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Ok so I really have no idea what I did to get it off but it came off. The new sensor is a SW-7676 or GC3Z-9278-A and was 6 bucks. Getting the sensor out and the new on installed was tricky due to limited space, so having lots of different size extensions helps. I also changed the oil. I saw no wear particles in the oil or filter so hoping that is a good sign. Once the OC was done I fired it up and so far no oil pressure warning. I will drive it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. So if you get that message it might be worth the effort to swap out this sensor to see if it fixes your issue. Worst case your out a few bucks and some time.

Can anyone tell me if there is a trick to getting this damn connector off the oil switch? I picked one up since it is cheap enough but can't even get to the point of replacing it. I have the filter off so I can get my hand in there but only one and I think it might take two. The switch itself doesn't seem to be flexible at all so it must be the connector that flexes but nothing seems to make it budge. Please help...was planning to use the truck this weekend for family vacation.

OK...doing a little more digging and found a thread where someone mentions a solenoid valve that controls oil pressure, is this for real? https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24250-oil-pressure-sensor/?do=findComment&comment=184775 Also, does anyone happen to know what the idle oil pressure is supposed to be? I have a gauge at home, so if I can find the right fittings I should be able to get a measurement.

Unfortunately i am at work and can't start diagnosing this until tonight but I am hoping the collective knowledge here can help me save some time. So first a little background, this is a 2011 Ford Edge with around 120k miles which we have owned since new. Most oil changes have been done by me with Ford filters and either their synthetic blend oil, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil full synthetic. All changes were done prior to the calculated requirement, most of the time with about 50% left. There has never been a real consumption issue, obviously there is some but I don't think I add much more than a quart to quart and a half between changes. The weekend before last I checked the oil and topped it off, maybe 1/2 qt. Everything has seemed fine with no CEL or other oddities until this morning. That is when my wife texted me saying the low oil pressure light came on and it was beeping. I told her not to go anywhere and to check the oil level in a few minutes. In that time I found Mact's video about the programming glitch. So when I called her back she confirmed the oil was between the holes so I told her to turn it on again and tell me if the light came on. It didn't. So I told her to shut it down and come back in 10 minutes to try again, if good drive it up the street and back. This tie when she turned it over the light came on again. So after doing a search of the forum I found two things that popped up. One was to check the oil pressure sender to see if it is leaking internally. So my first question is, can someone point me to where this is? Just don't want to be wasting time since we seem to get thunderstorms every night and might not have much time to look at this. The other item that came up was a purge valve but I don't think this is the issue since the truck isn't stalling. Thoughts? Can anyone confirm what drives the oil pump and the location of the pump? From the pictures I have seen it looks like it might be mounted outside the oil pan which could make swapping it easier but I am guessing this is not the case. Any other recommendations? With this being a sudden thing with good oil level I am highly suspect of the sensor, especially since it isn't 100% consistent even today.

2011 and yes the indicator by the shifter itself. I didn't totally remove that console piece so I could only lift it a little and couldn't see where it clipped in. Tried watching a video for the lockpick install, they mention it but don't really show the mount.

2011 and yes the indicator by the shifter itself. I didn't totally remove that console piece so I could only lift it a little and couldn't see where it clipped in. Tried watching a video for the lockpick install, they mention it but don't really show the mount.

So today I decided to run a USB charging cable behind the console pieces and come out the vents up top. It all went well with one exception...I lost my shifter lights. I saw the cable was loose but couldn't see in there well enough to see how or where it actually clipped in. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of where this goes and how it is secured?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17508-reverse-cam-woes/page-2?do=findComment&comment=129556

Not for me since I already had it replaced...I think it is a one and done thing. Just hoping the problem with the booster was a bad batch or something rather than a crap design like the door latches that continually fail.

Thanks. Downloaded PDF and bookmarked this page. Hopefully I will never need it.

Yes please post pics/walkthrough...I suspect this may be an issue I will have to deal with again like the door ajar issue.

I would do a test fit...Tire Rack shows the smallest rim as 18" so there might be some clearance issue.

One point I would like to make is I have driven cars with out power brakes, some MG's etc and this was far worse. Maybe somehow having the system in there to boost the output reduces non-powered operation or something but this was far and away worse than any old car I have driven.

Check the center bores too. If the center bore is larger on the Escape wheels you can still use them but you will have to be more careful installing them. If the bore is too small you'd have to get them machined. As for tire size I would recommend checking out Tire Rack or Discount Tire Direct websites and see what sizes they recommend for your vehicle. I think that size should be OK but again I would use their data to confirm.

Glad to hear you are OK. Hearing more and more stories like this gets me really pissed off. We had no indication there was a problem until it went. We too were lucky that we were on my buddies driveway and not out on Rt 80 in rush hour traffic when it failed. It makes me angry because the letter I received specifically said that even if it failed the only difference would be pedal feel. This clearly was not the case for us as my braking distances were easily double if not triple the normal length. This really should be a recall.

That one I linked to on Amazon didn't require any mods to reprogram the camera but I do think I got a message about some sensors it couldn't read. But it did allow me to run the set up in FORSCAN to get the lines back.

Wow...I got mine from Levittown and pretty sure I paid right around 100...for $340 I would have let the dealer do it for their offer of like 500. That is of course unless their price has gone up 200 bucks too. That camera is barely worth 100...340 is just stupid.

Just be careful...the Edge AWD is not the best system I have driven. Don't get me wrong it will get the job done but my old Subaru and current Audi get the job done with less fuss and ground clearance. Also keep in mind the weight of the Edge. I found it was very difficult even with snow tires to stop and turn as well as my Audi with all seasons on. ABS kicks in a lot. But with that said it keeps you from being that idiot in the ditch that thinks their four wheel drive can do anything. That constant reminder of slippage keeps you reeled in.

Just a dumb question...did you connect the laptop to the OBD's wifi? I don't have a wifi version but I assume it must broadcast a signal for you to connect to, once you select that network then try opening Forscan.

Glad the screens caps helped...and I did mine from the back using a method detailed by another forum member. You use a dremel to slot the end of the screw then to put it back I used a zip tie.

Forgot I did screen caps back when I did this...check out post #18 for caps and #20 for link to the OBD dongle I was using http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20314-idsscan-tool/?hl=forscan&do=findComment&comment=150602

Well we drove from NNJ to the Outer Banks, NC then to Surfside Beach, SC and averaged 24ish and no signs of brake issues so hoping it is all sorted at this point.

I just figure I have never found a dealer that didn't want money, so the shear fact they refused to do it while providing a free service and since all they see are Fords I have to believe there's something to their concern. For those that are comfortable doing flushes...go for it...for those not sure, maybe more frequent drain and fills are the way to go. My plan is to do a drain and fill every 30k or so.

There really wasn't much to it...you selected the calibration and with a few seconds it was done. At least for me the fix has stayed, I think we did it back in May and still works today.

I really don't know but not sure I want to take the chance if the dealer was so dead set against it. Just doesn't make sense unless they have seen a real problem. But with that said maybe it is a function of their machine or how they operate it, just not sure why the larger trans' would be OK.