Kanatronic

I looked under the vehicle and not sure if yours is like mine, but mine has a black plastic splash guard in the way all across the front side, and only leave you an small hole on each corner, to inser the hand in there, of course I just took a quick peak but I do not think that there is room enough to do that, unless you remove the black thing (at least partially)....

Thanks for the reply. I did read it, but it is not very detailed, as for example, the case of the tail lights that they even have a picture or a diagram of how to remove them. Just for curiosity what th hell is the splash guard? How hard is to remove it? I know that the back of the lamp is the same as the low beams, but looking under it, I did not see any access to the bulbs.... :angry:

I just replaced my front low and hi beams with the Nightbreakers and some HIR1 from Toshiba, this upgrade left me a good taste in my mouth and I was wondering how hard are to replace the fog light bulbs as well. The fronts were a piece of cake, I asked Daniel Stern and he recomended me the Nightbreakers as well, but my only concern is how hard to replace they are, are they accesible as the low and high beams, any experience on those???

I just replaced my front low and hi beams with the Nightbreakers and some HIR1 from Toshiba, this upgrade left me a good taste in my mouth and I was wondering how hard are to replace the fog light bulbs as well. The fronts were a piece of cake, I asked Daniel Stern and he recomended me the Nightbreakers as well, but my only concern is how hard to replace they are, are they accesible as the low and high beams, any experience on those???

I just replaced my front low and hi beams with the Nightbreakers and some HIR1 from Toshiba, this upgrade left me a good taste in my mouth and I was wondering how hard are to replace the fog light bulbs as well. The fronts were a piece of cake, I asked Daniel Stern and he recomended me the Nightbreakers as well, but my only concern is how hard to replace they are, are they accesible as the low and high beams, any experience on those???

Com'on man be serious, they are all sellers, OK let's assume they are among the good ones... According to some research I did the 2ohms rating is just ot take under consideration the loss becasue of the cabling and coil heating, which bumps it a couple of ohms after, so they are basically 4ohms at the end....I'm considering those, a set of JBL's and the Morel tempo, those are my favorites but still need ot find out about the fit...About the returns, IIRC usually mounted speakers with marks are not returnable, so be careful, not to scratch them... BTW they may be conservative and also expensive as hell....LOL...

I'm not saying that it will damage the headunit, indeed the headunit have protection for shorting as well, but you create an imbalance in the volume in reference with the subwoofer, the subwoofer is matched to the existing speakers, which are 4 ohms of impednace, placing 2 ohms will make them sound louder in reference to the subwoofer volume...anyway if you like the result good, but I suggest to attach to the riginal impedance 4 ohms, if the Kappa gives you the option, just change them to 4 ohms...

Forget about what a seller can tell you, they are all after sales, specially if they have a good stock of them... I have a little knowledge on audio, working as an audio dealer for a while, and I can tell that if the stock are 4 ohms, the replacement should be 4 ohms as well, unless you are replacing all spekaers including the subwoofer as well for a 2 ohms with similar sesitivity. Otherwise you may create a mismatch in the volume as the 2 ohms tend to be louder than the 4 ohms, at the same volume (unless restricted by the xover) so in other words, they will be overpowering the sound over the subwoofer, messing the integration that you should have among them, unless you have a way to increase the volume of the sub, or decrasing the volume on the speakers, but you have no way of doing it, unless with a dedicated amp....

The car stays on for 20 minutes if started by the remote start, after 20 minutes it will shut down...How is that thing of the antenna are you serious I would place a yagi is I need to just ot start if from long distance specially at my work, it is visible???

THe only thing i do not like about it was that is only effective at around 33' from the vehicle, at that distance I'm almost inside the car, and the panic button is also not very effective, any way of increasing that distance?

Which is the exact size for them? Most fo the sites carry 5x7 and 6x9, but not 5x8??? Aslo does anybody had measured the niminal impedance of the stock ones, the Kappa are rated 2 ohms, before pulling the plug I would like to know of the stock are rated two ohms, does anybody cna maesure them with a multimeter across de leads... I mean, that has much to do with the sensitivity, and overall SPL at a given power, as we do not want to replace the subwoofer? Usually 2 ohms speakers tend to be louder for the same output than a 4 ohms one...

Not sure fi the Edga has an internal filter for the air, those usually are easily replaceable, and if the odor is attached to it, it will came back as soon as you use the AC again...try replacing it...

To replace a cracked rear bumper will cost you easily over $700.00, maybe it will not be a safety hazard for the humans, but for the wallet, sure it is... :wacko: So the TSB and the modification of the software, that was introduced in the plant in January, was just because of driver errors, as well right?... Also I do not consider the rollbackwards while removing the foot from the brake and try to reach the gas, a driver error at all...period...we are not supposed to drive with both feet an automatic car, and we all do that in one way or another. And sorry to tell you that I rather prefer that someone related with the design, maybe from Ford, take the time to offer any idea or any explanation, or maybe if they did, point me to the place where to get the right info, and place the period in the discussion, and not someone not related at all wit the design, and that could be somewhat guessing what the real cause for that design oversight was...

Please read about lighting in the Daniel Stern Website. Most of those "xeon upgrades" are just blue painted halogen bulbs, which are not an step over rather than a downgrade on the lighting, as the blue glass will filter all the freqs we actually need to see at night...

I'm not saying that I do not use the brakes to stop the car, of course I do, but there is an instant in which you release the brakes and got for the gas pedal, that is where the problem becomes critical, as the other cars are not aware of the roll back, and they tend to be smelling your rear end all the time. There is not way you could be calculating this distance for others as a daily basis, right now I'm used to it, but trust me that when they got 150 reports of accidents because of that issue, and someone go to the court, or maybe someone a little above us place a formal legal complaint, then suddenly they will become a safety issue, and they will place the recall, so my question is, why waiting till this happen?

Ok let's remove the air bags from our cars, becasue the guys that drive bikes have no air bags, and they have not complained till now, is that the logic behind that, right? Please stop the absurd comparison of two completely different designed vehicles, the guys that drive stick are used to drive with both feet, for them that is not an issue, and they choose to do so, for us is annoying, as we do not chose so...and BTW how many guys drive shitf? One in every 100 drivers, or even less, so if they want to roll back, that is their prerrogative, I do not want it, and I have not in any of my prior vehicles, so why I should in this one?

We beleive so, but that has not been confirmed by any offcial source, and no service manager has been able to tell me why for sure, and I have not read any official statement from Ford saying that it is due to the design of the converter, honestly it is better t obeleive that is due to that, ratherthan a defect...LOL...But OTOH they implemented a sofware upgrade also in the plant, according to the TSB...so maybe on top of that, there was something wrong on the settings as well...

Sorry but it was not about your post, of course not, indeed yours was very informative. I wish all of them, instead of complaining of us posting our problems, which this forum is the best place IMO (as to post how good the Edge is, and make this a peer padding place we do not need a forum right) dedicate time as you did, to supply valid info. No, it was intended for those who did/do the opposite of what you did...sorry, also maybe rant was not the right word, but something similar will work as well... .

Guys I'm not sure if you are aware, that regardless of your rant, there is TSB that was released to that effect, and even was modified and updated after, also the software was updated and implemented in the plant as well. So the facts indicate that there was, or better is, a problem, just that the solution offered is not 100% effective yet. It was released for all 2008 Edge and MKX vehicles built before 1/07/2008, and that in other words, it shows that there is a new calibration that will improve the hold capability on a slight grade and improve the ability to creep in drive and reverse (but mine still rolls back even in slight grade slopes). The solution as I was told by the service manager, was to reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 53.4 and higher, that is not the one included in the VCM 2008.1 DVD (Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com). Also as a side note this new calibration is the one that is now in production in the plant since 1/7/2008. So vehicles made after that date are excluded from the service and still will roll back if they do now...

Well the car I almost hit was too close to my rear end, and being on a hill it was not safe to do that, but it was his fault, and even though we never collide at the end, but it was an stressing situation... Even while agree with the first part , I do not think is a defect neither, it was IMO more like an oversight from them, or maybe the design was a little too on the risky side regarding this problem...But IMO this is an issue that regardless of the law of physics that you try to use, it is not common in the majority of the cars and maybe they underestimate the safety side, concentrating their efforts in just fuel economy, or God knows. BTW I have been driving around for more than 20 years, as a driver in a company transporting personnel for around 6 (driving an E-350 made by Ford), and after, a year as a taxi driver in NJ/NYC (in a Crown Victoria, another Ford), I do not think that you are insinuating that I may need to learn how to drive this toy, and I do not want to look selfish, but I have driven even tractor trailers, this little truck is nothing trust me on that, and I do know how to drive it, but to me, this is an annoyance (BTW my record is pretty clean as well, considering all those jobs in which driving was the job for more than 8 hours daily)...

Do a search online and read these articles, HID if properly designed and implemented are aceptable, but many of the aftermarket solutions are not so good as many people believe, besides of being really bothersome for the ones in front of you, and expensive, there are other factors to consider, the kind of light they produce are not the best for the night view, according to some trusty sources about the matter, which much prefer a good halogen lamp (specially the new HIR) to them, just read below a few articles about that, and do not follow the hipe blindly... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...advantages.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/li...ight_color.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulbs.html

I may understand the roll back if the incline is big enough, agreed, but one thing is on "a big enough incline" (in which my 2000 Taurus never did, BTW, on any ever!!!) and another is on "any incline", even on a slightly inclined driveway... All we are looking for, the ones who had complained, is to get that fixed from them, or at least improved, that doesn't mean that we could not use the car, or that we do not like the car, I love the Edge, but that is annoying, period...if they can, good for all of us, if not, we will learn how to live with that problem (becasue to me, it is a problem)...period BTW and a quick comparison, I have a friend that has an small Tracker, a 4 cylinder small SUV type car, well this Tracker if you place it in reverse going down a hill, is able to climb the hill backwards just in iddle...not even in drive...

Sorry but it is, I almost hit a car yesterday in a hill. Well manual transmision is designed to be driven differently, drivers that use stick usually get used to drive with both feet, not our case, but even though if you leave the transmission engaged it will not roll neither... Anyway given that you answer my question with a question, I think that I will do the same: Why then other automatic transmissions from hundreds of other cars do not roll back, hundreds of them do not roll back, even from Ford, my 2000 Taurus with 125,000 miles do not roll back, want more, maybe you will use the weight excuse, right? Well I used to drive a E-350 in my job, a huge Ford van, double in size and weight of the Edge, and it never rolled back...It is a design problem, to what extend it will or could be fixed is the real question, the TSB was not posted in vane, and it will not be so long before it will become a recall...you will see...

I did the setup stuff, or the reflashing, in the dealer and this fix absolutelly nothing the roll back is still there, I was told in another dealer that it is normal and that it was a matter of design. My ford Taurus does not do it in the same hills though, so even while it may be a design issue, it should not be there...period it is unsafe, as we are not suppose to brake with the left foot, I do not do it I just keep it a little more acelerated and period... BTW mine is a 2008 SEL FWD model...So they still have the same problem, and there is a TSB for that problem, so it is not our illusion, it is a real problem...

If yours was manufactured after February 2008, you do not need the service, the service is for the first models, I took mine and they did nothing to it, as mine was manufactured in June. If it still rolls, it will do it for life, until they decided to change the design, no setting on the transmission will avoid a 2 tons vehicle from rolling down in incline if no brake is applied, unless any internal mechanical part is redesigned, or the rpms in idle are increased to create the needed torque, all of the above will attempt against the mileage you will get.