snmjim

Anyone that installed the UP have any trouble tapping the sensor and bolt? Did you use silicone on the bolt?

Thanks!

If your talking about the UP IC sensor then my answer is we've done 3 and they all were a non issue with no special accomadations.

However, note that you are working with aluminum therefore be gentle with how tight you go, it's only a sensor...;-)

Hey, the video sounds fantastic. Did you end up pairing this with an aftermarket exhaust? I'm interested in the resonator delete, but I don't want the car to end up sounding like shit...especially if I pair it with the MRT exhaust, or something similar.

No, that was strictly just the removal of the resonator and leaving the remainder of the exhaust Sys stock...

If you elect to remove the resonator and change the muffler I'd appreciate a review of the end result with sound sample and what muffler you went with...

Reminder: if you elect to change out the muffler as well beware of highway cruising tone, with some mufflers it can be very obnoxious after a while.

We operate by the concept of "value added for effort & capital expended" therefore on that note why change the muffler when we had it verified that the stock muffler isn't creating any significant restrictions and flows quit well for stock???

I was actually talking to the guy with the Intercooler...

I am also waiting for another chance at the track but with the traction issues I'm having I need a working engine mount first.

If your issue is with the RMM then your answer may be here:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23572-rear-motor-mount-rmm-2016-edge-sport/

Let's see some slips :-)

How about let's see some DAs under 500 and a hole in my schedule that coincides with the only two days of the Wk we're allowed to use the track...

I got over it after they sent me a full refund. They did list vehicle as compatible. I doubt they ever saw a Conti and just assumed.

Will they fit the 2016 Sport?

If so how much would you want?

BTW,

Also recommend drilling these drain holes:

Great Reco guys!

They look better than any I've seen so far and the install went good as well.

The rears required a little strong arming but if you start with the center screw and loose fit it until the top & bottom are in all goes well.

Ref Pics but pardon the dirt, due for a wash...;-)

Root & Randy, did your package say they were for a BMW?

If you have the paperwork that came with them still can you please send me a copy via PM please.

I think the wheels will come off.

As long as yours don't I should be safe...;-)

We still have HPFP, Downpipes & high volume CAI to go which will be another 50-75 whp after tuning...

Then what comes next is a mystery..

In the December 2018 issue of Chevy High Performance magazine there is an article about a Chevy Big Block crate engine. The engine is the Chevy ZZ454 from Chevy Performance sporting 440hp and 500 ft pounds of torque at the crank. It is installed into a 67' Chevelle with a 700-R4 transmission. When this combo was put on a dyno it produced 344HP and 372 TQ at the rear wheels.

 

For a little prospective, my Edge Sport made 348HP and 394TQ AWD - WHP. Thats 4 more HP and 22 pounds more TQ than the ZZ454 V8

Snmjim's car made 386HP and 415TQ AWD - WHP. Thats a whopping 42HP and 43 pounds more Torque than the Chevy ZZ454 Big Block did ! And thats with a 164 CI EcoBoost V6 ! :happy feet:

Great way of putting it into perspective Brother!

Thnx for the numbers...;-)

Small screws from McMaster Carr usually come in a box of like 50 or 100 so I'll send you a handful when I get them if you want. I need to wait until my paddles arrive so I can determine the thread size.

Hey there Root,

If you have some to spare I could use a set please...;-)

Just completed the install. It was easy enough and took around 10 min using the tiny set screws. I first started the screws before I put the paddles in place then had to tighten them each a little at a time. I went to each screw several times until they were evenly adjusted. If you try to tighten up one screw fully before the others the screw will just pass through the paddle and fall out the other side. The kit included 4 extra set screws. The paddles look and fit good and I hope they work as good as they look. I will road test later.

 

IMG_1022.JPG IMG_1026.JPG

 

IMG_1027.JPG IMG_1035.JPG

 

Xtra,

Anxiously standing by for your Eval...

Looks good. I agree having them a little bigger will help when shifting during tight cornering. Normally with my hands at a comfortable wheel position, I can only reach the paddles with my pinky fingers. Its tough to get to them at all when the wheel is turned.

 

Just ordered mine from AliExpress and used a first-time buyer $4 off coupon so all-in I only spent $34.60 with free shipping.

I will probably get some black oxide coated set screws to make them less noticeable.

 

On eBay they are $56, but not sure if those are from the same mfg

I anxiously await your Eval so I can make a purchase determination.

Here's the link for those interested in this source vise the one I provided earlier in this topic string:

BTW, both paddle manufacturers being discussed here are Savanini.

Paddle shifters Edge:

https://m.aliexpress.com/wholesale/Paddle-shifters-edge.html?channel=direct&keywords=Paddle-shifters-edge

Here's the link:

Shifter paddle extesions:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Red-Alloy-Steering-Wheel-DSG-Paddle-Extension-Shifters-For-Ford-Edge-15-2016/163108342421?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F163108342421%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3D963e7fbd1650abc02d834729ffde7658&ul_noapp=true

Finally got my bar installed last week..combined with the H&R Lowering springs the set up on my Edge is greatly improved. Good call Special K & SNMJIM !

You are most graciously welcome... :happy feet:

Yeah, at about the same time & event we had the same noise and found it after several of us violently shook the rear of the car from left to right.

And it was.....

Wait for it....

The exhaust pipe sashaying left & right usually when going over uneven bumps i.e. speed bumps at an angle.

The curved section of the tail pipes where they exit the muffler were clapping against my tow hitch framing.

Therefore, we used a body panel hammer (square head) to beat the inside of the tailpipe curvature slightly flatter than it normally is and BAM sound gone.

For those without a hitch...hopefully this provided some food for thought...;-)

 

my bad...I sent it to Special K for approval......

Just as good if not better...in some cases...lol

Disregard,

Ref post #181

Root,

Great write up & Pics...???

Thnx!!!

Umm..I sent it to you earlier and you replied "Sure" so I assumed that meant post it!

Don't recall however, to keep my senility factor in check can you please direct me to where I stated "Sure" so I can also get a reality check?

BTW, I reviewed the edits/updates, apparently twice now, and they're definitely beneficial.

I'm adding this one to my library of supporting Tech Docs, good job...???

posted here, they are a complete set...front and back, both appear to fit

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24894-mud-flaps-guards-for-15-17-sport-trim/

Thnx for the link, much appreciated..

here is updated Spring install doc with approval from snmjim

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wQ3WRD6zvzHaAbxE3hCZpyKIwbBI3-Gs/view

Are you requesting my review & concurrence?

Installed my Chinese mud flaps today and I'm surprised to say that they fit very well! Much better than the OEM ones I had on the front before. I like that they are 3D molded and not just flat rally style flaps. I think they look great. Both front and rear match the body profile about as good as could be, no mismatch or gaps at all. I did have to drill one hole in the rear one because the middle hole location was off a bit, but only on one side which was weird. Also, the lower inner portion of the rears doesn't match quite right, but once installed you can't really notice. I'd recommend them though, especially since this is the best option I've been able to find. For the fronts I used the existing plastic push rivets, but they are the slightly longer ones that came with the OEM flaps, so it's probably a good idea to get some longer 1/4" diameter rivets to account for the thickness of the flaps. For the rears I used the small fender liner screws that are already there. I'm not sure if my flaps are different than NoDTMF's, but my install seems to have gone much smoother, took about an hour. I also did it without removing the wheels so that helped. I can take some more pictures if anyone wants to see, just let me know. I can also post a step by step how-to if anyone wants. (sorry my phone rotates the pics 90 degrees, will fix later)

PS, the eBay seller's name was frederic1313 and he kept me up to date with the shipment via email, took about 3 weeks I think.

I'd really appreciate that Do It Yourself (DIY) instruction at your earliest opportunity along with a purchase link.

Thanks for running this ball across the goal Brother...????

I bought the same Chinese mudflaps. They took a few weeks to arrive, but the seller kept me informed on the progress of the order. I will be installing them this weekend, afterwards I will post a review with pics too. I also bought the OEM ford front mud flaps and have had them on since I bought the car.

Looking Fwd to your write up with Pics & DIY details hopefully...;-)