shumax

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I grew up in an era when Uniden made TERRIBLE radar detectors. Sans the RD9XL, they were worthless. Fast forward through many V1s, Escort - 4600, 5000, 8500, 8500 X50, Redline, etc. and I now have a custom swept V1 and the R3. The R3 is incredible. Escort is in trouble for sure. The way Uniden reacts to their customer with downloable updates is incredible. Escort cant get out of their own way in this space. My V1 is good, but the R3 does edge is out on off axis KA. Definitely worth the coin for the R3!?

As a follow-up to this... The wires in that video are not the same colors as mine. So, while I follow what he's doing, it didn't help since I was trying to determine which was hot and ground. I ended up bailing on the mirror tap. I bought a micro 2 add a circuit. Unfortunately it didn't fit the fuse box. What I mean is this - the black portion of that connector - that holds the two fuses - was too fat to fit in the fuse socket. The fuse was the right size. That black "dongle" was just too fat. I filed it down on both sides and got it to fit, but what a pain. With that installed, I did the usual snaking of the wire up the pillar, behind the airbag and over by the RVM. Plugged it into my new Uniden R3 and life was good. Very happy with it. Thanks again for the input, all! Shumax

Good call! When I get the clean on it, I will. They are nice!

Bought these and love them - thanks for the suggestion!

Check to see if your model has those baffles underneath like mine. If so, its possible you have the same issue...

Appears the blue wire is hot. I get 11.60 volts when the car is on and nearly zero when its off. How do I determine the ground? Thinking its probably the black wire with the white strip. Thoughts? Also, how do you remove the area that houses the sunroof controls/sunglasses holder, etc? Am sure I would find a bolt up in there to ground to if not. Thanks! Shumax

Does anyone know which wires I need to tap into on the rear view mirror to get the power and ground on a 2016 Sport? I'm trying to tap into those to install a direct wire kit for my RD. Thanks!!

Just not sure what to do. Surprised they have not yet called me. Hopefully they agree to take it back, but how does it get there? They come get it, or I drive it back and fly home? What an ordeal.

Just not sure what to do. Surprised they have not yet called me. Hopefully they agree to take it back, but how does it get there? They come get it, or I drive it back and fly home? What an ordeal.

So, I just picked up my 2016 Sport on Saturday. Drove it 10 hours home. Had a couple of issues - low tire pressure and then some flapping on the underside. Took it to my local dealer today and they said the panels on the drivers and passengers side, underneath, are loose and need to be replaced. They ordered them and it will be handled in a few days. While there, I asked them to pull the Oasis report on the vehicle. They did and, what follows, shocked me: The vehicle has 12,000 miles on it. Around 7,000 miles, the prior owner brought it in because the oil light came on. This showed up on the Carfax and I questioned it. When I questioned it, the selling dealer called the local Ford dealer and told them it was because it wasn't reset when the oil was changed. I moved on. Well, as I learn today, at 7,000 miles, that light came on and the car was 4.5 quarts low in oil! They filled it and put the prior owner back on the road. At 9,000 miles, the CEL came on and it was verified - DTC S, P0304, etc. was found. Fouled plug in cylinder 4, oil consumption and smoke. They removed the engine and transaxle, etc. They replaced the two cylinder heads and a bunch of gaskets on the cylinder head and turbo's. Put it back together and put them on their way. 2,000 miles later, the prior owner came in for the same rattle noise I heard. The dealer put silicone on that baffle and sent the prior owner on their way. So, none of this was disclosed by the dealer that sold me the car. The dealer is not a Ford dealer, FYI. When I saw the Carfax, I noticed the remark about the oil light. As I mentioned above, they called the Ford dealer that's affiliated with their dealership - it's a large dealer. They tell them the light was on because it wasn't reset when the oil was changed. Feeling comfortable with that, I let it be. So, here I sit. Sort of stunned by it. I have 2 years and 24k left on the OEM warranty. I purchased the car 10 hours away. I talked to my sales rep today and calmly explained the situation. They said they would have to have a sales manager call me. So, I'm waiting on that call. I'm not sure what to do. During the process, I put a minor amount down on the car. They said that was a deposit and I could have it back if not satisfied. They also had me sign a credit app in case I defaulted on the wire transfer. I have not paid for the car and I do have the title. I was to wire the money today, but they knew I had concerns with the rattling/tire pressure issues Saturday, so they knew it would be delayed. Do I keep the car and see how it goes given it's still under warranty? It's been 3,000 miles since that engine repair - oil level is fine and I drove it 600 miles home with no real issues. Do I push to return it? Do I ask them to buy me an extended warranty? Do I drive it a year and see what happens; if there are issues, get rid of it? I've not been in this spot before and, frankly, felt like I vetted the purchase very well. Looking for some guidance. Thanks! Shumax

Not a lot of traffic on this, but thought I would post an update. I crawled under today and looked it over really good. Turns out, the two baffles on the drivers and passengers side were loose. Following the "fluttering noise from undercarriage and dashboard rattle" post from CCMAYES72, I was able to quiet it down considerably - almost to the point it's gone. Going to make an appointment with Ford and see if I can get them replaced under warranty given the car only has 12k on it. Sorry, I tried to copy and past the link to that post but it won't let me... Shumax

Thank you so much! Can't tell you how much I appreciate the reply. I climbed under the car and looked and sure enough, both of those panels rattled in mine with the smallest touch with my finger tips. From 10 years ago, I had some sound deadening material that is like sheets of rubber. I cut small strips and wedged them in between the clips and the splash shield. It made for a snug fit for all but one that was really loose. Took it for a drive and the noise is gone! On my trip back, I heard it once, but it was very faint. I'm surprised they don't just sell the clips. That's no good. My vehicle has 12,000 miles on it, so I'm making an appointment tomorrow to get it looked at and replaced. Thanks again for posting all of this. Really calmed my nerves on a car I just bought, used, yesterday. Shumax

Could you provide photos of the solution you came up with to resolve this issue? Thanks!

Interesting you say that. Now Home, I crawled under there to look. On the sides, right behind each front wheel, where that shield mounts to the unibody - someone cut the shield. I think they couldnt get the fastener removed, so they cut that shield close to the fastener - on both sides. I am trying to figure out why they would have done that - both sides are cut - driver and passenger. Also, why they would have removed that shielding in the first place. Seems odd to me. Thoughts? I looked at the cut area and it does flap around now. I would imagine if wind got up in there, it would cause it to flutter some. Car drives straight, is smooth and pulls hard. Got 25.6mpg on the 10 hour trip. Like the car, but that issue concerns me. I will make an appointment at Ford on Monday. Wonder what that shield costs? Looks like a big shield! Shumax

To build on this, I listened more and might be low and down in the footwell - both sides. Seems like the wind is hitting something just right and causing it to flutter.

Just picked up my 2016 Sport with 12k on it. No accidents - its mint. At highway speeds - about 60mph, I get some rattling and wind noise on the passenger and drivers side by the pillar/windshield. I stopped and bought packing tape and sealed the joint between the pillar and windshield. Helped some but not gone. Sounds like wind noise with some light ticking thats impacted by the wind hitting the car. It also sounds down low on the passengers side - almost under the car. Very annoying!!! I am almost home from my 10 hour trip back and admit this soured the experience. Driving me nuts. Thoughts? Thanks! Shumax

Seems like the consensus is these are the best option?? Thanks!

My WT's in my Explorer Sport warped in the back. Their solution was to put them in the sun with a cinder block on them to iron them out. Ummm, ok. I did that to see and it came back. Went back and forth on it 100 times and they basically stopped working with me on it. Never again...

IF these are still available, I'm interested. Thanks!

Well, that didn't take long - see post about potential 2015 purchase. I found a red 2016 Sport AWD with the 401A package and moonroof. Has 12,000 miles on it; had the airbag recall completed and was just detailed, inside and out. No accidents, or paintwork and the Carfax was clean. Got it for $31,488 before tax, but with the fees, etc. Seemed like a great deal to me given what I saw in the area. I have to fly out and drive it home, but that's fine. Now it's time to find mats for the inside. Had a bad experience with Weathertech, so I won't give them my business. Maybe Husky? Thoughts? Thanks again for the guidance! Shumax

Well, I vetted that list and came up with nothing, unfortunately. From vehicles with hail damage to a few that had the wrong wheels - 21's won't do well on Ohio's roads. I've been down that path with large rims - never again. Have to keep an eye on it, I guess. We did decide that the 2016 is the way to go. We get the new Sync and I like the idea of being away from the early 2015's that may have had issues with water leaks and the oil pan, etc. Shumax

Agree! I just now need to find one that makes sense.

Thanks. We are fortunate to be healthy savers. We would pay cash for the used 2016. So, show me those. Many are "bait" off a finance scheme that allows me to participate at $33k. If I can pay cash for it - 401A, AWD, etc., I am in. Likely is the case I am naive, but I was told today some Sports are FWD. I have not had the chance to research - is that true? Thanks again! Shumax.

Point me to where on that 2016 with the 401k for 32k. I assume you mean used, correct? Not finding ANY new 2016's at this point. My wife now says pearl white, black or red (in that order) will work. So I now have some serious flexibility. I would much prefer a 2016 for the reasons mentioned. I'm in 44691, but I don't mind driving if it makes sense. I'm not driving 1,000 miles for one, but you get the point... Very aware of the PTU - have it on my 2014 Explorer Sport and we flushed it twice on the Edge. Definitely an item to watch carefully! Shumax