Cyberdave

You're lucky! If it matters Consumer Reports gave the LX25 a lower score than the LX20. I looked at options and decided to go with Falken Ziex CT60 A/S. While they are not rated as highly as the LX25 by CR, in looking at other professional reviews and user reviews it sounded like a great tire. My other cars have used Falken for years and they've always been good. And I'm not giving Continental another dime! It should be noted in my research I found a lot of people complaining about the LX20 and/or Continental in general and trying to get them to replace their tires for breach of warranty for premature wear or other problems. It's worth looking into. I also noticed that the UTQG rating on the LX20 was 680 and the new tires of both are 740. I guess we'll see if that makes a difference. So far I haven't noticed any difference between the LX20 and the Falken's. We recently had snow and they worked fine.

So to follow up (and I posted a longer one in the thread I referenced previously), the LX20's only lasted 34k miles on my car which I am very disappointed with considering what they are supposed to be.

Hey folks, I'm coming back to do a follow up on the review and wear of this tire. I have since put 34k miles on them and had them rotated and aligned. Today when I took the car in for another rotation they said the tread wear was unsafe and I needed new tires. They gave me a quote which included a warranty discount from Continental for not making it to the 60k or 70k guaranteed life. The quote was for the updated LX25. I said I would think about it. I got it home and measured them myself. Am very disappointed in this tire and the tread wear and not even making it through over half of what was supposed to be the life time wear. I figured if I made it to 50k miles that would be fine. But 34k?! F Continental! Why would I buy another set of Continentals that only make it through half the supposed tread life? I have to find something else.

A few years ago I was going to be leaving my car in the driveway for a month as I was going out of town and the driveway was on a little incline. I didn't want a problem while I was gone so I put on the emergency brake. I get back a month later and once I started driving I realized there was a problem with the brakes. I had it looked at and the rear brakes were toast! That was a $700 mistake I will not forget! I had parked the car facing my garage. The guy at the Ford dealer told me I didn't need to use the emergency brake if I parked the other way around, that the "engine brake" or something would lock and keep the car from moving. That's what he told me anyway. At any rate, now I don't use the emergency brake unless there really is a need to and that means almost never. I moved so I don't have that driveway anymore.

This is turning into a really weird story if you want to know. Once I knew what it was (and after looking at a video online), I looked under the car and saw each exhaust had one. I couldn't see the one behind the exhaust but I saw the one in the front. As you can see from this photo it looks different, it's not the same one. I looked under my other car and nope not that one either. The road in front of my house is a busy one and it's bumpy but people don't often realize that. My theory is that someone going too fast over the bump lost theirs and it bounced into my driveway!

I did some googling and it looks like probably the answer is NO!

Ok thanks! Do you think it is OK to drive the car until I can get it put back on?

2013 Edge AWD Since it fell out onto the driveway I assume it probably came from the Brakes, Chassis or Suspension? Or maybe something related? Should I be concerned? Thanks for any info!

I took the car into Ford and they looked into it. They said that the brake light switch was sticking (which is why pressing the brake pedal again would turn the lights back off) and they were able to reproduce the problem even on level ground. They claimed it was not related to the booster/master cylinder work. They replaced it - $30 for the part and $135 for labor.

Yes rear brake lights with spoiler light. Yes only on inclines (other ones I've parked on too) and not on level ground. I dont use cruise control but I could try it. With more testing I found that when I turn the car back on, I just need to press the brake pedal and not put it in gear, then turn it off, in order for pressing the remote to get the car to lock with no brake light on.

This is the weirdest thing. 2013 Edge SEL. The brake booster was replaced (under warranty) along with the master cylinder about 6 weeks ago by a local Ford dealer. Last week I parked in my driveway which is on a slight incline and when pressing the remote to lock the car the rear brake lights stayed on. (I am NOT using the emergency brake. ) I tried using the remote to unlock and relock the car and it didn't work. I got in the car and turned it on and off and that didn't work and finally what worked was turning the car on, putting it in drive, putting it back in park, then turning it off. Then get out and lock with the remote and the brake lights turned off. This happens when the car is parked either front in or backed in. It does not happen when the car is just on the street or in a parking lot on level ground. It is the weirdest damn thing! Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? Could it be related to the brake work that was done? Or something else? I haven't taken it in yet but I'm going to have to. ... Thanks!

When trying to decide what tires to replace for my car I looked at the LX20, Bridgestone 422 ECOPIA, and some kind of hybrid like the Toyo Celsius CUV. I really couldn’t afford to get two sets of tires – all season and winter tires. I needed one set of tires which would be good with snow but also good all around in general. By good with snow I mean not just starting from a stop which is not a problem with AWD but stopping and going around curves. My Michelin Latitudes after they down to about 6/32s would no longer stop properly on snow, the ABS kicked in and the car kept sliding. I did a completely new (google) search for all season tires good on snow and two tires came up. Nokian WR G3 and Toyo Celsius. I had never heard of Nokian before nor about the Celsius. The first thing I looked at was a report by Consumer Reports about these tires being a new inbetween tire – inbetween all season and winter – being called an All Weather tires. In their tests CR said both tires were very good. I began to look into them in more detail. While numerous Nokians were available at Discount Tire near me for my wife’s Subaru Forester, they were not for the Edge. But the Celsius were available from Ford and the Ford site showed them as including not only a generous $140 in rebates but a “No Regrets Trial” period from Toyo – 45 days or 500 miles. I checked the Toyo site and it said the trial was either exchange or refund. Since only the Toyos were available for me, I looked into those and found a number of independent car sites who tested the tires in winter and said the test results were good. I also looked up and found a number of tire sites with consumer reviews from people who would want a tire like that in the northern US states and Canada. The reviews were all mostly positive, people liked the tires and they worked well. There were however a few people who complained that the tires didn’t seem to be able to be balanced properly, that there was noise and vibration. One person complained that when they were going between 60 and 70 mph the car started vibrating. Given the number of other positive reviews and the fact that tires can vary by vehicle and maybe there were install problems with those people, I would probably be OK with getting the tires. So I decided to get them. I was really hoping they would be great because I didn’t want to go through the bother of returning them. I kept my old tires just in case. After installation I checked the tires pressure and tread. The tread depth was uniformly 10/32. I did some driving around. I had read that some people said these tires had more rolling resistance and as a result they would get a couple less mpg. I noticed that on first driving them. They didn’t seem any noisier than the Michelin’s either by listening or by using a sound measuring app on my phone. What did seem more pronounced however was the tires transmitted bumps and other imperfections in the road. It got worse when I went over 45 mph on a less than perfect road and on the highway. On the highway (around here) there is a bump every 50? Feet and so it felt like I was driving over a washboard. I can see now how someone would describe that as increased vibration. The tires were balanced correctly because they worked fine on perfect stretches of road. The problem of course is that where I live there aren’t too many stretches of perfect road. I decided to return them. I have a theory about why the tires were a problem on my CUV but yet why they may be fine on other people’s sedans. I noticed that the tires had a different profile than the Michelin’s. The Michelin’s don’t look like they are inflated all the way whereas these looked like they were overinflated. When I took them back to Ford service the guy checked them because he said they looked over inflated. I am wondering if this is due to a firmer sidewall which makes the tires less flexible and thus more prone to transmitting road vibrations. My car has a firm suspension so it needs a tire that has a more comfortable and flexible ride. A firm suspension coupled with a less flexible tires means more vibrations and noise. So a car, a sedan, with a more cushioned suspension may work just fine with these tires. (I'm sure the rubber formula is a factor also.) Anyway about 5 days later I went back to the dealer to talk to service about returning them. They said I would have to talk to the parts manager and they were out that day so I had to go back a couple days later. I figured there was going to be some red tape and this could take some time. When I went back they had to figure it out but it didn’t end up taking that long. One gotcha though is that while the trial gives you a refund of the cost for mounting and balancing, when you have your own tires put back on, you have to pay for that. So it cost me $80 for a trial of the tires. But at least I got a refund for everything else. I think also I was fortunate that this dealer is customer friendly and oriented. One who goes to a less friendly dealer may end up having more problems returning them. Also note that on Consumer Reports tests, the Celcius rates at 64, the Nokian at 66, and the Conti LX20 at the top at 74. I describe the Conti LX20 which I ended up getting in the post "Anyone have Conti CrossContact LX20 experience?" and that's what I remain with, probably the best bet for the money for me anyway.

As previously mentioned I got the LX20 and at this point that was 8 months ago and about 2k to 3k miles ago. I got them at DT for less than Ford. While the DT site said they were T, the sales rep ended up ordering me H. He showed me on the computer the wholesale site where they order tires and it showed both H and T for the same price and he got H because that's what the car is rated for. The tires do need as mentioned on the Continental site and elsewhere they do need a break in period. Some say 500 to 750 miles. To me it seems like it was about at least 1000. When not broken in they seem harsher, more road issues telegraphing, but over time that evens and smooths out. Now I don't notice anything. (I mean with this car's suspension its a firmer ride anyway so it's not like riding in a Cadillac. ;-D ) No rock or pebble problems! I could tell right away they have low rolling resistance as the car just goes when you press the gas and overall the tires are quiet. They came with a tread depth of 12/32 and I will keep an eye on the wear. DT had inflated the tires to 37 but I took it down to between 32-33 for the break in period and now they are at 35. When we finally had some snow about 1 to 2 inches and I tried them out on an uncleared road. They worked well, better than the worn down Latitudes I had. With the latitudes the problem was pressing the brakes and the ABS would come on right away and the car would keep sliding which is kind of terrifying. With these whether the ABS came on or not the car would slow down and stop. From a stop, starting traction (with AWD) is good.

Hey folks, I just had this problem and detailed it under the post for service bulletin for extended warranty coverage for brake booster:

Last Friday I got in my car and about to back out of my driveway and pressing the brake pedal it felt weird. Kind of spongy and the pedal went down too far. Drove a block to try it out and it went down to the floor and took longer to stop. (My car has only 59k miles) I went home and got online and read this and a couple other related threads and also other online sites like carcomplaints.com (which has a lot regarding this) and found out about the service bulletin. I looked on the label on my car and saw it was built May 2012 but didnt say where. I drove my wife's car to the dealer to talk to a service rep about it and when I could bring it in and was it covered under the SB. I didn't even have to give them my VIN, they had it right there in the computer that it was fortunately covered for brake booster. Reading these posts and others looking at the symptoms I wasn't sure that it was the booster because there was no hissing sound or squealing when I pressed the pedal. Also there was no obvious leak of the brake fluid. Since I couldn't get a hard pedal, it was reduced braking power, so based on what I read it sounded like it could be a master cylinder problem. I took it in and they said yes it was the brake booster and they replaced it. I asked the guy about the master cylinder and he said oh no it's fine. The next day he says that after installing and testing the booster that the brakes were still spongy and that the master cylinder had to be replaced. It would cost $450 which is a lot less than the prices I've seen other people posting for this repair in other parts of the US. They had it for four days. When I went to get it the service rep said that the booster leaked into the master cylinder and contaminated it and thus had to be replaced. This is the opposite of what I've read where people say it sounds like or can be the master cylinder leaking into the booster causing it to go bad. I don't know. But once it was fixed the brakes are working much better, hard pedal, no travel when pressing the pedal to engage the brakes. I think it had been on the way out for some months because last March I had to replace the rear brakes and after that I noticed the pedal went down a little further to engage them and over time it seemed the get worse but not enough to raise concern. At least I wasn't driving it when it went out. The weird thing is I had them change the oil two months ago and presumably they check all the fluids and didn't notice brake fluid decline. Unless they did and just topped it off. Who knows. On another note given the problems I've seen discussed regarding the PTU and although my car is not in the batch affected by that faulty part, they recommended changing the fluid and so I did.

I replaced my stock Michelin Latitude Tour with Conti CrossContact LX20 (which I am not ready to comment on yet until I get about 1000 miles on them). I got my Edge at 28k miles and the tires had plenty of tread left so I wasn't sure if they were replacements. When they came off I checked the date of manufacture and it is 4012 or the 4th week of 2012 which fits in with the year of my Edge which is 2013. So the mileage on them is 56k with 3 tires having between 3 and 4/32s and one with 5/32s. That's not bad compared to people who say they only get about 25k out of them.

The only tires I ever had that happen with many years ago were Goodyear and I never bought them again after that. If you research this tire and when it was made and find a lot of other people have had this problem then Pirelli probably knows about it and may be willing to do something about it. If it turns out to be more than a one off problem maybe you can get them to replace all 4 with a different model. Otherwise keep an eye on them and check them often.

Discount Tires had the Bridgestone for $177 and then suddenly they jumped to $194 which is insane so at $158 (they can give them to me for $150) yes I will be getting the LX20!

Nice to read about the user experiences with this tire. Consumer Reports has this as the top rated tire for our types of vehicles. Of course the user reviews after the report vary as usual. I am trying to decide between this tire and the Bridgestone 422 ECOPIA. The T rated tire not the Plus which is H. What’s the difference between H and T? I have read about this in detail because I found different user experiences when reviewing the H or T tires. For example the H seem to wear quicker and the T seem to do better in snow (which I need to worry about). I’ll talk more about that in a different thread. The Conti’s come in both H and T. Anyone who buys the Contis at Discount Tire is getting T while those who buy from Ford are getting H. I will get to my issue in a minute. I bought a set of tires (Toyo Celsius CUV) which were very well reviewed online by users and test groups. There were a couple users who complained about vibration on the highway. Two or three people. I figured no big deal, maybe it was a bad set or not balanced right. I get the tires and go on the highway and with Utah roads being the way they are, the tires do have this vibration problem, it’s like riding on a washboard (which was not a problem with my old Michelin Latitudes). I believe the wheels (which were just aligned) are balanced properly. The friggin tires telegraph the road surface in this way at high speed. I have to get rid of them and get either the Conti or Bridgestone. So in reading about the LX20 I read two user reviews where they stated that due to the tires wide tread design, they get pebbles caught in the tread which don’t come out and create this loud noise when driving. Now I’m like F***! Like with these other stupid tires, everyone else is fine with the LX20 , and I’m going to be the one with the bad luck and Murphy’s Law and have this problem. Utah roads do have pebbles and there is a lot of construction going on. There is a rock chip windshield problem here I never or rarely had on the east coast. Does anyone have any problems with pebbles? Or should I just get the tires and see?

Thanks. Are yours H or T? I have noticed that for example on Tirerack they are running out of H on closeout but have plenty of T and I think I read they are no longer making the H and only the T. I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes in the rubber compound or if that's why people in reviews complain of problems in snow vs people who say its fine. The problem I had with my stock Michelins in the snow this past year was not starting traction but stopping. They slid and wouldn't stop the way they used to. After reading more about Michelin tires I have a theory. People (like what you said above) say that Michelin makes its tires with two layers, soft rubber on the outside and harder rubber in the next layer. They say it's how they get the tires to last longer. I think it's because they want people to like the tires in the first year or two and not return them until most of the warranty is up. Once it goes to the harder rubber they are noisier and I don't think harder rubber works as well on snow. So I think the problem was not the lower tread but the rubber compound. If that's the case and all Michelin's are like this then I will not even consider buying another Michelin.

How are the Bridgestone's Duelers in the winter and snow? I have a 2013 SEL AWD with the 18" wheels with the standard Michelin Latitude's which were fine in the snow when new but as they have worn down now with average tread about 5-6/32s the performance was poor. I have read on CR, the user reviews for the Bridgestone Duelers performance in snow as poor when new. (Great tire otherwise.) I know these are not snow tires but I would rather get a better all season which works well in snow than have to buy snow tires. Thanks!

Yes it just went flat but I had just checked the tires for a trip that day or the day before and all was good. It has 43k miles so I still have the power train warranty. . . . I searched on that and found this discussion: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/7620-ptu-not-covered-by-the-powertrain-warranty/ about that which is interesting.

Lol nah! I had driven the car one day and all was fine. Put it in the garage and left it there and the next day about 24 hours later it was flat. I had, because we were going to be taking a road trip, checked the tires that day or the day before and all was good. Weird situation!

Hi, I have a 2013 Edge SEL AWD. I discovered a front tire flatter than a pancake. I put on the spare and inspected the tire and can find no visible damage. I filled it up to 32 and after a couple days in the trunk it's still holding pressure. But I suppose that doesn't mean it's not damaged and if I were to put it back on then under pressure it could go flat again? I'm going to take it to my local Ford service where they can check it and see if it can be patched if needed. The front tires I measured at 6/32 and the rear which are a toss up between 7 and 8/32. I spoke to a parts guy in the event I have to replace the flat tire (and thus at least the two front tires). But he said there can't be greater than 2/32 difference between the new tires and the remaining tires without risking transfer case / transmission(?) problems with the AWD system. He said the new tires come with 10/32. So theoretically I should need only two tires but what if they say the rear tires are more at 7/32 and I need to get 4? Are they right or can I squeak by with just two? Yes I'm trying to save money but ultimately if the AWD system is damaged it's going to cost me far more! Any help or ideas would be appreciated thanks!

No I agonized over getting the right key just like someone else (candurin?) recently did and went back and forth to make sure I was getting the right key. Yes 3 buttons just as I have.