snmjim

On 2/21/2019 at 11:32 PM, Nate Courtright said:

Thinking about getting the rear bar. For those of you who have already,  is it worth it? Significantly reduced body roll and understeer? Or not really that big a difference?

 

Thanks

Hey there Nate great question!

If your not one for road racing or as some put it "driving passionately" of which the COPS still call speeding or driving recklessly...lol...you'll be fine running stock. It's for those of us who like to thrash our cars around those curvy roads every now & then.

Note: If I didn't have mine I wouldn't be able to hold those off & on ramps at 65-75 mph, that also includes the H&R lowered springs and 275/20 or 285/19 wheels & tires...

Add to list:

2.5 DOWNPIPES

Pricing:

Catless 304ss downpipe - $925

Hi-Flo Cat 304ss downpipe - $1125

Option: Add $100 for cerakote (heat management)

Group buys require a partial deposit to lock in group price:

 
Catless:
5 sets = $850 ea set

10 sets = $775 ea set

Hi-Flo:
5 sets = $1050 ea set
10 sets = $975 ea set

 

Purchase Info:

Zury Fabrications
Zurymakesit@yahoo.com

Website

http://www.zuryfabrications.com/

(410) 579-1470

 

Note: Fitting to a stock or 2.5 exhaust system must be clarifed!!!

Add to list: 

https://adamtuned.myshopify.com/products/upr-crankcase-breather-for-all-ecoboost-vehicles-focus-rs-mustang-fiesta-focus-f-150?variant=41268812496

Initial post Pics updated...

17 hours ago, Close to the edge said:

I'm curious.  How hard are these going to be to install?  

Of course for this level of work you should have the manual and general experience at an average Techs ability.

The back pipe is the easiest, it just requires removal of the exhause Sys, drive shaft and tunnel cross member...?

The front is another beast. This one will require removal of the entire front clip, headlights & cooling table...

Recommendations:

Drain anti-freeze, Trans fluids & pump down the a/c.

You should replace exhaust flange gasket and the 2 exhaust flange nuts.

It would be a good idea to replace the exhaust flange studs or at least have them on hand..

Liberally use anti-seeze.

Replace front & rear drive shaft bolts & torque to Spec!

NOTE: YOU MUST BE TUNED!!!

This is over simplification however, it covers the major points...

17 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Now to get past the Wall of Fiscal Responsibility, aka The Wife.  LOL.

May the force be with you...lol

So in other words, you're screwed...roflmao!!!

11 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Sweet!  Definitely opt for the Cerakote to a) save your PTU, and b) to improve longevity esp in rust belt states.

 

Can you get the coating in multiple colors, or "any color as long as it is black"?

Basic colors are available...

10 minutes ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Happy for you, sad for me LOL.

 

Why?  Coz it reminds me I still don't have a Gen 2 Sport!!!

I can fix that...???

I know of a couple Ole people who are selling their Gen 2.

They just use it as a grocery getter, never pushed or modified, the perfect resale.

SOLD, SOLD, SOLD!!!

AS PROMISED...

2.5 DOWNPIPES ARE READY TO ORDER!!!

Note: As stated many times before we do no benefit in any way other than the development credits.

Pricing:

Catless 304ss downpipes - $925

Hi-Flo Cat 304ss downpipes - $1125

Option: Add $100 for cerakote (heat management)

Group buys require a partial deposit to lock in group price:

Catless:
5 sets = $850 ea set

10 sets = $775 ea set

Hi-Flo:
5 sets = $1050 ea set
10 sets = $975 ea set

Purchase Info:

Zury Fabrications
Zurymakesit@yahoo.com

Website

http://www.zuryfabrications.com/

(410) 579-1470

Note: You MUST clarify if your fitting to a stock or 2.5 exhaust system!!!

For finished product Pics Ref my initial post, post # one, on page one of this topic string...

2 hours ago, Close to the edge said:

Let me ask this because I ran into it in my camaro and my GTP.  When I ran HF Cats, my check engine would trip.  Is there going to be a fix for this?  Back then I would have to run 02 simulators

 

Considering no one has yet to try any type of modified downpipes on this platform, that we know of, we'll soon find the real answer to that question.

For those who don't know...there are a few ways of dealing with the o2 issue of which we prefer the following in presented order of preference:

- Identifying the best o2 location/placement

- Identifying the best o2 defouler/spacer for your engine make & model that will not throw codes

- Deleting the o2 from the Tune  

On 4/10/2019 at 5:25 PM, therealratfink said:

I am very interested in catted pipes. I can tig cats in, how would I get the pipes? Also, are there going to be O2 bungs etc?

 

Hang in there, we're 1-2 Wks from completion for design development, fitment, fabrication and install.

The options will be:

- 2.5 downpipes with Hi-Flow Cats

- 2.5 downpipes without Cats

- With o2 bungs

- Ceramic coating heat management in a selection of basic colors

Notes:

- The pipes will come tapered to bolt up to the stock exhaust Sys.

- A special order will be required to have it match up to a complete 2.5 exhaust system.

In a effort to reduce fabrication lead times it would help if we could get some idea of those interested so please chime in here soon...

Initial post updated...

Updated Post with new All Season tires with only 500-750 miles of highway use.

On 3/29/2019 at 8:54 PM, axeman_87 said:

What is the part number for original intercooler grille for a sport? With the block heater hole. Can't find any with the hole. It's on the passenger side. I found one but the plug is on the wrong side. 

 

Thanks

I would call your local Ford dealer parts Dept, that's one of our most reliable parts research methods...

6 hours ago, 1004ron said:

Thanks for this informative post.

 

I'm happy with the the original brakes performance and was planning to stick with OEM pads, but recently I've been reconsidering that.

 

My 2017 Sport with 21" wheels is at two years and 39K miles, and since a couple of months ago I've notice and heard a slight vibration from the front when applying brakes at 70 mph, but below 50 mph its quiet and smooth - this had me start searching for a way to address this slight vibration and this led me to your post.

 

When I checked the pads at 36K miles they still had around 50% material left, but will be installing a Power Stop kit before they're actually due for replacement because of the vibration - a shame to spend money on this when the pads have so much material left on them.

 

I'm thinking of just doing the front with the Power Stop K7143 and the $15 rebate which makes it $159

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2017,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3434543,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824

 

Please confirm that it is the 345mm Front Rotors.

From my research on RockAuto and the 2016 Ford Edge Sport in general which applies to late model 2015 thru 2018 you have the 345mm rotors, I also confirmed this with RockAuto & Power Stop. Therefore you are ordering the correct kit however, you may want to give strong consideration to replacing all brakes based on age alone due to warping & rotor hot spots & micro fractures which could lead to a very ugly outcome.

Being 62 and that project being like 12 projects ago there is no way for me to remember socket sizes, sorry there however if you don't have a complete compliment of tools you may want to solicit some help, especially with the overhaul parts, especially the rubber slider bushings.

Your caliper pistons do not require any special treatment to retract the pistons just use the standard retracting tool.

BIG NOTE:

Per the factory service manual (FSM) you MUST go into the dash menu and put your brakes into the service/maintenance mode before start of work and taken out of that mode once service is complete!

NEVER CUT CORNERS ON SAFETY ITEMS ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO Hi-Po APPLICATIONS!!!...

5 hours ago, THE_BOLT said:

What brand of clamps and hoses did you go with? Also where to buy them?  I'm doing both the intercooler and cold side pipe

We use Vibrant Performance T-Bolt clamps for our boost tubes and their V-Band clamp Sys for exhaust Sys.

Make sure you get the correct size for the job at hand.

https://stores.pepboys.com.

Aside from cooler intake Temps you will not see a notable performance improvement until you Tune for it..

6 minutes ago, Sage said:

Has anyone tried a set on the Edge ST?  Not sure if the paddles are different than some earlier years.  

 You can always contact your local Ford parts dealer and ask them to compare the part numbers for the paddle shifters or next higher assembly the steering wheel of the 2 years and if they are the same then you're good to go...

12 hours ago, axeman_87 said:

I cant seem to get the link to work. PDF just fails to download. I would really like to see how. I need to replace my front Intercooler Grille.

PM me to remind me to repost that one when I get back home this Sun Eve. Apparently the transition to the new site broke all of our attached DIY Docs...boo freaking hoo...more work for us...

1 hour ago, Nick Halstead said:

 

Rear Bumper Cover Dis and Assembly.pdf

Nice try Nick but I think they're looking for the front one since they want to access the IC grill...;-)

21 hours ago, bcenter91 said:

Hello - I’ve been somewhat of a shadow member, but recently started purchasing per your recommendations. To date, I have a lms 93 tune, rmm, jlt catch can, and ordered h&r springs.

 

Im interested in the downpipe setup you all have been developing. Curious if these subject pipes would be a nice sound/performance boost or if I should hold off for what’s to come?

 

Thanks for all the insight.

 

*edit...answered my own question.

Hey there bcenter91!

Thnx 4 lurking us...lol

If you've been following our exhaust Sys research & development section:

You'll be able to stay abreast of our developments however, to give you what we have so far the following applies:

Not knowing the depth of your knowledge in this area I'll make the assumption that you are just beginning therefore, you will probably get more details than needed. So going forward I wanna clarify that the down pipe is the section of exhaust pipe that comes immediately off of the Turbo and in today's technology manufactures are generally placing the catalytic converter as close to the Turbo as possible therefore, they makeup a large part of the downpipe Assy.

The catalytic converter in itself creates exhaust pressure resistance which reduces the amount of free flow from the Turbo which is another horse power consumer. Generally when replacing down pipes you either have the catalytic converters removed, then you'll have to deal with your local emissions requirements, there are ways of dealing with that of which I'd be more than happy to discuss if desired, and the other option is for those who are trying to stay in compliance of local emissions requirements can go with what's called a high flow catalytic converter which reduces some of the exhaust pressure restriction. 

So all of this to say if you're looking to just change the exhaust signature of your engine I would not recommend changing the down pipes due to the amount of labor involved but instead change everything after the down pipes to the exhaust system that will give you the exhaust signature you desire.

Note: removing the catalytic converters and going with what we call catless or straight pipes, that in itself will change the exhaust signature and will require use of various types of resonators and/or muffler Combos depending on what you're trying to achieve.

I repeat...generally the down pipes are not changed out unless you're looking for maximum performance but yes it will make an awesome exhaust signature difference...

11 hours ago, Cree said:

Thinking about installing the lms tune/160 tstat combo. Reading through the thread, has anyone had any issues after instal? I live in the Bay Area and often go to Tahoe in the winter. My concerns are negitive effects on the ECU’s as xtra touched on and if it would be in my best interest to go back to stock tstat when I go to the mountains where it is much colder.  My 2015 is otherwise stock except for an axel back exhaust. 

This is a topic best discussed with your Tuner of choice however, I have found that with geographical differences in temperature 170 seems to be the preference of Tuners.

Note:  Today's engines require achieving a specific operational temperature range in order to operate properly, too cold or too hot and you will not make maximum power or efficiency. ..

On ‎2‎/‎23‎/‎2019 at 4:59 PM, 1004ron said:

Anyone using the UPR drain plug?

 

I won't be getting one at $50 seeing as I've not had any issues with mine.

OEM is $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Plug-Drain-Number-FT4Z6730A/dp/B01JAU88JK/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford|54&Model=Edge|5858&Year=2017|2017&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

 

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

 

https://www.lethalperformance.com/upr-products-billet-drain-plug-with-magnetic-tip-3025-01.html

 

 

None here however, I do think it should be added to the list and I'll be getting one because it resolves my issue with the stock OEM plug which is exactly what was pointed out, there's nothing to grab in order to turn & pull out.

 

 

 

 

Custom aluminum spun thermal Cups with sealed lids to Match Your Car!

Top of cup in the color of your car or color of choice with the lower part in black.

Make of car on bottom.

Model of car on one side with your name on the other.

$45 ea

Cups with additional customizations i.e. engine size, Hp, vertical wording, etc. $65

Request & Payment by PayPal to snmjimbo@gmail.com 
Shipping at buyers expense

56 minutes ago, veener79 said:

That is what I was thinking with the intake off I an put a scope down the head to see what shape they are in.  

Taking the intake off isn't necessary.

Just remove the throttle body then send your scope down the intake to inspect the stem side of the intake valves.