Edgingage

Hello folks: Thanks Ron and Znow for your inputs. I'm going to use a smart charger as a tender to fully charge it overnight with the ignition on, IF that's ok. Please let me know if not appropriate. Also, should I first turn the ignition on and then connect the smart charger or the other way around, or it doesn't matter which one is on first? I not only don't know much about battery/electricity stuff but I'm also pretty paranoid about leaving a smart charger connected all night long with the ignition on in the attached garage (fire hazard?). I'm also having some gas fumes/smells after fill ups, ...and I just filled up today (I already got advise about the gas smell in another thread; thank you folks...) Good to know that I should use the largest piece of mass (battery terminals) to test it (I didn't know that; thank you). As a matter of fact, I had mentioned to the dealer that the positive cable was not seated properly all the way down the post (it was left high up) and I can't clamp the positive post directly ( I also mentioned to them that the terminals were not cleaned off old corrosion and other deposits or debris, nor any protective sprayed on the new battery terminals). I'm going back tomorrow (today) and they'll look into that. Oh Ford dealer... I've never reset the BMS before... Things that I don't know how they work kind of scares/concerns me... but I'll do so. Thank you all.

Happy Holiday Season folks: 2011 SEL here. Dealer installed a new (6-month old) battery BXT-65-850 on mid month. I measured the CCA just after installation and it was reading 856 CCA (I was pleased). Ten days later I measured it again and it was reading 826 CCA (I wasn't so pleased...). My question to you folks: is that a normal, expected performance in a brand newly installed battery? Or it is a sign or indication of something else being or going bad? Should I claim something to the dealer? My driving is considered SOC (special operating conditions): short commutes, just so you know. Thanks in advance for your time, comments and suggestions, always very appreciated.

Kid trained! He beat the time lol. Now, he asked me a curious question that I would like to pass it on to you: if I have the car key, it's not supposed that I also have the keyfob in my possession? (I'm taking the car key out of the keyfob). What is the alarm for then, what's the alarm's purpose if I'm opening the car door with the car key?

Yap, I never thought about that situation (keyfob battery dead); and I knew the only way to start the push button car is with the keyfob in the slot inside the arm rest. But I didn't know I have only 12 secs to do so before the alarm goes off lol. Time to train him to beat the time! lol. Thank you both.

Hi folks, 2011 Edge SEL here: My kid had a small issue the other day when driving my car with the other ("his") key, like once inside the car a warning message popped up reading "key not detected" (or something along those lines). He was able to fully operate the car without any problems anyway, but it made me realize it's time to "teach" him a few options he would have with this car thanks to the technology Ford incorporated on it. Anyway, before showing him, I wanted to try myself, just to make sure I was not going to "look bad" if something doesn't work at the time I was showing him. One thing I wanted to mimic is the case scenario if the key fob battery dies (and he doesn't know or doesn't remember the keypad code, and I am away from my phone when he calls to ask me, ...the worst possible case scenario where everything that can go wrong goes wrong...) You got the idea. So, I took the hard/cut key out of the key fob and placed the key fob far away, out of range, to neutralize the intelligent access (no key close by), then I inserted and turned the hard key in the door key slot: the driver door unlocked (great!), but immediately I can hear like a timer beeping from inside the car still with the door close (like in all movies when a car bomb is about to explode lol) And sure enough, when I opened the door the ...alarm went off! ...and I couldn't, didn't know how to silence it. So, I grabbed the key fob, close by Ah!, I forgot to mention: it's a push button start (no key slot to start the car). So, if that happens in real life (battery dead dead in the key fob), how do you guys solve that issue. Of course, the push button won't work because the key fob battery is dead, correct? (I didn't try that; the alarm drove me crazy!, I couldn't think lol). I know once inside the car you can place the key fob inside the arm rest specific location and then press the push button to start the car, but those "few" seconds feel like a century when the alarm is honking non stop!!! lol Honestly, I was VERY surprised when the alarm went off; I was NOT expecting that to happen. TG I was just "rehearsing" before showing my kid ...how it works. lol Any lightening solution? Or something is not working properly in my car? ...Or I did something not quite right that triggered the alarm?.. BTW: I don't have that issue (alarm going off) when I open the door after unlocking it with the keypad code... (probably of course...) Thanks in advance, folks.

Hello WWWPerfA (and all): Thank you once again for your time, directions and advise. Now I know where to look/check closely next time I fuel up. Million thanks! The smell comes for sure from around the rear part of the vehicle. It seems to me like it smells stronger from around the fuel cap side. I'm going to try to further narrow down the location for the smell. I haven't gotten yet any check engine pop up or any other warning in my dash board/cluster panel or in the Information section. I haven't noticed either a vacuum noise from the fuel cap (I'm going to pay close attention next time) or have had a shut off gun when fueling in. As such, I'm going to leave the solenoid valve replacement down in my check list, as well as the filler neck, but I'm going to check first on canister and vent both hoses. If I don't find them plugged, I'm going to replace the solenoid valve. I'm going to eventually replace the EPV in the engine compartment firewall as well; I think I can do those now that I know what they are and where they are lol (thank YOU!). From the video, it looks to me like the canister/solenoid valve are located on the same side of the fuel cap. Please correct me or confirm if you can. I don't know how old that video is, but that car looks awesome at the bottom! Mine is all rusty, Canadian winter roads are car killers! I just had to replace the rocket panels because they didn't pass the annual safety inspection (MVI). Maybe this could be another "hint" to narrow down where/what the problem may be... My goodness, how many "little" things to keep a car running... Kudos to car engineers, ...well, actually, kudos to people like you! Thank YOU!

WWWPerfA (and all) something I forgot or would like to clarify: the smell lasts only for about a couple of days right after filling up. By the day 3rd or 4th at the most there is not any perceptible smell at all. Just in case this info helps to pinpoint or narrow down what I should check first before I start to disassemble/replace things that I have no experience doing. Thanks a lot again before hand for your time and advise.

Thanks a lot WWWPerfA, I'll watch the video tonight when I get off work. Thanks a lot for your guidance and opinions.

Thanks WWWPerfA. I'll look it up on the net to try to know/find what/where those parts are located and to learn how to check them. If you have a reference (diagram/drawing/video) that I can look at it'll be greatly helpful for me. Thanks a lot.

Oh... Thanks Omar, not worthy the extra work/parts for me. Thanks a lot for your info.

Can I put a rain-sensor switch/lever if my car originally didn't have one, will it work when raining? I don't have a problem (...probably looking for one lol).

Hello folks: I need to pick your brains and/or experience with the following, please: Lately, I'd say after the last 3-4 fill-ups, I feel very strong smell of gasoline outside the car; nothing inside, no gas smell inside with the windows up and the climate on or off. The second last fill-up I even took the car out of the garage thinking of a hazard for explosion (I have the heating furnace room right underneath the garage floor). Of course after it happened first time I've been extremely careful when I fill up, making sure there is none spill whatsoever. The thing is that I can't see a single drop of gasoline running down anywhere visible, and no gas spot on the garage floor either. I'm very puzzled, ...and very worried (I'm a smoker, unfortunately; ...but not in the garage anymore). Ah, the strong smell is not only inside the garage, I can feel the same strong smell outside if I stand close to the car, around the rear or the car (not so much smell around the front). I opened the lid of the capless fuel entry (or whatever is called; I can't remember the proper name now but you know what I mean), and I can't feel enough gas smell coming directly from there, if any. Has anyone smelled something similar before? Any hints of a potential problem somewhere? Where should I look, check for signs of trouble? It's not in my mind, it's real, it's now happening repeatedly (at every fill up) but never ever before, outside or inside the car. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Aha! Finally somebody else asks the question I've been hesitant to ask for a long time now. I own the exact same type of vehicle, only with almost four times your mileage. I don't have the ownre's manual in front of me right now, but if I remember correctly it reads 5.2 L capacity with every oil & filter change (sorry for the international units, that's what they use for Canada). So, I always buy a 4.73 L jug and a 960 mL (0.96 L) bottle. I dump the whole jug plus half the bottle (0.48 L). That makes a total of 5.21 L, exactly what the book reads. However, when I measure it, the oil level is at the bottom line mark on the he stick. Then I add the remaining of the bottle (another 0.48 L) for a total of 5.69 L, and STILL doesn't reach the top line mark on the stick (the way I like to leave it at every change). I still have to add another 300 and some mL to get the oil level reaching the top line mark on the stick. I know the containers are not accurate to measure. This last change I used a 1000 mL graduated cylinder to measure the exact oil I added after emptying the 4.73 L jug. And I also know that once in a while a container may not contain what it reads, but I've owned this car for over three years now and it's been exactly the same since first oil change. The good thing is that, by the time of the next oil change (six months later), the oil level is at the bottom line mark of the stick (no top up needed between changes ) The questions I wanted to ask for a long time were: how do we know for sure that the oil stick is correctly calibrated? Could it be defective, a factory mistake? Am I /are we (now;) adding to much oil to the engine thus risking to damage the catalytic converter? Thank you Ronald for taking the lead on this worrisome (to me) subject.

Thank you prokidon. It looks like a very nice job done. Pictures only don't do it for me as I'm not really knowledgeable about electric stuff. But I'll see if I can try to translate it and understand. At least it's very good to know that it IS possible.

Thank YOU Southside!!! I was just thinking about that tool but, again, wasn't sure if it was a twist or a pull. That vid is exactly what I was looking for! Million thanks for your quick and great help!

What type of bulbs do you have in headlights? Signature lights also look brighter than stock. Did you do any mods to those lights too, or are just photo effects?

Wondering: is it possible to installed heated steering wheel to a 2011 Edge SEL? I ended up putting a wheel cover over the wheel leather because that double layer makes it easier to handle the wheel on super cold days... Please let me know if someone has done or possible. Thanks in advance.

Hi folks: Probably an "s" question; I always have many of those... jjj. Anyways, I'm planning to replace the backup/reverse light bulbs in my 2011 Edge SEL. All the bulb sockets in the taillight housing are REALLY easy to disconnect EXCEPT the backup/reverse light socket (at least for me). I've read the book, search the net and found several YTVs all about mostly the brake lights, and some about the reverse lights but on the 2007-10 Edge, which is quite different than the 2011-14 Edge (a lot easier, plenty of space in the 07-10 Edge). My main difficulty is how to get a grip of the socket (there's no really space to grab it with my fingers) and I'm afraid that using pliers my break the socket as I don't know either if the reverse light socket is also a counterclockwise turn (as the other sockets in the taillight housing) or just a straight pull socket. I would appreciate any hints and/or suggestions, or directions to some videos showing how. Thanks in advance.

I didn't know where it was when I bought my Edge three years ago. Since then I've already changed it three times by the clock, thanks to the advise from this great forum! ?

Your're perfectly right! Lots of coordination and synchronization to loose and pull at the same time lol. All good; all safely done now. Thanks a lot!

Got it! Holy cow!! I think the driver's side bulb (the one I was tackling first) was somehow defective. The notch sliding into the clips was a little too high not slowing the clips to come over high enough for the notch to slide out under the clips; I had to grease it out. The passenger side was easier, maybe just because ...I learned how lol Sorry for my question but thank you anyways.

Got it! Holy cow!! I think the driver's side bulb (the one I was tackling first) was somehow defective. The notch sliding into the clips was a little too high not slowing the clips to come over high enough for the notch to slide out under the clips; I had to grease it out. The passenger side was easier, maybe just because ...I learned how lol Sorry for my question but thank you anyways.

Mine (2011) doesn't do that. Where can I enable/disable the double honk for that matter (for leaving the car running without the fob inside)? I've left the car running to pick up mail from the community mailbox and the car makes no honk. It chimes and pops up a warning message in the cluster, but I see that only after I return to the car (not really useful). Once, my son had the car for the day after he dropped me off at work. Then he went to pick me up. While waiting for me in the parking lot he moved to the passenger's seat. I got in the driver's seat and drove him to his friend's. I can't remember why but I realized I didn't have the fob until half way home. I called him on the way to see if he had left the fob somewhere in the car but he had it in his pocket. It's true it'll warn you about the 20 sec left if you shut it off without the fob. I saw that when I got home and shut if off. That situation is actually something that bothers and worries me: Ford should have/make/add a safety feature to shut off the engine as soon as somebody/anybody (a thief?) tries to move the shift off park (hijack the car?) without the fob inside. And I also agree it won't start (or move if remotely started) without the fob inside at some point.

Hi folks: I posted something similar in the lights forum (sorry mods) but I haven't gotten a reply yet. I'd have the time this weekend to tackle this and I'll greatly appreciate a little bit of your help. I'm lefthander for mechanics (know between not much and nothing). I need to disconnect the headlight bulb from the socket and I can't get if out. I'm afraid to break the socket... I'd appreciate it if you could please tell me if a special tool is needed or some sort of "tricky" (skilled) manipulation. I watched a couple of YT videos including MacT's but that part is not really clear in his video. I tried to pry it with a small flat screwdriver but I was afraid of keeping applying much force and break the socket click... Please see picture attached and please let me know how I can safely get that bulb out of that grey socket without breaking the socket clips. Thanks in advance.

Akirby, thank you VERY MUCH for your explanation. I have some further questions, if you wouldn't mind, please, and maybe also to pick your brain with something that has been bugging me for a very long time, please: I was going to upload a picture of my compressor but I found one in the internet much better, specially for what I want to ask and talk about. Please see attached picture. The wheel (poly?) where the belt goes around is normally constantly running (that's the way it's supposed, I know) and I have not (visible) problem with that (other than I couldn't find an opening underneath the car to spray some belt dressing). Now, the thing that it's just at front of that wheel, and I think it gets inside that wheel, is what turns on and off. Reading from the picture I guess/assume that's the clutch, correct? (please correct me as I'm illiterate about mechanics). That thing that goes on and off (clutch?) is where I think I have a problem: when it's cycling it gets harder to turn/run and longer to run/complete the cycle. I first noticed it when being idle I saw the rpm gauge in the cluster panel going down to almost 0.5 x 1000 rpm, which it's not bad EXCEPT that I actually noticed/felt it because the car was making some trembles as if it's going to suddenly stop (it has never stopped btw). A couple of times I've connected one of those BA7 battery testers and measured the current (battery voltage) while the compressor was on (I actually made a video the second time I measured it but I don't think I can posted here; please let me know if I can send it to you, or anyone else interested, somehow). Anyway, this second time, when I started measuring the voltage, the BA7 was oscillating picking up to 14.29 volts when the clutch (?) was not running and picking down to 12.09 after the clutch was engaged cycling on. I couldn't capture those exact pick readings but you can get the idea. Also, I can see the BA7 displaying the green/good battery when the clutch was not on and the changing to yellow/weak battery when the clutch was engaged in the cycle. I'm going to try to post pictures of that (not sure how many pictures I can upload in a single post). Anyway, if you (or anyone else) feel(s) like giving your opinion, please do so, I'll greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.