lildisco

I know that the non ST's take ULV fluid. Not sure about the ST's. I just did my 2020 SEL's with OEM Mercon ULV fluid a few months ago. Doubt it's helpful. Owners manual says Mercon ULV for the 2.7L :

I'm wondering if some sort of debris from the pads? I've had 4 or 5 sets of these over the years on different vehicles & have never had an issue. Maybe this was just a fluke. Surely it's odd, but relatively cheap repair.

I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premiums & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything last week, but no change. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it was ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premium rotors & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.

That's how I always have done it as the negative side of the battery isn't easy to get to. Start-stop still works for ~ 2 months so far after resetting the BMS. I haven't looked at the battery state of charge, but I can if the issue pops up again.

I posted this in another thread, but: I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal. The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged. Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal. As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since

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I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal. The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged. Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal. As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since

3 times drain & fill on our 2016 SEL Fwd 2.0 w/ 69,083 miles. 2nd time we've done it on the 2016. Got anywhere between 4 & 4.5 quarts out each time. This time we used Valvoline Maxlife instead of OEM 🤞

I was able to take part of the fender liner off & installed a 2015-2018 OEM Ford edge horn. Plug & play, less than 10 minutes on our 2020 SEL AWD.

They should have with the volume button. I'd read the owners manual & if that doesn't work, I'd make a trip to the dealership.

Thanks. I guess it is serviceable when you split the trans open, lol. Here's MacT talking about the ULV fluids: https://youtu.be/kJQW6wXS0qg?si=e4Hbwa7tYkCXaygT

To my knowledge, there's no filter in these transmissions, so any wear from the transmission just sits in the coolant & cycled through everything. When I do another 3x drain & fill I'll probably switch to Valvoline. Probably by that time MacT will have changed his 2019 fluid a couple of times & report on the results.

I also swapped the PTU Fluid to Redline Lightweight Shockproof (AKA Smurf Blood, because it's blue). After ~8,000 miles, there's way less gunk in it, compared to OEM, but with ~8,000 miles, that's nothing on new fluid, but I wanted to make sure that I got as much of the OEM fluid out of there. The 1st pic is the 1st drain with the OEM fluid & this is the most recent drain with Redline Lightweight Shockproof

This is from the 2nd drain & fill, slightly more red, but not a lot. It is my understanding that the OEM ULV fluid turns dark pretty quick. Someone suggested Valvoline makes a ULV fluid that stays red much longer than the OEM.