TheWizard

It's even more difficult to get an electric cart in. I don't advise it.

I'm confused... what is the purpose of the relay? The LEDs can't possibly draw much current so couldn't they be powered directly off the ignition switched circuit with the fuse tap? Then the OEM connector could be used to maintain the original courtesy function and as a trigger to switch the LEDs to 70% brightness? That would have eliminated the relay, the red and black power wires, and the white headlight trigger wire.

Yes, left and right are always determined from the driver's position so that there is no question of which way the viewer is facing.

Has New Jersey been returned to the British again (so that you drive from the right hand side of the vehicle)?

Yep, except that like many Microsoft products, Ford StYNC is a euphemism for "planned disobedience".

Autolumination.com sells both types. Look for the "CAN-BUS" version on their website to avoid the hyper-flash issue. Personally I prefer using external resistors because you can put them on the turn signal side of the circuit and still have reduced current draw advantage of LEDs for the parking lights.

The address entry screen attempts to speed input by limiting the available keys to those that match what's in its database. Sometimes you have to work down from state and city first then street name then number because it will only let you enter certain values. For example, if there are no house numbers on a street that start with anything other than a 1, the 1 will be the only key available (e.g. all the houses on my street are in the 10,000 range). It can be helpful because as soon as I enter JAC, it automatically fills in JACKSONVILLE and then B becomes the only key available in case I want Jacksonville Beach as the city. I know it should assume that the state and city would be where you are at the moment but it doesn't always seem to do that and you can only correct it by manually selecting the state and city.

Sorry guys - I've fixed the link. Switchbacks have amber LEDs on the "bright" (turn signal) circuit and white LEDs on the "dim" (parking light) circuit. In your case, the DRLs and the turn signals will be amber. At night, the lamps will be white but the turn signals will continue to flash amber. It's up to you whether you get the AW type which will alternate white and amber when flashing at night or the AO type which will flash amber and off at night (both types will flash amber/off during the day). The page I linked has an animation of the two different bulb types to give you a better idea how they look.

The difficulty finding "type 1" or "type 2" bulbs may come from the fact that only V-LEDs uses those designations. Check out http://www.autolumination.com/switchback.html . They designate theirs as AW (amber-white) or AO (amber-off) depending on how the turn signals flash and they have both types in stock.

Too bad repeating yourself isn't enough to make you right. Check out the application guides on any of the online parts sites (such as partscheap.com or even Ford's own site accessories.ford.com... both say kit DA8Z-19G364-A fits "Edge - Without Push Button Start WIth Power Liftgate"). Or just check the PDF file linked in the earlier post. Line 10 shows 2013 Edge without push button start and without power liftgate requires the complete kit with antenna and cabling. Line 11 shows 2013 Edge without push button start with power lifgtgate requires only the kit with the two 5-button key fobs. Both have the notation that vehicles without an existing hood switch will require a switch.

No, that's not what I said. On a 2013 Edge with power liftgate, you MAY need the hood switch (check and see if you have one from the factory) but other than that, you only need the kit containing the two key fobs (and have the dealer program it on). The antenna is not required for this situation. Only Edge models without the power liftgate must buy the kit that includes the antenna and extra cabling.

It appears that 2013 Edges with power liftgate have everything except the key fobs and programming already installed in the vehicle from the factory. The kit DA8Z-19G364-A consists of nothing but two key fobs. On the other hand, models without the power liftgate apparently don't have the requisite additional equipment and so require the BC3Z-19G364-A kit which includes the antenna, coax cable and two key fobs. The hood switch is not included in either kit. Most listings say "remote hood switch required if not already equipped". The switch part number is BT4Z-19G366-A. You can look under your hood to see if you already have one - it's a plunger type switch near the right headlight.

Actually, the 20" wheels and tires by themselves have no significant impact on mileage - they are within a couple of millimeters of the same diameter as the 18" wheels/tires. 245/60-18 overall diameter = 751mm, 245/50-20 overall diameter = 754mm. The difference would be because Ford put different rear end gear ratios with 20" wheels... 3.39:1 for 20" wheels, 3.16:1 for 18" wheels. This means that you are running the engine at higher RPM for the same road speed with the 20" wheels - causing somewhat lower gas mileage (about 7% or about 2mpg on a V6).

Am I going color blind? The photo makes the wire look light blue but the manual says it should be purple with gray. And where did the ground wire go? I suppose it wouldn't be the first time a schematic has been wrong but it seems odd.

No it's a 3.7L V6. I've upgraded the gears for a little more torque but at my age I was looking for more of a cruiser (convertible) than a performance car. I've had everything from a Boss 351 Mustang back in the day to an LS1 Trans Am until a couple of years ago but the current Mustang is the best I've owned and I find 300+ horsepower and 30 mpg to be a great combination!

You don't remove the shifter boot to remove the panel... it's actually the other way around - you remove the panel to get to the shifter boot. 1. Remove the two side trim pieces that go alongside the cupholder panel and up the sides of the center stack. 2. Put the shifter in neutral (parking brake ON!). 3. Remove two screws on each side of the selector lever/cupholder trim panel. 4. Lift up the panel and unclip the shifter boot from underneath. Also disconnect any electrical connectors (should only apply to ambient lighting) 5. Turn and remove the panel over the shifter.

They should just pop off with a little prying. Be careful not to lose them by popping them too hard. A good way to avoid that is to lay a shop towel over the top as you pry from one side... the towel will keep them from flying away.

Yes, the shifter is illuminated but no, that isn't the wire for it. The shifter illumination has a purple/gray power wire and a black/gray ground wire. The only blue wire I could find in the console is for the ambient lighting but that would be combined with orange, green, and brown wires for the cupholder illumination.

Remove the small cover on the wiper arm above the pivot point. Remove the nut under the cover. Use a two jaw puller to remove the arm from the splined pivot point. A handy tip is to use an awl (or a small dab of nail polish) to mark the pivot point and wiper arm so that you can align it to install in the same position. If you don't have a puller, it is possible to remove the arm by prying but it isn't recommended. I have seen broken windshields and other damage caused by prying on wiper arms. If you are near a Harbor Freight store, they have puller kits for under $20 (on sale right now for $13.49).

Use this tire size calculator to find what sizes might work for you: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator/

Why use 89 mid-grade or 91 premium when the car only needs 87 regular? If you're concerned about economics (mileage), using higher octane than necessary is just throwing your money away. Even with the very slight increase in mileage possible (with SOME Ford engines) because of the additional timing advance, the difference is not enough to compensate for the added cost of the fuel.

I'm confused... how would LED DRLs (Daytime Running Lights - I've never seen them called DTR before) affect your batteries? They're only on when the ignition is on (alternator is supplying power rather than the battery) and the current draw is so small (milliamps) that they should have no impact at all on batteries. I have replaced the front and rear turn signal bulbs with LEDs so that they can be strobed and the strobes can be run for hours (literally) with the engine off without causing any significant drain on the battery. Or are we not talking about the main battery in the engine compartment? Something special for your audio upgrades perhaps? I'm always curious about those kinds of modifications.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. (you can probably do this in your driveway without a hoist)Remove the 5 RH front fender splash shield screws. Pull the RH front fender splash shield downward to access the horn. Disconnect the electrical connector.Remove the bolt and the horn. To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Don't tell them. Removing the switch involves only removing the three screws from the lower column trim cover and pulling off the cover, turning the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left so that you can access the switch screws, removing the two switch screws and pulling the switch out. No more than 15 minutes, tops.

Sorry, I went through the manual and found that the multifunction switch actually plugs in directly to the Steering Column Control Module (that's why there is no harness involved). The SCCM processes input from the switch and sends a message to the Body Control Module over the network to activate the requested function (signals, high beam, etc.). There is no procedure in the manual for testing the switch itself - problems with the switch are diagnosed by deduction rather than by direct testing. The procedure is to connect a scan tool, turn the ignition on, select "Network Test" on the scan tool and perform the network test on the SCCM. If the SCCM passes the network test then replace the multifunction switch otherwise move on to other network testing. I'm sure the switch is an expensive part so I would hate to buy one and then find out it's not the problem. It looks like only a 15 minute job to replace the switch so maybe you know someone with the same year Edge that wouldn't mind letting you swap the switch for testing purposes.