Edgingage

WWWPerfA (and all) something I forgot or would like to clarify: the smell lasts only for about a couple of days right after filling up. By the day 3rd or 4th at the most there is not any perceptible smell at all. Just in case this info helps to pinpoint or narrow down what I should check first before I start to disassemble/replace things that I have no experience doing. Thanks a lot again before hand for your time and advise.

Thanks a lot WWWPerfA, I'll watch the video tonight when I get off work. Thanks a lot for your guidance and opinions.

Thanks WWWPerfA. I'll look it up on the net to try to know/find what/where those parts are located and to learn how to check them. If you have a reference (diagram/drawing/video) that I can look at it'll be greatly helpful for me. Thanks a lot.

Oh... Thanks Omar, not worthy the extra work/parts for me. Thanks a lot for your info.

Can I put a rain-sensor switch/lever if my car originally didn't have one, will it work when raining? I don't have a problem (...probably looking for one lol).

Hello folks: I need to pick your brains and/or experience with the following, please: Lately, I'd say after the last 3-4 fill-ups, I feel very strong smell of gasoline outside the car; nothing inside, no gas smell inside with the windows up and the climate on or off. The second last fill-up I even took the car out of the garage thinking of a hazard for explosion (I have the heating furnace room right underneath the garage floor). Of course after it happened first time I've been extremely careful when I fill up, making sure there is none spill whatsoever. The thing is that I can't see a single drop of gasoline running down anywhere visible, and no gas spot on the garage floor either. I'm very puzzled, ...and very worried (I'm a smoker, unfortunately; ...but not in the garage anymore). Ah, the strong smell is not only inside the garage, I can feel the same strong smell outside if I stand close to the car, around the rear or the car (not so much smell around the front). I opened the lid of the capless fuel entry (or whatever is called; I can't remember the proper name now but you know what I mean), and I can't feel enough gas smell coming directly from there, if any. Has anyone smelled something similar before? Any hints of a potential problem somewhere? Where should I look, check for signs of trouble? It's not in my mind, it's real, it's now happening repeatedly (at every fill up) but never ever before, outside or inside the car. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Aha! Finally somebody else asks the question I've been hesitant to ask for a long time now. I own the exact same type of vehicle, only with almost four times your mileage. I don't have the ownre's manual in front of me right now, but if I remember correctly it reads 5.2 L capacity with every oil & filter change (sorry for the international units, that's what they use for Canada). So, I always buy a 4.73 L jug and a 960 mL (0.96 L) bottle. I dump the whole jug plus half the bottle (0.48 L). That makes a total of 5.21 L, exactly what the book reads. However, when I measure it, the oil level is at the bottom line mark on the he stick. Then I add the remaining of the bottle (another 0.48 L) for a total of 5.69 L, and STILL doesn't reach the top line mark on the stick (the way I like to leave it at every change). I still have to add another 300 and some mL to get the oil level reaching the top line mark on the stick. I know the containers are not accurate to measure. This last change I used a 1000 mL graduated cylinder to measure the exact oil I added after emptying the 4.73 L jug. And I also know that once in a while a container may not contain what it reads, but I've owned this car for over three years now and it's been exactly the same since first oil change. The good thing is that, by the time of the next oil change (six months later), the oil level is at the bottom line mark of the stick (no top up needed between changes ) The questions I wanted to ask for a long time were: how do we know for sure that the oil stick is correctly calibrated? Could it be defective, a factory mistake? Am I /are we (now;) adding to much oil to the engine thus risking to damage the catalytic converter? Thank you Ronald for taking the lead on this worrisome (to me) subject.

Thank you prokidon. It looks like a very nice job done. Pictures only don't do it for me as I'm not really knowledgeable about electric stuff. But I'll see if I can try to translate it and understand. At least it's very good to know that it IS possible.

Thank YOU Southside!!! I was just thinking about that tool but, again, wasn't sure if it was a twist or a pull. That vid is exactly what I was looking for! Million thanks for your quick and great help!

What type of bulbs do you have in headlights? Signature lights also look brighter than stock. Did you do any mods to those lights too, or are just photo effects?

Wondering: is it possible to installed heated steering wheel to a 2011 Edge SEL? I ended up putting a wheel cover over the wheel leather because that double layer makes it easier to handle the wheel on super cold days... Please let me know if someone has done or possible. Thanks in advance.

Hi folks: Probably an "s" question; I always have many of those... jjj. Anyways, I'm planning to replace the backup/reverse light bulbs in my 2011 Edge SEL. All the bulb sockets in the taillight housing are REALLY easy to disconnect EXCEPT the backup/reverse light socket (at least for me). I've read the book, search the net and found several YTVs all about mostly the brake lights, and some about the reverse lights but on the 2007-10 Edge, which is quite different than the 2011-14 Edge (a lot easier, plenty of space in the 07-10 Edge). My main difficulty is how to get a grip of the socket (there's no really space to grab it with my fingers) and I'm afraid that using pliers my break the socket as I don't know either if the reverse light socket is also a counterclockwise turn (as the other sockets in the taillight housing) or just a straight pull socket. I would appreciate any hints and/or suggestions, or directions to some videos showing how. Thanks in advance.

I didn't know where it was when I bought my Edge three years ago. Since then I've already changed it three times by the clock, thanks to the advise from this great forum! ?

Your're perfectly right! Lots of coordination and synchronization to loose and pull at the same time lol. All good; all safely done now. Thanks a lot!

Got it! Holy cow!! I think the driver's side bulb (the one I was tackling first) was somehow defective. The notch sliding into the clips was a little too high not slowing the clips to come over high enough for the notch to slide out under the clips; I had to grease it out. The passenger side was easier, maybe just because ...I learned how lol Sorry for my question but thank you anyways.

Got it! Holy cow!! I think the driver's side bulb (the one I was tackling first) was somehow defective. The notch sliding into the clips was a little too high not slowing the clips to come over high enough for the notch to slide out under the clips; I had to grease it out. The passenger side was easier, maybe just because ...I learned how lol Sorry for my question but thank you anyways.

Mine (2011) doesn't do that. Where can I enable/disable the double honk for that matter (for leaving the car running without the fob inside)? I've left the car running to pick up mail from the community mailbox and the car makes no honk. It chimes and pops up a warning message in the cluster, but I see that only after I return to the car (not really useful). Once, my son had the car for the day after he dropped me off at work. Then he went to pick me up. While waiting for me in the parking lot he moved to the passenger's seat. I got in the driver's seat and drove him to his friend's. I can't remember why but I realized I didn't have the fob until half way home. I called him on the way to see if he had left the fob somewhere in the car but he had it in his pocket. It's true it'll warn you about the 20 sec left if you shut it off without the fob. I saw that when I got home and shut if off. That situation is actually something that bothers and worries me: Ford should have/make/add a safety feature to shut off the engine as soon as somebody/anybody (a thief?) tries to move the shift off park (hijack the car?) without the fob inside. And I also agree it won't start (or move if remotely started) without the fob inside at some point.

Hi folks: I posted something similar in the lights forum (sorry mods) but I haven't gotten a reply yet. I'd have the time this weekend to tackle this and I'll greatly appreciate a little bit of your help. I'm lefthander for mechanics (know between not much and nothing). I need to disconnect the headlight bulb from the socket and I can't get if out. I'm afraid to break the socket... I'd appreciate it if you could please tell me if a special tool is needed or some sort of "tricky" (skilled) manipulation. I watched a couple of YT videos including MacT's but that part is not really clear in his video. I tried to pry it with a small flat screwdriver but I was afraid of keeping applying much force and break the socket click... Please see picture attached and please let me know how I can safely get that bulb out of that grey socket without breaking the socket clips. Thanks in advance.

Akirby, thank you VERY MUCH for your explanation. I have some further questions, if you wouldn't mind, please, and maybe also to pick your brain with something that has been bugging me for a very long time, please: I was going to upload a picture of my compressor but I found one in the internet much better, specially for what I want to ask and talk about. Please see attached picture. The wheel (poly?) where the belt goes around is normally constantly running (that's the way it's supposed, I know) and I have not (visible) problem with that (other than I couldn't find an opening underneath the car to spray some belt dressing). Now, the thing that it's just at front of that wheel, and I think it gets inside that wheel, is what turns on and off. Reading from the picture I guess/assume that's the clutch, correct? (please correct me as I'm illiterate about mechanics). That thing that goes on and off (clutch?) is where I think I have a problem: when it's cycling it gets harder to turn/run and longer to run/complete the cycle. I first noticed it when being idle I saw the rpm gauge in the cluster panel going down to almost 0.5 x 1000 rpm, which it's not bad EXCEPT that I actually noticed/felt it because the car was making some trembles as if it's going to suddenly stop (it has never stopped btw). A couple of times I've connected one of those BA7 battery testers and measured the current (battery voltage) while the compressor was on (I actually made a video the second time I measured it but I don't think I can posted here; please let me know if I can send it to you, or anyone else interested, somehow). Anyway, this second time, when I started measuring the voltage, the BA7 was oscillating picking up to 14.29 volts when the clutch (?) was not running and picking down to 12.09 after the clutch was engaged cycling on. I couldn't capture those exact pick readings but you can get the idea. Also, I can see the BA7 displaying the green/good battery when the clutch was not on and the changing to yellow/weak battery when the clutch was engaged in the cycle. I'm going to try to post pictures of that (not sure how many pictures I can upload in a single post). Anyway, if you (or anyone else) feel(s) like giving your opinion, please do so, I'll greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

No, I haven't asked them to check the halfshaft yet... There are a few things (repairs) just done and other needed to be done in my vehicle, ...and I'm just trying to set priorities (money wise ) I somehow interpreted that that "click" sound from park/reverse/go was not an emergency/safety issue. I bumped that down and then I bumped up the coolant replacement. I'm reading other posts about WP going down (3.5K engine replacements) and ...I'm getting scared lol. Thanks again. Thank you all.

In my vehicle the compressor comes on automatically, even in winter time. I don't know why but it does. I actually wanted to have the option to turn it on or off when I want (because of other issue related to battery drainage), but I can't fully control when the compressor goes on or off. One (stupid) question: are the compressor and condenser the same thing? Is there a condenser in these vehicles? I'll ask the dealer to check on the belt/tensioner and replace if necessary (I don't know at how many mileage should be replaced...). I'll also ask them to check refrigerant/PAG oil levels. Some times I'm afraid to ask them to "touch" what seems to be working so far... I can't see/notice any leaks around or surround. Thanks a lot for your advice, always greatly appreciated.

Sledwrecker, did you make any mod to the headlight caps to release/dissipate the higher generated heat from the LED bulbs? Any issues heating up, melting the headlight enclosure? Please report back at your leisure. Thanks in advance.

Hi folks: This's probably a 6-grader question, ...but that's my mechanical level, if such lol What's the proper, easier, best way to disconnect the HIR2/9012 bulb from the grey plastic socket without breaking the clips? Please see picture attached. I was trying to pry it with a small flat screwdriver but I ended up having to put it back in because I couldn't disconnect it from the socket for fear to break the clips. I watched a MacT YT video but the part of the video where he actually got it loose is not clearly shown. As a secondary, less important, just out of curiosity question: what's the blue retainer for, what does it do, does it have to be back on? As usual, thank you all in advance for your clear instructions.

Yes WWWPerfA, I attached the alignment report in my post on Sep 14 (above). You then commented it was spot on (thank you). I'm going to keep paying attention to that click noise when I press the brake pedal, I can hear the click coming out of the console under the shift handle... Ah, and the clicking noise originating this post is also still there, not so loud and not so often, but I still can hear it sometimes when accelerating from stop to forward, or from stop to reverse, as described in the first post above. Thank you all.

Thank you WWWPerfA!, I'll look for a red clip (I didn't know about that one). I did try to find and depress and pull a "tab" (?), ...but maybe there is no tab (that's why) lol. Thanks again!