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Follow the directions to the post in this thread.

Like all insurance, it's a gamble. If it was for the SEL with the internal coolant pump, it might be worth that insurance. Is it a service plan or an extended warranty plan? If I was considering this type of thing I'd stay well clear of the 3rd party ones and stick with Ford plans.

I don't fully understand what the issue is. If the USB wasn't formatted to FAT the content/update would not have loaded in the vehicle. You could copy the content to a folder on your computer, correctly format the USB and return the files to the USB and then use it to update the vehicle.

Post the website URL

Welcome, I don't recall seeing any typical coolant loss issues with the 2.7L I would pull the spark plugs and look for signs like a very clean one. Also, Autozone rent out the equipment to sniff for combustion gases in the coolant reservoir with the engine running, and if none of that reveals anything then a compression and leak-down test.

What oil change interval have you been using? What specific oil and oil filter do you use? Another potential cause for oil loss is the PCV valve. What Model do you have? - please add your Model and Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

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j4vier129 is the latest account to be hacked and now banned.

Welcome. Appears that you have a problem with the fuel pump. View the fuel rail pressure with an app like FORScan of FORScan Lite. Please add your model "2017 Ford Edge Sport 2.7 " to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Quite a few weeks back during a monsoon rain I went through some fairly deep water and the flutter/rattle has been there since. Today I found that two of the plastic posts on the left and one of them on the right had popped out the body. Inserted them again and added thin cable ties between the felt shield and the plastic post. The plastic posts seen in the images @Haz posted look significantly different to the ones on my Edge - is there a later version available?

The internal fuse does not effect voltage and resistance measurement. 400 mA is way too low for what you were attempting and wouldn't take much to blow the meters fuse. Ask O'Reilly to do a load test on the battery - best take it to them fully charged.

@KailuaEscape my guess is that you've blown the fuse in the multimeter. The battery health needs to be tested with a device that assess its response to a load being applied - places like AutoZone will do that free of charge.

What's this about?

I would start by scanning it with FORScan or FORScan Lite. Edit: Same topic threads merged - not good practice to create multiple same topic threads.

What are the 17 codes you mention? Most likely the valve timing is not correct.