1004ron

@omar302 Good to hear. In my opinion this is a premature failure of this type of joint and suspect its improper lubricant. I occasionally had the clunk with the steering at full lock and pulling off. Another symptom is what sounded like gear whine to me and thought it was my transfer case going out. That whine is about gone - its very faint now and sounds like its coming from the rear and if I monitor the AWD to FWD transfer I can hear a decrease at that time goes into FWD, which has me thinking about changing the rear CV Axles and if I do I'll be looking the TrakMotive or GSP on RockAuto.com $85 per CV Axle, most likely also incorrect lubricant, experience changing these and the fact that it should be easier on the rear, makes me close to pulling the trigger on replacing the rear. I had symptoms 2, 3, 4 & 5 described in the attached document. https://www.rockauto.com/info/570/TrakMotive-Noise-Sumptoms-of-a-Worn-CV-Shaft-02.17.pdf Anyone have experience with TrakMotive or GSP CV Axles?

I don't believe that the octane has anything to do with it - mine does exactly the same on the higher octane Costco top tier gas and the only thing that resolves it is a new OEM Motocraft/FoMoco evap valve. Part # GL3Z 9B325 B .

Wonder how long we'll wait before they provide the remedy?

Welcome. Only guessing it sounds like a bad ground connection, but would start by reading the stored fault codes.

I have to date never seen a combination IAT/MAF device - they may exist but guess they're scarce - I wouldn't rely on AI for this type of thing. The device in your image is an IAT and even if it gets a little dust and dirt on it, it would function without an issue.

I believe your assumptions are incorrect. The IAT isn't sensitive to fouling. These days an MAP has taken the place of the MAF - the MAP is way less sensitive to fouling compared to the MAF and its very rare that it requires cleaning. My 2017 2.7L has 123K miles on it and its never needed carbon removal. .

I have moved my vehicles to Akebono - good grip and very low dust, or could say no dust. Right now I've got the best Autozone carries because I found the issue during my CV axle replacement. On my BMW K1600 motorcycle I use EBC - they're the best for the bike but make a lot of dust.

Important update. With ample friction material left, the pads de-laminated.

I had that exact combination on the front, and I'm still happy with the rotors but would strongly advise against the pads. My pads de-laminated and a web search indicates that its a typical problem with those pads - also bought from RockAuto. See the last post in the below thread.

Welcome. I'd start by removing the tint. Please add your Year & Model to your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

@Luciano was banned today.

For the specific viscosity/weight of the oil in each part consult your owner's manual, then select a reputable brand such as AMSOIL, Redline, ....... Please add your Model & Year to your profile signature - Settings - Ford Edge Forum

The camshaft position sensors are very rudimentary/robust instruments with extremely low failure rate, so I doubt that they had anything to do with the operating issues you describe. The codes you listed are related to the Catalytic Converters and that should be the starting point for diagnostics. The CAT's can last very long unless there's factors such as oil burning or excess fuel. If the CAT's are getting blocked they'll be restricting exhaust gas flow and the symptoms will be worse when going up a hill etc. As a test you could pull the upstream O2 sensors and assess the exhaust pressure at that point with the engine running and see if any of the symptoms clear. Best not to use that person for diagnostic advice going forward.

Why are you wanting to change the camshaft position sensors?

No, only two.