Special_K

On 3/28/2022 at 11:33 AM, Cerberus said:

 

Thanks very much, I appreciate the information!

of course!

On 3/26/2022 at 7:33 AM, Cerberus said:

 

Hi Jim, Sorry to revive this old thread but i have a question or twelve about the injector sticking problem.. 

Is this occurring only at WOT or throughout the range and how were you able to discern that was what was going on?

The problem with stick was occurring constantly and was dumping uncontrolled amounts of fuel.

And is there any chance that using fuel system cleaners could lead to this problem, by drying out the internal seals?

To our knowledge and experiences ( about 1,000,000 miles + of all different cars) as long as you use proven and quality fuel system cleaners they actually prolong the life of injectors and can restore performance to a certain extent.  Just avoid snake-oil products.

 

Using Forscan to monitor acceleration per cylinder, see a problem with my 2016 edge's #5 (&6) performance being below average as compared to the rest, confirmed by listening to how it has a definite thrum instead of consistent pull, and I am trying to chase down the problem. 

Depending on mileage, maybe time to replace all of them.

I had not heard of Injector sticking being a problem so this peaks my curiosity, and has me wondering about possible solutions.. like a small amount of Marvel Mystery oil (or some other recommended product) in the fuel to lubricate the injectors? Injector sticking is not an uncommon occurrence in modern boosted applications, however most of the time you will see that the only folks reporting issues are those that are running tunes or anything that is pushing the hardware past stock specified OEM limits.  OEM builds in a certain amount of failure or capacity loss tolerance under normal application use that partial failure will not be noticed and can be accounted for by the computer 

Of course the extreme pressure of the fuel rail makes that potentially a bad idea, but maybe not?

I would only use fuel specified additives with in a fuel system as heavier viscosities can damage a hpfp since it will drive up pressures even more 

Since alcohol content in fuel seems to be an issue with drying seals etc, i'm wondering if going to pure gas (readily available here in TN) might minimize my vehicle's problem in your opinion?

I think it maybe luck of the draw honestly, Ive had a stock set of turbos on a 250K LS take 10psi of boost for anouther 100K with 0 issues, then I've had some on our daily beater crap out at 88K.

 

this link will lead you to a photo directory of forscan graphs that may tell you something I have not seen

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CoYm577uioKvVQ2m8

 

Thank you in advance for any input

Hey @Cerberus, @snmjim asked me to kick in and help answer some of your questions here.  Please see above for my input in red :-).

6 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

@snmjim i might have missed it but did you post your edge for sale on the forum? if not, is there a link elsewhere we can peruse?

We will be listing as soon as we get the verbiage done :-)

On 11/22/2021 at 4:19 PM, cds71 said:

is the 3.0 both port and direct injection?

Just Direct injection 

On 9/28/2021 at 2:57 PM, clegg78 said:

Sweet,  that works.  Every pot hole I hope I blow one of the stock shocks to justify the order of the B6's  

only 480 bucks..... just say it was a unforeseen "repair" cost

21 minutes ago, clegg78 said:

This is great info!  Question I have though is I would rather not drop the ride height of the car, as I do use it often on some pretty interesting dirt roads, and do drive in a lot of snow.   That is the only concern I have with the H&R springs is that they drop the height!  is there an option at stock ride height that still improve the ride?

bilstein shocks and rear sway then

1 hour ago, onyxbfly said:

 

Let me fix that for you...... It will hand like a go-kart!  Seriously though it's one of the best upgrades possible. She will be nimble, agile and feel light on her feet!

Ah yes, you got the Special_K treatment 

On 6/15/2021 at 10:38 AM, C300 said:

After driving an assortment of vehicles we drove a used 2019 ST. Really liked it.  For $3k more bought a new 2020 ST. Was on show room floor. Had a vibration when I  test drove it. 15 miles on it. They said it was flat spots on tires from sitting (right...). After putting some mileage on it vibrations getting worse. More pronounced under part throttle going up slight incline 55-65 mph. Transmission is slipping between 2-3 and in/out of 6th. Also wouldn't stop in parking lot sometimes. Like forgeting to push in clutch pedal and trying to stop w/manual trans. After it spent most time in shop brought to different dealership. They diagnosed and changed the transmission. Quoted $12,000 for new one ! Warranty of course. Still slipping between 2-3. Actually worse! Not sure if this is the correct place to post. But anyone else have issues? 

We bought the ST and from the little time we got to drive it we liked it. That said maybe we did get a lemon?!?! Any info would be appreciated 

I would like to mention here real quick if you got the model with summer tires, flat spots is a real thing and doesnt clear up until tires reach about 85~90f and about 25miles.  If its getting worse along with your other uncommon issues take that crap back and tell them it unacceptable.

On 8/24/2021 at 12:49 PM, clegg78 said:

I am looking at bit long term in the next year or so when the suspension on my Edge Sport starts to die out.    Seems the ST uses largely all the same mounting points and suspension components, but different specs.     I Read on a R&T review that there was a significant change to the rear suspension?  ANd roll rate changes to the sway bars, but after looking at the part numbers on Tasca it seem they share the same part numbers for the sway bars.   The front struts and rear shocks are all different part numbers but seem similar, and then its down to figuring out which springs are the right PN for the ST, since they list a dozen of them it seems. 

If I am going to do Struts/shocks in a year i'd be game to make the car a bit more well sprung like the ST.   Anyone swapped those parts?    I have zero interest in buying a ST, as my well pampered and now tuned Sport is still very nice, but getting some of the vehicle dynamics perks of the ST would be handy  

if you want sporty fun.  do H&R springs on Bilstein b6 shocks with addco rear sway.  will handle like a car! 

1 hour ago, Jackm said:

Hi everyone! I seem to be having a problem with my temperature sensor and I can’t seem to find a solution. It also seems to effect my A/C. has anyone else had this a issue? I have a Ford Edge 2018.   
 

EDIT: it won’t let me upload a picture. My outside temperature is saying it is -40 and my A/C doesn’t seem to be working very well.

A/C has an ambient temperature limit (thinks its cold outside).  replace the ambient temp sensor 

45 minutes ago, bryantgbell said:

 

I actually reached out to them and they weren't interested in the custom tuning for my Edge! 

 

seems about right, the edge is a complicated platform to tune that can render subpar results if you arent 100% familiar 

On 9/25/2021 at 5:39 PM, poontanghooligan said:

Well folks, I did what I said I wouldn't and traded in the ST for a 2021 Explorer Limited 4WD with the 2.3 and 10 speed. After looking at the cost of installing the heat extractor and electric PTU pump and cooler, I was looking at $2K and that's without knowing if I could make the PTU live while towing at the limits.

 

I did a lot of research on the drivetrain of the Explorer. The RWD bias design, transaxle and FDU are in a much better arrangement in terms of heat generation and cooling. The RDU is a little beefier as well and the transmission (10R60) is rated at 442 foot pounds (600 nm), which it way more than the 310 foot pounds the 2.3 puts out. So towing longevity should be improved a lot.

 

Once I get passed the break in mileage, I'll do a towing test with underhood temps and Forscan as a comparison then report back.

BOOOOOO as us engineers would say .... YOU FOGEY.

Nah i kid, cost analysis makes sense for the expected risk.  but i will say this......should have done the ST, its a BEAST

1 hour ago, Cookiemonster117 said:

Palm Beach Dyno. Haven't gone there yet but they mainly do ecoboost. Alot of mustangs, f150, explorers. I believe they did 1 edge so far. I'm waiting for parts and then i have to install them, then going to get it dynoed tuned. They have a single roller, but they have a partner shop next door they use for awd. Let me know if you ever go.

PBD is okay with fusions and edges.  Recommended tuners for these are ZFG, Tuned by James, and Unleashed.

On 7/10/2021 at 6:24 PM, Markham12 said:

Hi again,

 

I have decided to dyno tune my ford edge after a year of problems with misfires and no clear answer with any place I take it in the Chicago area. Nobody around here is comfortable dyno tuning a ford edge so I am looking at two options. Livernois and National Speed in VA. I have talked to both and am on the list for Aug or Sept. My question is which one would you go with if you were going to pick one? Unfortunately remote tuning just didn't cut it for me. I tried ZFG and Unleashed and am done datalogging and replacing plugs every two weeks at $350 a pop with black fouled out plugs. My gut tells me that National Speed is my better option after speaking with them. I told them whatever is needed including replacing the cats or adding downpipes/custom exhaust? I am done with misfires and black plugs. What do you guys recommend? Who is better for installing and getting everything out of an ecoboost?

 

Thanks

ZFG will be hands down one of the best options for the edge with larger than stock turbos.  Datalogging is part of the tuning process and is needed in order to adjust the over 2000tables the car references in daily driving.  if you have fowled plugs its due to fueling issues which after about 5-10 revisions should be dealt with.  

Plugs cost no more than 75~90 bucks with shipping, who is charging you 350.00 to change them?

National speed is our dyno sponsor and is a fantastic place to get tuned even though they have limited knowledge on the ecoboost 14G371 ECM logic.  Its a very complex and not straight forward logic to tune and will usually render low numbers if the user/tuner is not familiar.

On 9/16/2021 at 7:16 PM, Markham12 said:

So many replies I don't know where to begin. ? Anyway I dropped it off at National Speed in Richmond last weekend. It was supposed to be dyno tuned today, but apparently something went wrong. They never called me back today after getting it ready for the dyno. I drove down on the stock tune slowly. They called me today after replacing the plugs before the dyno and said it runs great/ fine on the stock tune after test driving it.  I don't need to tune. lol.  Yes, I drove 900 miles to change the spark plugs. Hopefully the dyno is what it needs to solve all the problems. I am not bringing it home until it runs fine tuned. Good luck to everyone tuning their vehicle.

if changing plugs makes that much a difference most likely the gap and heat range was previously incorrect.

On 9/22/2021 at 9:06 PM, Markham12 said:

Can anybody give me input? My dyno tune went well at national speed. The numbers were respectable 373 whp and 405 tq on 93 tune. Problem is it misfires with the paddle shifters. What is puzzling to me is I gave the vehicle to them with the stock tune and modified comp turbos. They told me on the dyno showed it running rich with the modified comp turbos. Why would this be with bigger turbos on the stock tune? They said it was pegged lower than their gauge could go at 10 Afr. They tuned it and said they leaned  it out to 12 Afr. How can bigger turbos run rich? 

In order to judge these numbers we do need to know a comprehensive list of engine mods and parts added.  these seem low with aftermarket turbos on 93.  you should have seen 450+.  

Larger compressor turbos can and will cause pressure increase and flow increase causing the computer to add more fuel.  This is not an uncommon side affect, and one that can be hard to manage with the fomoco 14G371 logic

this is a loaded section and i am going to try and deal with this whole thing individually 

13 hours ago, poontanghooligan said:

 

Thanks for your input! In my case, data showed the PTU sump temp was fry high. I was able to get some data on the way to the campground yesterday. "AWD disabled" message only triggered once and that was at the top of a long grade (4700 to 7400) passing a slower truck and trailer. Otherwise no issues.

Ambient air temp: 82F

Air inlet temp: 102F to 105F

CAC temp: 145 F to 152F
Boost level: 7-12 PSI (during climb)
PTU disconnect temp: 265F (yikes)
PTU reconnect temp: 255F
Engine coolant temp max: 225F (not during AWD disabled)
Transmission temp max: 220F
Under hood temp near air intake snorkel (just to the left)  max: 204F
Under hood temp near battery max: 198F
Under hood temp near intake idling: 179F
Under hood temp near battery idling: 168F

The PTU just heat soaks and never recovers much until load is reduced. So I'm also looking at an oil pump to circulate the PTU oil through a small oil cooler and temp-activated fan. Also looking to install a 2014 GT500 hood heat extractor. Body shop says they can shape it to match the hood lines so I can place it nearest the front for best low pressure heat extraction. Pushing the Edge limits!

seems like you have positive confirmation as to the problem along with a viable solution. GO FORTH AND PAVE THE WAY!

the addco bar will work on ALL 15+ edges

welcome and enjoy the new to you ride!!!!

12 hours ago, JayBlair77 said:

Okay so now I'm on my second Ford Edge and unlike the last one I'm really planning to do something with the latest one I bought. While searching for info I came across this forum and really enjoyed how much info was on here so I joined. Last Edge was a 2013 AWD Limited. This time around doubled em up. Wife has the 2018 Titanium and I have the 2018 Sport. Goals are to let both these EcoBoosts breathe better and thats about it. Anyways thanks for making this place possible.

If you need help with the sport let me know!  Its super easy to make it fast!

On 9/8/2021 at 4:16 PM, poontanghooligan said:

IIRC, the PTU cooler get its coolant AFTER the coolant has been run through the engine. If this is the case, then running at constant higher boost levels is going to add more heat than normal to the cooling system and that hotter coolant is then going to the PTU cooler before going back to the radiator to be cooled. Even with a lower temp thermostat, the temp at which the coolant is at higher boost levels is going to always be above the t-stat opening temp. A lower temp opening might delay PTU max temp but only for a short time I suspect.

 

I guess it's a matter of priority by Ford engineers as to what gets cooled first. Cooling the PTU first wouldn't add much heat to the overall cooling system before coolant goes through the engine. But sadly it's the opposite.

awd disabled can also be triggered from the following: coupler over heat, ptu overheat, transmission 245F+.  im willing to be the transmission is tripping the sensors before anything else is.  we had the issue towing up long grades.  The edge isnt mean for real towing like that sadly.  but two additional trans coolers and the trans couldn't be happier and havent had the warning since

maybe i dont count..... 100K and 500+ wheel hp later.  still going strong

On 9/10/2021 at 3:44 PM, Xtra said:

That is an amazing amount of power, congratulations, you are way over 600 hp at the crank. In fact, the stock Sport has 315HP at the crank and you have doubled that and then some ..   I noticed that the dyno in the photo is FWD.  Did you disconnect the rear wheels some how?  Without a doubt you have the worlds fastest Edge, and I see a 11 second pass and another world record in your future. 

Yea thats all they had available for right now and we wanted a benchmark just to see where we are before we figure the fuel out, so we disconnected the driveshaft.  Once we figure out the rear coupler we will be hitting up the track for sure!

On 9/14/2021 at 9:57 AM, itsnotdustin said:

This is insane. Do you have any in-depth build lists or video of your setup? I'm curious was the limits of this engine are. Is this a stock internals motor? There's no telling how far you can push an iron block.

 

Edit: I just saw your sig with the 3.0tt swap which I guess is aluminum? I just learned about the 2.7 being a CGI block. Didn't realize a swap was an option. Crazy how much modding you can do to a crossover. 

Thanks man!  most of the engine parts are in the sig, this whole build is done on stock internals and the point of it is to the capabilities of the platform without cracking open the engine.  even though ford says the 3.0 is aluminum it is not.  side by side the 2.7 and 3.0 have the same CGI section of the block and the 3.0 is ever so slightly lighter due to being bored im assuming.  The 3.0 is a straight drop in and only need the oil pump parameters changed since its different from the 2.7.   

1 hour ago, itsnotdustin said:

Educational post: The test fit didn't go as expected. While the backspacing seems to be close but perfectly fine, the wheel might be sticking out of the fender by a small amount. I will do another test fit with the suspension loaded to get an idea of where the fitment will be with the car on the ground. It's hard to tell how it will look with a tire mounted. 

 

Wheel Size - 21x10.5

Offset - +45mm

Backspacing - 7.5"

 

I tried to find other examples of what the wheels will look like and this is the closest I could find which looks good in my opinion.....but I dont want to mount my tires and not like the look considering they arent returnable at that point  - 

 

 

 

 

Damn, looks like a +35 would have been perfect! 

47 minutes ago, Cmat said:

what is the luge pattern on 2015-2018 20"wheel for Ford Edge

5x108

25 minutes ago, bryantgbell said:

Awesome!!! 

 

So New HPFP? If you're unloading your old one let me know! 

 

Dont know yet, XD-i may want to trade.  if not we will let you know!