Edgingage

Enigma, I got it now! I really and greatly appreciate all your time sharing your knowledge and "spelling" it all out for me. Thanks a lot! Best regards!

Enigma, thank you VERY MUCH for you reply and explanation. You answered my main question; thanks again. If you wouldn't mind to please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge, could you please explain, spell for me what the above really mean?: "...off for 30%." I don't think they're ever off with the engine running... And to be honest, I don't even know/understand what "duty cycle" is (engine, alternator, ?). But again, you DID answer my main question (full 12.6V all the time) and I DO appreciate it. It's that "70% duty cycle" (of what?) plus "off 30%" (lights, which lights?) what leaves me in limbo; I'm puzzled (my lack of knowledge, I know). I'm sorry. But I now know what I wanted to know initially; thanks again.

Enigma, thank you very much for your reply. That's why I think I also read but I wasn't sure if that's regarding luminosity. So then I could interpret it as that the signature "fog" lights will operate dimmed at 12V x 70% = at 8.4V? Is my interpretation correct? Please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Znow, thanks for your reply, I appreciate it. I realized my OP above was not clear; I just corrected the wording in my OP above. My question (as stated in the tittle) is regarding the power (voltage) getting to the vertical signature "fog" lights when the car is running during daytime as these lights function also as DRL then, but at reduced luminosity. Do you (or anyone else) know what voltage is powering the vertical signature "fog" lights when they're dimmed (while the car is running)? Luminosity is reduced; my understanding is that that's because the voltage getting to them is reduced. My question, what I'd like to know is: What's the voltage getting to the "fog" lights when the voltage is lowered during DRL and therefore their ("fog" lights) luminosity is diminished as a result of a lower voltage getting to them? Thanks in advance.

Please delete post; wrong thread, sorry.

Did you try in the 2015 forum? https://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/79-2015-edge-mkx/ Just checking...

Hi folks, 2011 SEL here: We all know that, during daytime, with lights knob selected to automatic, the headlights AND signature/vertical/"fog" lights dim while driving. I've heard/read some comments stating the signature "fog" lights go to 50% and other comments stating they go to 70%, but it's not always clear to me if they're referring to luminosity or actual voltage. Does anyone know what's the actual voltage these lights dim at? In other words, and specifically, I would like to know what's the minimum operating voltage the signature/vertical/"fog" lights get when operating in dimmed mode. Your info is very welcome and greatly appreciated in advance.

I took a shot at this car (sorry for my quick crappy picture). Vent visors WITH chrome accent! I had never seen them before. Had anybody?

DFreeman (and all), I'm VERY interested in your above statement regarding the so-called DRLs (a.k.a. signature lights, "fog" lights, vertical lights, and the like). You say your kit LEDs's "intensity increases when the headlights are on;" I have read several threads/posts here and my understanding is the other way around: DRLs are full intensity during daytime (when headlights are automatically off), but once the dusk hits and the headlights automatically turn on the DRL bars intensity decreases about 30%. From what I've read, Ford made that function intentionally to avoid those vertical DRL bars blinding the incoming traffic. Now, my question, where I need your (and maybe others's) help is because I'm buying a set of true fog lights (low lumen, wide horizontal angle, narrow vertical angle) with the intention to replace those vertical OEM DRLs. Basically, I want to unplug the vertical DRLs and use that powered connector to power the true fog light horizontal bars I'll be installing. But, if they will dim when the headlights are on, then the fog light purpose is defeated. That's why I'll appreciate it if you (and/or anybody else) could please explain how to connect/wire the vertical DRLs to increase (or maintain) luminosity when the headlights are on. I need to be able to achieve the same result on my fog light bars. Thank you all in advance.

I found them on eBay, ...ready to ship Thank you all.

Yes, Prairieedge, please post. I'm particularly interested in the interior lights as there are three-four different measurements (lengths). Thanks in advance.

Uff... I already had a set of Diode Dynamic ones in the cart when I found out they do NOT ship to Canada!!! Uff... Disappointed .

Enigma, oh boy lol, that one looks even closer to what I want... Just two-three things I need to find/figure out about the Diode Dynamics ones (they don't have posted all dimensions, picture of the back side, neither illustration/instructions of the mounting). I'll browse around both brands. Thank you both for your infos!

Ho ho, Perblue, thank you! Very close to what I was thinking about. I already browsed several other of their products and wow, that looks like fun to decide... The only thing with those Stackerz (in my mind) is the depth: I had been looking at some with 2.4" depth; now I have to reconfigure ...my head around lol. But they also have some flush mounted ones... A few to look, think and choose around. Thanks a lot!

Hi folks: I like "old" fashion lol. I've spent hours and days intermittently searching the net for actually real amber color LED fog light bars or pods, preferably 5" long max. What I've found is that even the ad tittle calls them amber in reality they are yellow, yellowish, even greenish led light bars, not only when you look at the customer's pictures but also thus reported by some customers themselves. I also know there is an important difference between fog lights and flood lights: the beam pattern. But I'm not going to get too picky... If any of you could please point me in the right direction for real amber color led light bars or pods, I'll greatly appreciated. Real dark yellow or orange color would do the trick as well; the closer to the side/parking markers color the better. Thanks in advance.

Onedge, I think those are the switchback type (built-in turn signal) and I think they have some kind of different wiring... I'm looking for some kind of simple stock straight replacement but much brighter and plug & play type, without different wiring, just basically a brighter replacement. Just checking with you folks IF someone has seen something like that in the market... Thanks anyways, appreciated.

Hi folks: For a 2011 SEL: I searched the forum for DRL and came back empty (weird). I'm pretty sure this subject may have been almost exhausted... I'm wondering if anyone knows of brighter, much brighter, much much brighter LED lights straight replacement (plug and play) for the "signature" bumper lights? I know there're some switch backs around but I'm just looking for brighter DRL LED lights there, without extra wiring complications, again, just plug and play. Please let me know if anyone knows. Thanks in advance.

Found it! Thanks.

Enigma, according to EMassive website those assemblies are Certified DOT SAE Compliant. See picture attached. Samxander, did you get them? Please post your experience with them if so. Znow, could you please tell me where to find owner's feedback on those light assemblies? I don't see any feedback in OEMassive website. I'm interested on them, but I need to know how/if they really work well. For instance, I wonder if the auto-dimming function is lost or still captured as I don't see the photocells in that casing. Bulb types seem to be different from originals but which types this assembly takes? Anyway, lots of interest from my part, but lots of questions to get answers first. 100% Legal Reflector: Highly Reflective Amber Reflectors provide a safety feature giving the vehicle a OEM style presence and are compliant with DOT and SAE standards.

Problem fixed quick and easy (after watching the video ). Latch was originally set at its lowest point, there's about 1" vertical range, I found a sweet spot in between and then fine adjusted it with the rubber bumpers. Nice to be able to gently push the hood down now (no more slamming!) and still remains nicely tighty. Thank you all.

I found this video (link below), it's the reverse problem (hood a little too loose) but it's very similar to what I want to do. I'm going to give it shot. Thank you all.

Hi Enigma: Latch is fully lubricated, I do it twice a year. If I adjust the bumpers any lower then the hood gets misaligned with the edges, it goes too low... I guess this could be considered a genuine factory defect then, I'd say... It's too bad, too late. Thanks Enigma. Edit: I just screwed the side rubber bumpers all the way in as far as they can go and still I can't close the hood by pushing it down. There're two rubber bumpers at front but they're not adjustable. Do you (or anyone else) know what bad thing can happen if I loosen those two bolts holding the latch? Please let me know your guess. Thanks again.

Hello folks: I need your advise on this issue: hood not closing shut unless letting it go from higher up. First I should mention it's not a new issue, it was happening since I bought my car (used). But I now noticed it's been slowly and increasingly bugging me, and I would like to fix it, IF possible. Here's the thing: I cannot close the hood shut by letting it lay down and then push it down, it will not close, no matter how much force to put on top, it won't close (period). So, the only way to close it shut is lifting it up (I'd say to about 2 feet) and then suddenly let it go so that the speed by the gravity weight will make enough force to shut it down. I have adjusted the rubber bumpers; that doesn't make any difference. Please see attached picture as a reference for what I want to ask if it's possible to do: I think I'll have to adjust the actual latching mechanism, but if so I'll really need your help or advise. Taking a look at it, I see three springs there. I assume that I least one of them (if not all) is under high tension. I also see a couple of bolts back there and those are what I hope are adjustable, but I'm not sure as I can't see from behind (it's closed) and I'm not sure if there are vertical openings behind those bolts (or just circular openings). IF there are vertical openings behind the latch I think I should be able to raise the latch. Right now, the (first) safety latch engages properly, no issues there, but the second latch below doesn't engage unless with significant gravity force. If I'm able to raise the latch mechanism high enough I hope that the second latch will then engage with the simple gentle push of the hood down. Am I correct? Please let me know if I could safely loose the latch mechanism to raise it up. Any advise on the side is greatly appreciated in advance as I don't want to mess around with something I don't really know how it works. Thank you all.

Enigma, just for all to be on the same page: the new coolant "official" color is not green but yellow, even thought it does look green, and even though the designated letter at the end is "G", I know . Also, my dealer refused to do a chemical flush on mine, even after they admitted refilling the system with the wrong VC-5 coolant in. As I reported before, they told me not to do a real flush "...because some old engines have had some hick ups after that..." I also asked them what "treatment" then they will do/did and they also refused to tell me... All I got was the invoice for the use of three gallons of factory-diluted VC-DL13-G free of charge, that's it. Now, even though this appears to be a "local" issue, I just want to share my "investigation" with you all, and I encourage you to share your opinions or conclusions, whatever you think it happened, feel free to comment, please. To help you interpret the below results correctly: the blueish optical field represents water content; the whitish optical field represents non-water content (coolant as ethylene glycol in these cases); the horizontal line dividing the two optical fields is the actual reading (result): 1.- Picture # 1 shows the water content of a sample of just pure water (pun intended). This sample is important for checking the instrument calibration before you take any further samples. It must read 0 (0%). The first number is the sample freezing point in degrees Celsius. The second number (between brackets) is the percentage of coolant (ethylene glycol %) in the sample. 2.- Picture # 2 shows the water content and percentage of the wrong VC-5 coolant "mixture" the dealer put in the system. I'd really like you all to pay close attention and analyze this picture: I took this sample just before I drove the car back to the dealer (yap, like forensic science, my favorite TV genre ). Please keep in mind that when the dealer put the wrong VC-5 coolant in I got invoiced for only one (1) gallon of concentrated VC-5 (plus labor and taxes). The dealer told me they diluted it with tap water 50/50 and the invoice also shows they checked the mixture good for up to -40 degrees (Celsius). 3.- Picture # 3 shows the water content and percentage of the 50/50 factory-diluted VC-DL13-G coolant. I took this sample right after they replaced the wrong coolant and I drove the car back home. 4.- Picture # 4 shows the water content and percentage of the concentrated VC-13-G. I went back to the dealer a few days after and bought a gallon of concentrated VC-13-G, just to complete my "investigation" I'll never forget the phrase the service person told me to make me aware that the new coolant color is similar to the wrong coolant color: "... because I know you're going to look under the hood..." Consumers BE AWARE: please look under the hood Thank you. Picture # 1 - pure water Picture # 2 - wrong VC-5 coolant dealer-diluted w/ tap water 50/50 (?): Picture # 3 - correct VC-DL13-G coolant factory-diluted w/ distilled water 50/50 (!): Picture # 4 - concentrated VC-13-G coolant:

Prairieedge (and everybody), please report back when you get good turn signal switchbacks properly working without resistors. I've been looking for them for a couple of months already; even the expensive ones are calling for resistors, which I resist to use lol. Please let us know. Thanks in advance.