shumax

Wow. That's a lot of effort on your part! Mine hasn't gotten that bad; though, it only has 37k on it. So, I'm behind you a good bit. It's also on it's second engine due to the burning oil issue from the cylinder heads. So, while happy that issue sorted well, I'm uneasy about it all, frankly. Did they get everything back together correctly? It seems fine, but who really knows. That's why I bought the extended warranty. When that baby expires, the vehicle will no longer live in my garage. I'm going to keep a closer eye on it and report back what I notice. My wife wouldn't notice if a wheel were missing. Shumax

You know? I've not paid that much attention. It's my wife's vehicle; I might drive it once a month. But, I do admit I top the tank off. Will stop that and then pay attention. Appreciate the tip!

I gave up. Took it in twice and it would never replicate. It's coming and going so it's hard to land. I have the extended warranty, so I'm not going to fuss with it too much. You having the issue?

I, unfortunately, just did this on my 2016 Sport. It's not bad, once you free it from the carrier bearing. Use a long pry bar and, carefully, push it out from the carrier bearing it's it's home free from there. Literally should take less than 30min. if you have the correct tools. Shumax

Guys, I'm 100% sure it's a bad tire. That was the point of my post - to share with others' that, sometimes, it's the simple things. All the equipment, sensors, etc. in the World can't replace common sense. After chasing that around for several months, I fell in the trap of not considering something obvious like a bad tire. Have a good one! Shumax

Let me take you down a path here, in hopes it helps others. My 2016 Sport, with 32k, was shaking from 45-60mph. I could physically see the steering wheel shake back and forth. At higher speeds, it was almost something I could not detect unless I focused on it. Follow me on this journey... I have a Hunter Road Force Balancer in my garage. Yes, I'm real tuned into this. Stay here with me on it - it's worth it. A normal balancer measures static and dynamic imbalance - the side to side wobble as a tire rolls down the road. The Road Force machine measures the up and down "bounce" of a tire going down the road. As you balance a tire, it simply MUST be centered on the balancer. If it's not, it won't roll smooth down the road. Think about it - you can 'balance' an egg, but it won't roll down the road smoothly. Let that process. So, you MUST find a shop that will perform a centering check (every Hunter machine has that option) to be sure the assembly is centered on the balancer. From there? Anything over 10lbs of roadforce, on a passenger tire, you are going to feel. It won't shimmy the steering wheel back and forth, but it will produce a 'hop' going down the road. Let's say you've gotten all of that sorted - static/dynamic balance is good and the road force figures are 10lbs, or below? But, you still have a shimmy at that speed range? Is the wheel centered on the hub? If OEM, it's almost certain, but check for rust build up on the hub and sand it off, if there. If not OEM, be sure you have centering rings that are the correct size. If it's still there, are the control arm bushings in good shape? No cracks, etc.? Ball joints tight? You are sure, right? Are the axles in good shape? If all of the above checks out? Enter where I was today? After a set of tires about 5,000 miles ago, I've been chasing this since then. Ridiculous. Replaced two rear tires as they had higher road force figures. But, my shimmy from 45-60 continued. Finally swapped front tires to the back and the shimmy went away. This, despite the fact the front tires balanced perfectly, with low weight, and also had very low road force figures - under 8 lbs. You know what it had to be? A slipped belt in the tire. Nothing you can see to the eye, or see on a machine. However, when you rule all of the rest out? That's all that's left. As much as I know about tires, axles, control arm bushings, etc., it stumped me - even with the machine in my garage. I share this as I know some people chase this and it can drive you nuts. Don't rule out the tires - even if they balance and road force well. Move them around the car and see if things change. Shumax

I'm not sure what to make of this other than to go with my gut. When I got the alignment sheet from my dealer, something didn't seem right to me. The car tracked down the road fine. Even looking at the wheels, they did not look cambered in/out. I appreciate that's a rough way to look at things, but I do have an eye for it. I didn't notice anything appreciable. Further, the machine at my dealership is likely as old as I am The one at Firestone is just a handful of years old, is a recessed machine and cost nearly $100k, I was told. It's state of the art, as best I can tell. Given that, the readings at Firestone were fine for Camber. The toe was out ever so slightly on that tie rod in the front the dealer said the jam nut was loose on. Just a bit, though. We adjusted that and everything else was perfect. Steer ahead is now 0.00 in the front; thrust angle is -0.01 in the rear. I won't get down on my dealer, though. Things happen and I give them a lot of credit for helping me easily get the engine replaced on the vehicle - had the smoking issue. All has been fine with it since. May just avoid them for future alignments... On to replace the brakes next... Shumax

All new rotors, front and rear. Should not be an issue as a result...I hope!

Thank you! I notice the steering wheels wobble, and I can feel the pulsation, when slowing from higher speeds. Been down this path before and it was either warped rotors or material build up, from the pads, but n the rotors. Regardless, replacing the rotors seems a better route than turning them. Just not sure which brand to buy - that will LAST. On the rear? The rotors are in bad shape, as I mentioned. Pads are less than half. I feel a slight pulsation in the pedal but it’s very faint. Looks like pads and rotors in the rear. Rotors, only, in the front. Just comes down to what the best product is for daily driving that will last, be quiet and low dust. Sign me up for those! So, what is that combo? Shumax Went this route - attached. Got a 20% off coupon, so it was about $300, shipped, including some stop quiet and slide pin lube. Attack it in a couple of weekends. Thanks again to everyone! Shumax

Spent time this morning looking around... Carquest Platinum painted rotors with a 2 year warranty - front and back. Wagner thermoquiet ceramic disc brake pad set with limited lifetime warranty. $322.12 for the above, shipped to my home. Research seems to suggest those are quality parts. Any thoughts?

Thank you! I notice the steering wheels wobble, and I can feel the pulsation, when slowing from higher speeds. Been down this path before and it was either warped rotors or material build up, from the pads, but n the rotors. Regardless, replacing the rotors seems a better route than turning them. Just not sure which brand to buy - that will LAST. On the rear? The rotors are in bad shape, as I mentioned. Pads are less than half. I feel a slight pulsation in the pedal but it’s very faint. Looks like pads and rotors in the rear. Rotors, only, in the front. Just comes down to what the best product is for daily driving that will last, be quiet and low dust. Sign me up for those! So, what is that combo? Shumax

Well, I stand corrected. The rear pads are over half worn and the groves back there are from the pad not hitting the rotor surface - in other words, run your finger nail over that area and it’s raised, not groved. Sounds like rotors and pads in the rear for sure. front rotors are smooth to the touch. The pads have a ton of material left. conflicted on what to do from here...

2016 Sport. Used as a daily by my wife. Looking for suggestions on front and rear rotors. I get a pulsation in the pedal and wheel when slowing. The rears are groved quite a bit already, too. 31,000 miles. Considered turning them but not sure it’s worth it when new rotors seem to be about $70/rotor. Would hate to spend half that to have them warp again in a year and have to buy new rotors. Assume it’s ok to sand the pads a bit and reuse? The pads have plenty of life left on all four corners. Thanks! Shumax

Never in an accident. This vehicle had the engine replaced, under warranty, for the leaking valve seals. So, I can see how the subframe alignment issue could come into play. But! It’s had two alignments at a Firestone - that has a state of the art alignment machine - and all has been well in the past. Just minor adjustments. So, I wonder if this dealers machine is “off?” The vehicle does not pull and goes down the road straight. That further supports my theory on this shops machine. I am friends with the folks at the Firestone and am going there next Sunday to dig into it more and see what’s up. Shumax

My 2016 Edge Sport was in for an alignment. 31,000 miles. Dealer confirmed nothing was bent. This was the “best they could do” with the alignment and told me they can’t adjust the camber and it’s off by nearly two degrees on the left front. Something seems off to me. Am I off base?

They did indicate it (strut mount) would have been covered, subject to my deductible.

Slow part of the forum here, I guess. As an update, this ended up being a loose jam nut on the right front tie rod. I have no idea how that happened - it was 3 turns loose - yikes! The dealer tightened it and performed an alignment as it was out quite a bit. Noise is gone now...!

The issue on mine ended up being a loose jam nut on the tie rod. No clue how it came loose, but it was 3 turns loose - yikes. Tightened that up, aligned it, and the noise is gone.

I drove it again, to the dealer, and never got it to do it again. They drove it and said they couldn't, either. Mentioned there were no codes stored on it, either. So, nothing has been done to it. They tried to tell me it could be the start of a bad MAF, etc. I like this dealer a lot, so I think they were just trying to give me "something" to go with. Regardless, it didn't do it the entire way home and my wife said it was fine yesterday as she drove it. So, I think I'll let it be until it comes back and gets worse...?

I just noticed it today, for the first time; though, I don't drive the car much - it's my wife's. She mentioned she's not noticed it. I took it for another drive this evening and it didn't do it. So, I'm not sure what to make of it now.

2.7 Ecoboost (31k) with engine replaced due to oil consumption about 8-10k ago. At highways speeds - above 65mph, in top gear, it is stumbling and missing. No CEL. You can see the tach jump up and down about 3-400rpm as it happens and the car shakes, too. I always run top tier 93 octane in it, so that's not the issue, either. Anyone have any experience with this? It's going into the dealership Thursday for a suspension clunk, too, so will have them sort this then. Just looking to see what others' may have experienced. Thanks, Shumax

Here's an update.... Took it to the dealer today and the tech road with me and said he heard, and FELT, the noise/condition. Said he didn't think it was a strut mount; sounded too "low" down to be that. Thought it could be the steering rack. I've had two of those replaced on Explorer's before. $$$. Thank goodness for the extended warranty. It goes back in, in a few weeks to let them dig into it. On my drive there, I also then noticed a humming sound in the front left around 50-60mph. I could feel some roughness in the steering wheel, too. Sounds like a wheel bearing, but it didn't change pitch as I rocked the steering wheel back and forth. Anyone have experience with these on this vintage? I'll have them look at that, too, while it's in for the suspension noise... Shumax

2016 Ford Edge Sport with 31,500. I've noticed a strange humming noise at about 50-60mph on the front left sized. Sounds like a groan and I can feel it in the steering wheel, too. Does NOT change if I move the steering wheel side to side, though. Anyone have any experience with these on this vintage? Thanks, Shumax

Can anyone tell me how to orient the new mount? That yellow dot means something - it's been a while since I've done these. I know that means something; just can't remember what/where that needs to line up. Also, anyone have suggestions on a spring compressor other than the ones you can use from AutoZone? Those babies are scary... Thanks again, Shumax