pilotdog68

Just FYI you should be able to find them at any hardware store or auto parts store. They're very common. Yes the t-taps are great because they should not damage the conductor itself, so if you accidentally tap the wrong wire just remove the tap and wrap it with electrical tape to seal it back up and you're fine.

Where is that huge bundle of wires under the door sill going?I just assumed there was an auxiliary computer or something by the rear quarter panel that all the door sensors connect to, and then that computer tells the door alarm to sound, and the dome lights to come on, and the radio to shut off. And again, it may be a difference in model year or we may be talking about two different wires altogether. All I know for certain (and illustrated in my video) was that I found a green wire with purple stripe in that bundle, and grounding it fixed my problem.

Maybe it varies by model year, but I definitely had to take off the sill trim to even be able to take off the kick panel and access and wire wrap. I just grabbed it by hand and lifted straight up and it pops off. Then when you put it back on take care to line up the clips with their slots. I also just used a t-tap in my fix and then my own wire to ground, because one end of that wire goes to the computer, and the other end goes to the switch in the latch, not directly to ground. You have to bypass the faulty switch by making your own connection to ground. (unless you were planning on using a different wire/solution than I did.)

My installation is illustrated in post #11 if you wanted to compare, though it sounds like your reed switch is just sticky (or maybe you have some stray magnetism around it?). I harvested my switch from this model security alarm, which I just had sitting around. As I said, I haven't been having any issues with it. Although I'm annoyed my Edge had this problem in the first place, I'm quite happy with the fix. Edit: Looking back at your pictures, I think the magnet in the door speaker may be close enough to your reed switch to cause some issues.

I'm not dbender, but I'll chime in. Mine was an '07 and the fix is working great. My magnets came unglued once and flipped themselves to a different part of the door, so I just glued them there and they have been fine since. The only downside is there's no warning if the door is mostly closed but not totally latched, mine starts chiming after the door is 2"+ open. That's not a problem for the drivers door, it's easy enough to tell by feel and sound. It could be an issue for the rear doors though.

I use 87 but avoid ethanol blends whenever I can.

Just FYI there are a few threads here that give different ways to resolve the issue (other than taking it to the dealer). If you search just "door ajar" you'll find the threads. I'd post a link but I'm on my mobile

Head rest angle? You use the headrests?

I just signed up to report. Looks like a great service

Man, that's pretty. I like the looks of that generation much better than the new ones. I wish I had a bigger budget when I bought mine, but I'm still happy with my 2007. congrats!

I just thought it was a little strange to not have an indicator in the instrument panel. Every other car I've had always had an indicator up top.

Is it the opposite on the 07-08's? I have the indicator next to the gear shift, but nothing up on the dash.

I've read a lot of his posts, I've got my fingers crossed I'll get another reply from him/others. This forum is a little slower than a few others I'm on.

The plot thickens! Also, my manual calls for Mercon V for tranny, but Mercon for steering. I know the Mercon V fluid was adapted or something so that Ford could discontinue the standard Mercon, but would I be better off with an aftermarket Mercon equivalent instead of Mercon V for the steering?

Thanks for the reply 1. I've read many places that you should not immediately do a full tranny flush on a car that has never had one done (something about suspended particles actually being beneficial to clutch plates short-term, removing them could cause slipping). Do you not agree with this? I wouldn't take it to a shop anyways, so it would be multiple drain-and-fills. 2. So you're saying don't use the valvoline synthetic? The only reason I was considering it was because it does list Mercon V on the spec sheet, and I wasn't sure of the quality of SuperTech products. 3. Alright, I'll skip the Rotella. My thinking was just that the minuscule difference in density would be beneficial in the summer months. 4-6. Got any video tutorials on how to do these? Edit1: Looks like I can use a turkey baster for the power steering. I've done a brake bleed on my mtn bike before, but I'd be a little nervous about getting bubbles in my Edge. I'm in the Des Moines area

There are a few threads out there on this topic, but not much recently. I just bought a 2007 SEL FWD at 111k miles and unknown maintenance history. 1. I'm going to swap out 5-6qts of transmission fluid. Am I better off using SuperTech Mercon V, or Valvoline Maxlife synthetic (which is now formulated for Mercon LV, but the recently updated spec sheet also lists Mercon V)? 2. I'll be doing an oil change for the upcoming summer. I was planning on one qt of 5w40 Rotella T6, then fill the rest with 5w20 Pennzoil Platinum. I will probably put a little Seafoam in a couple hundred miles before changing. Anybody see any issues with that plan? 3. I just changed the spark plugs and air filters, and ran some Techron through the gas tank. What other little maintenance things am I forgetting that should be done on a used car? Thanks

Old post but this was very helpful info for me since once of the reasons we bought an SUV instead of a car was so that we could take it to the drive-in. I copied Lex's example almost to the 'T'. 1. Purposefully blow or cut-out fuse 2. Trim down top of fuse to access metal pins 3. Solder wire to one, and ATM fuse holder to other ($3 each at walmart) 4. Attach female slide connectors 5. Mount rocker switches to kick panel. (repeat) voila! top switch toggles dome light fuse, bottom switch for the puddle lights.

Ehhh, reads like it's per rim to me. If it's for a set of 4 then I can't blame him for making that mistake.

I added some notes to that other post. Yes, you can just forget the magnets and ground the wire to disable the door ajar warning.

I figured it out and made a simple video, just in case anyone else is intimidated by all the wires in the kick panel. Sorry for the Portrait orientation, I didn't think about it at the time. Some notes: 1. There are also green wires with RED stripes that at first I thought was a VIOLET stripe. The correct wire will have a dark purple stripe. 2. The car is looking for the wire to be grounded when the door is closed, so you could just forget the magnetic sensor and ground that same wire and it will disable the door ajar warning altogether. 3. Here is a link to the exact alarms I harvested the sensor from. I already had one laying around, but you can just buy the sensor itself online (Normally-open magnetic reed switch) or these security alarms are available most hardware/home improvement stores.

that's no light reading

I've never even heard of "global open". I'll have to try this on my edge today. Is there a list somewhere of these little obscure features?

The brake cleaner/WD40 method isn't lasting for me, and I'm tired of not having interior lights (I took out the fuse). I'm going to attempt this on the drivers' side. 1. has anyone else done this? Can anyone draw a crude diagram of how to connect the wires? I just want to understand it better before cutting into stuff. 2. Obviously there are a ton of wires in that vicinity because of the fuse panel being right there in the driver's wheel well. What are the chances there is more than one "22awg green with a violet stripe"?

Is there a reason why you all decided on those monroe's vs any other brand/model? I'm thinking mine need done to and this is cheap enough to justify it.

I ordered 6 boots for my change and didn't end up needing any of them. If you pay shipping I can send you three (if you haven't already ordered)