WWWPerfA_ZN0W

i have seen oem advertised on amazon but ymmv, i still have the originals on our 2007.

i dont consider the edge a loud vehicle even in the first generation. each generation had improvements. gen 2 is very quiet.

choice of tires makes a big difference. all terrains vs cuv specific tires for instance.

sound deadening - so many places to do it lol. including the hood.

welcome!

could be belts and tensioner, very often hear them on cold starts. rarely pulleys but could be also.

worst case scenario something in the timing system/water pump.

that uneven start makes me worried about the timing chain/tensioners. there is a rattle upon startup.

same as any other fwd/awd sport transmission service.  the awd/fwd distinction does not really matter for this.

4x drain/fill will do nicely. if not using motorcraft or valvoline mercon lv, i recommend valvoline full synthetic multivehicle atf in the red gallon jugs. or aim even higher

well we have the right to assume fundamental things such as ground connections are sturdy. but yes, checking grounds is never a bad idea ... IF you know where they are lol.

high and low beams work through the use of shutters inside the headlight. you can compare to driver side to see if both are working correctly.

clicking is when you try to switch back and forth between hi and low beams? or regardless?

usually not a wiring issue but certainly could be a plug issue OR bcm issue.

no luck with updated profile showing up in posts. this is at least a 9 month old issue for me. thanks.

doesnt look like any water was mixed in the catch can drain, which is good. did it smell like fuel? @Cerberus

welcome, and watch out for that torque steer lol

here are bulletins from ford for your gen up on mactgarage website, take some time to get familiar if not so already

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1vQcTXmba9Z2AMvYe7ClAplR16ltQm6ES

if it is the biggest baddest agm battery that ford has to offer, 149.95 is an excellent price indeed. something you might get if you were a LEO lol.

my guess is it would be the minimum battery that meets factory specs for your vehicle.

nice ride. glws.

7 hours ago, Totally_Ripped said:

Installed a 20" LED strip light in the grill of my wife's 2011 Ford Edge Limited.

 

spot or flood?

aftermarket branded coils are hit or miss. best to stick with ford/motorcraft whenever possible. idk how much cq coils cost you, but motorcraft coils cost you 60 bucks or under apiece nowadays.

4 hours ago, Chipster said:

Out of curiosity what is the result of not re-setting the BMS after a battery replacement? Would there be any point in doing a BMS reset a couple of years after that battery replacement? Has anyone used the info. expressed in the video above for said BMS reset and if so, what was the result? 

the result of smart chargers today is that they have to assess the profile of the battery they are charging.  that is what the BMS reset does. if you do not reset it for the new battery, it will charge the new battery as if it were the old run-down battery, which of course is bad for the new battery longterm.  those infamous "battery saver" messages will start popping up a lot sooner than they would have.

On 2/20/2023 at 9:18 PM, omar302 said:

 

If I'm not mistaken, the previous generation issues were from the PTU. RDU failures are rare.

As for @JGN12 point on maximum maintenance life, comparing vehicles (Ford) to other complex systems (including aeronautical), the difference lies, in my opinion, in designed service life. Planes & helicopters I believe are designed to serve a much longer life than automobiles. 

yeah 2011+ have more problems with the RDUs than 2007-2010. probably because they changed awd programming to get that quicker rwd style launch without upgrading the internals significantly. increased vehicle power as well ... definitely not lack of fluid or airflow.

the taurus sho 2010+ also experiences rdu issues. but i have seen only 1 person so far (may he RIP) that has installed a drain plug on it.

yeah hasn't ever been easy on this platform lol.

have had to remove the battery and battery tray to get to it. on the plus side, you can often access/assess the transmission mount at the same time, at least on the 3.5/3.7, and make it easier to replace the booster lolololol.

this is my current favorite gooloo jump starter/battery bank

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2NSDPVL

kind of a jack of all trades 4 me. somewhat bulky, but versatile.

as for batteries, you can get the best out there but you need to keep it topped up regularly. either through sufficient regular high speed driving or a battery tender. that is how you get the best life out of it, even after resetting the bms.

a smart battery charger and a digital tester are also good tools to have for the long term. they are not tied to any particular make or model of vehicle, so you can help yourself and if the need arises others as well.

i assume wire resistances check out good. could be pcm issue for sure as there is SOME control over charging tho not as much as on 2011+.  i assume no codes show up when obd is scanned?

batteries should be checked for voltage AND cold cranking amps. electronics heavy vehicle.

lately i have found that motorcraft alternators are the only ones that will do the job. i used to believe in bosch also, but i have had 2 of them brand new fail in the process of replacing the failing/not yet failed alternator on our 2007. recommend springing for new mc alternator tho theoretically remanned should work as well. 

@rcll1 yes the brushes do wear down, most often the cause. sometimes the module will fail but rare compared to brushes.

don't know if any spray product will help.

there used to be a video in arabic on youtube showing disassembly and repair of these fans ...

his channel ... prob not cc'd

https://www.youtube.com/@myh1401/videos

how old is the battery? can you post a pic of what you have, including mfr date if still on there?

use a digital tester like the solar ba9 to test battery alternator starting system yourself.

store testing of batteries is weak sauce. i would replace the battery.

also, if the PATS light is flashing fast when you attempt to start, you may need a new fob or get it reprogrammed to the vehicle.

did the problem begin after any of the work was done? thats a pretty significant list of items. some requiring configuration.

how many miles on the clock?

fuel and emissions management is considered critical so it is POSSIBLE the vehicle sees that code and is refusing to start. tho it should not crank at all.

verify battery voltage and cold cranking amps with engine off and at ambient.

the push button could be failing but not enough yet to set a code.

is it just noise or vibration also? 

awd or fwd?

plugs/coils/maf/tb/all fluids maintenance history?

i believe the reset for a manual system is different from auto but i could be wrong ...

anyway, there is only 1 blend door in manual systems.

how has the coolant maintenance been? what are the temps at the heater core inlet/outlet?

check to see if this tsb applies to you

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link

@Perblue sorry to hear but the stress is in keeping with the holiday season

there is a tsb for the 2.7, not sure it applies to you, if turbos are truly what went.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=share_link

but if you do go the 3.0 route, couldn't blame ya.