onyxbfly

Greetings Guys and Gals,

Just wanted to share the awesome experience I had purchasing from @Special_K and @snmjim!  Everything arrived as stated, well shipped and even arrived early. If anyone is looking for good deals drop them a line! Great post sale support! Non of that it is what it is crap, you brought it the onus is on you nonsense! They are good straightforward and honest sellers!  All around good people!

Looking forward to doing business again real soon!

8 hours ago, MB022803 said:

When you shit can it you can feel a difference

I certainly hope so! Its been said there is nothing more overrated than sex and there is nothing more underrated than a good shit!

14 hours ago, Cerberus said:

I know you're going think I'm a dinosaur for saying this, but I don't do IG..

i guess i know what I have to do lol

Nah not at all, I'm not a big fan of social media.  Although, I do understand and respect those that do. I just don't feel the need to put my life on display.

4 hours ago, Cerberus said:

FWIW, I sent them (DTP Fab) a msg through their site form, asking for a quote for the cold pipe with meth bung, cerakoted, and never heard back from them

SMDH!! Not that it helps, but their Instagram is fairly active. Their most recent post was of yesterday. Drop them a line via IG.

7 hours ago, Scooter53 said:

Is it still available? Tried email but it says invalid 

If you're not making payments, you're making repairs! May she serve you well. If you plan on keeping her for longer than 3 years look into an extended warranty. If you sell or trade her in, you can recoup the investment from the warranty or get a prorated refund. 

Enjoy your new ride!

1 hour ago, Xtra said:

It all started in early August when the the car lost boost. And then the dominos started to fall.  ... Bought a brand new FMIC $$  from Ultimate Performance and had it installed at Galpin Auto Sports $$. When working on the IC the tech noticed that the brake pads were shot... So new front and rear pads were ordered from Rotora $$ and installed today $$. Got lucky as the discs still have life in them, but all 4 will need replacing next time pads are needed.  When the tires came off to install the brake pads, we discovered all 4 tires were completely shot and unsafe.  So... 4 new tires were ordered today $$ to be installed tomorrow $$. Also did an oil & filter change at 2,500 miles $$.  The car required all this maintenance and I defiantly used up every bit of life in the parts before any damage was done.   August was full of surprises and very expensive, but now my car is is in tip top shape. 

 

The uneven wear is caused by the track alignment settings I use. It makes the car stick like glue and turn in great at the cost of tire life.   Lots of people get 40K out of just one set of tires this is my 5th or 6th set in 40K and my third set of brake pads.  The price of living just one block off Mulholland 

 

You can see the Bilstein shock and the H&R spring that transformed the suspension for the better.  The tires were dangerous to drive on and the damage could not be seen by just walking around the car. 

You living on the EDGE! No pun intended!

GLWS!!

We need you to make DRLs for the 2015-2018 edges!

Congrats! She's a beauty! She looks good in blue!

1.Definitely check the battery. If the battery is not an issue perhaps you need to have your key correctly programed. Do you have more than one key?

2.Lock, start, start

3. Definitely is. Night and day difference and once you have fully upgraded you can use Android Auto or Carplay for infotainment and navigation.

On 8/6/2022 at 3:59 PM, Xtra said:

I noticed that in the 2.7EB  Ultimate Parts Thread that RamFab is stll listed as the source of the cold side pipe. 

My information comes directly from Colin and Jim. If you take a gander at the Ultimate Parts thread you will see that it hasn't been updated in quite some time. @Special_K or @snmjim would have to edit it, or have a mod do it.

Or if someone is so inclined to check to see if they can order one from RamFab.

1 hour ago, Cerberus said:

 

I know the water pump is replaceable with the engine in place for some edges, but admittedly i don't know if this is one of those.

but if the pump can be done w/ eng in place, that would almost have to be cheaper than a salvage yard engine, refresh & swap, wouldn't it?

 

and your coworker is pretty damn lucky so far, but that is definitely an exception to the rule situation, and once the oil gets milked up, its a crapshoot whether the bearing surfaces in the engine get damaged or not.

my 2011 3.5 seemed like it could have just had a new pump and been back in svc, but since it was an engine out required job, i did the salvage engine, refresh and quick swap deal in that case.

You're right some mechanics will do it with the engine in place. Others will not. Ironically enough I believe some mechanics will recommend changing all the ancillary bits and others will not especially since its a chain and not a belt. I guess it's going to come down to who's turning the wrenches. I guess the price comes down to who's doing the work.

My coworker knows he's living on borrowed time.  At this point I think he might be waiting it out to see how long it last. He said he has the funds saved for the engine swap. He already has the water pump and other parts.

You really don't hear about the water pump issues on the 3.7 engine. It's a known issue on the 3.5. The reason the price is high is due to the craptastic design that ford chose to go with and use an internal water pump.   Here is an alternative suggestion. It could be cheaper depending on how you sort it out.

My suggestion would be to get a low mileage engine from a salvage yard and while it is out, I would change the pump, the guides, the chain etc I would also take the opportunity to gibe it a full tune up which really shouldn't cost much because while the engine is out its not hard to get to anything. 

I'd also ask your trusted ford mechanic if he does work outside of the shop.

Here is my thought process.... When you notice a leak, you really don't have any idea of how long its been leaking prior to. My coworker noticed a leak. The reservoir was damn near empty when I picked him up. Being strapped for cash he opted to fill it with coolant.....apart from filing the reservoir every so often, its still going strong......No compression issues, no power loss etc, no milky oil etc...

That was 3 years ago and its still running strong.

I don't know your requirements for tires, but you can get 22" tires for your edge starting at ~$200 a pop. Might be time for you to start looking at independent shops.

Food for thought!

13 hours ago, F0RDM0M said:

Are you selling your stock wheels? Are they the hyper silver color? I cracked one of my rims on a pot hole and I’m having a terrible time finding a replacement.

Sorry to hear about your wheel debacle! Where you located these wheels are all over the place on Craigslist and FB marketplace etc. As an alternative to replacing your wheel, you can have your wheel repaired and refinished.

If you replaced your camera, it needs to be reprogrammed! You should be able to sort that out with FORScan.

3 hours ago, Drolly95 said:

Hey everyone, I am going to be that guy and ask what I’m sure every Edge newbie has asked before me. I am looking at picking up a Boomba BOV adaptor and I’m wondering if there can be any harmful repercussions for the fun sounds. From the little bit of research, I’ve done, I understand that basically all its doing is allowing the unused charge air to vent to atmosphere instead of being recirculated. Just curious what the forum had to say about it. Thanks for any responses. 

 

 

Welcome to the forum! Let your fingers do the walking!

11 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Is that the Ford Sparkle Silver WP-20-00-61 color?

Ford's Hyper Black or Hyper Gray.

Intermittent electrical issues can be notoriously frustrating at times.   As much as we would all love for you to get to the bottom line with this! I'm hoping this particular gremlin doesn't rare its head again!  I'm sure you will sort it out if it eventually returns.

I'm sure you double checked the wiring on the terminals/ grounds etc? Try leaving your positive battery cable unplugged for 15 min. I believe that it will reset the BCM.  If that doesn't work try leaving it unplugged for over night. 

Clear the codes after your initial scan. Shut down and restart and rescan you should see that the DTC's have been cleared. Take a look at the BMS in FORScan, did you change it for your upgraded size?  IIRC I believe that you did that in one of your previous post. 

HTH

On 6/6/2022 at 8:04 PM, 1004ron said:

All 4 on your vehicle would obviously have been subjected to the same, whatever that may be, prior to your ownership.

 

If Ford's wheel painting was a systemic issue, there would be more complaints on the forum than this single thread, so maybe @2FAST4U and @onyxbfly have something to support their assertions.

Yes, you are correct, it looks like his paint is de-laminating. I'll do a deep dive on google. The dealer I purchased my car from informed me when I purchased my edge. Then again the dealer may have been mistaken.  Or if you happen to ever pass by a dealership with multiple 15-18 on their lot, you will see that the the paint tint/ shade does not match between model years.

Did you buy the wheel and tire package? If so that is a good candidate for wheel replacement. Or you might get some love at the dealership you purchased her from. If they have other edge sports on the lot they may let you switch them.

If that fails, you can get avery decent job done at home. It's all in the prep!

Welcome to the forum! Unfortunately your wheels are not black. Due to supply chain issues,  IIRC due to a natural disaster. Ford used different vendors throughout the 15-18 run. The lack of quality control and consistency led to various shades of grey.

If your wheels are perfect and do not require any repairs you have a few options. 

The cheapest alternative is plasti-dip.  Any imperfections will telegraph through the dip.

A medium grade solution would be painting. Medium grade but not medium price. If you're going to DIY, your cost will be materials. It is possible to do a very high quality job at home.  It's all in the prep.  If you want a professional job, you're going to have to pay professional prices.  Some will debate that paint is better than my next suggestion.

The best alternative would be to have your wheels powder coated. Powder coating is the best bang for your best bang for your buck. You can have any imperfections repaired.  Powder coating is more durable and can withstand more abuse than paint. In Philly powder cooting will run you $600 and up and that includes any wheel repair and removing and reinstalling your tires.  If your wheels are perfect I've seen prices as low as $450.

Almost every place that repairs wheels can do powder coating in house.  Although I would imagine that there are places that just repair/ restore and not powder coat.

If you search through the gallery you will see a few members with plasti-dip and powder coating.

HTH

1 hour ago, McToberson said:

Thank you!

You got it!

On 5/31/2022 at 5:24 AM, McToberson said:

. Is there a bumper cover takedown tutorial on here?  I'm an industrial mech, so I can figure it out with a little trial and error, but I'd like to save that time and apply it to the actual install.  Could anyone point me in the right direction?  I saw a dude on youtube bumble through the process to the point of annoyance, and I figured there'd be a better one somewhere on here... just can't seem to find the right search term to pinpoint the thread, if it exists.  21 ST if that matters.  Thank you!

Here you go. Here two decent videos that should get you most of the way if not all of the way, take a look at the PDFs I attached for clarification if needed.

HTH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0geWzK18WwFront Bumper Cover.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acVcO-11BtQ

Front Bumper Cover RI.pdf