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1004ron

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About 1004ron

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  1. $15 and its yours. Yes I have PayPal - send me your details and address by PM/DM. The link to Amazon has a description of how the switch is used. The main reason why I no longer use it is because I mainly use portable devices that don't have USB and the need to use the switch at certain times. .
  2. I'm not sure about that one. This is one I have but no longer use - it needed to be switch between the two bus speeds but does work - I'd let it go to a good home for the mail costs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY?th=1
  3. A basic fairly cheap OBDII dongle and the free Forscan Lite is all that's needed to reliably scan for codes. Some places like Autozone have scan tools that can reliably read all Ford codes, but its hit and miss.
  4. Its only recent years that DC clamp meters became available - is yours one of the later models that's DC capable?
  5. It takes just one deep discharge to destroy a lead-acid battery, which a parasitic draw will do - thank goodness for Costco's good warranty cover, but they might not be so willing if the replacement is returned in a few days, so best disconnect the battery when the car is not in use until the parasitic draw is resolved.
  6. Not too sure of what's written but it sounds like I was right, a dead battery. While at Autozone have them put their battery tester on it which will display state of charge, CCA, Cranking Voltage and charging Voltage.
  7. Battery appears to be past its useful life. Charge it and then take it to a place like Autozone for them to do a health check on it, free of charge. .
  8. Expect you'll get an abundance of personal preferences presented - here's mine. I have Akebono on my Edge Sport and wife's BMW X5 and very happy with them, and the bonus is "no dust". https://www.akebonobrakes.com/domestic
  9. And Model? - Part Number ? Have you measured the resistance/continuity of the heaters and confirmed voltage across them?
  10. TOPDON is what I'd consider middle range - there's a few other brands that are cheaper and have good reviews.
  11. The Fluke 77 was the top of the line multimeter when I got it in 1983 and it's still going strong, however that is not what I use to assess a battery's health for the reasons explained above.
  12. A 600 CCA rated battery would be consider past its useful life long before the CCA drops anywhere as low as 10.0A The settled voltage of the battery is only an indication of its level of charge, not an indication of its health/CCA capacity. .
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