oskar27

As mentioned in my first post the interior lights go off in about 6 minutes to prevent the battery loosing juice + I had done this many times before with no problems. This time it was different because I guess the battery got too old. In any case I installed a new battery + replaced the batteries in the keyfob and following that the car started with the first crank. Since I like to keep the doors open after washing the car in the winter inside my garage. I may install a gadget I had installed years ago in a Passat I had. The mechanic installed this heavy duty switch under the hood and flipping the switch the battery was disconnected.

Much appreciated omar Finally I got where the backup slot is, actually I was looking for a slot but it is as you mentioned a tray. So this is set (had to see a YouTube to understand it) I agree with the batteries, first I will get 2 new cells for the keyfob and if that’s not the problem I will get a new battery. (not an OEM but from a reputable local chain and as far as I know very few buy OEM batteries) Luckily the store is not that far so I should be able to do both quite fast. Thanks

Thanks akirby, that sound too easy!

BTW forgot to mention that on Dec-02 I had an appointment at the dealer for oil change etc. and at the same time these guys produce a check list, which I get a copy, stating all the fluids level etc including the battery and in that list the battery is marked 85% good but on the cranking amps there is no indication what I have

I may have to change the battery and looking at it stuck into that cavity I find it a very difficult place to work. I see there is a bracket in the front of the battery and at the bottom holding the battery to the base with one bolt and I assume there is not one also at the back because if there is one it will be inaccessible. Since I have to remove the negative terminal first I hope I can slide the battery enough towards the front to get access to the terminals bolt. Any tips before I dive into it?

Once or twice per year I wash/wax my Edge inside my garage, first I wash it and let it dry overnight with all doors open (the interior lights go out automatically after about 6 min) and the following day I wax. I do this since I got the car and never had a problem before except now. I went today to start and noticed the messages in the dash were different than it used to be but I didn’t pay attentions because from before I knew I just press the brake pedal and then the start button and of she goes. But it didn’t start, I could hear some kind of a noise but it was not the engine turning neither the starter humming, more like it sounded like a wining of something electrical. After a few tries now I get/hear nothing, completely dead. I only have 39K kilometers (mostly highway) and never had any problem before. Looking in the manual it says on page 152 to insert the intelligent key into the backup slot (inside the floor console storage) but I don’t see any slot to insert the key (I only have in this console a 12V socket). One of the messages I noticed in the dash it was saying “press to start or insert the key in the console” but pressing to start didn’t do anything so I thought it may need the key in that slot which I don’t have it. So what's the purpose of this key if I don't have this slot? I called the dealer and he said since my battery is almost 5 years old perhaps the battery has no more juice and he suggested to boost the battery and give it a try. I have 2 sets of intelligent access keys, one I never used and the other I change the batteries last January. Neither does anything now, the car is completely dead. Any ideas what may have happened?

Thanks for the info, will do so.

What is your experience with rust in your Edge? Obviously this question should be answered mostly by owners in the northern states where the highways and roads are salted during the winter months. My 2016 Edge Titanium is rust free so far but I don’t expect to be so lucky for very long. I live in Montreal Canada and our roads are regularly salted during the winter. Normally I Ziebart rustproofing my new cars when new but with my Edge, due to various reasons, I didn’t. Last September when I call for an appointment the earliest appointment I could get was end of November so I gave up again. Now I will do myself some rustproofing the best I can and in the spring I will take her for a good rustproofing, better late than never, I guess.

To my opinion the rough idle speed was due to "bad gas" I filled at a gas station. Normally I always fill up at the same station but sometimes I don't and that was my problem. Never had any problem since

Thanks onyxbfly for your time I do have 2 USB ports in my car and they both work fine. I also Googled “SIRI” and I understand SIRI is only used if I have an Apple phone and since I don’t use Apple products this is one less headache for me. Anyway I was going thru the instruction steps from my manual on how to activate voice control and at the end it said press the voice button on the steering wheel. When I did that a message in the Synch screen said “Turn off Airplane mode” on your phone. I did that and now the voice commands works! I never understood why airplane mode will come ON sometimes by itself, it happened to me before. So now I will try to remember this.

I have my 2016 Edge Titanium since new and at the beginning I had a Samsung phone which I set it up to work with the Sync and all was fine including the voice command. Recently I changed my Samsung for a Motorola6 and I was able to connect it to the Sync and all look good. That’s my phone book was transferred to the car and I could use this phone book to call/receive but I had no voice commands.. Only recently I noticed that the voice activation was not working. Went thru the commands and in the cars phone menu there is the icon “Siri”. When I press it it says my phone is not connected properly and to look into my phone setup. Pressing the voice button in my steering wheel does nothing. Any idea on what to look up in my phone to get the voice activated?

Let me clarify Perhaps its true if you move and go far away from the original dealer but in my case I was in the same town and I wanted to go to another dealer because I didn’t like to deal with the same salesman. Ford Credit told me that I must go to the same dealer and that’s what I did

My experience was the same but I also learned you must go to the same dealer you got the car leased to finalize the title transfer. I went to another Ford dealer and they wouldn’t touch it. BTW.. my Edge also has been a great car

Thanks for your time, I understand and makes sense.

In my present house I had no problem to get the Homelink on my Titanium 2016 Edge working the first time however I’m moving to a new condo soon and I was told by the condo admin my Homelink will not work with their garage doors and I have to buy an opener they sell for $80.00. This is a high rise luxury condo and I know to make extras keys for my front door I can’t go to any local store to make a copy but rather go to a licensed locksmith and show proper ID to get my extra keys. So they do have some extra security in this building So the question is does the Ford Homelink works only on residential buildings or it is possible to program it for a condo? Anyone has similar experience?

Thanks for the help, I have been able to change my username and password. Username was before my old email and change it to my new email and it was accepted. New Password was also accepted. However typing my new email in the appropriate section says “Save Failed” and I do type it twice correctly. Anyway due to covid-19 I will not bother any more cause I think they are busy, perhaps I will try in.....next year. But I was able to change my email with Ford Credit and although it said after “system error” when I logged out and back again, it had my new email. Strange!

I switched to a new carrier and now I have a new email address. I go to my account in Ford, got my account info, click edit email address, I type it twice as needed, and then it says “Save Failed”. How can I change my email address?

Very interesting and happy to know about MACT Garage. Thanks for sharing

Omar302 seems you have a knack finding the right docs, thanks akirby I looked in mine and yes I only have 2 bolts too but looking at the docs omar302 sent it looks like it is more complicated. When the time comes I will have a closer look at all options

Good idea but expensive one if you only want to service the battery

Very good info provided including the .PDF files. I will also have a look on removing the cowl & wipers.

I agree, regardless how careful you are, the possibility exist to have a disaster if you first remove the positive terminal. I haven’t remove the battery yet but when I do I may discover that without disconnecting the positive cable first you can’t have proper access to the negative post. In that case I don’t know what I will do. I remember in old cars, 60’s and 70’s, when you removed the positive cable first you used to get sparks! (some times). In that case if the same happens now these sparks if they happened can burn a lot of sensitive electronics.

Thanks for the reply I noticed the front hold down and sound good what you describe. I’m not ready to do anything yet on the battery but most likely I will do so before or during the winter and I will post back the results.

Perhaps there is a procedure on how to remove the battery on the 2016 Edge (searching the web I found non) but as silly as it sounds I can’t see how it is done safely. As you can see on the attached picture, the negative post is located at the back end of the battery and to remove it, which as far as I know it’s the first to do, there is a free space of about 2” above the cable which is hardly enough to remove any of the 3 bolts I see on that post. The owners guide describes a procedure to reset the electronics after battery removal which is fine but there is nothing about the battery removal Anyone has done it or knows where I can get the procedure?