RobbN

Long time lurker here... When I first got my 2011 SEL in 2012 with the stock stereo - no MFT, it sucked. It was so bad that highway travel was unbearable. So the first thing was to replace the door spreaders, we went with memphis / phoenix gold speakers, was done at a local shop as I do not know much about this stuff and am always afraid of breaking clips, etc... This was okay for a few months but the head unit is grossly underpowered, and it needed some bass. I read all the forums about the OEM subwoofer, and the aftermarket JL Audio (and its price, without an amp) And I really DO want that JL Audio hidden sub, but its a steep price to pay, and if I trade this truck in in a couple of years - its money wasted. I really want a nice low end sound but I do not want to have a big clunky box in the back taking up valuable cargo area, so after much debate I wnet with a small amp (Phoenix gold) and a Kenwood (Shelf type) subwoofer - its like a small shelf and I can still place stuff on top of it or also easily remove it if I need to. This Kenwood has a single 10" sub - and sounds really good - Im going back in this week to replace to new amp with a 5 channel amp though. Photos enclosed. Again - this just an FYI so you guys can see another option - I saw the guy pic on here that made the false floor and has like 3 10 or 12 inch subs and 3 or 4 amps where his spare tire was - and I didn't need to rock the block with my edge, nor did I have 4K to drop on a stereo. But this setup of mine sound super nice in the truck - and was around $500 in total - not including the door speakers that were previously changed. Im currently thinking of the Metra dash kit and a touch screen - but I do not LOVE the looks of the metra kit, and I am concerned I may loose functionality of the steering wheel controls.

Local guy selling 2011 Mustang GT rims they are 19" rims and looking it up on tire rack.com looks like the offset and size are the same as my SEL 2011 edge. differences - for my EDGE tirerack for a 19" rim tirerack recommends 235/55/19 tires - and the mustang tires are 245/45/19 The rims look nice - Just wondering if they will work. Link is here... if it is still valid. http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/pts/3851961870.html thanks all ...

Question: do you notice a huge difference in ride quality with the 22's ? I would love to pick up a pair, but my wife is afraid that the ride will be bumpy and she will feel every railroad track, bump, and crack in the road. - And as she has a tendency of getting car sick, I'd hate to buy them if its a valid point. Currently I have stock 18's on a '11 SEL Thanks.

That V-Led link did not work for me I would be ver interested in the best LED option(s) for my edge - Backup lights, tails, and Blinks. I am also interested in the front LED's but I saw the switchback video and they did not look bright and could not even tell they were working when the headlights were on. Can I get some V-Led Part numbers ?? thanks - 2011 SEL Edge

wow - I hadn't checked this forum in a couple of days... and 10 replies, nice. I had spoke with Dan S. on this about a month or so ago, but he had stated it was well over $1000.00 to incorporate a amber turn into the accent lighting. So thats why I was reluctant to pull the trigger back then. Then i saw these and they looked very nice, and for the money...dirt cheap. I would love an option from Dan but I also can't justify dumping 500.00 - 600.00 plus in 2 lights just to get the turn signal incorporated. So are we saying the 70-90L per led is dim ?? are Dan's 440L per LED, or in total ?? I may wait - as I do love the DTBL lights... but I am anxious for the Amber... And I would like the Amber LED switchback's blinker rather than just an amber (1) led light pipe. We will see.....

I know Kc300 makes these lights and I long ago thought about buying a set of them, but I had always hoped that those lights could double as turn signals, but that was never an option. So recently while perusing Ebay I ran across these.... Does anyone have further information on these lights ?? or have any experience with them ?? Thanks all.... I am wondering about the brightness of these units, it says 10w 70-90LM and I am not sure how that compares to the Phillips ones. http://www.ebay.com/...d2dc44c&vxp=mtr EBAY AUCTION... FOR DRL LIGHTS

What lug size are we edge owners looking for ? Thanks -

Hey - I saw these on CL - there about 45 minutes away from me, and there is not a lot of information on them, but the guy wants $225 I suppose even after $100 fix they are still an amazing deal - Question is: Will they fit ?? Thanks - 2011 Edge SEL.

C_bova - Interesting observation tonight, I went for a drive and had my headlights on ON, then moved them to auto. I then went into a store for about 10 minutes and auto-started my edge and both lights fired up. It seems as if my lights work on auto, if the edge hasn't been sitting overnight or for hours and hours. So, if the truck is warm... the lights seem to fire up on auto. Also, Re: DDM - Did they send you a new ballast - then you send the old one back, or did you have to go back to oem 9005's until the new ballast was sent back and an new one received ?? thanks -

With everyone else, is it always the Drivers side that doesn't fire ??

The LED strip on the bottom does not look that bright, are they more as a running light and not a DRL ?? The Halos look nice.

C_Bova - Did you get any resolution on this issue? I also have the DDM kit, and have the same Auto-on issue(s) really annoying with my remote start.

Hummm.... I have the DDM Tuning harness, and both sides are grounded. Did anyone find a solution to this ?? - Do you think if I swapped the ballast I would see the passenger side not fire up ? I will try to swap ballast side(s) - to narrow down the problem. Is their anyone else that had success or failure stories ?? Thanks again.

On my 2011 Edge SEL, I have a compustar alarm, autostart. I love the comp-star stuff as its a quality product. Now that my HID's are installed, - with my switch on "auto" when I put my key in the ignition and click it to the "accessory" both headlights come on, then when I move it past accessory and I crank the engine over the drivers HID goes out. The only way to re-light the HID is to turn the headlight knob to "parking" then back to the "on" position. Subsequently anytime I remote start the vehicle at dusk, in the garage, or at night.... only the passenger HID fires up and again I have to manually turn off the lights (both of them) and then back to the "on" position to make both of the HIDS fire up. Does anyone know how to fix this issue ?? thanks so much.

I searched this for a bit and did not find a definitive answer, What are you guys using for a really bright rear turn/break light ? Are you guys going with an LED or a regular bulb ? I heard some of the regular bulbs leave a burn mark on the socket, and I read that the LED's seem to burn out after a few months and may need a resistor soldered in ?? Any Links for really bright rear tail light LED's that do not require soldering resistors and that have a long life span ?? Also, now with my HID's I notice that at night the front turn signals seem to be overpowered by the HIDS and are not as visible as they were, and links on brighter ones for those front lights as well ?? I saw the switch backs which look cool and all, but again with headlights and in the daytime they are hard to see. Thanks all. Again, I read almost every post on this subject and most were for 2010's and older.... So I don't this they are applicable. Thanks again..

Is anyone near Milwaukee or Chicago that has done this ?? If not, could I cut the tabs down smaller so I can turn the bulb further ?? Thanks - If their is someone I would gladly drive to you. Thanks.

So looking at the edge from the front directly into the eye of the projector, passenger side. Should the "bar" on the HID bulb be in the 9 o'clock position ? and if not, what clock position ?? thanks again....

So the goal here is to get that "bar" on the bulb completely horizontal with the fender ? Looking at the Edge from the front, looking at the headlight should the "Bar" at the 9 o'clock mark ??

Either way, as the tabs are separated by such degree (10,2, and 6 o'clock) I am really confused on how the tabs could go in any other position. - I am frustrated with this, and even after 2 sessions of about 1.5 hrs each or racking my brain on this one and trying to get this bulb in this housing ANY other way or in ANY other configuration..... I can not seem to get it to work... At this point in time, I may just be flipping other drivers the finger.

So are we saying that the little tab on the bulb may have to go into a bigger tab on the housing and vice versa ??

Update : Okay I have had this bulb out about 3 times, and printed out the diagram on the video. Heres my thoughts.... I am stuck with the finger. Their are 2 larger tabs at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock and a smaller tab around the 6pm range. - With that configuration the smaller tab only lines up and can be pushed in when the top tabs are aligned. So I line up all the tabs and the "Bar" that runs on the outside of the bulb is facing straight up, when I turn the bulb in the tabs and I turn as far as they can turn being totally locked in the "bar" is facing the passenger fender of the car, its hot horizontal, when I turn this bulb as far as I can turn it the "Bar" is probably 15 degrees away from being able to be perfectly horizontal. I had tried to turn the bulb, but the way the housing tabs are spaced it seems impossible to make that bar horizontal - and everytime I put the bulb back in.... It gives me the finger. at full power the finger isn't super noticeable and I am am out of ideas on how any other way this bulb can be positioned. I know none of what I am saying makes sense as the driver side light has no finger. - so their must be a way. Also the Passenger side seems a bit less powerful, and I dont know why that is either..... Frustrated..

Okay, it looks as if its going to be more scuffed up knuckles for me later on tonight. Thanks everyone. - Hopefully it goes good.

Are you saying that their is a wire "in front" of the bulb, casting a shadow ?? Their isnt any wires going into the projector, Can a wire behind the bulb cause a shadow ?? I do not love the thought of fighting with those tabs again....... Anyone near Chicago or Milwaukee ??? Any other tips or tricks ?? It almost seems as if the headlight unit needs to come out to do this properly.

Thanks Dingo. After 1.5 hours, some scuffed knuckles and a pretty banged up makeup mirror that I stole from the wife, the tabs are in. Although I dont think the whole bulb turns fully when they are all in, but they are all in and it seems like a very tight fit, no wiggle or play at all. I have almost a straight cutoff line now ! YA !!! ..... And it seems more intense. I took it for a drive and its a LOT better. I have to find that installer, as he has a punch in the face coming his way.

I figured out the problem, but not the solution. The 9006 has 3 prongs on it, and these 3 tabs must lock into the housing (somehow) and now, upon further inspection only 2 of the 3 are inserted properly. I tried and tried to get the 3rd but could not, and do not know why.... Ironically if i turn it around only 1 tab securely locks in place - but in that manner the beam pattern looks a lot cleaner and more how I was accustom to seeing the OEM stock bulbs. is the 9006 the wrong bulb ?? Should I have ordered a different one ?? I bought the 9006/HB4 Anyone else had this issue ?? Can I modify the bulb to make it work ?? Thanks in advance for all of your help... I am sure they will look amazing once seated properly.