Ironpeddler

I would think the gauge of that OEM wire is insufficient to handle the current needed to run that amp.

Which amp were they recommending?....LINK Were you going to add the new amp in line with the factory amp?...NO. You'll use the wires going into the stock amp and attach them to THIS and then run new wires from the amp to the sub. Or bypass it (for the sub only)?...YES. disconnect it and remove it completely. Where is the factory amp, anyway?...From what I've read, it's right next to the subwoofer enclosure towards the rear passenger door side....behind that panel you pried away...lol. You'll run a power wire up to the battery, find a close ground screw, run new wires from the amp to the Polk sub, wire in that 2 channel speaker adapter from the wires going into the OEM amp, flick the auto turn on switch to audio, make your adjustments to the amp and you're done. I guess once you connect it to one side of the speaker adapter it switches automatically to mono mode...I'd ask Crutchfield about that. Most guys bolt it in behind the rear panel, the only problem with that is you can't fine tune it once you put the panel back in. Install the sub amp under the rear seat maybe?

AWESOME! I'm glad everything worked out for you. I had the same issue with mounting the speakers but all I did was elongate one of the mounting holes a bit with a round file...other than that, I did the exact same thing you did...and I wrapped the speaker plug with electrical tape. I took those trim rings off, in fact I put in the rear passenger side speaker first and didn't noticed that the trim ring was only taped on until I did speaker #2 on the rear drivers side door. The reason being I didn't want them to rattle when the tape dried out and I didn't see how they provided any benefit to the install...so I went back and opened up the first door panel again and took it off along with the rest of the speakers. So, was the sub speaker a dual voice coil like everyone said? I just was reading this morning in another thread here that the OEM sub speaker was a 9" speaker!...is that true? How did it mount into the enclosure?..any gaps along the perimeter at all? Also, did you get the sub from Crutchfield? The reason I ask is I wanted to know if they enclosed the directions to remove that rear panel in the correct manner. I found a local deal on the Polk DVC sub speaker for $60.00...but I can't find the directions to remove that panel anywhere on the Internet. I'm glad to hear that the sub provided an upgrade in sound, what you described is exactly what I'm looking for, a tighter bass sound. When you installed the door speakers, did you notice how much mid-bass they produced? In the beginning I liked it, but now I want to reduce the amount of bass in the front doors only to let a little more of the mid and highs out of them. I'm looking into adding a Bass blocker to the front two speakers only to accomplish this...a cheap fix to see if it helps. I just have to figure out just where I want the cutoff to be...150 or 300Hz. Sounds like you did a great job and that you are really enjoying the results. Now I can move onto installing that sub speaker too...thanks for the info and being the guinea pig on this experiment! LOL

I can't believe I found this thread! Man, are we all cut from the same cloth!! I've been looking for the alternative as well because I went to the dealer and they wanted $20 each (when I was buying touch-up paint)...even the guy at the parts counter laughed when he looked it up and saw the price! When he said $20, I laughed thinking it was for the pair!! Egar...awesome idea, never thought of a mouse pad brother :shades: Now to find a drinking glass of the right size to use as a template.

Definitely keep me posted on your results...the 4 door speakers will sound great. Wait until you hear the mid bass in each one fill the car. Also keep in mind that it will take a few hours of playing to break them in. Even though Crutchfield gives you the instructions for installation, try cruising through this guy's instructions, he leaves no stone unturned in removing each screw and identifying the tools needed. The Torx bit/driver is the only extra tool needed. Go over it so by the time the speakers come, it will be second nature. It took my son and I a little over an hour and a half to do all four speakers, just take your time when removing the plugs for the electrical switches...really easy though. Also check out his other 'How to' tutorials on the Edge...he covers a lot of basic maintenance that will come in handy. Good luck!

Did you get the Polk 8" sub?...and are going to add an amp as well?

I'm looking for a Summer set of tires, so I would need to get a set of sensors when I buy the new tires and do the mounting. Would you please send me a PM and give me your best number in these. We'd also have to figure shipping costs as well...how would we be able to ship these? LOL

They are similar speakers the 570 and 571 and the same price when you figure the BOGO 1/2 price at $150...I guess you are looking at Crutchfield as well. I went with the 570 as the tweeter is more recessed and I had less chance of it touching the door panel. I don't want to add an additional amp either. It's a PITA to run the power wires to the battery! LOL. But if that is what I have to do, then I will...once the weather warms up that is! That Kicker amp they suggest has a power switch that can be activated by the speaker signal so you don't have to wire the power switch wire back to the head unit...so that's a plus, although I think that is an addition accessory part. The worst part is, adding an amp that is using the speaker wires as the signal source instead of the RCA plugs coming from the signal processor of the amp...not sure how clean of a signal that would be. That's why I was asking if anyone did a direct replacement using the factory amp and the 8" Polk sub.

I THINK the power is distributed equally across each connection...25 watts each...and the factory sub IS a dual voice coil. I figured it was the path of least resistance if I duplicated this setup, I think. :hysterical2:

Definitely haven't given up on him. Still looking around to see if I can save a few bucks and get a nice set of wheels. He's my default price point, so anything less will be considered. I haven't spoken to him since our last conversation about the finish being clad or plated.

I just replaced the speakers in our 2008 SEL that has the Nav/SYNC head unit. The speakers I replaced are the same as pictured above in carbonedge+'s post. I went with Polk DXi570 in all 4 doors and it was a great improvement over the OEM speakers, they mounted right in the same spot as the original speakers with the only issue being I had to elongate one hole with a round file on each speaker. More mid range, mid bass, and the highs are now coming through. All I need now is a sub with more punch. My question is, has anyone replaced the OEM subwoofer with a Polk db840DVC? This is a dual voice coil (as I'm led to believe the original one is) and is an 8" speaker as well. I'm trying to find out if anyone did this replacement WITHOUT installing an additional amp and running it off of the standard head unit's amp. From what I've read, they say that this system is 190 watts...I figure it's 25 watts to each door speaker and 90 watts to the sub...guessing. That said, this must be peak wattage numbers and if you cut those numbers in half, that would leave 45 watts to the sub...and the Polk sub has a minimum power handling of 50 watts...25 to each voice coil. Being that the head unit comes up a bit short in power, is it still safe to use that sub without hurting the head unit's power amp?

What do they look like? What kind of condition are they in? Are they mounted with tires?...sensors? LMK I never saw a Sport wheel that fit those years.

Cruz, where did you buy that grill? Thanks

Another update: I just found this on another Ford Forum, a discount code for RockAuto.com... 5% Discount Code: 6E0617F6E7BC Expiration: 3/14/2013 Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive discount. Hope this helps.

Well, I spoke to Joe over at Detroit Wheels & Tires this morning and he answered all our questions completely. He seems like a straight shooter with a good amount of integrity after speaking with him for close to an hour. He knew the bore sizes of the different models right off the top of his head and really knows the wheel business inside and out. 1) The wheels are brand new OEM right from Ford and he bought close to 500 of them directly from them. The best he could surmise is that maybe Ford had these made for new car sales and decided not to use that style. They are NOT an after market clone. 2) These are for the 2013 model year and is having them bored out by a local company that does this type of work for the area car manufacturers and custom fabricators, that's why he has the same wheel for all model years of the Edge. He wasn't sure if they used a metal lathe or CNC machine to increase the bore, but he said there was plenty of metal at the center to handle the slight increase in size...so structurally they are fine. He had them done to the correct depth and only at the hub, NO cutting was done to the chrome face which would cause them to peel. Joe guarantees the work and says if they vibrate, he will take them back and he will pay the return shipping. He just started this endeavor and only has 5 sets out there...and so far no complaints or issues. 3) He will make sure the correct TPMS sensors are installed before he ships them out. He is also flexible on the tires and will accommodate most requests. After our conversation I have a good feeling about this and just may pull the trigger if nothing else comes up for less money. If I do decide to buy them I will come back and update this thread. Hope this helps those thinking whether to buy them or not.

Email sent I don't think the wheels from a 2011 will fit my 2008. The center bore is too small on the 2011 and up model wheels. Thanks for the offer though. :D

Well, all three of us are on the same page. All the questions you raised were concerns of mine. The bore, the different sensors, and whether they are in fact an OEM wheel. I just wanted to confirm these issues with you guys before I place the call. From the looks of them, they look like a decent deal....even if I have to swap out the sensors. If so, I'll buy a new set of sensors and relegate my 17" wheels to my Winter setup after I throw on a set of snow shoes. Truth be told, my perfect wheel is the 22" chrome OEM Sport wheels with the smaller bore of the 2011 and up Edges. The chrome with the black on the spokes would look great on a Black Edge...I just can' seem to find an after market wheel with that wide of a spoke with the black. I can't thank you guys enough for helping me out...I'll keep you posted on my progress.

In my search for a set of 20" chrome OEM wheels to replace the 17" stock wheels in my 2008 SEL AWD...I came across an eBay ad for a set of 2013 wheels that the seller says will fit the larger bore of the 2007-2010 Edges. Here is the eBay listing. Read the gray area titled "Tire and Wheel Package'...that's where he states the fitments. Does anyone know this to be true? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Still Available? Do they have sensors mounted in them? Thanks!

Hey guys, just a simple request. I bought a used 2008 Edge SEL AWD as we lost all our cars in the Sandy floods and would like to replace the stock 17" with OEM chrome wheels...18" or 20". Would prefer the 20s. Please let me know what you have and maybe we can work out a deal, I live in New Jersey. Thanks to all!

Still Available??

Just wanted to BUMP this thread to add that Rock Auto now has an inexpensive charcoal filter for the Edge for $7.03 (plus shipping) and I bought 2 of them. For the slight increase in price over the standard paper filter, I thought I'd give it a try. Using all the member's info here, it took me less than 10 minutes to replace with no tools necessary. It fit perfectly in my 2008 SEL AWL w/Auto Climate Control. It's dimensions are exactly the same as the OEM filter. Once installed, my system blows 5X harder!

Thanks guys. Yeah Sandy was not nice to those of us near the water, that's for sure. I read on here about the 2011 'Sport' wheels not fitting the 2008 model year...which stinks because that's exactly what I want, chrome wheels with a black insert. The aftermarket wheels I've seen so far can't compare to the OEM version in my head! Go figure! Before I get to the wheels, I'm now deciding about the Winter mats and the rear tray....OEM vs. Weathertech. Decisions, decisions... :hysterical2:

Hey folks...my name is Gary and we live in Toms River, NJ. I just picked up a 2008 Edge SEL AWD as all of our cars were destroyed in the floods from Sandy, we live 1/2 block from the Barnegat Bay across from the barrier island of Seaside Heights. So far my son and I really like the looks of the car and it's feel, it's black on black leather and Nav. I'm one to mildly tune my cars to run & look good which is what lead me here, to learn from the brothers & sisters who alreay own them. Just downloaded the update for SYNC via thumb drive and I'm already shopping for wheels. Trying to figure out if the 2011 factory 22" wheels will fit the 2008....initial results point to no. I'm now going to dive into the Forum and read away! Happy Holidays!