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no tsb that i am aware of.

typically with fords, the drains are blocked causing water to enter the cabin.

the drains should exit under the door paneling. the entrance should be in the front of the sunroof one on each side. try blowing them out with compressed air.

maybe look up fabricators for focus and fusion and give em a ring.

@tobjack54 how many miles on your edge? has the brake fluid been serviced regularly?

iirc some 2010s were included in the extended warranty program, but since it was from original purchase date, it is likely expired - brake booster.

you should bleed the abs system (need computer to do that) then bleed the main brakes. if there is air in the abs, bleeding just the mains wont work. or find a gravel road, put your vehicle in reverse, drive at moderate speed then brake hard to engage abs. repeat a few times and see if that helps. if it does not, and pedal travel is fine, you might be looking at replacing the hcu and/or abs module.

unplugged the car will continue to idle but it will set a code. you can drive with it but it will be rough and have loss of power. with lack of input from the MAF, that is what you will experience.

as ron said, get a gauge on there, but if it rattles at operating temp, you have a problem on your hands. many "nused" vehicle owners find out the hard way

some adapters we like over at mactfordedge groups

https://www.mactgarage.com/obd-adapters-tuning

for detailed work and longevity, we recommend the obdlink mx+ or bluedriver ...

note these links are mact affiliated. if you do not wish  mact to receive a commission, use the product number in the url to get to it directly.

if oil level is correct and there are no leaks, the oil light coming on is a problem. i have the rattle on startup or i used to before changing a few maintenance items, and the oil light has never come on. so the fact that it shows up at all is an issue.

recheck the switch make sure it is not leaking. this would not cause a rattle but would cause the light to come on.

yes even new switches fail. or possibly no thread sealant was applied.

Lubrication System

The engine lubrication system is of the force-feed type in which oil is supplied under full pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, timing chain tensioners and VCT solenoids. The flow of oil to the valve tappets and valve train is controlled by a restricting orifice located in the cylinder head, front camshaft cap.

Oil Pump

The lubrication system is designed to provide optimum oil flow to critical components of the engine through its entire operating range.

The heart of the system is a positive displacement internal gear oil pump.

Generically, this design is known as a gerotor pump, which operates as follows:

• The oil pump is mounted on the front face of the cylinder block.
• The inner rotor is piloted on the crankshaft post and is driven through flats on the crankshaft.
• System pressure is limited by an integral, internally-vented relief valve which directs the bypassed oil back to the inlet side of the oil pump.
• Oil pump displacement has been selected to provide adequate volume to make sure of correct oil pressure both at hot idle and maximum speed.
• The relief valve calibration protects the system from excessive pressure during high-viscosity conditions.
• The relief valve is designed to provide adequate connecting rod bearing lubrication under high-temperature and high-speed conditions.

how many miles on your edge. if it rattles and the oil light comes on, you are likely looking at a timing/water pump job

On 10/24/2022 at 7:47 PM, ZeroPlus said:

 

 

Any connection?

no. different engines altogether.

i would suggest getting forscan lite and an obd adapter to monitor timing/timing errors. almost seems tho like there is inadequate oil flow or the oil has broken down.

how old are the blades/when were they last replaced? brand? have you tried wiping down the edges with isopropyl alcohol? that will give you an assessment of whether the edges are smooth or not.

car-part.com for used engines with warranties. i beilieve you can find vehicles through the 2018 MY that used this 3.5

the 3.7 tivct engines from the FWD platformed vehicles should also be a dropin fit, but i have not confirmed.

depending on how old the replacement engine is, you might want to budget for a water pump + timing job on it anyway for peace of mind.

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24317-the-ultimate-27tt-aftermarket-parts-thread/

@hamdan out of pocket unless you have remaining factory warranty.

the sport got a 2.7 ecoboost in 2015, so 2014 should be the 3.7L engine.

If your edge came from factory with the tow package it will have the oil cooler. and yeah the adapter + extra tubing is hard to miss.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2010-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/cooling-system--oil-cooler

if you dont have the cooler you can still buy an engine with the cooler and simply discard those fittings.

1 hour ago, TheWall0211 said:

Why are these boards so dead? The other car club boards I participate in are jumping - and here I can’t get answers to any questions at all….so strange.

 

not dead, but not much new happening with the platform except maybe mods on the ST. the edge is officially out of production, so i am sure that weighs it down a bit.

prob stupid question, but have you reset the mpg since you got it?

do you drive primarily in the city or heavy traffic?

new plugs will be a nice boost if the installed plugs are original to the car.  motorcraft plugs are your best bet. you can find the coils in a pack from an online ford dealer ba5z12259a. the gaskets and plugs will not fit your MY tho. ford keeps raising the price, but still better than paying for them individually.

definitely assess the health of the ptu and rdu.

hopefully you had new chains and tensioners installed with the water pump, bonus if you did the vct solenoids as well.

no comment
???

check speakers and subwoofer, could be an electronic thump or something actually broken

if you have chromeclad wheels, they can cause noises as well, usually clicking though.

did you have codes before you did the work? how many miles on your vehicle? did you use motorcraft plugs or are they aftermarket as well?

although relatively uncommon on this generation, the pcm may be suspect if the coils check out. but seems like these aftermarket coils may not be quality at all. you can check basic stats using the method shown here

there have often been problems with the exhaust flaps behind the rear bumper, if this happens even in recirculation mode.  not usually on this platform, but something to check, especially in areas of high insect activity or high levels of mud/debris.

heavy acceleration cuts off the normal emissions monitoring to save the engine, and the fuel mix runs rich. results in odors.

if you have a broken flex pipe, that will exacerbate the problem.

lets start from the beginning:

1. mileage
2. ownership history
3. maintenance and modification history
4. why was a salvage car being used to fix issues on your vehicle

normally, a fast flashing PATS light is a sure sign of fob failure.

not sure why the OBD port is not working, but usually it is not turned off by the vehicle. more likely either a physical wiring/fuse related problem or at some point an aftermarket immobilizer or similar device was installed.

have never seen the PATS light flash that 1-6 sequence.  the CEL used to be used to flash codes in the days of OBD1. the HVAC module (dual) on this platform still does. but not PATS.

have you verified that the vehicle battery is good? voltage and Cold Cranking Amps.

you can check for any mfr's latest cards at navigation.com

the 2.0 has no dipstick, you have to get under the vehicle to service/check the fluid.