nextime

I dont think new cars use rivets anymore however yes all brakes will make a noise when they start to go bad. Once you hear noise that is when the extra wear/damage is happening to the rotors so get it fixed quick!

I have mine adjusted like that but with the extra mirror in there you can see so much more.

Well since it is still under warranty and you took it to the dealer and they "solved" the issue by using WD-40 but it still squeaks have them replace the broken/wore/squeaky part. This will fix the issue permanently and remove all your band-aids!

I like the look of the mirrors however I do like the integrated little blind spot mirror.

Sorry but that sounds very ricer to me, I liked the Magnaflow better.

They may have been not seated in properly, there is a break in method for pads and rotors.

Then use Silicone Spray Lubricant, this does not dry out like the others.

Wore out pads it sounds like.

Raybestos is always good and top end products, I personally use and recommend them.

Yep dealer only or professional locksmith with only one key.

Easy on the "ALL CAPS", in a forum environment it is considered yelling at someone.

Compared to all the new lubricants out there WD-40 is at the bottom, the only thing I like about it is the smell and the new spray nozzle.

In another thread Tahoe stated that the stock alternator and battery were sufficient and is doing the job perfectly.

I had this issue with my alarm. If I remote started the car and then decided to shut it off the radio would stay on for 30 min. The alarm installer contacted the mfg of the alarm and I got a bypass relay installed and they said there was no way to modify the 30min accessory feature.

I personally would like to shut off this feature but from what I have experienced with my Alarm install there is no way to prolong or shut off this feature.

Man I would like to see anybody or any breaking system that was so strong it would bend the rotors! BS is what they just fed you. Your service center used inferior rotors, big issue when not using stock or top end quality top end aftermarket parts. There is no reason for you to keep paying or having to purchase an upgraded brake parts. They installed junk so they should fix it for free. They will learn a lesson by selling junk after they keep replacing your parts under warranty. Tell them if they don't permanently fix the issue you will consult a Lawyer.

Use White Lithium spray grease. This will not ever wear off and will stay on. WD-40 is junk in the real lubrication world.

Yeah I want to do this on my 2011 but no one has a kit, stereo or any info on doing anything to the 2011 yet since it is a whole new system.

Do you got a copy of the wiring diagram to post?

Very awesome custom job! What headunit are you using?

Gotta slam mine too. Gonna see if I can adjust it a little in the summer. On my 98 Windstar you really had to slam it hard and I fixed that by dremeling the latch mounting holes to move the latch higher. It was so bad sometimes I had to slam the hood several times to get it to close. It ended up cracking the paint on the fiberglass/plastic hood.

I like the amp location you choose, I will have to remember that location for my sub install at a later date.

I agree 150amps is a lot and is sufficient. I have a 130amp alternator in my 1998 Windstar with 139,000 miles on with no cap and original grounds and power wires. I am running a very old MTX 250 Watt amp in mono/stereo running 1 Kicker 10' non ported sub and I barely get dimming lights. I imagine if I upgraded the amp to a newer less power sucking unit and stock ground and positive wires my dimming would go away.

The 2010 Edge mats had one post and the 2011 started using the 2 post, I know cause my dealer ordered the wrong mats cause it said the 2010 and 2011 used the same mats. FYI Weather tech did not sell the 2011 mats until recently, this is why it asks now if it is 2 post attachment.

Thank you for the links.