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ford always changes a few things as model years roll by, but nothing that can't be overcome.

typically you have to use the sensors and flexplate that come with your 2013 engine instead of the more recent one. meaning if you get new sensors or flexplate, they should be a fit for your VIN number.

also some mounting bits may differ. again, reuse the 2013 bits for that perfect fit.

use motorcraft yellow coolant, or peak 10x/prestone 300k universals.

what are the symptoms when it fails to start on hot days, @Abdullah Alghamdi?

does it crank normally or not even crank? do the lights on the dash come on normally?  does the security light flash slowly or does it become faster when cranking?

starters are known to fail during temperature extremes.

On 8/13/2022 at 12:04 PM, Cerberus said:

finally got around to changing the rear 3 spark plugs. (2.7 EcoBoost)

i did the front three 10 months ago, but they were in very good shape so i was in no hurry to deal with the rears due to the access issue.

Interesting observation BTW; the rears (original OEM plugs) came out much dirtier with noticeable carbon on the insulator,  than the fronts came out, which i presume is at least partly due to the 170 thermostat.

Aaaand now I realize that i installed the one step colder plugs, NGK LTR7BHX 95605.. 

maybe not ideal. we'll see.

 

Side note, I had a friend give me an old nitrous bottle, 1st step to building an IC fogger.. ?

 

rear bank is where the heat gets trapped, in every type of engine in our vehicles. you might think the 2.7 is not as crammed as the 3.5 is, but it is, due to the extra parts and hosiery required.

and air flow is not even across the cylinders. this was proven when direct meth injection systems (1 Nozzle per port) were developed for the 3.5 EB.

if you heard a squeaking/whistling/whooshing sound when stepping on the brakes, it is the booster.

if not, you may have a faulty ABS module. 

the master cylinder hardly ever fails on this platform.

check out rockauto.com or any online ford dealer such as fordpartsgiant.com

generally the breakage is inside the turbo with the wastegate. i think 1 or two people have repaired it successfully but have no documentation to that effect.

best bet is to replace the turbo.

On 7/26/2022 at 9:33 AM, Haz said:

It was interesting to see, in the PDF download linked 2008 MY document below, that the PCM is the only listed module that employs Adaptive Learning...

 

 Module Configuration and Parameter Chart

 

Module Name	Reprogram/ Flash Capable	Requires PMI	Requires Adaptive Learning	Requires Calibration	Available Programmable Parameters
ABS module	Yes	Yes	No	IVD initialization	None
APIM	Yes	Yes	No	No	None
ACM	Yes	Yes	No	No	Phone module
DSP module	Yes	Yes	No	No	None
DSM	Yes	Yes	No	No	Easy entry/exit
DCSM	Yes	Yes	No	No	None
Headlamp control module (HCM)	Yes	No	No	No	None
HVAC module	Yes	No	No	No	None
IC	Yes	Yes	No	No	Belt-Minder® Overspeed warning Transit mode
Liftgate/trunk module (LTM)	Yes	No	No	No	None
Occupant classification system module (OCSM)	Yes	No	No	OCS re-zero	None
PAM	No	Yes	No	No	None
PCM	Yes	Yes	Yes	No	Axle ratio Tire size Speed control present
RETM	Yes	Yes	No	No	Language English/ Spanish/French SDARS
RCM	Yes	Yes	No	No	Driver seat Belt-Minder® Passenger seat Belt-Minder®
SDARS module	Yes	Yes	No	No	None
SJB	Yes	Yes	No	Tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) sensor training	Autolocks Auto un-locking Daytime running lamps (DRL) Perimeter lighting mode Stoplamp outage enable/disable
Steering angle sensor module (SASM)	Yes	No	No	No	None
4X4 control module	Yes	No	No	No	None

 

Module Configuration - 2008 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

 

Good luck!

 

the TCM is not even listed, i wonder what they would classify it as - adaptive or not, since you have to erase the tables separately from the PCM reset.

On 7/20/2022 at 3:25 PM, IcyFridge said:

Already done several times during troubleshooting of the initial shudder problem.

if it is awd, it is worth checking the RDU. not sure what all symptoms are going to crop up with the instant disconnect these things have.

what year edge?

are you comparing cold start to warm/hot start?

are you using keyed/keyless/or remote start when this happens?

have you checked battery health - cold cranking amps in particular?

are the cranking rpms the same regardless of which time you start the engine?

... more questions may arise once data is provided.

20 hours ago, taylor.johnston54 said:

i seen a video on youtube by mactfordedge but he says thats for 2011 only, will this work with my 2008?

it should.

fordtechmakuloco also has a video on this on YT

since you are noting temperature dependent symptoms, and already serviced trans fluid, you should check basic maintenance items such as

air filter

spark plugs

pcv valve

maf/map sensor(s)

loose wiring

wiring eaten away by pests

where are you located?

have not heard of any such servicing on the edge mkx platform. i assume the bearings are sealed and will not benefit from it. you could replace the motors or the brushes maybe. or get a dropin replacement from a JY on car-part.com

try to get the pcm reprogrammed

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tV0p90M85nN1S99BRujXA620dqIfQ6l/view?usp=sharing

who is telling you to replace these bushings and why?  do you have an invoice or estimate to that effect?

afaik, subframe bushings have never had to be replaced on any MY of Edge. and as Haz mentioned, if you really did, you would need the entire subframe OR source alternative parts with help from parts houses.

no one has even developed aftermarket sub bushings, tho that is hardly a surprise given how eclectic an effort that would be.

some of the work is shown in these videos

for GEN 1.5

for GEN 1

JD_Crankshaft Position _CKP_ Sensor 2007-2010 Edge MKX.pdf

hopefully gives the solution

Inertia switch is a good idea, since you are getting cranking but no fuel.

vct has only 1 per valve cover, ti-vct has two. vct only controls intake, ti-vct controls both intake and exhaust. if the new motor is from an 08, then it should be 100% compatible.

are you sure the new motor has no timing issues? there was a tsb on the phasers that state if it had timing related codes, that the phasers would need to be replaced. i guess tho the codes would show up when you started it after the install, but its puzzling why it wont even start.

Lionhart makes well reviewed tires in this size for hipo applications. and gets a thumbs up from a trusted source for tire testing.

this is a daily drive for @macbwt lol. assuming maintenance is uptodate, your Edge should do fine. most owners don't even change the fluids  at Ford recommended intervals, and that means all bets are off.

what does your normal drive look like, is it mostly city, mostly highway, or some of both? 150K looks different in an allhighway vehicle than an allcity vehicle.

also, do you regularly scan the computers for codes?

16 hours ago, Robert99 said:

Both the 1 we took out and the 1 we put in at Ti-VCT, all the accessories work, battery does get drained from using the scan tool and cranking, and there is only 1 code other then the readiness test, it has a throttle actuator error, the old engine was replaced because the headgaskets were blown, it had green oil and the customer wanted to go ahead and just do a new motor then do the head gaskets 

 

the 3.5 in a 2010 is vct, not ti-vct. i am not sure how that affects the sync issue but the pcm seems to be expecting a different response from the sensors than it is getting.  i don' t know enough to say that you can use the 2010 oem pcm with the ti-vct engine, a reflash with an as-built from a 2011+ might work, but i just don't know. you could ask a tuner to see if this new engine can be accommodated with the old pcm.

changing the throttle body should rid the throttle actuator code, but it will not help with the syncing issue.

did you use a VCT 3.5 or a Ti-VCT 3.5? probably a silly question, but needed to ask. since it is cranking (150-250 rpm?), it is not a PATS issue, and the PCM/instrument cluster are not involved.

comes down to checking all the electrical connections and health of battery. are you able to turn on/run all accessories, headlamps, etc?

if cam and crank sensors are not synced, then it should set a code. what was the original problem that led to replacement of the engine? was it misfiring on the old setup?

need to retune the fans along with the 170 tstat to take advantage. otherwise you are just delaying the initial rise to operating temperature.

the other proactive piece of course is to use a better fluid - such as Amsoil Severe Gear or Redline Lightweight Shockproof.

as for difference the cooler makes

congrats! pics?

same company, different product lines. glad the new setup is doing well for ya.