it has sub-woofer output to couple them properly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beezerk Posted April 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) Set it at 100 HZ, and if you are going to use the same headunit, most probably it already has the low-pass at the output given that it has sub-woofer-out, also do not worry too much, mainly all speakers of that size will hardly reach 100 HZ without a roll off, what kind of speakers are placing on the doors? Also as the last resource you can use two caps in parallel and that will do the low pass for you, but most of them will not even need that, and roll off will begin above that point...also keep in mind that maybe the headunit already has a low pass in the output, if it has sub-woofer output to couple them properly... I've never been a fan of active bass blockers - much prefer passive crossover, pre-amplification. Just looking to protect the speakers. The OEM config has the 4 door speakers only - don't know if the head's high-pass is active since the car did not come with a factory sub. I'm keeping the factory head to drive the door speakers. Dropping in 2pr of old BA CX8 5x7 coaxs - still sound great; from a 93 Explorer -> 99 Expedition -> this 08 Edge... I am a major cheap@@s ;-) Your comment on the sub-out has me re-thinking my approach for adding the re-Q/amp/sub. I was going to tap into the front L/R outs of the head as the source for the re-Q/amp/sub, but maybe I should just use the head's sub out as a source - Y/N? Edited April 11, 2009 by beezerk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 I've never been a fan of active bass blockers - much prefer passive crossover, pre-amplification. Just looking to protect the speakers. The OEM config has the 4 door speakers only - don't know if the head's high-pass is active since the car did not come with a factory sub. I'm keeping the factory head to drive the door speakers. Dropping in 2pr of old BA CX8 5x7 coaxs - still sound great; from a 93 Explorer -> 99 Expedition -> this 08 Edge... I am a major cheap@@s ;-) Your comment on the sub-out has me re-thinking my approach for adding the re-Q/amp/sub. I was going to tap into the front L/R outs of the head as the source for the re-Q/amp/sub, but maybe I should just use the head's sub out as a source - Y/N? Check if you have it, I think that they will not make two differents headunits, one for each configuration chances are that they are the same connected differently... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beezerk Posted April 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Check if you have it, I think that they will not make two differents headunits, one for each configuration chances are that they are the same connected differently... Spliced into the front L/R outputs for the Re-Q inputs and skipped the bass blockers. Set the Re-Q's low-pass at 110Hz. The combination of the sub (100W driving a vented Kicker 8") and the Boston Acoustics 5x7s has provided a huge improvement in listenability for a small amount of coin! Thanks for all your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyt_out Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Spliced into the front L/R outputs for the Re-Q inputs and skipped the bass blockers. Set the Re-Q's low-pass at 110Hz. The combination of the sub (100W driving a vented Kicker 8") and the Boston Acoustics 5x7s has provided a huge improvement in listenability for a small amount of coin! Thanks for all your help! Hey beezerk, Did you have problems determining which wire was to each speaker when you hooked up the MTX Re-Q. I just my Edge and I'm thinking about doing the same thing you did. Is it the standard Ford wire scheme? Thanks! :shades: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beezerk Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) Hey beezerk, Did you have problems determining which wire was to each speaker when you hooked up the MTX Re-Q. I just my Edge and I'm thinking about doing the same thing you did. Is it the standard Ford wire scheme? Thanks! :shades: White was more of a tan than a white - here's the wire colors going to the back of the head unit - I've noted the pin# (larger 24 pin connector of the 2) for the signals I spliced into: Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red #02 Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue (remote-out) Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow/Green Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Purple/Red (didn't use this) --- #08 Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White #21 Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown --- #11 Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Purple #12 Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange --- #09 Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green (didn't touch this) #22 Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow (didn't touch this) --- #10 Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White (didn't touch this) #23 Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue (didn't touch this) Mounted the Re-Q and the sub's amp under the front pass seat - see the pic. Good clearance, protected, and easy access to settings, but then my pass seat is a manual... Ran the +12V sub amp cable through the driver's side firewall bushing containing the main fuse block's wire bundle. Made a small cut (very carefully!) in the boot next to the bundle and pushed the 8ga power cable through it. For the Re-Q's power, I Yed off the amp's +12V and Ground connectors. Don't confuse the Re-Q's rmt-IN (from #02 above) and rmt-OUT (to the sub's amp). Edited April 24, 2009 by beezerk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanatronic Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 White was more of a tan than a white - here's the wire colors going to the back of the head unit - I've noted the pin# (larger 24 pin connector of the 2) for the signals I spliced into: Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red #02 Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue (remote-out) Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow/Green Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Purple/Red (didn't use this) --- #08 Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White #21 Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown --- #11 Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Purple #12 Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange --- #09 Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green (didn't touch this) #22 Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow (didn't touch this) --- #10 Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White (didn't touch this) #23 Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue (didn't touch this) Mounted the Re-Q and the sub's amp under the front pass seat - see the pic. Good clearance, protected, and easy access to settings, but then my pass seat is a manual... Ran the +12V sub amp cable through the driver's side firewall bushing containing the main fuse block's wire bundle. Made a small cut (very carefully!) in the boot next to the bundle and pushed the 8ga power cable through it. For the Re-Q's power, I Yed off the amp's +12V and Ground connectors. Don't confuse the Re-Q's rmt-IN (from #02 above) and rmt-OUT (to the sub's amp). Be careful with the polarity on the speakers, in mine they were reversed, not sure why they did that, the white cable was connected to the negative, and the black ot the positive, I know as I used Metra connectors and those have the polarity marked, and thye were opposite in color to the stock configuration...maybe they have different codes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beezerk Posted April 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Be careful with the polarity on the speakers, in mine they were reversed, not sure why they did that, the white cable was connected to the negative, and the black ot the positive, I know as I used Metra connectors and those have the polarity marked, and thye were opposite in color to the stock configuration...maybe they have different codes... I also swapped out the factory speakers, and verfed the colors, +/- matched... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyt_out Posted May 7, 2009 Report Share Posted May 7, 2009 I also swapped out the factory speakers, and verfed the colors, +/- matched... Hey beezerk, Thanks for wire set up. I'll let you know how it goes probably after Memorial Day weekend when I plan on doing this. Peace...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyt_out Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Hey beezerk, Thanks for wire set up. I'll let you know how it goes probably after Memorial Day weekend when I plan on doing this. Peace...... Major thanks to beezerk, Kanatronic, and Lex Talionis for giving me great install advice. I installed the Infinity Kappa 680.7C speakers in the front doors and Reference 6822CF in the rear doors. I've had many, many name brands in my vehicles over the years and the Infinity's (for decent $) sound great. I pushed these with the HU for about 2 weeks and I would say they gave me a really good upgrade to the stock speaks. Last weekend, I installed the MTX Re-Q5 mounted right under the HU behind the dash and ran the patch cables and speaker wire under the center console to the amps under the rear seats which I took out for install. The amps are both Alpine MRP-F250 and MRP-M650 which pushs the Alpine 1242 sub in a sealed 1 cu. ft. box. The toons now completely BLOW ME AWAY! This was one of the easiest vehicles I've ever installed any stereo equipment. My only little disappointment, is I completed covered all four doors with Dynamat Extreme and didn't get the noise reduction I thought I'd get. The interior sounds a little quieter, but not very much. Anyway, thanks again guys. I really appreciate the help! Rock on! Wyt_out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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