WWWPerfA_ZN0W

24 hr minimum sealing time required per ford for resealing the oil pan. little interest has been shown by people in helping develop a real gasket for this engine, unfortunately.

3 minutes ago, Cerberus said:

Actually, all you have to do is turn on your AC. This will command the fan to come on 

nobody wants to lose that 0.1 mpg turning on a/c will cause lol.

dealing with extreme heat you want the fans to come on earlier and run longer, whether you get the lower temp tstat or not.  to change fan operation, you need a tune capable of doing so.

where refrigerant is concerned do not guesstimate.  use pro gauges and fill the proper amount of refrigerant and pag oil. ac in  a can is quite prone to error and these systems are very finicky about the amounts added.

2007-2010 edge mkx Air Conditioning (AC) System Recovery, Evacuation and Charging.PDF

your 2 best options are to remove the chrome cladding and paint the bare metal but you have to find well fitting caps, or new wheels entirely.

new chrome clad covers are available but hard to come by in the 20 inch size.

see mactfordedge videos on yt if you want to pursue the former.

https://www.youtube.com/@MACTFordEdge/search?query=chrome

an example of the latter

from what i have seen, the TPMS system is very particular about the sensors it uses. so most likely, sensors from 2011-2014 will not work although specifications may seem compatible.

hence why i suggested universal sensors like these

https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Sensor-33500-Universal-Programmable/dp/B0B581Y6RP

https://www.schradertpms.com/en/our-products/schrader-ez-sensor-familyr

https://www.schradertpms.com/sites/default/files/2020-07/2020 App Guide.pdf

Edge 2007 2010 W Chrome Wheels 315 6F2Z-1A189A 33500 33700

Edge 2007 2010 W/O Chrome Wheels 315 7L1Z-1A189A 33500 33700

if you want to get a tool also, the guide lists compatible tools.

there are universal sensors such as from Schrader that you can use for the conversion. i think they are the same frequency 2007-2014, but not 100% sure.

the band style sensors on our 2007 are still original, and 3 out of 4 are functional. so 16+ years is a good haul. i think they are more active in later generations leading to quicker decline.

i have not watched this video but the title claims to show you parking brake replacement

there is a tsb out for gen 2 2.7s with oil consumption requiring a new block.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zcNjezDAfMkX_jzC9PJC1niHgpLhmTEA/view?usp=drive_link

nothing yet on gen 2.5

did you change the timing chain, tensioners, maybe phasers too?

what my/engine are we talking about?

did you use motorcraft/ford parts or some aftermarket timing/water pump kit.

did water mix with the oil and if so did the mix turn grayish or remain a "creamy" color

monitor vct adv error values using forscan lite software and an obd reader on your smartphone/tablet to give you an idea if timing is the issue.

@ST Road Runner wouldnt happen to have pics of the old fluid, would you? also what new fluid did you go with. most probably go motorcraft, being gen 2.5

i had this with our 2007 on oem pads and rotors.

mostly went away with aftermarket equipment but will return occasionally. probably why they put silencers on the 2011-2014 lol.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2011-ford-edge/engine/intake_manifold.html?filter=(15019)

BT4Z-6N041-A
Insulator

Location:Upper

Fit Note: 6 Cyl 3.5L DOHC VCT SMPI

Base Number: 6N041A

Callout Name: 6N041A

a lot of useful information on the MACTFORDEDGE channel

https://www.youtube.com/@MACTFordEdge/videos

all good things ... you had quite a run. hope all is well with you.

seems like the real longterm fix may be the torque converter (+/- the valve body). not an insignificant repair out of warranty. almost worth getting an extended ford warranty first then have the dealer deal with the problem and show them this fix.

usually best bet is a dealer as the part is listed as discontinued. used can occasionally be found on ebay.

mercon lv  does brown as it ages  but certainly does not go black. definitely time to get all the old out.

how many drain/fills it takes depends on how much you get out each time

gen 2 capacities/specs

https://www.mactgarage.com/gen-2-ford-edge-capacities-and-spec

the 2.0 loves fresh engine oil and transmission fluid even more than the 3.5/3.7. a) forced induction, b) weaker transmission internals.

gold is not the same as orange is not the same as yellow.

ford has specified yellow as being a replacement for all its predecessor coolants back to the days of gold.

or you can skip the confusion with a universal like peak 10x / prestone 300k ...

two things usually will prevent a/c and rad fans working properly, besides bad fans: bad a/c transducer or high pressure switch, and incorrect refrigerant pressure / usually low.

so check refrigerant pressures with a pro set of gauges, don't try to correct the situation with ac-in-a-can. we have had many members stuck in the too low too high situation using those quick fixes. edge ac pressures work within a fairly narrow range.

the transducer can be replaced without evacuating the system, if the schrader valve is not leaking.

usually the problem is the relay with fans staying on all the time. in this case idk, still could be the same problem.

is the water pump verified working? coolant level and condition?

there aren't high and low speed fans, they are variable speed depending on need. above 40mph, fans are generally not needed as passive cooling is enough.

what codes if any did you get? the vehicle has shutters on the radiator for better warmup from ambient temp. could be stuck closed.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18AMhjoa0FBSCAo9orRLKNKjHCseOJI8r/view?usp=share_link

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-fan-and-motor-f2gz8c607a

cooling fans for the 2015 my

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZKjzmCcIyPhF6WZ-5x0ZUQFWoRF2hENg/view?usp=share_link

2.0 replacement procedure

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nJ6qs9_23xeS-jHOUK3vmTwEOeABgBSu/view?usp=share_link

2.0 module replacement procedure

https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/#JumpZone

you can get ford warranties out to 149k. preinspection may be needed.

most try flood, zieglers, anderson kock etc among the online dealers selling these warranties.

On 4/21/2023 at 11:40 AM, Cerberus said:

There were some small shiny bits but pretty minimal. I figure I'll run it a bit and suck out the old and refill. 

 

I've already started searching for RDUs and there are a bunch available out there, but minimal info on them. Any resources you can point me to on that would be appreciated 

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-axle-asy-rear_s-158-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Edge&year=2016&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=(21805;1886)

this is the rdu pretty pricey at just over 1,000 USD.

sometimes for some mys you can get the viscous coupler separately if that is all you need, but i assume you feel the gearing portion is faulty not the clutch.

need to replace the  fan assembly to fix this issue longterm. may be the module, or not.

recommend motorcraft. dorman can be used but make sure the connections are TIGHT.

if the fluid has never been serviced, that is not bad. breakin metals accumulate on the magnet. if you dont find slivers or chunks, you *should* be good.

now as to the clutch portion of it ... mercon lv filled ... idk. you may indeed have to get  a new rdu if that is bad or source the viscous coupler and replace just that piece.

@Special_K had sourced a high end version of the coupler for his sport project. idk if that is still an option.