shumax

Thanks again. I did read it - just says struts, not mounts/strut bearings. Parts seems to be $80 from Rockauto. If not for removal of the cowling, it appears easy enough I would do it myself as my deductible on that warranty is $200. still waiting to hear back from the service department at my dealer...

Wonderful. Thanks again! We purchased the extended care warranty from Ford on this vehicle. Any sense for whether or not this type of repair will be covered by the warranty? I have a call into the dealership, but have not heard back. Thanks again for all of the assistance. Have a great weekend!

This is wonderful - thank you! What's missing? How do you get to the third nut on top of the strut, in the engine bay? I fear that answer is removing the cowling in there which appears to be laborious. Any insight on that? Thanks again for the help and prompt reply!

Anyone have instructions on HOW to replace the strut mounts on a 2016?

Our 2016 Sport has 31,500 miles on it. At slower, parking lot speeds, there is something loose in the front end, down low. Sort of a clunking noise as you go over uneven pavement at lower speeds, especially - 10-20mph. Just doesn't feel "tight" if that makes sense? I've been down this path before and it was sway bar links. I checked those out and they seem tight on both sides. So do the tie rod ends. I looked at the control arm bushings and they appear good, too. Hard for me to believe something is "worn" with that few miles. Would be more like a failure than being worn out. I do have the Premium Care Extended Warranty from Ford. I'm not sure if suspension components are covered - need to read into that. Anyone know? Has anyone had experience with this issue? Thank you, Shumax

It’s a stock system - all OEM. Sounds like there is no way to adjust sensitivity, correct? May have to go to the dealer and show them...

2019 Edge SE. Stock alarm system. The alarm is very sensitive - having a basketball hit the car sets it off. Not from dropping the ball from 10'; rather, in the drive and the kids lose control of it and it bumps into the car. Also, if someone gets too close to it, it will sound. Is there a way to adjust the sensitivity, or am I off to the dealer to have them look at it? Thanks! Shumax

I ended up with 255/50/20 Bridgestone Ecopia 422 Plus. Had them on an Explorer and liked them. They balanced down to real low (single digit) roadforce figures. They are very smooth. Happy with the purchase!

Hey, thanks so much for doing that! Yours appear to seat in the lug hole like mine. Did you notice that they didn't seem to flange out, and as long, as the OEM version? That's my concern with what I have. They "say" they fit, but they certainly didn't have the same flange and length of taper at the OEM version. Just makes me nervous...

Can u post a photo of them in the lug hole as I did above? Would really appreciate it - thanks!

anyone?

The lug nuts on my 2016 Sport have swollen and need to be replaced. Not wanting to deal with it again, I did NOT buy the Motorcraft lug nuts. Instead, I got these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DPAccessories-D3718-2305-20-Chrome-14x1-5/dp/B00I82CIAM/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Edge%7C5858&Year=2016%7C2016&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive Nice quality and look sharp. My concern? I bolted them up and they thread right up, but they don't have as "fat" an end as the OEM ones. The taper seems shorter on these compared to OEM. They tightened right up and seem to fit flush. I'm just concerned they don't fit right as they aren't overlapping the edge of the lug hole on the rim as much as the OEM versions. Given my wife and kids are in this car, I want to be 200% sure. Can you experts put an eye ball on this and provide feedback? The OEM nut is the top photo. See how the taper flares out to the sides, just a bit? Next photo are the replacements - note, no flare to them. Perhaps that doesn't matter? The taper of the new lug nuts seats in that hole well enough and doesn't seem like the lug hole could go over the lug. Perhaps I'm fine? Thanks, Shumax

This all does help. I like a SLIGHT bulge look on the rim, but nothing drastic. Seems like 255 is the way to go. Thanks again!

Results.

Anyone? Geesh. Sure could use some input! Going to replace in the next few weeks...thanks!

I had the PTU fluid changed on my 2016 Sport, with 28,000 miles. Firestone charged me $90, including the fluid. I sent it out to Blackstone to have it looked over. The tech told me there was some sludge on the drain plug, but no shavings. Said it ran fluid, but was thick. Said changing it was the right move. Replaced with the OEM fluid. Interested to see what Blackstone has to say about it's condition... Shumax

They do not list optional sizes for the 20” rim...

Need to replace the tires on my 16 Sport. The tire I am looking at has no warranty on 255/50/20, but does on 265/50/20. I think the 245/50/20 is too skinny. Will the 265/50/20 rub? Thanks!

No CEL. Did not check for codes...

Thanks for the reply. I did consider the AC - happens whether it’s on or off. Happens in neutral, too. I do feel a vibration - it’s that feeling you feel in a manual shift car when it’s about to stall as you are in first taking off. Sort of gags and shakes the car. But, only for half a second. Catches itself and then returns to normal idle. Then repeats 10-12 seconds later. I thought it may may be a sensor, too, given how repeatable it is....

2.7 ECO. 27k on the clock (9k on new engine). Always run top tier, 93 octane, fuel. Oil changes with SYN every 5k, at least. Lately, while in neutral, the engine will drop to about 350 RPMP, stumble, catch itself and then return to an idle around 650-750 RPM's. It's repeatable, almost on a cycle of about every 10-12 seconds. I do not notice, while stopped, in D, S, or R. I'm due for an oil change, so I'll have the dealer look at it. Any thoughts, though? Shumax

Don't you find that design to be poor? It's going to trap moisture in there and eventually lead to rust forming on that lip, up the fender. Ask any Honda owner from the late 90's that had the rubber strip on the wheel well lip. Mine, too, is loose. I took it off to clean and it looks worse back there - had thought about leaving it off for good. Just not thrilled with the idea of it being on at all - long term, I think rust is inevitable. Shumax

I should have mentioned that - no leaks. Also, my wife drives the car, so she doesnt pay as much attention to smoke coming out the rear. However, since this all started( issues with the first engine), I asked her to and she contends she hasnt seen anything...

One of isn't reading the other correctly, which I'm not concerned about. You confirmed my suspicion which is the use of that much oil, in 80 miles (or even 300), is excessive. Thank you, Shumax

I'm referring to the first one that had to have the cylinder heads replaced due to burning oil and then was eventually replaced - as noted in this thread. Is it normal to use that much oil in 80 miles after the engine was replaced 300 miles ago? Shumax