omar302

13 minutes ago, igna said:

Yes, that's the only modification, the rear fogl lamp. In Spain is enough with only one.

How did you install it and wire it?

Lower control arm? Or knuckle?

Check this link for a diagram and parts: 

https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2007-ford-edge--se--3-5l-v6-gas/front-suspension--front-suspension

My 2016 currently has ~38K miles. Original front pads. Rear pads were replaced ~500 miles ago.

9 hours ago, lildisco said:

akirby is right. Purposely drove close to the white line to snap this 

Your Edge is also a 2016, right? Mine dis not have that icon on the stock cluster, nor in the MKX. I suspect it started showing up in your Edge due to some ForScan change as I see you have done some other changes to your cluster.

11 minutes ago, akirby said:

Lane keep

Lane keep assist I know is the bigger one next to the fuel gauge, my question was about the small one below. My 2016 Sport also has lane keep assist but I haven't seen this icon. If it is also for the lane keep, what does it mean?

On 7/29/2021 at 3:55 AM, lildisco said:

Need to do more Highway to get my tank average over 500 ?

 

What is that small icon to the right of the battery light? 

We have AC Delco, Motorcraft, Panasonic, Hyundai and then some other unknown brands. We had 3 models/sizes of Optima batteries, non fit. The market here is very oriented towards Asian make vehicles, so not a lot of options. Also, they universally have 1 year warranties except the Motorcraft BXT that get 3 years. Since we get about 1.5 -2 years life out of batteries, the Motorcraft warranty means I'm basically buying 2 batteries.

My current battery is nearly 2 years old, so I'm expecting it to go out soon and just trying to be prepared and decide what to replace it with.

Thanks to all.

My problem is that we don't have many choices for batteries here. The BXT-65-650 being more common is actually cheaper than the BXT-90T5-590. Hence my desire to use that, being cheaper, bigger & easier to find.

1 hour ago, niceonept said:

There are fans in the seats?

If you have cooled & heated seats, then there are fans in the seats.

2 fans per seat, one at the bottom and the other inside the seat back. When the cooling or heating is on max (3 LEDs) the noise is easily heard. For me it's clear as fan noise, but others might think of them as white noise.

To test if the noise is really from the ANC, open a door to the first latch. If the vehicle detects a open door the ANC will turn off.

As per the title, anyone tried installing a Group 65 Battery in a 2nd Gen Edge? Specifically the Motorcraft BXT-65-650? Price wise it is close to the stock (BXT-90T5-590 in my Edge) but has much more Reserve Capacity. The other battery specified for the 2nd Edge (BAGM-48H6-760) is 2-3X more expensive here.

I know it is bigger than the stock battery (BXT-90T5-590 or BAGM-48H6-760), comparison is attached. For the earlier 1.5 Gen, both would fit.

I don't get that noise in my 2016 Sport. I remember reading of a member or two who had some issues due to the Active Noise Control (ANC) and the solution was a software update to a module. Maybe this also applies to this noise too.

Edit: Found this:

Quote

SSM 48344 - 2017-2018 Edge - Active Noise Cancellation (ANC) - Poor Speaker Quality And/Or Low Frequency Bass Noise From All Speakers Some 2017-2018 Edge vehicles may exhibit poor sound quality and/or a low frequency bass noise from all speakers. This may be due to software level FT4T-14C656-AE in the digital signal processing (DSP) module. To correct the condition, reprogram the DSP module with the latest level of the appropriate Ford diagnostic scan tool. For claiming use causal part 18B849 and labor operations in Section 10 of the Service Labor Time Standards (SLTS) Manual.

14 hours ago, akirby said:

All true but it depends a lot on how you drive.  My wife would never notice a difference.

And only for those with butt dynos ?.

12 hours ago, Cerberus said:

Yes, i am aware of this. 

FWIW I am a lapsed ASE Certified Master Tech.

(Never bothered recertifying after the first time because it never made me one dollar more)

The post was more of a comment as to the fact that it was an obvious and significant  difference, and commenting just for commenting's sake. 

I then misunderstood your post.

9 hours ago, Cerberus said:

Now, I don't know if its the fuel cleaning up carbon deposits (the piston crowns were black with carbon) or the ECU remapping ignition timing to use the available octane, or the air temps cooling off, (or some combination of all three more likely)

but there feels like a lot more giddy-up when you mash the loud pedal, perceived by my highly calibrated butt dyno.. ?

You SHOULD feel a difference. The owner's manual also states "For best overall vehicle and engine performance, premium fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended."

A lot of newer vehicles, Ford's EcoBoost engines included, are designed like that. They can work with regular fuel, but using Premium fuel would yield better performance. Ford also had started advertising their Horsepower & Torque number when using 93 Octane fuel.

There is no video posted in your post.

Any warning lights comes on when the issue happens?

I used to put on daily whenever I park as it was along time habit, but recently with it being electrical on the Gen2 Edge I just felt that the actuator might fail sooner if I kept engaging it every single time. So now I judge when I park, if it is  a level surface I'd skip engaging the parking brake.

Maybe try to have someone hold the lever pulled while another tries to pull up on the hood.

46 minutes ago, Markham12 said:

Thanks for the response. I thought 373 whp was probably normal.  I have modified comp technology turbos, ultra performance intercooler, cold side pipe, turbo smart bov, catch can, kn filter, 170 thermostat, motor mount. 450 hp at the crank? Surely not at the wheels with just upgraded compressor wheels. That would be insane. ?  The zfg racing tune has more torque. I can feel the difference easily. But I wanted to solve the misfires which is why I drove to national speed. National speed told me it was a conservative dyno tune. Three people test drove it and said no problems were found. I drove it home with no problems. But after a few days the misfires are back again at wot. They told me to gap the plugs down or they would send me a tune with less boost. I don't want a slower tune. A problem would have shown on the dyno right? My only regret is not choosing a turbo rebuilder who had checked the wastegates. Comp turbo said they did not touch the wastegates. Could it be that the stock wastegates are not adjusted properly or one is broken/not sealing properly? I don't hear wastegate rattle. Would national speed have caught a waste gate issue? I will say it has more lag than the stock turbos, which I think makes takeoffs feel slow.  I tested the 0-60 with the modified turbos on the stock tune and got 6.1. I could do 5.8 on the stock turbos with stock tune consistently. I never had a single misfire while tuned with the stock turbos in a year and a half. But I wanted abit more power. Hmmm. Which leads me to think something isn't right with the turbos. Spent enough for now. Oh well. 

 

Thanks

 

I am not into tuning, came across this post from the Fusion Sport Forums, the OP seems to have went through a lot to get his tune & misfires sorted out. Maybe he can help you out seeing how the Edge Sport is closely related to the Fusion Sport.

As @ben senise stated above, the "distance to empty" figures are predictive. They use the average MPG of the past few hundred miles, so if your current driving uses has a lower mpg compared to the average used for calculation, the "distance to empty" number will go down quickly.

From you posts above, seems your driving is for short drives which will definitely reduce your mileage.

57 minutes ago, poontanghooligan said:

I'm not sure if there is a water-cooled version of the 2019+ PTU for the 8F57 transmission. Information about anything new from Ford is hard to find sometimes.

If you have access to the 2019/2020 service manual you should be able to see the engine cooling components. That's how I found it on the 2015 model.

Battery is 22 months old. It's a Motorcraft BXT-90T5-590E, the 2nd battery in the Edge's lifetime.

Yesterday I went to work in my Edge with no issues. In the afternoon when leaving (~8 hours later), the fob was not responding to unlock, so I thought the fob battery had died. But the the Edge still did not start using the fob backup slot. Nothing came up on the cluster which lead me to thing it was the vehicle's battery was dead as it is 666 days old, and not the fob. So tried to jump start it with another vehicle but no success. Still nothing from the start button or cluster.

I then realized that using the keypad buttons outside worked, I can lock/unlock the doors find with the keypad, but neither the fob or the interior lock/unlock buttons worked. So in a hunch, I disconnected the vehicles battery for about a minute & reconnected it and the Edge Started fine!!!

Checking for codes, I found a bunch or U codes, which usually come after a battery disconnect, but also got a P2610 - ECM/PCM Engine Off Timer Performance. Any thoughts on this? The Edge is now working fine even with the code on. Cleared it is gone.

It is a 2016 Edge Sport with approximately 36K miles.

5 hours ago, poontanghooligan said:

Just wanted to make a correction about me saying my '20 ST PTU being water cooled. Turns out mine is not. It has the mounting boss and bolted cap but no cooler. It's likely because it's US spec and not for hot climates. Now I wonder if I could source the parts to retrofit the cooler. Seems like it would be a better route than an aftermarket oil cooler and pump.

The 2019+ Edge has a different PTU than prior models, is there also a water cooled version of the new PTU?

The change in the 2019+ PTU is the ability to disconnect the driveshaft when AWD is not needed, so I am surprised it is heating up in your Edge ST when towing at highway speeds, I would have thought that the driveshaft would be disconnected and thus no load on the PTU.

So the driver door's intelligent access unlock function does not work, what about for locking the doors? I don't recall this issue being brought up before. What if you try the rear driver side door, does it then open all doors? The rear doors on the Edge also have intelligent access.

If the rear door does open all door locks, my guess is that there might be a fault in the driver door handle or the connection to it.

The turn signal circuit on the Edge uses a dual voltage setup, low voltage (5V i think) to activate the parking light and full voltage to activate the turn signal. The bulb itself is a single filament bulb.

You can disable the "parking light" voltage using ForScan and then you'll get rid of the constant current, but you would also loose the "parking light" from the same circuit. Refer to this post. Though the side marker still functions as a parking light, so there would still be a constant power for parking light going into the headlamp assembly.

Another source for the constant parking light is from the signature light in the bumper, it has 12V constant with ignition on and another constant with parking lights which causes the signature lights to dim when parking/head lights are on.

1 hour ago, Perblue said:

The ultimate drain plug, expensive yes but works amazing.

 

FORD EASY OIL DRAIN (roninfactory.com)

Should take care of what @Cerberus stated in his post above. Since the valve stays in place and has a smaller diameter, the minimum point is raised slightly and would mean that more oil might be left in the pan compared to removing the complete plug. They also state that in their websit:

Quote

 

OIL DRAINING 

When draining the oil, we recommend raising the front end of the truck about 9". (Either on ramps, jack stands or a sloped driveway). This will allow the oil in the pan to slope about 5 degrees, which is all that is needed. Anymore than that will not get more oil out. Using this method, about 1/2 cup of oil will remain which is only slightly more than completely removing the plug, which will yield only about 1/4 cup more of oil to come out. For this reason we do not believe it is necessary to remove the Easy Oil Drain Plug completely during oil changes.