1004ron

This morning's commute to work in a storm made me appreciate the rain sensing wipers - the auto change from intermittent to continuous and speed adjustment based on the need worked flawlessly.

Wow, that's more work than I'd be willing to do for that feature - turning off for me using the screen would also be an issue. I most often forget to turn it off when approaching the car was and their spray triggers the wipers and I have to scramble to turn the rain sensing off. My wife's BMW X5 is smarter - it turns off when the ignition is turned off and when you need it again with the first few rain drops you tap the button on the end of the stalk.

Yes, the rain sensor needs a clear spot. I don't think it will be easy to remove the coating in this area. Look to see if you can find the yellow and black wires seen in the below photo.

Definitely need a replacement windshield to mount the rain sensor. See the rain sensor mounting in the below thread:

Don't have any suggestions other than checking for codes with Forscan.

Welcome. I'd be surprised if it doesn't have rain sensing wipers. Could you post a photo of the windshield looking from the outside directly in front of the rearview mirror - that would confirm if you have the sensor. If it doesn't have the rain sensor you'd probably need and new windshield, the sensor and possibly other electronics. Does it have the original or a Ford OEM windshield installed?

I found it reasonably accurate.

Welcome. If you buy a reputable brand they'll be direct replacement and will not trigger fault codes. LED's beam focus may have improved in recent years, but most I've seen that installed LED's into a light assembly not designed for them typically blind the oncoming traffic with the low beams ON.

The KYB strut mounts are widely considered to be problematic. KYB Strut Plus SUCK | BobIsTheOilGuy .

OK, that's good. How about the second part of the question?

Just revisiting this - fairly risky to drain the coolant with it at normal operating temperature and even if that was done, it would be well below operating temperature with the new cold coolant just added and would take longer than 10 minutes to get back up to operating temperature.

I have done two drain-fills on my 2017 Sport. The fact that the new spec Ford coolant is compatible with the old spec there's no issue with not purging all the old coolant and I didn't purge the system on each occasion - the first time it the fluid in the reservoir didn't look anything like the new color, and with the second drain-fill its closer to the new color. Maybe next time I'll purge it with distilled water before refilling.

Not sure who that comment was directed at? I always buy the concentrate and mix it 50/50 and the product details state clearly not to go higher than 60/40. My comment was to drain/fill a few times with distilled water and that way you would have removed about all of the old coolant mix, then go back with say a 60/40 mix knowing that the engine still contains some straight distilled water. I use a vacuum fill kit similar to this.

"Must have been RockAuto." - That doesn't sound like a confident response to me. Reliable code reading is the best starting point. .

The only way to get only the new coolant in the system is to do a few drain-fills with distilled water and then the final fill with a higher concentration of the new coolant expecting some distilled water to remain in the engine.