rogersmj

I have the ProClip for my wife's Edge -- it works great. It's our "long trip" vehicle, so I need a phone to show me Google/Apple maps nav and be positioned well, AND hold a charging cable so the phone doesn't drain. It was about $100 for both the vehicle-specific mount and the iPhone-specific mount (which holds an OEM Apple lightning cable firmly at the bottom, so you can just drop the phone in), but it was worth it. I got the one that positions the phone just to the right of the steering wheel, which I like better than the KUDA options that put the phone on the opposite side of the center stack. I also like that it all is put together with screws that you can use to adjust the tightness of the phone clamp and rotator ball -- no adhesive necessary.

Well, I was using engine braking, but apparently not enough. Thanks for your advice.

Thanks for your thoughts, akirby. I'm not planning on turning the rotors -- my experiences with that have had mixed results, often resulting in warping again shortly after. If I'm going to get in there and do the brakes, I'd prefer to go ahead and just replace the rotors too. On past vehicles, a wrench and a rubber mallet have gotten calipers off for me. I was drawn by the drilled and slotted kit I linked to because my understanding is that's going to be more resistant to heat. If I find myself in the mountains again with my 4200lb Edge, it might be nice. I can get that kit for a little over $400. The other option I'm looking at is this kit (link), with solid rotors, for about $290. You're probably right, the drilled/slotted ones are likely overkill.

I'm looking to do the brakes on my wife's 2011 Edge SEL soon, all 4 corners. It's got 55k miles and we still have the originals on there. It's been quite a few years since I've done a brake job, but I'd like to try and do this one myself. I've done quite a bit of searching but haven't been able to find a how-to guide that walks through the process. Does anyone have any good resources you can point me to? I mean, I know generally how to change brakes, but I could use a refresher, and are there any gotchas or special things to be aware of on the Edge? Just want to be prepared so I don't take the car apart and then run into something unexpected. Second, the actual products to use...the OEM ones are pulsing a little bit (despite me trying to be careful with them, the rotors have never quite been the same since our big trip out west with lots of mountain driving). I wouldn't mind getting something a little nicer, as long as it doesn't cost a ton (this is the wife/familymobile, after all, it's not driven aggressively), and I came across this kit which is very highly reviewed. Any thoughts or alternate recommendations? Thanks for your advice.

Vent: SyncMyRide.com is a piece of crap. It may be one of the most frustrating web sites I've ever used. I know it works OK for some people -- it's worked OK for me too, occasionally. But often, it doesn't. Below is my most recent saga. As if the constant MyFord Touch bugs I'm STILL experiencing weren't enough, they have to make it next to impossible to get updates. Attempted to download an update via SyncMyRide.com *on Chrome* on my Mac last month. It refuses, and tells me my browser is not supported, asking that I please use *Chrome* if I'm on a Mac. Um... Try my other Mac. Same result. Dig up my work Mac, boot directly into Windows 7 and (illegally) use it for personal activity -- updating my Ford. I start with FireFox on Windows (my default browser there), which ALSO fails even though SyncMyRide.com says it's supported. Eventually get the update downloaded using IE, but after performing the update I return to the computer to try and report the install -- and syncmyride.com crashes. I give up for the night. Fast forward one month-ish. There's a newer update out, apparently. I fire up a Windows 7/IE9 virtual machine on my home Mac (which I now keep just for stupid web sites like this) and attempt to use IE to report an install from my Ford, to make sure I get the right update. It says my browser is not supported. If I'm in Windows, it says, please use Chrome, Internet Explorer, or FireFox. Yeah...again, I *am* using one of the browsers on the list: IE. Argh. I decide to give Chrome on the Mac another go, vainly hoping they've fixed the issue in the past month. Instead of showing me the incompatible browser message when I attempt to confirm an update, it now just shows me an animated loading graphic. Forever. At this point, any normal consumer would have given up long ago. I decide to double-check that I have ActiveX enabled in IE (since I use that virtual machine pretty much...never), and -- almost out of curiosity -- click on the link on SyncMyRide.com's browser error message for "How do I enable ActiveX in my browser?" It returns me to the SyncMyRide.com landing page with no information about enabling ActiveX. I bang my head on my desk and consider just how much Ford apparently doesn't give a shit about its customers, because this web site has been misbehaving like this for at LEAST the 2 years I've owned this particular Ford. What they're doing is kind of complicated, but it's not rocket science. With the right resources applied against it, this web site could have been fixed long ago. Instead, it's just different kinds of broken every time I go there. Yes, I have Java. Yes, on the Windows/IE side ActiveX is enabled. I don't have any funky firewall/security software installed on the Macs or Windows. These are pretty vanilla installs and the damn web site refuses to work consistently. I am seriously at a loss for how to get updates for our car other than begging access to friends' computers (of which there is no guarantee the site will work there either) or taking it to the dealer every time. Disclaimer: I'm a software engineer and, specifically, run a web product development team for a Fortune 500. I know more about how this stuff gets built than most people, and I gave it a really good shot before posting this rant. I don't necessarily like random bashing on forums, but I feel this is justified. P.S. I know from an employee that works at Ford that until very recently (earlier this year, I think?) most employees were stuck with IE6 as their browser on work computers. IE6! Marketing teams had to get executive orders for third-party browser installs or use personal computers to do things like post on Facebook and Youtube, which don't work in IE6 anymore. I don't know how relevant this is to SyncMyRide.com, but if it's indicative of their corporate culture for adopting new technology then I can certainly see it having an impact in some way.

Hey everyone-- I'd like to mod my LED bars like frybel did in the first post. I'm just trying to figure out the right stuff because the original items linked to earlier in the thread don't seem to be available anymore. What about these: LEDs: http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Hella-LEDayline-LED-Daytime-Running-Lights-DRL-p/led_ddl_sku78.htm And then what else would I need? What would be the equivalent of the "control box" that came with the kit that was linked to in the original post? Thanks....

Was looking for LED kits to mod my light pipes when I saw these: http://www.ebay.com/...c13e54c&vxp=mtr The look really interesting, with the LED running lamps built right into the headlights. I searched the forum here but haven't been able to find any mention of them. What do you think? Has anyone tried these? OOPs, just noticed they're only for 2007-2010, so they wouldn't fit mine. Still would be cool to see them on an Edge.

We now have around 40k miles on our 2011 Edge and the tires are going to have to be replaced within 10k miles, probably more like 5k. I'm not replacing with the same brand as OEM. The brakes...I'm not sure about their life per se, but I have a bit of a pulsation and I'm not sure if it's the brakes or the tires. Probably the tires since I can sense it even when not applying the brakes, but the effect is exaggerated when braking. It could be a warped rotor that, when rotating at speed, is affecting the balance of the wheel.

Yep, I'm still keeping an eye out! We probably have a good 10k miles left on our existing tires, so I'm not in a rush. I see you're in Dallas though...shipping could be a bear.

Want to buy OEM Ford Edge 20" wheels and tires, preferably with less than 5k miles on them. 20" Ford Taurus SHO wheels would work too, those look nice as well. I'm hoping someone will be willing to unload these for a reasonable price, as the cost of replacing the OEM tires on our 18" wheels is already quite high; I figured I'd see if I could score some bigger wheels for just a few hundred bucks more. Thanks!

We bought a 2011 Edge SEL FWD w/ leather/MFT package in October of 2010. Except for MyFord Touch (which is still a bit buggy but greatly improved from when we first bought the car), it's been a great vehicle. We have 35k miles on it, and have driven it on lots of trips including from Indianapolis out to Yellowstone and back. No problems with anything yet, knock on wood. Our average fuel economy is ~23mpg with about 50/50 highway/city. Like: + Ride + Seats + Size + Smoothness of the V6 + Configurable displays in instrument cluster + Style + Tires Dislike: - You can't really store anything under the rear seats. Tried to put a blanket under there, but then they won't fold flat. - Stock audio on SEL is TERRIBLE. - Aforementioned MFT bugs - Color (wife REALLY wanted the red, but it's not the best on this car. If it was mine, I would have gone white or that earthy bronze, every time I see those they're my favorite) - Weight. This thing is ~4200+ lbs, and feels it. On the heavy side for the class.

mmcclure, I'm interested in your enclosure. PM sent.

I do wish I had the 20" on our SEL, but I'm not sure which wheels you mean when you say black/black/black 18". I'm sure I don't have them, but I just thought I'd ask! I do have 18", but they're pretty standard and are not black.

We've lived with our upgraded MFT for about 5 weeks now, after suffering almost every bug in the book with the previous one for 1.5 years (at one point I had an open bug list of 37 items). Pros: - Much faster - Cleaner interface (although I don't agree with all their decisions) - Most of the little bugs we had been experiencing are gone Cons: Significant radio bugs If you hang up from a phone call when the radio was off, it will sometimes turn on to FM as soon as you hang up Twice, the radio turned on when we started the car even though the main display indicated it was off, and the driver display indicated it was on. Then when we shut the car off, the radio wouldn't shut off. We had to restart the car and fiddle with all the radio controls several times before it would actually turn off. You can't walk away from the car until you get this sorted out, or it will run the battery down. [*]Don't like where they moved the outside temperature display [*]Don't like that you can no longer see the artist/song when on the Home screen on the main display My 2011 Kia Optima SX w/ nav performs all the same functions as MyFord Touch does with a couple minor exceptions (voice control of music isn't quite as robust, for example), and I haven't experienced a SINGLE bug in that car's software in the year I've had it. These ongoing problems with MFT really make it tough to consider Ford for the next vehicle, no matter how much I want to. Minor annoyances get more and more irritating as we close in on 2 years and are still experiencing substantial issues. I've been very patient but am starting to feel like I've been cheated. Still, the rewrite was a big step in the right direction, maybe some patches will be out soon that will resolve the rest of our problems.

Thanks, you're right, it did come back...this is ridiculous how it wants you to keep the engine idling during the upgrade, for up to an hour. What a waste of gas.

So I downloaded the file to my USB stick, started the upgrade...and now my screen has been blank for about 10 minutes. It started with the progress bar for a few seconds, but then it went completely blank and has remained that way. Should I be worried? What should I do?

I put these in my wife's 2011 SEL and I didn't think there was as much of a difference as others have said. They somehow seem both harsh and muddy at the same time. Better than the stocks but not that good, IMO. I did aim the tweeters but I didn't mess with the tweeter boost switch. ukjason, you're suggesting I dampen the tweeters with that switch?

I realize this is an old thread but I *really* want to see a pic of the sub enclosure you're using there. Also, would a capacitor on the line to the amp help resolve the "pop" I get over the speakers when the vehicle is off and the MyFord Touch screen cycles on/off?

Yeah, our SEL's have the "tweeters" integrated into the door speakers -- there's really only 4 speakers in an SEL, one in each door, but Ford counts the components of those speakers separately.

Well it's possible you don't see the outside temp readout because the new Escape doesn't have that sensor, or they just haven't implemented it yet because this is still Alpha software we're seeing (I just spoke to someone at Ford last week who had seen this version -- it's still considered Alpha). Regardless, I'm glad to see Ford finally publicly announce what we've been hearing for so long -- we'll all get this major update (total rewrite) in early 2012. And, they'll be mailing out USB key drives to the 300,000 of us who already suffer with the current version of MyFord Touch, so we won't have to waste a Saturday morning at the dealership.

PeteSawyer, I think you misunderstood me...I already upgraded the door speakers to Infiniti reference 6x9s. Not happy with how those sounded (weak low end), I installed the sub. Even with all that power being channeled back to the sub though, I still have very little low end up front, despite the new speakers. I haven't done dynamat, but the dynamat wouldn't solve the problem I'm having with the sub, I don't think.

I just used the 3M super sticky mounting disk that came with our Garmin, and stuck it on the shiny piece of dash trim just to the right of the MyFord Touch screen. The suction cup then attaches to that. Works great, all wires hidden, no vents blocked.

Finally got 2.11 installed last night; had to dig up an older Mac with Snow Leopard still on it, Ford's data loader apparently won't work with Lion yet. It freaked me out for a few minutes; after taking about 45 minutes to install, I went out to check on it again and found the MFT screen completely black. I power cycled the car (with the key)...nothing. So I pulled fuse 29...still nothing. I started the car, pulled fuse 29 again, popped it back in...and after about a minute, the screen came to life and started to boot up. I played with it briefly, and the interface was DEFINITELY faster. While not as fast as it really should be, I was at least seeing some animation between screens, for example, rather than none at all. I haven't checked any other functions yet, as it's my wife's car I asked her to be on the lookout today. I'm hoping 2.11 does a good job of patching things over until the rewrite comes out next year...we just got back from a 4,000 mile vacation trip out west, and in just 8 days we experienced 4 system crashes, at least a dozen instances of missing radio presets, and at least 5 times the radio locked up such that we *couldn't turn it off*, or, sometimes, even adjust the volume. Oh, and the clock is sometimes not right. I work on a team that builds software for a living, and it continually blows my mind that anything so shitty that can't even handle basic functions like volume and a clock correctly got out the door.

^ No, I have no alternator whining. Now that I've lived with this project for a few weeks, I have a couple questions for Linty or anyone else who might be able to answer. 1. I'm not getting full bass range up in the front seats. In the back, it sounds fine. Quite powerful. But in the front seat, I'm missing a good portion of the bass range. I get *most* of the "punch" of, for example, a bass drum, but a lot of actual bass notes, like from bass guitars, are lost. I don't just want to turn up bass volume because any higher and the rear seat passengers are completely overwhelmed with bass. So I'm wondering...is this indicative of something else? Is the sub box I built not big enough, or not sealed properly? Any other ideas? 2. Since adding the sub (and line level processor, and amp), I get a "pop" from the sound system whenever the MFT screens cycle on and off when the car is not turned on. For example...open the door, get in the car. The main screen goes white (and I think maybe displays the Ford logo, I can't remember). Now if you *don't* start the car and just wait a few moments, the screen will shut off. When this happens, there's a "pop" over the speakers. Same thing happens if you open the doors from the inside after sitting in the car with it off for a few moments, and the screens turn on. Any thoughts? Thank you for any help.

^ Well yes it requires ActiveX on *Windows*, but there's no such thing on Mac OS so it uses Java there. Their support page explicitly states they support Chrome on the Mac, and as I said I've actually done it before on Chrome on my Mac. But now it's broken, and I've tried three different machines.