ghost0217

I know this question was asked over a year ago, but for the sake of possibly helping someone else out in the future, the procedure that was mentioned about holding the defrost/power button for 5 seconds and then pressing the power button is some sort of AC reset/recalibration. When you do that, you will hear the small motors (blend door actuators) reset and run through a full sweep. It will then move the air across all vents in order and once done, it usually re-aligns the blend door actuator in question. This is a temp fix though. It will get you through that one issue, but will come back. Eventually you will want to replace the affected actuator. The passenger side one is behind the glove box, the driver side one is up under the dash/center stack. Each part is roughly $50 if applicable.

How did you tap into the factory speaker wires? Where'd you grab remote from or did you use the signal sensing from the Audio Control? Did you need a special harness to get the speaker level inputs? Thank you.

In the past I used to just clay then wax my vehicles glass. Then I switched to Stoner's glass cleaner and Rain X. I traded for an old foxbody mustang (1991) and the glass on the whole car was terrible. I saw one of the Mothers Water Spot Remover for Glass commercials and figured I'd try it. For the ease of use and outcome, I was impressed. That 1991 glass came out smooth/shiny/and repels water.

I'm shocked you didn't like NXT 2.0. I've used it on my truck in the past and other than the saran wrap look, I thought it was plenty glossy. I've noticed that it isn't like a carnuba wax as far as the type of shine, but still looks nice. I also thought durability was so so for a synthetic. I always like Megs #16. I've heard good things about Pinnacle and Poor Boy's Natties line.