TheWizard

Only if you have the optional $795 voice activated navigation system. Otherwise your trial subscription includes only the regular SiriusXM music, news and talk channels although there are a handful of traffic talk channels for select cities that basically do nothing but traffic and weather reports every few minutes all day and night. Those are on channels 132 through 140 (Miami/Orlando/Tampa-St. Pete is on channel 136). Both the Traffic and TravelLink are visual aids although the Traffic system also has audible alerts in addition to marking the displayed road maps with colors and icons indicating traffic problems. The TravelLink portion can display a weather map with radar information as well as local forecasts. It can also display a list of local gas stations with their recent selling price, movie listings for selected theaters, sports scores and schedules, and stock prices.

Traffic and TravelLink are part of the Sirius subscription (technically they're separate add-on features from SiriusXM). Both are activated during the free trial period but after that expires you have to maintain your own Sirius subscription to get the add-ons. Traffic is $3.99 per month and a Traffic/TravelLink combination is available for $5.99 per month (TravelLink gives you weather, gas prices, movie times and other information).

Garmin does. It merely assumes you will continue on the same road and announces traffic alerts ahead on that same road - whether you have set a destination or not. The funny glitch it has is that it will often say "heavy traffic in 24,901 miles" as you pass a reported problem... that's approximately the circumference of the Earth but I figure the traffic will be cleared by the time I drive that far. :D

Kelley Blue Book lists a 2012 Edge Limited (21,000 miles) without navigation at $28,841 dealer retail while the same vehicle with navigation goes for $29,606. That's a $765 difference that you should be entitled to IF you can prove it was promissed (the navigation option seems to have retained most of its $795 new value). The problem is that unless you have it in writing, you're going to have a tough time getting anything. Dealer sales contracts always have a clause stating that the written contract is the entire agreement and that anything else that anyone may have said is not binding. If the dealer wants to keep your business, you may get some sort of goodwill adjustment like some free oil changes or something but otherwise I wouldn't expect anything more than an apology (if that).

Having spent many years in the parts business in my youth, I can tell you that electrical parts are generally not returnable because counter people have no way to know if the returned part is functional or even the same part. Some people will return the bad part after replacing it. Some people will damage the new part in the same way as the one they're replacing because they don't know there's another problem causing the part to fail. Many people will just try multiple parts looking for a solution to an electrical problem without doing any testing or diagnostics and then want to return the parts they didn't need. I can't tell you how many customers I had at a Toyota dealer where I worked in the late '70s who wanted to buy a turn signal flasher module (which cost about $20 at the time) because one side would flash but the other wouldn't. Many would not listen to my advice that they only needed to replace a burned out bulb on the non-flashing side until I told them that the module was not returnable. Their choice... a 79 cent bulb or a $20 module (plus the 79 cent bulb when the module didn't solve the problem). BTW, the dealer was Scarborough Toyota in the "Golden Mile" area of Eglinton Avenue - I have no idea if it's still there or not. Comments made earlier are also correct - merely installing a panel and switches will not give you functioning seat position memory nor a power tailgate. There are many other (expensive) components involved. Don't waste your money buying the switches unless you plan to make this a project and get all the other required components.

It is not unusual for a new engine to experience oil consumption. I know of some 5.0 Coyote engines that lose as much as a quart in 2,000 miles until they get broken in. If the oil hadn't been checked for nearly 10K miles it's quite possible it could be down three quarts. Get the oil changed and then monitor oil consumption for the next few thousand miles. You should find that it has stopped or at least slowed to a small amount now that the engine is broken in.

I'd be happy with the original version (white only) if there were any still in stock anywhere. Anybody have the all white ones that will be upgrading to the white/amber ones and might want to part with their originals?

Yes, that's exactly right - the hazard lights are designed to flash at the same rate regardless of how many bulbs are out (if any). The turn signals are designed to "hyper flash" to indicate to the driver that there is a bulb out. LED bulbs have virtually no resistance compared to standard incandescent bulbs and the BCM reads that as a bulb out. Adding a 6-ohm resistor mimics the resistance of the filament in an incandescent bulb and makes the BCM flash at normal speed. I just posted yesterday in another thread a solution to the installation of resistors for the rear signals. You can find the rear turn signal power wires in the harness behind the left kick panel (next to the driver's "dead pedal"). Left rear wire is gray with orange and right rear wire is green with orange. There is plenty of space there to connect the resistors without worrying about their heat affecting other wires or plastic trim. I actually used a dual load equalizer from Signal Dynamics because I was familiar with them from riding Gold Wing and it was more convenient than separate resistors. One module handles the resistance for both sides and it has a heat sink housing that mounts conveniently to the metal panel behind the kick panel trim. http://www.signaldynamics.com/index.php/products/led-lighting?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=37&category_id=44 Your other option is to buy CAN-BUS LED bulbs that have the resistor built-in but they are generally nowhere near as bright as other LED replacement bulbs.

Well I learned a couple of things this weekend that you might find interesting. First, the rear turn signals don't use 3156 single filament bulbs as you would expect. For some reason Ford put 3157 dual filament bulbs back there despite the fact that the dim filament never gets used. Second, the reflectors on the turn signals (both front and back) are oddly shaped and don't work well with many LED bulb designs. I have been doing this kind of replacement for several years now so I have quite a collection of different types of 3157 LED bulbs lying around. The 27-watt bulbs I ordered work fairly well in the front but look terrible in the back. They're very bright but have limited difference in brightness between dim and bright so they are hard to distinguish when using the signals with the headlights on. For the back, I found that a pair of older 92 SMT 3157 tower bulbs from V-LEDs outperformed anything else I could find. Technically, they don't have the power of many newer bulbs with fewer but more powerful LEDs but the sheer number of LEDs on the tower makes them fill out the reflector much more effectively and they look much brighter for that reason. Unfortunately, V-LEDs only makes them in the CK version now so I had to look elsewhere for front bulbs. I found some 120 SMT tower bulbs at autolumination.com that should do the job nicely... I'll know when they arrive in a few days. Finally, I found a convenient way to handle the resistors for the back. The front bulbs were no problem because there is plenty of space to install resistors allowing space for the heat they produce. The space behind the tail lights is quite cramped so I was concerned that the resistors could possibly melt some plastic or the insulation on adjacent wires. Consulting the wiring schematic, I discovered that the tail light wires all run from the BCM behind the left kick panel. I pulled the panel, found the correct color wires in the harness next to the driver's "dead" pedal, double checked them with a meter, and was able to install the resistors for both sides there with plenty of airspace around them. The colors you need are gray with orange for the left rear signal and green with orange for the right rear signal. The orange tracers are straight on both wires - there are a couple of wires the same colors but with spiral tracers. The wires are both about 18 gauge... there's also a larger 12 gauge green with orange in the harness that isn't the one you want. Unlike DBEDGE23, I was unable to avoid the hyper-flash without the resistors even though I was using the same 92 M-SMT bulbs in the back. I suspect that it might be due to minor differences in the sensitivity of the body control module and possibly the resistance of the individual bulbs. In any case, it wasn't difficult to install resistors and I'm happy with the results.

No problem at all... I never mind explaining one of the (few) things I know the most about if it can be helpful to someone.

Higher octane is more resistant to pre-ignition and detonation (knock) allowing more ignition timing advance which in turn creates more power. Recent Ford engines - in particular the EcoBoost series and the 5.0 Coyote - have a new power control module (PCM) that incorporates "adaptive timing". The new PCM works in conjunction with the knock sensors to advance the timing as far as practical for the octane of fuel in use so there is more timing advance (hence more power) with higher octane than with regular 87 octane. Older engines (in particular, the non-EcoBoost 3.5L V6) also have knock sensors but they are programmed to work in the opposite direction. The PCM has a preset amount of ignition timing advance programmed that it will reduce if the knock sensors detect a problem from lower octane or bad fuel. Since the PCM is programmed with its maximum timing advance based on regular 87 octane fuel, using higher octane provides no benefit. My old LS1 Trans Am was also programmed that way but based on 91 octane "premium" fuel. It would run on 87 octane without damage but the performance and mileage suffered significantly due to the timing being retarded by the PCM to avoid engine knock. On the other hand, it gained nothing by running on 93 octane because it wasn't programmed to advance the timing beyond the 91 octane starting point. The point is that higher octane fuel by itself will not increase either performance or mileage - additional tuning in the form of ignition timing advance is required to take advantage of the increased octane. EDIT: I should mention that in some areas of the country, premium fuel is not just higher octane but also ethanol free. That would make a significant difference in both mileage and performance because gas has 35% more energy than ethanol. But I don't think that would apply to you because I don't think there's anywhere in Florida that does that.

Feel free to believe whatever you want but having worked for the largest Shell joint venture in the southeast for nearly 15 years, I can tell you that your results indicate a problem with the PCM in your vehicle not managing ignition timing advance properly or the knock sensors malfunctioning. Because it is a fact that there is no more energy in "premium" (higher octane) gas than there is in regular (87 octane) and therefore a properly functioning engine designed for regular gas will not run better on higher octane gas. However, running higher octane is probably cheaper than fixing the problem - at least until it gets worse - so I'd stick with it if I were you. Just don't assume it proves anything about octane in gas.

I haven't gotten to the rear lights yet - I'll probably do them this weekend - so I'm not sure about mounting the resistors. But you're right, they need to be located so that the heat they generate won't cause problems. They don't need a lot of air space but they should not be in contact with other wires or plastic panels. The front is easy because there's lots of space (and lots of air flow) but the back is more confining. I'll let you know after I install them this weekend.

Yes, the CAN-Bus bulbs eliminate the need for separate resistors but they aren't as bright as some of the other LED bulbs available. I just replaced the front turn signal bulbs this weekend with the 45-LED tower 3157 bulbs from Superbrightleds. I had the same ones in my Mustang and was quite pleased but the different shape of the Edge reflector makes them quite disappointing. In fact, they aren't as bright as the original incandescent bulbs and they wash out in bright sunlight. I have ordered the 27-watt Eagle Eye SMT tower bulbs from autolumination.com and should have them by the weekend. A 27-watt LED bulb should be blinding bright in most housings but we'll see what they look like in the Edge. I have the same design 14-watt bulbs in my Mustang now as DRL and turn signals and you can see them from a mile away. Beware of V-LED bulbs as they are very heat sensitive (e.g. they cannot be used for daytime running lights - I tried and they all failed within a couple of months). I've never had a problem with either the superbrightled or autolumination bulbs. I haven't tried my 3156 bulbs in the rear yet. They're also the 45-LED tower bulbs but the rear reflector is a different design so they may work better than the front.

Thanks, I'll have a look there.

The "stock" Edge Limited wheels are 18" chrome with 10 equal-sized spokes. The optional wheels are 20" chrome that Ford calls 5-spoke but each spoke has a split near the rim that makes them look like a 10-spoke. The spokes are not as evenly spaced as the 18" wheels and have a wider, flattened area near the rim. The stock 18" and 20" wheel/tire combinations are essentially the same - they have nearly identical total diameter and revolutions per mile (only a 0.24% difference) so unless one wheel is significantly heavier than the other, there should be no significant difference in mileage. The 22" wheel/tire combinations are somewhat larger (2.6% larger and no doubt heavier as well) so I would expect somewhere around 5% reduction in mileage... from 30 mpg down to about 28.5 mpg.

Sorry, no... that applies to vehicles that have the front and rear turn signals on the same circuit for each side (i.e. the good old fashioned mechanical turn signal switch). The Edge has separate computerized circuits for each bulb so you will need four 6-ohm resistors - one for each corner.

You will probably need 6-ohm resistors but you can try the 3-ohm ones and see if they work. You want to connect the resistors from the turn signal power wire to ground for each side. On the front left that would be the blue/green power wire to the black/green ground wire. On the front right it would be yellow/purple power to black/gray ground. You may find you also need to do the same thing at the back. If so, you want the gray/orange power to the black/gray ground on the left and the green/orange power to black/green ground on the right. The "hyper flash" is designed as an indicator that you have one or more bulbs burned out. LED bulbs cause that condition because they have essentially no resistance compared to the filament of an ordinary incandescent bulb. The hazard signal circuit does not have a hyper flash mode - it will flash at the same speed regardless of how many bulbs are burned out. Adding resistors makes the turn signal circuit "see" the expected resistance so that it doesn't indicate burned out bulbs. Typical 3156 and 3157 bulbs have about 6-ohms resistance in their filament so your 3-ohm resistors may still cause hyper flashing even if properly installed.

I am installing strobe lights in my 2013 Edge and I'm having difficulty finding an accessible location to pass a couple of wires through the firewall into the passenger compartment. The strobe flasher module is installed under the hood and I need to get wiring to two switches (on/off and flash pattern) being mounted in the dash. Anybody know of an existing grommet someplace that I can pass a couple of wires through?

Can't you leave the ignition in the Accessory position to prevent it shutting off?

Maybe that's my problem... I bought it from a Southern Ford dealer, maybe I need to use a southern accent! :D

<rant> I think SYNC stands for "Sorry, You're Not Connected" or maybe something else that means "planned disobedience". I half expect to say "increase fan speed" and have it respond "shutting off engine". At least in my Mustang I can mostly ignore it. There are real, physical, moving buttons and knobs for the climate and audio system including radio presets. My wife's Edge with MyFord Touch has almost completely done away with knobs and switches so you have to make SYNC voice commands work unless you want to be looking away from the road at the touch screen or dash menu. For example, instead of changing fan speed with a knob I could easily reach by touch, I have to look at the center stack to find the touch controls. Great safety item! Who's brilliant idea was that? I don't just blame Ford... all the manufacturers seem to be doing away with common sense controls in favor of touch screens and menus. It seems the object is not to make the vehicle better but to make it more marketable to the video game generation. That would be the same generation who won't even know what "clockwise" means because they've never used an analog clock. </rant> Anybody else feel the same?

You still have drive-ins? Man, I miss those.

They figured $400 for parts and labor that they were going to add onto the sales agreement. I found the kit online for $189 so I figure I can save a couple hundred dollars installing them myself. Thanks for the information!

Hey Gimp, can you tell us more about installing the rails? I am taking delivery of my Edge this weekend (dealer trade) and it has everything I want except the roof rails. I know I can buy the rails from the parts department as an accessory kit but I was told it would be $400 for the dealer to install them. I have a fairly complete set of tools and I know how to use them so is installation something an average shade-tree mechanic can do?