Rextang

Since web forums are great complaint repositories and I've already complained about the sunroof function I abhor, I'll now express my distaste for the obnoxious keyless go honking function. When the engine is running and the keys are in my pocket, why must my Edge wake up the neighbors if I exit the vehicle and close the door behind me? Let's say I'm in freezing Michigan and there is a foot of snow on my car and I put my laptop inside and start it up. Then get my snow brush and exit the car. BEEP BEEP! Hey look at me! Over Here! Oh Yes, this is the New Edge! No other car with Keyless Go honks louder! It bites me when I move garbage pails, come home late and retrieve the mail... you get the picture. In that brief moment when I swing the door to close and before the honk happens, my brain scrambles to compute whether I left key in my pocket or in the car. I swear this is a real trigger for anxiety. Remember the guy in the original Ghostbusters movie who would get zapped with electricity for answering the Venkman ESP test question incorrectly? Zap! That's what my Edge does to me. Google it if you are too young to remember. I cannot believe the engineer responsible for this classless use of the horn did not have a better idea. This car will shut off the engine after a set time if you forget it. This car has a keypad to get you back in if you somehow locked your keys inside. It does not need to punish your ears for making a mistake. It does not need to wake up your sleeping neighbors. I sure hope the Edge "customer focus group" didn't ask for this feature. Ford, I love you and I know you are reading this so please make my car less offensive.

The '15 shade works as expected. My request is for the glass only. What I meant to say is that when the glass is open and I press the close button, the glass only returns about 4 inches and then stops. I must then hold my finger on the close button to make it close all the way, which happens to be for the majority of the distance. The auto portion is comical in that it has no useful purpose. Also, if it is open and I press the tilt button, it should close the glass and pop up in the tilted position. Instead, nothing happens. My wife's Jeep does exactly what one would reasonably expect.

Passed a car carrier full of Edge Vignale models heading east on M59 (MI) yesterday afternoon. They looked like new deliveries and clearly had the Vignale insignia centered on the trunk. Looked like they were sporting the euro headlights too.

Can you change the vista roof to perform one touch close? Please. Then I will drive to meet you somewhere so you can change my car too.

You can get the car to read incoming messages to you. Go to your iPhone Bluetooth settings and next to SYNC, select the "i". Then toggle on the "Show Notifications" option. If you do this when you are sitting in the car already paired, you will need to unpair and re-pair. Incoming messages will alert you with a tone that you can change or turn off in the SYNC Phone Notifications settings. Upon receiving the notification, you have about 5 seconds to press the "listen" button on the screen. You cannot use SYNC to reply. Siri manages that quite well however.

It depends on how big your hands are. What's the worst that can happen you drop one and get another rattle

Vadimus, I removed the magnets completely for a few days and the noise is still there.

Not sure how to change the title of the thread to "overhead" rattle. The word "magnet" was a guess and it is not correct. Moderator, can you help?

No solution yet. Don't have that much time to give it to the dealer. They had it for a whole day and blew the opportunity to do what I asked... To have one person drive and a second to diagnose. All they said was that a tech drove it and confirmed the noise is present.... Followed by telling me to make another appointment for them to dig into it. ?

Here is the requested photo of the Husky Weatherbeater showing the dead pedal area coverage.

Went with Husky Weather Beaters. They are my preference due to the full coverage of the dead pedal vs. what you get from Weather Tech. Here in MI when you get in your car with a snow stuck in your boots, the melting snow and salt goes right behind a Weather Tech mat.

I simply do not have the time to go to the dealer at the moment. I have taken out two of the magnets and can say it is not them. And although the exterior filler panel is missing at least 1 clip, I put cardboard under it and can say that is not the culprit either. I'm focusing on the cross bar between the fixed and the moving glass as the source. When the roof is open, the noise goes away.

I am finding a possible source for the overhead noise. On the roof between the glass and the outer edge of the car is a black filler panel. On the driver's side, I'm missing one retainer clip right over my head. Here is a pic, one from drivers side (missing) and one from the passenger with clip. The front ones are easy to inspect with the glass open, but the back clips are not. I suspect I have more than one missing because the whole filler plate seems loose.

Yes. for a few weeks I thought it was the seat belt height adjuster mechanism, but later found If I place my hand on the headliner while driving that the vibration is in sync with the headliner movement while driving over rough pavement. Applying force upward with the palm of my hand pretty much makes it stop. It's just behind the area over the headrest. Give it a try and let me know.

Does it sound like marbles rattling around over your head? http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/18978-headliner-magnet-rattle-vista-roof/?do=findComment&comment=139316

The rattle over my head is getting progressively worse. Started sometime after 10k miles and seems to be worse on cooler mornings. It is most prominent when driving over rough pavement. I can make it stop by applying upward pressure to the headliner in the area over and slightly behind my head, along the perimeter of the vista roof. Initial investigation tells me the noise originates from a loose fit between the attachment point of the magnetic clips that hold the headliner to the roof and the headliner backing itself which is plastic. If I pull down on the headliner such that the magnets are not in contact with the roof, the noise is still there. Some people are cursed with this problem on the passenger side, mine is right over my head, so I'm working on identifying it. Anyone else have a better idea or a solution yet? Please keep this thread specific to the original topic. There are a bunch of rattle threads that are getting difficult to follow and contain various unrelated issues.

For me, any discomfort was only related to applying any additional lumbar whatsoever. It is so low and sharp, it pushes right at my belt line and digs into my spine. It is really odd because I'm not tall. Check that yours is all the way retracted. Try sitting more upright and calling your posture to attention, allowing your back to follow the contour of the seat such that your shoulders are touching when your hands are resting at roughly 3 & 9. Use the telescoping steering wheel to adjust for reach instead of slouching forward. Use two hands on the wheel to avoid odd back angles. I've got almost 9k back pain free miles behind me and have come to terms with what at first seemed like uncomfortable seats.

A few weeks ago, my nav displayed me the message to "insert SD card". Finally took it in and they had to replace the Media Hub. I use the USB to charge my iPhone, so I doubt the brand of phone has anything to do with this. I did not have the indexing message and my USB port worked fine the whole time. Media Hub is not stocked in dealer's inventory. It has to be ordered, coded to your vin and shipped to your dealer. At best this is a two visit deal to get it fixed. My dealer was kind enough to give me a loaner.

I experienced this too. I pinned it down to the flat area of the glossy black panel between the cup holder and the arm rest. When the noise occurs, I apply downward pressure to this area and the noise subsides. After a few weeks of this, I haven't had the noise come back, so it just may be that the underlying adhesive wasn't fully mated to the outer panel. Give it a try and report back.

Ruby, your slow to accelerate issue accompanied by cool turbo wooshing sounds is likely to be the turbo intercooler hose being disconnected. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17892-2015-sport-complete-loss-of-boost/page-2?do=findComment&comment=134182

So it's fixed. Work order says it was cleaned and reinstalled. They said it was difficult to assemble it correctly, perhaps referring to installing the clip properly. Info was vague at best. I also had the tsb performed on the A-pillars even though I have not had any water intrusion after nearly 6k miles. If the IC hose comes off again, I'm getting a t-bolt clamp.

Wingnut, I have only tried it from the top side and as Tron said, it's a PITA. Air box has to come out and I also removed an electrical module that is bolted to the front radiator support. Takes decent leverage to push the hose back on. You also have to wait for the engine to cool before attempting this exercise. It is not something you fix roadside nor need to. 2.7l is sufficient to move the car without boost. Perhaps it is accessible from underneath, but there are a lot of fasteners to remove the underbody aero panel.

At 5,800 miles it has happened again. And it happened on the weekend of course while merging onto a highway. I decided not to fix it myself and to take it in this time, so I'll provide an update when I get it back this afternoon. My advice to anyone experiencing this is to use S mode on the trans. S holds gears longer which you will need to accelerate since there isn't any boost. I drove it all weekend like this and survived. I think the charge air hose needs more than a hose clamp. This is becoming an annoyance more than anything else.

More annoying is that you are given 6x3 presets, but only get access to 6 from the steering wheel before you have to take your eyes off the road and look for a touch point on the screen to access the next 6. This, I'm sure, was designed by the same guy who wrote the sunroof button logic and the remote FOB "global open" logic that only opens the front windows..... Hardly global.

It's underneath the air box. Follow the hose with your hand coming from the bottom of the box. It will be loose on the radiator side. Definitely let it cool first.