1004ron

This video is exactly what I'm encountering - CV axle should be delivered next week and I'll install it on the weekend.

Is your photo the rear wiper spray nozzle?

Welcome. rear camera on 2013 Edge - Google Search

The fact that you're using "mechanic 1 & 2" suggests that you don't DIY, so I'd suggest that you find a reputable real mechanic to perform diagnostics and repair - a real mechanic would more likely solve the issue and cost less than #1 and #2. There's a multitude of potential causes for a "crank no start" and without more info and fault codes all folks here would be guessing, and then to pass those "guesses" onto #1 and #2 would be futile. How on earth did #1 think that a low oil pressure switch would prevent it from starting??????

I've bought them from eBay and had no issues with them. With the later models such as yours the vehicle will auto-learn the new sensors and their location after a few miles - you can also get a $10 trigger device and put your vehicle in learn mode and trigger each wheel. 4X Tire Pressure Sensor OEM F2GZ1A189AB I've also bought from Amazon with no issues. TPMS Tire Pressure Sensors 315MHz

Do you suspect this is related to the serpentine belt? Best buy an OBDII dongle and use the free app Forscan Lite to read and reset the codes - Autozone can also do this free of charge. What's the coolant temp gauge showing? If the coolant issue is unresolved, you won't be able to reset the code.

Any chance you could post a photo of the bad coil? If it burnt up, I'd suspect that the spark plug isn't seated properly and leaking hot combustion gas.

Welcome. I would focus on the cause of the failed fairly new coil pack. You talk of the coil pack and then mention the injector - I'm guessing it's not direct injection but puzzled by the mention of the injector. Where were these purchased? - many counterfeit versions of these on the market.

New control arm was delivered this afternoon and its installed. Examining the old control arm bushes and ball-joint I'd say its in perfect serviceable condition. The job is a real challenge and my advice is don't tackle this on your own in your garage - at least have a friend work with you and better still have a shop lift. The bolts were SUPER tight - had to use a makeshift extension to my long breaker bar. It is really difficult to get the bushes engaged and the ball joint. The drive shaft popped out and spilt a little more than half a quart - I just let it dribble into an oil pan while I manipulated the control arm into place. Tomorrow I'll take it for a drive to get the tans temps up and then top up the fluid - not expecting any change to the shimmy shake, but if it has resolved it I'll be very happy. Now I'm thinking possibly the strut bearing?

New original equipment tires, Pirelli installed on Monday at Costco - no change in the shimmy shake, but significantly quieter than the Bridgestone that were on.

Recently occasionally when I back out my garage then turn the wheel full lock to the right to move down my driveway I've heard and felt a soft knock on the left front. I have all my wrenching life avoiding the use of the "Parts Cannon", but that's about to change. I suspected the left lower control arm bushes or ball joint so a couple of days ago I took a closer look at them, also used a pry bar to see if I could invoke some movement, but none - the inspection method used is flawed in that the control arm is in a taught position with the suspension fully extended. I've ordered a new Fomoco control arm for $213 delivered, that might arrive in time for installation this weekend or it'll be the next weekend.

Congrats. From the same dealer and with the same maintenance package serviced by them?

The free flow air filters obviously allow more damaging particulate to pass through which is the most significant factor for me, but many are misled by the claims of increased power. There are other components that dictate the maximum air the engine can ingest.

Welcome. 14.8v seems a little high. When you replaced the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)? It could also be a parasitic drain - do a search for that and you'll find a few good YouTube videos on how. Places like AutoZone have testers that check the CCA, Cranking Voltage, and Charge rates - have them do that.

His would be the 2.7L V6 Twin Turbo. I did my serpentine belt kit (belt, idler and tensioner) at 103K miles and would say that 100K miles is a good interval for this.