youri631

Glad to see some canadians fuel consumption figures here. lol Forget the window sticker as far as fuel economy figures go. They are useful to compare between vehicles, but there are no guarantee that they will represent real life consumption. These values are made using tests that does not necessarily represent driving reality. Whats even worse is the fact that canadian figures almost always show better consumption rating than american numbers. They updated the test in the states a few year ago to try an make them more realistic, but Canada did not update their test yet, so it is even less representative. I get about 15L/100km city, and between 9- 10.5 L/100km highway. I do a lot of highway so that brings my average down. Bottom line is, your Edge is fine.

Check this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/

I concur with the comments above, each TSB has a specific mentions on wether it is done for free (under warranty or not). Most of the time they are not free if the vehicle's warranty has expired. Keep in mind that a TSB is not meant to say that your specific vehicle will have the defect, they are use to tell mechanics that there is a known fix to common problem, in order to reduce troubleshooting time. In this case, the transmission falls under the power train warranty, which is different from the 3 year full coverage warranty. Mine was done for free under the powertrain warranty for free, even though the 3 year warranty has expired. As far as diagnostic fees, the dealer I took it to said that they wave the diagnostic fee if the problem is covered by warranty, but that they will charge me if they cannot replicate the issue or if it is not covered by warranty.

With regards to the step 5 note: Sorry for the mass confusion, but it is copy/pasted exactly from the repair manual My understanding is that the note only applies to step 5, meaning that the roof opening control switch must be held from the beginning of step 5 (sliding glass and sunshade moves together) to the end of step 5 (sunshades return to fully close position). The sun roof will go through different step in that process, but it have to be held down until the sunshade is fully closed again. I believe all steps are to be followed on their own, releasing the control switch every time it is mentioned to release it. in step 2, 3 and 4. If you look at the steps carefully, you will notice that they always start with: "Pull and hold the roof opening control switch" and always end with : "release the control switch" I can't test it right now, but let us know if it works or not.

With regards to the step 5 note: Sorry for the mass confusion, but it is copy/pasted exactly from the repair manual My understanding is that the note only applies to step 5, meaning that the roof opening control switch must be held from the beginning of step 5 (sliding glass and sunshade moves together) to the end of step 5 (sunshades return to fully close position). The sun roof will go through different step in that process, but it have to be held down until the sunshade is fully closed again. I believe all steps are to be followed on their own, release the control switch every time it is mentioned to release it. in step 2, 3 and 4. If you look at the steps carefully, you will notice that they always start with: "Pull and hold the roof opening control switch" and always end with : "release the control switch" With regards to the manual, I am talking about the repair manual. there is a link to it on this post: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/ With regards to jlpeake comment: the opening control switch both opens and close the roof, depending on wether you hold down on it or press up on it. Pull and hold the roof opening control switch would mean the action of closing the sun roof.

Looks good, good job with the install. Let us know in a few months how they hold up.

Let us know how it works out. As far as i know the edge does not have factory turn signal on the DRL, so that will be interesting to see if it works on yours.

These are not factory DRLs. I don't think they are DRLs from Daytime Brightlite, but if they are then I don't think you need a factory plug. Also he has video detailing the installation on his website: http://www.daytimebrightlites.com

No experience, but check on the link that was posted on this discussion to access the maintenance manual http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/

sounds like a pretty big project, the refreshed model (2011 and up) have fold flat seat on certain model (optional on the SEL and standard on the Sport, but not available on the SE and Limited). I it is a powered seat, with the exception of the backrest tilt/fold flat fonction which is manual, so there might be a possibility that you could find a way to put that tilting mechanism into your edge but I would not know how exactly.

Not sure if this is the exact reason in your case, but the car horn will sound twice if you try to lock the door while one of the door is not closed. If the keys were in your pocket, it is possible that the lock button may have been accidentally pressed while your door was open.

Look at Dan's video on this forum topic. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10977-headlights-in-my-2013-edge/page-2 Very easy to do, I still have to fork the money to do it on mine, but it does not seem like to much work. Make sure you buy a quality kit, and you should be fine. A few things to note, you may have issues with daytime running light (DRL) if they are activated (like they are here in Canada), if they are activated, they will either be set to the low beam on during the day, or to the yellow lights. If they are set to the low beam, you will have issues with the HID since there won't be enough power from the car to light them up during the day. You can get the dealer to change your DRL from the low beam to the yellow lights, but apparently this is a one way process and can't be reverted.

Rear brakes seizing is a common occurrence on most vehicles, if they are not serviced regularly. I am not proud to say that it recently happened on my ford edge (thankfully I found out early enough to prevent any disk or pad damage), but it also happened on my mazda 6 (seized open, leaving my disk to rust) and we would see it regularly on many different brands every year when we were doing charity tire swap event at work (winter tire to summer tire). Every vehicle regular maintenance typically includes lubrification of the callipers at different intervals and/or when replacing the pads and discs (a step that is often missed when people are changing their brake themselves). My wife's mazda 3 just came back for a regular services and the technician mentioned that rear calliper slider barrel cleaning/reaming was required. A good technician, dealership will identify issues like those, which will prevent the brakes from seizing. Bottom line, rear brakes are seizing all the time, regular preventive maintenance is the key to prevent it.

Looking at the initialization process from the the 2011 Ford Edge manual, there seem to be a slight difference in the method. Possibly pre-refresh (pre-2011) and after refresh. The 2011 manual states to pull and hold instead of press, people with the later model may have more success with these instructions. WARNING WARNING: Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. ROOF OPENING PANEL MOTOR INITIALIZATION NOTE: New roof opening panel glass motor/shade motors must be initialized after installation. NOTE: A de-initialized glass or shade motor will stutter step open when operated from the roof opening panel control switch. Start the engine. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sliding glass panel is in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sunshade panels are in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch (for at least 21 seconds). For a new drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop, stall and then move backward a few millimeters and then forward. For an existing drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. The sunshade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. After the sunshade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the roof opening panel control switch. NOTE: The roof opening panel control switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch. The sliding glass panel and sunshades will fully open together. Then, the sliding glass panel will close first and then the sunshades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the sunshades have stopped moving, release the roof opening panel control switch. 6. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5.

I can't tell you from experience, but here is the initialization process, copy/pasted from the 2011 Ford Edge Workshop manual. The language may be clearer. ROOF OPENING PANEL MOTOR INITIALIZATION NOTE: New roof opening panel glass motor/shade motors must be initialized after installation. NOTE: A de-initialized glass or shade motor will stutter step open when operated from the roof opening panel control switch. Start the engine. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sliding glass panel is in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch until the sunshade panels are in the fully CLOSED position. Release the control switch. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch (for at least 21 seconds). For a new drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop, stall and then move backward a few millimeters and then forward. For an existing drive assembly, the sliding glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. The sunshade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. After the sunshade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the roof opening panel control switch. NOTE: The roof opening panel control switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Pull and hold the roof opening panel control switch. The sliding glass panel and sunshades will fully open together. Then, the sliding glass panel will close first and then the sunshades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the sunshades have stopped moving, release the roof opening panel control switch. 6. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5.

Here is the topic on this forum for the re-initialization. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5259-sunroof-initialization/ It may work for you, but note that the same thing happened to me and re-initialization would not do it, and eventually got stuck in the open position. The dealer lubricated it, then told me they were going to have to disassemble the roof and changed the motor, but lubricated it again (or a different part) and it solved the problem. From memory, i think the sunroof has to close completely within 8 sec to be within spec. With everyone having issues, It seems to me that lubricating the sunroof rails should be part of a scheduled maintenance (once every year, or two year maybe) for proper operation.

Well, I did not have any bad experience with the brake booster, but my vehicle information on the ford Etis page says that there is an extended warranty on the brake booster for my edge. (Turns out there is already a topic on the extended warranty, see this forum page for the extended warranty pdf: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13888-13n02-extended-warranty-coverage-on-brake-booster/) Ford Etis page: http://www.etis.ford.com/ Good luck !

Check out this post by Spork, http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14394-first-mods-for-my-2011-edge-limited/ He installed running board on his Edge and as fas as I know is the only one I have seen with a good looking set of running board. Take in note however that the Edge Sport lower mouldings are painted rather than black, which may change how well integrated the running boards look.

A quick google search with the TSB number and it easily came up. TSB 11-12-10: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=176597 Notice that the TSB mentions: built on or before 4/15/2011. So this particular TSB may not apply to your vehicle, in that case TSB 13-08-13 you found earlier may be all that is required. l

This TSB is for the right issue. It mentions a rolling stop, not a full stop. However this TSB will only have them reprogram the PCM. Although I have not read it, you probably need TSB 11-12-10 for them to replace the separator plates (as per my previous post, this is the one referred to on my bill after they have done the work)

Sorry, I was away for a while. Not sure exactly how to find TSBs online. I found my receipt and here is what it says: ******* Replaced both separator plates, modify main control and program PCM per TSB 11-12-10. Installed 7T4Z 7Z490 D : Plate and gasket ASY Qty: 1 Installed BT4Z 7Z490 B: Plate and gasket ASY Qty: 1 Installed CXT 10 LV 12 : Fluid - Transmission. Qty : 6 Hope that helps.

Mine was doing the same thing, it would always happen around 40 km/h (sorry, canadian speed here) when i would slow down then gently give gas again. The transmission would not shift immediately and then would shift in a very hard way. I took it to the dealer and they did the TSB for free. It is a lot better now and havent noticed it lately. Getting the shop to diagnose it was a little bit tricky as they will charge you if they don't replicate the problem and decide not to fix it. I agree with jackman, print the TSB and bring it to a trusted dealership you have a good relationship with.

I sent you the info by PM My system does say 12285_Product, any idea why Ford's website and my dealer say that I am up to date ?

Vehicle health report are only available in the united states, and I am in Canada. My version on syncmyride is probably right, it is just odd that my update to V.3.5.1 appears twice, once as the last update and once in 2010.

Well, support.ford.com says that I am on version V3.5.1, but that I am up to date. To be fair, my sync history on that website seems pretty screwed up. To be more accurate, how can I confirm from the vehicle which version I am running ? I also sent you my vin# by PM. Thank You