omar302

The procedure with 2 keys is for the factory installed keypad. Not the add-on accessory like yours. That is strange. I think they didn't know how to or just wanted to make a big fuss to charge you more. With ForScan or Ford's equipment it is very easy to get it. Or if you have 2 working keyfobs, you can retrieve the code without any diagnostic equipment.

In 2023 Ford removed the factory keyless keypad from the Ford Edge. Hence the post-factory accessory stick on for those who still want it. This is also true for several other Ford models, but some, like 2024+ Escapes/Bronco Sport and 2025-2026 Explorer, can get the hidden B-pillar pad style as an available accessory like this. 2023 Edge Order Guide.pdf

This is not a factory keyless entry keypad. It is an official Ford accessory add-on. So the entry code probably cannot be found using the normal procedures. As per the I installation manual, a Ford Dealer can get you the code. So maybe if you reach out to the ForScan support team they might help.

If I remember correctly, all 2016-2018 Sports had 20" wheels as standard (polished & forged), with 21" wheels available as an option. 2019+ ST also had 20" wheels as standard. The 21" could be ordered as a standalone or as part of the brake upgrade package. Tire sizes were the same regardless of generation. 245/50R20 or 265/40R21.

Was the drain clogged up or dirty? Being so hidden up there, one might think it is far from any road debris that could get in.

OEM is only available as a complete assembly. If you want cheaper, non-OEM is available for much cheaper. Just search on eBay and you'll many brands available. I don't have experience with them to give any recommendations. As for diagnosis, I had two vehicles with leaking evaporators, in both cases there was a smell inside the car everytime I turned the AC on. Can't describe it, but it was apparent for me.

Did you try to unplug the connector from the Gateway and try to plug it into the other end of the T-Harness, the side not shown in your picture? Even through the plugs look different from the outside, the the one on the T-Harness being straight and the vehicle's sideways (or L-shaped), from online photos, the actual connectors look to be the same and probably should plug in.

The gateway location apparently was moved. Check page 17 in the installation manual here: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/accessory_files/2021_RMST_Common_I_sheet_11_5_20_D1_002.pdf

Newer cars have so much electrics that they become very sensitive to any issues with the batteries. Also, they start quite fast compared to older ones that in many cases you might not notice a "slow start" before it reaches a state of completely not cranking. This is not related to the battery being sealed (maintenance free). Also, what was the battery brand you installed before? Motorcraft batteries would have 3 years warranty, so you might still be covered, even if you had done the installation yourself.

You still have to worry about access your vehicle with the emergency key inside the lost/stolen fob.

You can try the procedure to add it. If it is compatible it'll work. The old key doesn't have to be unmatched/erased from the old car.

As the battery was changed two years ago I would think it is most probably the battery failed and you need a new one. Check what is the warranty on your battery and if it is still valid take it to the shop for checking and replacement if it is bad.

18 lb.ft That's what the 2015 Service Manual indicates (attached). I wouldn't expect it to have changed for later models. 2015 Ford Edge 2.7EB Oil & Filter Change x.PDF

They are two different fob styles. 2015/2016 used the older style (with 2x 2025 batteries) while 2017+ started using the newer type with a single 2450 battery. My 2016 came with the older type and I added fob of the newer style. You can see them side by side In this post I made at the time.

FYI, in case you didn't already know, the ATC is sold separately, in case the differential is good and you don't want to replace the whole assembly.

As far as I know, A/C systems on Ford vehicles come with the dye already inside the system from the factory. So leaks can be detected faster. This is from the 2015 Service Manual, but I would expect it to still be the same. Fluorescent Dye Leak Detection.pdf

This probably indicates a bad (Active Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid. This is the front part of the RDU and controls how much the rear axle connects with the front.

Hi, Did you eventually change the rears? If so, how did you find the old ones?

My 2016 already had the Sock intake. Hence I only purchased the exhaust kit and installed several years ago. Just to be clear, the back seat is much better with the fix, it does not heat up after some time, and my back does not heat up compared with ot off, but it is no where as effective as the seat bottom.

The fix posted is only for the intake side so that it can take in cooler air. But the exhaust would remain to the seat back cavity, so eventually the seat back will heat up to a point where it can no longer be cooled by the TED. The best fix is to have both, intake & exhaust routed outside the seat back. However, your Edge is a 2017 model. Midway in 2016 Ford added a "sock" for the intake so it can take in air from under the seat. So your Edge is good on the intake side. To improve your seat back cooling you need the exhaust side. Unfortunately, the guy (Tim) who used to sell those kits doesn't seem to sell them anymore. But I remember some F150 owners making their own fixes using duct tape and tubing. But I couldn't find any searching now. Also, the F150 thread you linked talks about another issue some are facing with their seats, it is an electrical issue, if it happens causes the whole cooling/heating function to stop.

You have a EU spec with a Diesel engine. Your IPC is different, so you might need to look for different ABD settings to show the the correct settings on your IPC.

Oh boy. That's from 6 years ago! As I remember, it is not about HID vs Halogen, this is to allow changing from stock DRL settings. Check this, though it is for a Fusion, most ABD is similar to the 2015-2018 Edge. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true

If you disconnect the battery before removing the seat and reconnect it after returning the seat, then the Airbag light will not come on. If you have ForScan, you will be able to reset the codes even if if the light comes on.

If you want, you can disconnect the connector for the RDU clutch/module which will make it run in full FWD mode. This could help you feel the difference with no load to the rear. I have no experience with any, but I did notice that the case of the inner CV for the TrakMotive is circular, while the GSP looks like the OEM one. Another thing I noticed, the rear OEM Axle part number was superceded once only, unlike the fronts which changed 5 times, at least.

@1004ron I did not have the vibration/shimmy at acceleration, but a bad clunk. But based on your findings with the wear found on the axles, and as I had no other explanation for the clunking I got. Also the fact that the axle part numbers were superceded several times (at least 5), I went ahead and replaced the left side, OEM. The clunking is finally fixed, at least about 80% of it. Also the Edge felt smoother. So I replaced the right side too. Even better. Opening the inner bearings on both axles revealed similar wear. Both sides also had the grease come out in liquid form. Left side: Right side: