1004ron

+1 on @Samurai Edge comment. Another thing to consider is the shoddy job the previous owner did could be rusting beneath the poorly applied Bondo - this is most likely the reason for the "+ is for "unforeseen difficulties"".

As you've already deduced, it's not a mere dent removal needed - it will need all the badly applied Bondo ground out, prepped, primed and painted.

I'm also not into the Frankenstein idea - I went with like for like from Centric just because of the higher carbon content.

When my 2017 Sport developed a vibration when starting to brake at speeds around 60 to 80 mph. I suspected warped front rotors and the dial gauge confirmed runout was > 2 thou - no deposit buildup. Tried drilled and slotted rotors and then settled on the Centric High Carbon plain rotors and they're still doing fine after many thousand miles. The brake performance is superb and see no point in upgrades, other than things like Akebono low/zero dust pads.

tarekdata Hacked and banned.

When looking to purchase a battery tester look for one with the heavy/robust clamps, the type seen on the photo of the TOPDON.

$15 and its yours. Yes I have PayPal - send me your details and address by PM/DM. The link to Amazon has a description of how the switch is used. The main reason why I no longer use it is because I mainly use portable devices that don't have USB and the need to use the switch at certain times. .

I'm not sure about that one. This is one I have but no longer use - it needed to be switch between the two bus speeds but does work - I'd let it go to a good home for the mail costs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY?th=1

A basic fairly cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is all that's needed to reliably scan for codes. Some places like Autozone have scan tools that can reliably read all Ford codes, but its hit and miss.

My next step would be to use Forsan to check for codes.

Its only recent years that DC clamp meters became available - is yours one of the later models that's DC capable?

It takes just one deep discharge to destroy a lead-acid battery, which a parasitic draw will do - thank goodness for Costco's good warranty cover, but they might not be so willing if the replacement is returned in a few days, so best disconnect the battery when the car is not in use until the parasitic draw is resolved.

Do a Google search for "how to find parasitic draw on car".

Not too sure of what's written but it sounds like I was right, a dead battery. While at Autozone have them put their battery tester on it which will display state of charge, CCA, Cranking Voltage and charging Voltage.

Battery appears to be past its useful life. Charge it and then take it to a place like Autozone for them to do a health check on it, free of charge. .