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Thanks again @omar302 Now I'm searching for the exhaust kit or the file to 3D print the adapter.

Searching I came up with the below threads, and still searching for the 3D print files so that my friend can do those for me. https://www.road-reality.com/2016/11/03/how-to-and-review-seatgurus-2015-f-150-seat-fix/ https://www.road-reality.com/2016/11/03/how-to-and-review-seatgurus-2015-f-150-seat-fix/3d-printed-part-and-tubing/

Thanks @omar302 Now that you mention it I can see what appears to be that "sock" without pulling the upholstery up. I only use the seat cooling for 5 minutes max 10 minutes and can feel the seat cooling and very minimal on the backrest - I can hear the backrest fan running. Now to search for the MacGyver fix for the exhaust.

Welcome. I don't expect any of those codes would inhibit a crank but might inhibit it firing. I bought one like the below linked off eBay for around $20 - it's monochrome and would love the color versions but have heard that they're real expensive. 2015 FORD Edge Electrical Wiring Diagrams Diagram Service Shop Manual EWD OEM

After all these years and summer almost here I'm looking at improving the backrest cooling. See below F150 thread on the topic - is this still the best option? I downloaded the 3D printer file from the link and will ask a friend to print it for me. https://www.f150forum.com/f118/heated-cooling-seat-fix-upgrade-preventative-fix-440863/index12/ https://www.mcmaster.com/6519N15/

I too have used Redline products and consider them top grade. Did wonders in my Harley Nightrain's gearbox.

The camshaft position codes are likely a result of the low oil pressure. If you used a solvent type flush keep a very close eye on the oil filter - the dislodged sludge will choke the filter and even though it has a pressure relief/bypass it would have dangerously low oil flow/pressure. I used a solvent detergent additive about a year ago in a used car I bought and when I checked the oil filter at less than 1K miles it was partially collapsed - did an oil change then and another two at 1K interval and thereafter went to 5K interval.

I would go with this, if you're not in a very cold/freezing climate. Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon (3 Pack)

With a new oil pump and the pressure remaining low it points to bearing issues - if you intend keeping it then it may be time to start looking at replacement engine, rebuilt exchange engines is an option.

Not suggesting that the BMS reset is related to the "ABS, AWD, Servicetrac lights" being ON, but still good practice. With those warning lights and no fault codes showing on the code reader I would advise that you get it read at a place like Autozone or get an OBDII adapter to use with ForscanLite. A bit of non-technical advice - you might get a little more interest in your posts if you used a little structure instead of the "wall of text" - some folks, myself included, find it hard to read and digest - of course that's not mandatory.

Did you reset the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) after installing the new battery? If not do a search for the procedure for that. .

Nice car. Time to update your profile signature.

Same topic threads merged.

Yes, I've done it both ways, bulk of the volume just gravity filled and then the rest of the way with the vacuum device, and complete fill with the vacuum device and this method sometimes takes two steps drawing vacuum. Attached pictures showing how I drain the system - I use a leaf blower or compressed air on the expansion tank and it gets more out - that's why the drain hose is restrained in the bucket.

Because of the throat of the expansion tank design the conical tapered rubber stoppers don't work - you need to try a few of the other plain types that will seal on the top edge of the opening. .