omar302

If it works with ForScan, yes. It would then be able to read codes from all modules and if any code is present it can help direct you for a correct diagnosis.

It is probably the damper arm got loose. Or of you recently changed the cabin air filter, it might have not been connected in pace properly. See any videos on how to change the cabin air filter and you'll see how it is connected. Like this:

That is definitely not the way to go. There is no one coolant for all cars. As @1004ron suggested, is the best way to go. Drain/fill with distilled water several times until you have mostly distilled water, then drain and fill with concentrated coolant. Depending on you engine, fill half the coolant capacity with concentrate. Between drain/refill cycles, make sure to run the engine until it warms up to ensure complete mix.

The issue used to be because the original pan and even several OEM updated versions depended on RTV gaskets that required extensive cleaning from possible contaminants and long cure/drying time that would eventually leak. Making an official fix unreliable. Ford later did come up with a Oil Pan with a press in gasket (instead of the RTV), so the official (latest) fix should be a good one with no need to look aftermarket, in my opinion. The fix differs between model years, for the 2015-2017 models is under TSB 24-2345 (link to details).

I found a thread in Facebook of a similar issue. Seems the common issue is the aluminum oil pan. https://www.facebook.com/groups/fordedgeforum/posts/2749362808595155/

I am having brake squeaks (groans?) at very slow speeds, like when trying to creep or at the end of brake just when coming to a complete stop or when releasing the brakes slowly. I was thinking that the slide pins needed lubrication as I don't recall my mechanic doing so. Did the lubing cure the noises for you?

From the photos of the oil pump, it doesn't seem there is any such tube. Only a gasket in the pump that should go over the pick up tube. Link to the oil pump.

There was several years back, but when the forum moved to a new server and with the new layout we lost the paid quirks.

+1 I am not able to see what it picks up. The hole seems closed off and as if it can't suck any oil!! Also, as there is an oil pressure sensor, the engine output is probably being cut when pressure is dropping. And on S being earlier is probably because it doesn't upshift to 6th and engine speed is staying at a higher RPM longer compared to D where it would upshift to 6th.

On my 2016 Sport it was due to the front CV half shaft.

+1 Also, as the design changed between 2015-2017 compared to newer models, does it have the correct check valve for the PCV.

It is not a common part to replace, so you'll it'll be hard to find someone with a similar experience. The labor involved is a bit intensive and required removing the headliner. Also the glass is not manufactured anymore, especially with it being a nearly 10byear old vehicle. Furthermore, you seem to be in UK, so the Edge is a rare vehicle. Link to part. https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-glass-roof_jt4z-58500a18-b.html Service manual procedure attached. Roof Opening Panel Fixed Glass.pdf

It's been sometime now and I don't remember if this was suggested before, but have you considered they might be coming from the tires? Maybe try rotating them to see if it changes the noise? If recall correctly, with bad bearings the noises would change on turns when the loads on them shift.

You are in Saudi Arabia, prices for OEM Ford parts are already very good compared to USA. Also, for the fan, a lot of previous posts showed bad experience with non-OEM fans. It is highly recommended to buy OEM fans only. For online shopping and shipping, several places offer it, such as RockAuto, Amazon and ebay. You can also use Shopandship to buy locally in USA and then have Aramex ship it to you.

It would be too coincidental to have both fob's batteries to die at the same time. Also, if it were a battery issue I think the keyless entry (using the door handle) shouldn't work. I'd think you have another issue, I would recommend that you disconnect the car's battery for ~ 10 minutes to reset the electronics and see if it fixes the issue.

@Summers22 Glad it eventually worked as you wanted. And yes, I have seen cases were ABD doesn't write or gives errors. Check what are the current values to confirm if the values were written fully or not.

It is confusing, they are using the same photo and diagram for both types of headlights, but they are different and the higher level (more expensive, ~$1700 vs ~$800). You can see photo of used one on eBay like the below. The higher level does not have a socket for the turn signal. Higher level: Lower level:

You are correct that I did add the feature. However, as I was playing around with the values, some values would make the pop up come up at startup (what you are facing right now), but the final values I kept don't have the pop up with only the grey icon showing and the pop up I'd a rear seatbelt is unbuckled.

That's exaggerated. The full headlamp (high level) can be found for around $1725. Yes, still expensive. Link to a sample. However, I am surprised that the turn signal is not working. These LEDs normally last for a very long time. LEDs are not usually replaceable separately and the high level headlamps also include adaptive headlights, so they are expected to expensive.

It has been a few years, but I remember that with the values I posted I would not get the pop-up on startup, it would only pop up if a rear seat belt becomes unbuckled during the drive cycle. During startup, only a small grey "icon" (not a pop up) will show with the number of buckled seatbelts.

Maybe try the ABD configuration I had with the MKX cluster? Not sure if it would be the same or not. Check this post.

The guy would probably have been confused with the "upper level" headlights that come with the 401 package on the ST. They are dubbed as "Adaptive LED Headlamps with LED Amber Light Blade Turn Signals" in the order guide.

The owners manual for the Ford Edge states to use oils that that meets the defined specification and viscosity grade. They do "recommend" Motorcraft, but does not state to only use Motorcraft. Link to the 2024 Edge manual. Not all gears are engineered or made the same, hence the different oil types and viscosities. Well said.

Sorry, but I couldn't find on the Redline website where it states their oil MT-LV 70W/75W is compatible with the Motorcraft XY-75W-QL. It states it is compatible with Ford's XT-11-QDC (WSS-M2C200-D2) which is Ford's dual clutch fluid (link). Checking the recommended fluids based on car make/model does bring up the MT-LV 70W/75W as a recommendation for the rear differential, but if you enter a 2019 Edge it would bring up 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL, so their recommendation page is flawed.

I have re-read your post and noticed that the VIN you posted for the vehicle if the new CCM is actually a Lincoln MKC, not MKX. The MKC is totally different, maybe the CCM is not compatible regardless of loaded software and calibration.