wlepse

Responded to your other post...but if MFT reboot doesn't work check out FORScan. I used that recently to calibrate my camera myself.

Did you double check the settings in the MFT or forcing a reboot?

Good info. Do you know if the Ford turbos also have oil coolers? I would hope so if they were ever running a 5W20. Just seems like too low a viscosity to be running knowing turbos can shear the oil down and reduce the viscosity over time. 20 weight is already pretty damn thin.

Water cooling does help quite a bit but turbos still get hot and the oil tends to break down faster. I don't know what oil Ford recommends for this engine or what the OCI's are but if I were to buy another turbo I would be using the highest quality oil in the correct weight I could find. Bob is the Oil Guy is a good resource for this. Also, sure I will get flamed for this, but I would change my oil more frequently than what the manufacturer recommends, at a bare minimum I would follow the severe service guide. I say this because several times mfgs have made mistakes in either their oil selection, OCI's, filter size or all of the above. I mentioned above that my other car is an Audi A4. This car has a 1.8 liter engine that is known to be a sludge problem and many had this happen before 100k. I suspect I have gotten over 260k because despite their claims of 10k changes on regular oil I did 5k changes with Mobil 1. Later they revised it to 5k with only synthetic oil, changing from 5W30 to 0W40 and at least doubled the size of the filter. To me oil changes are cheap and easy to do so I would rather leave a little on the table with still serviceable oil rather than have a major mechanical failure because I tried to save a few fractions of a penny per mile. I do the same with the 3.5 in the wife's Edge, when I see about 40% left I change the oil.

I don't have a Ford turbo but my other car is an Audi A4 turbo with 260k on the original engine and turbo. Most important thing with all engines but especially true with turbos is changing your oil on time.

I haven't tried my other BT OBDII adapter but this is the one I used so I know it works: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=lp_4920137011_1_1?srs=4920137011&ie=UTF8&qid=1462404440&sr=8-1

Wow these guys rule. Took me longer to get the screen caps of the process than to actually do it. Have the grid lines and colored blocks back overlaying the rear cam image. So nice to have this back, but even nicer that they went out of their way to do this. I highly recommend FORScan. Thanks again to omar302 for pointing me in the right direction. Attached are screen caps of the process, couldn't be easier.

Just a quick update...I provided the logs they were looking for and today I got a revised program to test out. Hoping I get a chance to test it tonight, but either way super impressed with their responsiveness.

The people that run FORScan are pretty awesome. I reached out to them since I couldn't figure out how to program in the camera and they sent me a PM requesting info so they can look into adding the feature to the program. May not work but at least they are responsive and are working on improving it. I will keep this thread posted with how things proceed.

I will check my invoice from the last time it was replaced but I recall the dealer saying it was an updated part, but he could have been BSing me. So if I did get the updated one, so much for it being better. By the way thanks for the links to aftermarket parts. For me though I will stick with the reed switch work around which will cost almost nothing and be significantly easier to do.

Does anyone have a list of what the BCM lines are for? What I mean is what is coded in line BCM 726-01-01 or 726-02-01. I have the as built data from Ford but we had the dealer install a remote start so I am sure they had to change entries here. So I don't want to blindly change a setting and deactivate my remote start. Anyone have any ideas on how to program this camera in?

All of the "fixes" are temporary at best. But truth is so is replacement of the lock assembly. It will fail again because it is a crappy design. When I get time and get the parts assembled I will be doing the other switch in parallel to fix this for good.

Unfortunately this is a common problem. I have had my latch replaced before and it came back. I think Ford just has a faulty design and unfortunately they won't do anything for you unless you are under warranty. Repair cost is fairly high, around 500 so some here have come up with alternate fixes with a switch in parallel. Doo a search on reed switch and you should find a video showing the set up.

Ugh...I can't seem to catch a break. That XP machine I have is doa so I don't think I will get this done soon.

As mentioned above most just do repeated changes till the fluid thins out. But since I just took a look at mine this weekend I have a couple of questions. The drain plug takes a 1/2" square drive from a ratchet right? I couldn't get mine in, maybe it had something to do with the socket retention. Last, what did you use to suck out the fluid?

Thanks. I watched your videos lastnight. If I do just the rears now with KYB do you think the rear will feel too unsettled since it is stiffer dampening plus the front has almost 80k?

Not sure what it adds, I removed it when installing the full version. But I will say it does appear to give you access to a lot more readings than torque. This may or may not be necessary but for $4 it is cheap and good to help support future upgrades. One thing that is definitely nice over torque is ability to see all subsystems. Besides the camera it showed a TPMS fault which I assume is from switching wheels to all seasons. The strange thing is the light wasn't on the dash. So when I have some more time I may play. Also realised I have an old laptop with XP and a serial OBD cable so I need to check and see if that works.

Well wasn't sure if the app would allow programming but noticed it was only $4.61 so I just bought it. Well it doesn't seem to work or at least I can seem to figure it out. So I guess I need to get a USB OBDII adapter since I can't get BT to work on W10.

So got under my wife's truck to see what I needed to change the PTU fluid and saw the shock was blown. Typically in the past I have done all four at the same time but since it is just the one I am really tempted to just do the two rear shocks...thoughts? Suggestions on replacements? Seems like Ford version got almost 80k which is kind of weak and some here liked the kyb's but wondering how they feel compared to Ford.

If the struts are for sale can you confirm tbe part numbers? Seems to be quite a few Ford offerings.

Well first try failed. I downloaded the windows beta to my laptop but apparently I lost bluetooth when I upgraded to W10. So I downloaded the demo to my phone and was able to confirm it saw the problem with rear cam and apparently our TPMS sensors. Now I just have to find out if the full android version will let me reprogram the rear cam.

Thanks. I downloaded the windows version to test it and see if I can program the stupid rear camera BCM or whatever it is. Hope this is intuitive enough to get this done. Either way I will report back with what I find.

Can anyone recommend a good programmer for Ford at a reasonable price? In the VAG community there is the Ross Tech VAGCOM software that lets you use full dealer diagnostics and do reprogramming. I have a USB dongle to pull codes but would like to get something more comprehensive plus I would like to be able to reprogram things like the new rear camera I put in. I have found some for sale that are a couple hundred and say they include IDS software but I can't find reviews and full Ford systems are several times more expensive. Does anyone have one they would recommend? Also is there a network of people that have these like there is for the VAGCOM? Works out nice for people to help support the community/partially subsidize the the scan tool.

That filter is a mystery. I think when I looked up the part number it said a trans filter but not for the Edge.

Power steering....check out my thread here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17614-can-someone-help-diagnose-this-leak/?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bsteering+%2Bleak Had a similar leak and eventually got a dealership to replace the lines rather than just the banjo bolt that they did several times before.