wlepse

I think it was like 300 per line...had high pressure line and return line done. Since other dealer never fixed it right Ford split the bill.

What year is your Edge? That doesn't look like mine, I just had mine off to install a hitch wiring kit. There shouldn't be butt splices in there, which makes me think someone tried to hook up a wiring kit themselves. Maybe check etrailer.com; they have step by step instructions with pics and video for these wiring kits. Maybe that can point out what is different between what you have and what you should have.

Do yourself a favor and look at your exhaust cans before you buy anything. Initially I bought the Hidden Hitch and aesthetically it does look good. The only part you see is the receiver. But since my exhaust cans were different than the ones shown in the videos(when purchased) it didn't fit quite right. You can bolt it up just fine and everything clears but just barely. So when you drive and the exhaust sways a little it hits. Didn't happen all that much but too much for me. So in the end get under there and check if the cans are stamped or rolled. Mine are rolled, so the width of the can is the same from top to bottom. This is what causes the interference. The stamped cans have a taper and should clear just fine. I have seen videos of the Hidden Hitch installed on a vehicle with rolled cans but I don't know if they didn't care about the banging or if this hitch has been slightly revised due to complaints. I should also add I did try to put a rubber bumper on the hitch to soften the blow, it worked but it still bothered me.

Steve...thanks for the great deal and fast shipping. Item as described...definitely a trustworthy seller for anyone considering a purchase.

+1 If your wife has an Android phone I would check out one of the BT OBDII devices. Pair it with your phone and use the free Torque app. This way as soon as she sees the CEL she can read it and not worry about it clearing. I keep one in every vehicle now since they are so cheap. While I have no experience with this issue, I do seem to remember some people having issues with their throttle bodies. So maybe do a search on that and see if the symptoms are the same. Not that I would go out and buy one but at least it might give you a point of reference.

Back to my other question..does anyone know what activates the rear cam? Like I mentioned mine has stayed on a couple times in drive so I suspect a switch in my shifter is going.

Nice idea on slotting the end of the screw. I will have to double check mine to see if there is any projection from the plastic. I don't recall there being any but I wouldn't need much. I had started to pop that black plastic piece off where the lights are mounted then chickened out. The clips seemed too fragile and the painted part seemed to deform. Since I didn't want that piece falling out one day I will definitely try your method. Let us know how it goes with the camera. In a few places where I saw two cameras listed they both had the same P/N but one clearly says to a certain build date. Not sure why the part numbers are the same.

Well I was all set to replace this on my own then today the camera started a new weird behavior. The truck was backed into the garage so I went straight from park into drive. To my surprise the display was showing the cam, so I double checked and confirmed it was in drive. I pulled out and stopped for the garage door to close. Started to drive and still had cam on display. The only way I was able to get it off was to put it in park and back to drive. Thought it was a fluke but happened two more times. So in addition to a camera problem could I have a bad switch in the shifter? Anyone know what contact enables the cam?

Yeah not sure what to make of it. In the picture below it shows 433MHz fit a 2011 but going to TireRack it says 315MHz. I did go to the Ford ETIS site you linked and saw the 315 for th doors too. Since most of what I am finding says 315MHz I am leaning towards that be ing the right right one. I will send you a PM. As a side note; has anyone checked the vehicle summary under software? Doesn't seem like this site is up to date. Only one of the modules (APIM) shows any activity after we purchased it. SO either none of the work they said they have done was done or somehow their systems aren't linked very well. I am leaning towards the later since everytime I logged into the Sync site it wanted me to update mileage like it never got updates from services.

I am interested in the TPMS...just need to confirm they will work in my Edge. My initial searches of those part numbers seem to indicate they would be good but it also mentions 315MHz as the operating frequency. But when I went to Levittown's site to compare P/N's they have different numbers, then to further complicate things it has two listed. One references 433MHz the other doesn't say. Opening either one says they fit my 2011 at the top but then below the 433 only works on '13 & '14 Edges. WTH?

Yeah thanks...she is doing better. Still not 100% but I think she will start PT soon and we hope that will make a big difference. Not sure on JOEHIO...thought he was using a dealer in Maplecrest maybe??? But pretty sure he has a Lincoln and goes to a Lincoln dealer. Either way just wanted to give props to Beyer and Wayne. Hopefully I won't need a lot of work but at least now I have a place I can trust and makes me more comfortable about holding onto the Edge.

Are the TPMS new and unused? Just wondering if they will need a rebuild kit or not.

Finally getting a chance to update this thread. Between dealing with my wife’s injuries and insurance the last few weeks have been pretty busy. Plus the original dealership was of absolutely no help. I won’t mention their name but suffice it to say I will never be going back there, even though they are like 2 miles from my house. Basically I dropped the vehicle off with all the concerns detailed in the service ticket and it was also sent to service manager and Ford corp rep via email. I got a call later detailing what they found. According to them there could not duplicate the clunk. Rear diff was leaking so they removed excess fluid and wiped down bell housing. Then they informed me that the high pressure line on the power steering was leaking and said it would cost like $350 to fix. So first thing I asked is why fluid would come out of the diff. They said because it was overfilled. But the problem with that explanation is no one has touched the fluid level, it is the factory fill. So I told them I had a tough time believing it took 59k miles to realize it was overfilled. I realized this argument was going nowhere, so I dropped it figuring I would discuss it with the Ford rep. Next issue was the power steering line; first I asked why it wouldn’t be covered since this power steering line was likely the problem from the beginning. At that point the service advisor said he would talk to the service manager and get back to me. I got a call from the service manager and much to my surprise he wouldn’t even discuss the issue. All he said was “we don’t want your damn money or business.” I didn’t even know how to respond so I simply said “excuse me?” The last thing he said was “come pick up your truck” and he hung up. So obviously I did. Then I contacted my Ford corp rep and explained what had just happened and why I felt like they didn’t properly diagnose my problems. At which point he said he would be happy to work with me at another dealer but he couldn’t make them do anything since they are an independent franchise. While I realize this is the case; doesn’t Ford see what this does to their reputation? Luckily I live in a heavily populated area with plenty of dealers, but for some areas this may be the only representation Ford has, and if they can’t do something about behavior like this I am not sure how that can work as a business model. What really pissed me off was a couple days later I had to do an oil change on my other car and out of habit I checked the Edge. Well the coolant level they say they reset was at the exact same level and the oil change they performed was a half qt low. This just added to my mistrust of this dealer, their ability to troubleshoot issues and their workmanship. Anyway, a couple weeks later I decided to give Beyer Ford in Morristown NJ a shot since the online reviews were favorable and it was the most convenient 4+ star rated dealer. Immediately on the first call it was clear this place is different. I spoke with Wayne Jennings who was super nice…and at this point they had no idea Ford corp was involved. I dropped off the vehicle, Wayne confirmed everything they were going to look at and said they would call me later to advise. Sure enough he called back, to tell me there was a TSB that applies for the clunk and that they would take care of it under warranty. Next, there is a TSB for the rear diff but he can’t perform it since the bell housing is wiped clean and there has to be a sign of a leak. I told him the other dealer wiped it down but I would speak with the Ford rep to see if they could get it applied since I had photos of the leak and my powertrain will expire prior to it getting cold again. He then told me that (2) power steering lines were leaking, which made more sense since I saw fluid on both sides of the drive shaft on two different lines. He quoted a price and I told him I would talk to the rep. In the end the Ford rep was able to get the TSB applied for the rear diff and worked with us on the repair price of the power steering lines. Obviously I would have loved to have the whole thing covered especially since I am sure the other dealer never fixed this correctly, but the truth is I can’t prove these were always leaking. So in the end I think it was fair. But what amazed me was how this dealer was able to clearly identify that (2) separate TSB’s applied to my concerns where the other dealer found nothing. How can that be? I thought a VIN search would reveal this stuff. In the end I walked away very pleased with Beyer Ford, Wayne Jennings and Ford corp. So if you are in the area and need a good place to take a look at your Ford give Beyer a shot. It might not be the most updated Ford dealer you will see but the service and communication were among the best I have had. In the end that is what really matters. Hopefully all of this is behind us now. Still have to fix the reverse cam but I will get to that eventually.

If you find a solution please post it...this drives me crazy too.

Thanks, she is really sore and they want her to see a spine specialist just to be double check things since she gets nauseous if she stands up. Anyway, since she can't drive we figured this is the best time to get it in. So I was able to get some family to pick me up at the dealer. Now that we don't have a third vehicle we really need to get this sorted out.

Txs...but this is all going to have to wait. Wife had an accident today and we are still in the ER so dont have the time to deal with this right now.

No doubt a pressure test is easy enough to complete...I guess that is part of the reason I am a bit pissed. Seems like with the drivetrain leaks they could do a quick courtesy test just to verify the head gasket is OK. As for checking the level...to be honest I didn't. But with that said I didn't check it after it was in for service either. Part of me wonders if it was even topped off to begin with. Still I shouldn't be losing fluid whether the interval was 6k or 10k.

I have a tough time believing it is the camera. It is a pretty simple device and I think all it gets is power and it outputs over a composite cable. So one would think the power is constantly cycling on and off to the device so even if there is some board in there that is messed up the behavior would be independant of other systems. What I mean by that is rebooting the MFT should have no effect on its performance but I can get it to work again temporarily by rebooting or resetting the system...or when I did a software update. Can anyone confirm the functionality of the A/v input in the console though? Like I said I get sound but no video so I am wondering if the part of the APIM that control the analog inputs is flaky. Hoping to get a chance tonight to pull the rear hatch cover off and input a signal over that cable to confirm the cable/APIM.

I am really not sure how to read this...not sure if the dealer is on the defensive or if they have their back against the wall because corporate isn't willing to authorize two simple diagnostic tests. One of which is for a known problem part. Just so frustrating, have never had an ownership experience like this. Never had issues with Honda, Acura, Nissan, Toyota, Audi or Subaru. Bring it in under warranty they look at it and fix it or tell you why the problem isn't covered. And even then there is wiggle room.

It isn’t the amount of the diagnostic fee I take exception to; it is the reason for it. The drivetrain clunks and leaking rear diff should be covered under powertrain warranty. The leaking filter/banjo bolt should be covered either under powertrain warranty or bumper to bumper. Even though I am past 36K, we brought the vehicle to the same dealer complaining of a groan in the power steering. This was at 35k miles and was the first time they replaced the banjo bolt. Then they did it again but it is still leaking. So it seems to me like this banjo bolt is a band aid fix which only temporarily solves the leak. The APIM is a known trouble part and I would think as a courtesy they could authorize testing it. Especially since I just tested the A/V input in the console and that doesn’t work either. Not to mention I have shown that rebooting the system can temporarily fix things…so I am concerned that they could do something similar but not really fix it like the banjo bolt leak. The coolant…well if they won’t do a 10 minute pressure test I can do it at work one day at lunch. But yes, to your point, if the work is warrantied there would be no diagnostic fee. As for the suggestion to give them more manageable things to address…I agree that would be preferable but my powertrain is about to run out and I was hoping that having a Ford corporate rep working on this would make it go smoothly. Obviously this is not the case.

Has anyone ever used the A/V inputs in the console? I think I used it once when we first got the truck but found it to be useless so I don't remember how it is supposed to work. The reason I ask is my belief is the APIM is acting up so I tried this connection figuring it would utilize the same part of the board...so if one doesn't work the other might not either. Well plugged in a know good device (tested before and after) and I can get audio but no video when I select A/V input. Vehicle wasn't running, so obviously it was in park. Is there any other interlock? Next step to troubleshoot will be to pull the rear hatch cover off and get at composite video connector and test from there. Just sucks I have to do this rather than Ford stepping up and testing the APIM.

Back to dissapointment...dealer won't look at camera without paying diagnostic fee...Ford rep won't authorize testing of APIM either. Back to thinking about getting rid of this truck. Just so frustrating to deal with this and the lack of support.

Ugh...here we go again. Was contacted by Ford rep and was told to set up service which I did. I sent him a bunch of info on what I found and what I was concerned about besides the tranny issues, one of which is the low coolant noted above and the other was my reverse cam which was discussed in a nother thread. Then I got a call from the dealer...back to the same game of needing to pay for a diagnostic fee to have them look at these issues. I believe the issue is more with the reverse cam and coolant but I am not 100% sure. So I contacted my Ford rep and was basically told they won't do the tests as a courtesy, I have to pay for the diagnostics unless the issue is a warranty issue. Basically I am asking them to do the following; besides checking out these tranny leaks. 1) Since the coolant is significantly below the low mark and they claim to have topped this off about 6k ago I requested a pressure test. Basically I just want to rule out a head gasket issue. Should be a quick test. 2) The reverse cam issue seems like the APIM is gone wonky again. I think we have had it replaced 2 or 3 times already. All I requested is that they test the APIM since it is still covered under warranty. Seems like these are simple enough tests and requests that they could do this as a courtesy...especially given that the APIM is a known problem. Just not happy with Ford or their service at this point. I have never had this many issues with a vehicle nor had a dealer/mfg be so difficult.

Looks pretty nice. Another alternative to this if you have an android phone or tablet is Torque. I picked up a Bluetooth OBDII dongle a few years ago and now have them in all my cars. They are cheap and if you pair it with the Torque app you can see a ton of sensors on the car as well as read and clear CEL. Originally I got one since I had a car with over 100k and one day coming home from work I got a CEL. Problem was I was still 20 miles from home. So I did the prudent thing and shut it down. Found out later when I got my code reader it was just a misfire and I could have driven it home. So now I have one in every ride, if something comes up I can tell immediately if I should be towing it or I can worry about it when I get home. Really is great piece of mind. There is a free version and paid. Originally I just used the free version but since it has been so useful I just paid for the full app. To be honest I didn't gain much functionality but I still think it is well worth the cost. For more info check it out here: http://torque-bhp.com

Yeah...I set up a service visit for next week and plan on putting together a document with all the pictures and concerns I have. This weekend I hope to take a closer look at things and double check fluid levels on power steering and tranny.