b1gbleu

I found out the compass is in the headliner area when I unplugged the hraness located in the pillar by the driver's door to relocate the microphone for my radio. Maybe check that connector. Here's a pic of it

I asked them and they did it for free after they had my car for 3 weeks....

Don13, you're in the wrong section or a troll. I don't understand the O/D off button in this car. All it seems to do is keep the transmission from upshifting to the next gear instead of keeping it in the sweet spot. Sometimes I'll be cruising at 3-4k rpm's. Does this make sense? My 2002 Durango shifts up and down exactly where it's supposed to. 7 years later and I'm going backwards. I thought it was related to other problems I was having. I just had the transmission rebuilt under extended warranty because it would continue revving if I accelerated then let go of the gas before it shifted into the next gear. The other major complaint well banging into the lower gear in stop and go traffic instead of downshifting and moving on. The third problem was if I am cruising steadily in traffic and then need to downshift, the throttle seems like it's dead.The first dealer I brought it to said it was the transmission mount. The second one said the four problems were related. Nevertheless, I still have the first three problems.

I CAN connect to sync with bluetooth, the Kenwood with the Maestro RR is designed specifically to do that. I am trying to find the difference between using one or the other for the connection. I don't like getting in the car and the radio and/or SYNC is starting up my music automatically. It's actually in the dealership right now getting the transmission rebuilt. I'll have to play around more once I get it back.

Abdt, after I upgraded the old Pioneer that was in the Edge I just got, I ironically found a Sirius receiver in the spare tire well while installing the new camera. That explains the antenna above the stop light. I used that wire for the camera's video wires. Anyway, regarding the damn SWI2 wire, I saw the blu/or wire at the radio, but the Idatalink info suggested it was in the center console. Maybe cuz I thought it didn't have factory nav. I got it used. Yup! besides being in the radio connector, that wire color is in two different harnesses, the one feeding the transmission selector is NOT the one you want to pick and cut! It's the one that's connected to the SYNC module that's next to the transmission selector, you have to carefully slice away the tape that's wrapped around the 50 or so wires and it'll be right on top! You'll want to connect the radio lead to the one coming from the sync module as opposed to the one that appears to be going to the rear of the vehicle. That's after you cut it away from your harness, of course. Once I did that, the sync started working with the steering wheel buttons.

Jeez, Antonio, you're a week late, dude. After 5-6 days you give up or forget about checking yet another site for help. I've got a question for you, does the sync have it's own bluetooth pairing? As you see in my sig I don't have the factory radio but a Kenwood, which has a bluetooth setup screen as well as a "sync bluetooth" menu option? The ford site manuals only describe factory radio procedures, I actually had to convince the ford Tech at a Bronx dealership that he could update the sync without the factory radio being present!

please delete

Hey, wlepse, where was the switch installed? I was looking for one as I have the remote start, it wasn't in the glove box with the stickers that are supposed to be installed in the engine bay. My son's Acura has it built-in to the hood latch. Ya know, if you set your remote to unlock all doors with one press, the remote start won't work if you have the audiovox remote start? (Unless you have a dedicated button or remote for it)

OP, yes, right side of driver seat back. Luckily I have the Extended warranty. Never mind about the waranty, they say they can't duplicate it. Pin heads. I told them they have to brake hard then accelerate hard. Maybe they had a problem stopping it quickly, but I know it takes off great most of the time

WOW, so Chrome Ford rims are nothing more than aluminum wheels with a set of $50 cheap covers glued on them? I guess that's better than the clip on ones found on EBAY....That would explain the cracking post by another member. Those plastic sh!t covers are worthless.

Nice job! You could make home radiator covers for a living now!

It's my boss' old car, he upgraded the factory non-nav unit to the F900BT when he bought it new, there's definitely no amp in the kick panel. There is remote start under there, though!

I've put the 3rd HU in this vehicle, from what I can tell, there's no factory amp, I'm using the 50wx4 output on the Kenwwod as did the Pioneer before me. No sub in the rear.You're probably better off finding a Mustang install of an Edge HU instructions.

So it's time to get to the sub/amp. Make sure there's 12v at the amp when the radio turns on. If there's three wires for power, then there's probably constant 12v and a turn-on lead. I don't have the sub myself or I'd take a look. check this out if it helps http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1df7u-wiring-diagram-factory-amp-goes.html

Dodge and GM are no different with this problem. I can either blame it on People want blinding lighting but the heat isn't considered or the sh!t coming from China doesn't cut it. LED's are too pricey at this time. If you're out of warranty, cut the connector off and get an auto parts replacement.