Edgingage

Hello WWWPerfA and all: WWWPerfA, thanks for your opinion and suggestion. I agree that once you put a new part starts to pull the old ones off lol. I'll list the main repair history for the last year. Maybe that'll help you make me understand what/why was done, and also help you to answer one more question I'll have at the end: - Sep 2019: dealer replaced right front ball joint and control arm assembly - (4-W align - cambers set toes had to boost to put out) - $639.62 Very shortly after the above repair, the steering mechanism was making some noise when steering left or right. - Dealer's diagnosis: will need a left front axle and lower control arm. - Nov 2019: dealer replaced left front axle / SHAFT-front axle / arm assembly - front suspension / left front lower arm - (sway bar link nuts had to be heated, had to also go into the frame due to one nut spinning inside frame, with use of welder and torch was able to remove bolt) - $1173.75 - Aug 2020: dealer found faulty, and replaced, both outer tie rods - $622.85 After this last repair, just coming out of the shop, the steering wheel has some short and sharp oscillations (side wise motion, NOT vibrations) when driving on any minor irregular surfaces (rough asphalt, small batches or small bumps), and also some side pulling (hard to keep the vehicle going straight free hands; just for test driving! ) And the click noise described above (coming out of the shop as well). Do you see anything wrong in that repair history, or something that can pinpoint the cause for the short and sharp oscillations on the steering wheel? Very annoying, ...and worrisome, of course. Thank you all in advance for your time, thoughts and suggestions.

Hello all: We know that different tire sizes have different width, but the tire width is generally described as the linear distance from one outside wall to the other wall outside. However, what I would like to know is the width of the actual contact surface, in other words, the width of the part of the tire which is actually in contact with the asphalt surface. The reason of my inquiry is because I believe having heard or read somewhere in the past that many tire brands even though they have a wider tire (side wall to side wall) from one tire size to the next one up, the actual contact patch remains the same from one tire size to the next one up. Is there any way for me to know the actual contact patch width in tires of different sizes? I really would like to find that out. I want to buy the widest size I can fit in my 2011 Edge stock rim (8" x 18"), not for the look but for the actual widest contact patch in the tires. Any help trowing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated in advance.

Hello WWWPerfA and all: Thanks for your time, comments and suggestions. My vehicle doesn't have chrome clads, unfortunately (I wish; I'm looking for chrome rims!). It has the regular OEM/stock rims, aluminum, I think. My concern, or rather frustration is because the noise appeared right after they replaced both outer tie rods which I hadn't noticed absolutely any problem with them while driving. All the problems (clicking and steering vibration, pulling) came up right after they "fixed" the tie rods. Yes, I requested the alignment report (please see attachment; they charged me $99.95 for the alignment only; $541.61 in total). The red ink marks are my own trying to compare and learn what they mean. The greatest part of my frustration is because they told me they'll "look" at it. I'm sure they'll "hear" nothing wrong as the problem started after their "fix". I know my car had a super smooth and noiseless ride before their tie rods "fix". Now it doesn't... But WWWPerfA, the *click* noise now in my car matches the description in the TSB you posted (although it's not listed there). Do you think it might be a different cause? I'm sure something is not quite tight as before around there after the dealer "fixed" both outer tie rods. Anyway... Thank you all for your time, comments and suggestions. 2020-08-17-Alignment.PDF This is NOT my vehicle (photo "borrowed" from the net) but those are my same stock rims:

Snoking, Xtra, thank you very much for your comments and info. That's what I was looking for. Greatly appreciated. I want to go as wider as safely possible with the same profile: I would like to go to 265/60R18. Does anyone know if it's safe to do so? Meaning, would the tires rub the well or a suspension component on full turns of the wheels? Please let me know your thoughts or experiences. Thanks in advance.

Hello folks: Can someone please give me some inside on this? I really need to know how wide I can go in my 2011 Edge without compromising safety. Basically, is it safe to put 255/60R18 keeping the same ration from stock 245/60R18, or I need to lower to the ratio to 255/55R18 if I want to go wider. Any website where I can visualize the changes in tire ratio (similar to what TireRack used to have) will be greatly appreciated. Any directions greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Live n Misery, thanks for your reply, and sorry for my late one. I may consider to spend on a cold air intake if it can get over other more critical issues first. Thanks anyways. WWWPerfA, thank you VERY much for your last suggestion to check. Here is the dealer's report: "Driver rear side had a stuck slider pin which caused the inner pad to wear out. Heated it up and got it free. Cleaned out and applied silicone grease. Cleaned slider and now it's free." Fuel consumption immediately improved from 14.2L/100 KM (16.6 MPG) to 13.2L/100 KM (17.8 MPG). I still have a long way to achieve Live n Misery's..., but one step at a time Thank you again.

Hello all: WWWPerfA, million thanks for such a valuable info. I've recently noticed the same "clicking" noise EXACTLY as described in this thread: when accelerating from stops, and/or shifting to/from reverse. What concerns me is that I started to hear this noise exactly after the dealer replaced both outer tie rods. They "found" a problem with the outer tie rods upon mandatory annual motor vehicle inspection (MVI). What I mean is that I never have absolutely any clicking noise whatsoever before they replaced both outer tie rods... That puzzles me (?) Another thing I want to mention (WITHOUT intention of hijacking this thread) is that after they replaced both outer tie rods the steering wheel is very erratic when driving on irregular surfaces, any small batch, bump or just rough surfaces the steering wheel sharply oscillates (move to the sides), basically I have to "fight" the steering wheel to keep it straight when driving on any irregular surface; that NEVER happened before they replaced both outer tie rods. I also noticed that's a little bit hard to keep the vehicle going straight, it feels like slightly pulling. They did a four-wheel alignment after they replaced the outer tie rods. ...But that's a different subject, I know (I'm just frustrated, sorry). Going back to the main subject (clicking noise) I would like to ask a couple of questions: 1- I don't see the Ford Edge 2011 listed. Therefore, may I assume that mine is not under consideration for a "free" repair? If that's the case (if I have to pay for this repair), then question 2: 2- how serious is that problem? In other words, is that a safety issue? Should I repair that right away? What could happen if I keep driving without fixing the "clicking" problem? As usual, million thanks in advance for your thoughts, comments and suggestions.

What's the advantage or difference with the 3.1 version, for me to know if it's worse the trouble, please. I'm always scared of changing what's working... Please let me know. TIA.

Yah, I'm getting a similar warning now, on and off. I guess time is up for mine too Thanks for your response.

Oh! Nice! I "envy" you lol. That's what I've been looking for a long while now, that whole set to replace my factory 245/60R18, but no luck ?. I guess I'll have to spend the big bucks... Enjoy them in good health ?.

I had a similar issue not on my 2011 Edge but in a 2004 Chrysler Intrepid, in (only) one of the front lamps. I solved that problem excactly as Davidceder suggests. This is my experience on this issue: I used a 3/16" drill bit (if I remember correctly) and drilled two small holes as low as possible in the light casing but as safely as possible off the body paint (put a rag/cloth/tape for extra protection of the paint): drilled one hole to the closest point to the center of the car, and the other hole the farthest away towards the outside of the car, basically the farthest two points in the lower part of the light casing. In this way, the aerodynamic action of the air will act as a syphon. Now, as I mentioned, I had the problem in only one lamp and therefore I drilled the affected lamp only. Well, the effect was so beneficial that the drilled lamp eventually looked way better, nicer and brighter than the one that had no condensation inside. That's how effective drilling those holes was. I then drilled the other casing, ...just to get it even I want to add: before I drilled the holes, I was scared, concerned that I was just going to make the problem worse, thinking that maybe when driving under the rain, or under a car (pressure) watch more water will penetrate in the casing to make things worse. Nop, no noticeable water ever got through those small drilled holes; condensation was gone for good, lamp was always dry and bright since then. And the last thing I want to add is, the reason for that condensation to occur it is because there is a faulty seal somewhere around the light casing that is allowing the humid air to enter, get trapped and then condensates. It's a Physics thing that I can't explain properly, but it's basically a manufacturing defect (not a manufacturing "design", as Ford is trying to justify). Last but not least: do not spend a whole lot of time trying to figure out the weather conditions causing that lamp condensation; you'll go nowhere on that route. And even though you might eventually find that that happens "X" amount of hours before, during or after "Y" air temp combined with "Z" relative humidity, etc., you can predict but can't control the weather, so, it doesn't matter. Before I drilled the holes, I also did all those things: park outside the garage, inside the garage, check on rainy days, on sunny days, on foggy days, etc.. it didn't matter, it was out of my control no matter what I did or try to do, ...until I drilled the holes Good luck, folks. PS: I never caulked/plugged/closed the holes back; not needed. PS2: Funny... I just remember that the person who suggested me to do so several years ago on my Chrysler is a friend of mine and, coincidentally, ...a Ford Certified Mechanic

Could the batteries be replaced, instead of the whole sensors? Just asking (probably a S question...)

Hello folks: A few years ago, Tirerack had a feature where you could see how different tire sizes look in your vehicle, from a side view. You could see if the overall size was smaller or larger than the OEM tires, for comparison. That feature kind of gave us an idea of the proportion/ratio of the tire size in the wheel well. I seem to remember that it even told us the maximum tire diameter you can put on a particular vehicle, with more other details (but I'm not certain on the latter). I wonder if any of you could suggest/recommend a website with similar feature nowadays. Basically, my 2011 Edge takes 245/60R18 OEMs, but I would like to know if I can change to a wider contact patch keeping the same wall ratio and rim diameter. For example, from stock 245/60R18 to 255/60R18 or 265/60R18 or 275/60R18 or 285/60R18 or 295/60R18, but still keeping the same wall ratio and rim diameter SAFELY, or if as I increase the contact patch width I'll have to also decrease the side wall ratio. i.e., from 245/60 to 255/55, and so on (the wider contact patch/the smaller wall ratio). If I have to decrease the sidewall ratio as I increase the contact patch width, how would the wheels will look like in the well? Will they fill the same overall wheel diameter or the whole wheel diameter will look slightly smaller as I decrease sidewall ratio when increasing contact patch width?. i don't mind to go to a little bigger in total wheel diameter IF it's still 100% SAFE to do so, but I wouldn't want to go to an overall smaller wheel diameter if I don't have to. In summary: 1.- What's the widest tire I could go with still SAFELY on 18" OEM rims for a 2011 Edge SEL (Front WD)? 2.- How the overall diameter will end up looking if I also have to decrease the sidewall ratio to be able to go the widest on the contact patch? I think we also need to take into account the rim width. My understanding is that OEM rims are 18"x8" for 2011 Edge SEL. 2.- Any website where I can see how the patch width & wall ratio changes would look like for comparison? Any comments, suggestions and/or references are greatly appreciated in advance.

Yes, I also did a recent search (after my post) and found out they now have two newer models of the same tool with lots more torque, but bulkier, of course. BTW, they say that the DeWalt batteries won't fit, have to be their proprietary batteries. All mine over three years now, so far so good ?, but I'm not a heavy duty user, I admit.

thanks, that's the kind of info i was looking for. Glad to help

Deleted. Repeated.

Yes, you're right, it depends on the seller. I also scrolled further down to the 177 reviews for the socket cited by Sage and linked by 1004ron and found out that also depends on the reviewer (I like to read the critical reviews as well). For me that type of socket is a no-no with impact tools; but that's not the main subject in this thread. My apologies...

Maybe it's the other way around, for non impact-gun users. I found the exact same product on the Canadian side (double the price: CDN $22.35 + tax), but the interesting part is that it reads: "Not intended for use with pneumatic or air tools" So, my interpretation is that it's not intended for use with an impact wrench.

Just to clarify my use of the gun I posted above, no intention to "sell" off my tool, not of any personal benefit to me; in any case it's just free ad: I don't spin the nuts completely at full torque; I just use it to break off and to tight up. It works like a pistol trigger: set at high speed range (0-3300 BPM) with full trigger pressure gives full torque; once the nut breaks loose you release the pressure off the trigger and instantly decreases the spin to a nice very slow unscrew. It does the same in reverse mode set at low speed range (0-1200 RPM). You control the torque/spin with the finger pressure on the trigger... The OP/TS was asking about an impact wrench; that's way I'm giving the info about mine. Bear in mind that my 2011 Edge requires only 100 ft-lbs torque. This gun does a great job for that torque. I have electric (corded) and also compressor air nut busters, one even with digital display to set the torque. None of them compare with this little portable gun for the its job and convenience.

I few years ago I bought a kit with an ultra-compact (nose-to-rear-tool measurement of only 5-7/32" (132 mm) 1/2" square anvil drive with friction ring system. Regular pricey at CAD $329.99 + tax; I bought it on sale for about 35% off, I believe. It has 3-speed range selector switch: lower range (0-1200 RPM/0-1650 BPM), medium range (0-1700 RPM/0-2510 BPM) and higher range (0-2800 RPM/0-3300 BPM) to adjust to the task, built-in LED work light with time-delay, and remaining battery power LED indicator. The kit came with the 1/2" brushless impact wrench, two 2Ah batteries, 35-minute fast charger, belt clip and carrying case. It delivers up to 165 ft-lbs of maximum torque which is plenty for my 2011 Edge (100 ft-lb torque recommended by the owner's manual). It has been able to ALWAYS bust off the wheel nuts but, I ALWAYS use a torque-limiting extension stick to avoid overtorque and then finish tightening up with an accurate torque wrench. The gun is small and light enough to fit in the glove compartment (but I put it on the cargo for the road). ...And it can change four sets of wheels (two cars, 16 wheels!) off and on only one full charge, and still it has plenty of juice left to go for more... HIGHLY recommended.

Thank you Akirby! I just removed the caps. Fluid levels were not that bad, I think; all six cells had the fluid level above plates. I watched a YouTube video and topped the cells up to the bottom edge of the round plastic opening coming down; hope it's ok. I'll continue and finish the testing this weekend. Million thanks!

Hello all: Just to let you know that I haven't gotten lost... I was gathering a few tools and doing some preliminary checks/tests. I'm planning to complete the tests this weekend and will report back at the beginning of this coming week. Some info may be interesting for the Canadian marketers (like me For now, I just want to let everyone know that Akirby is damn right about the root cause: the battery. I want to acknowledge that, and thank Akirby for his patience and perseverance!! Meanwhile, I need a little bit more help from anyone to complete my tests, and please excuse my dumb questions: I need you folks to look back in the previous page (1) at my post dated April 15 with a picture showing the battery currently on my vehicle: Ford Motorcraft Tested Tough Max BXT-65-850. I would appreciate it if anyone can please confirm what type of battery that is (again, sorry for my dumb request). I read and read but get VERY confused as I understand that one type of battery can also be another type of battery... Anyway, my questions for help are: .- is it valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA) battery? Probably this is it, not only because it appears to be the most commonly used battery but also because it has a Reserve Capacity of 150 min, and what I understand from my readings is that RC pertains to lead-acid batteries only (but I may be completely wrong). .- is it wet-cell or flooded battery? Sometimes I think to understand from my readings that wet-cell/flooded/lead-acid batteries are all the same type, one requires water top up, and the other type is maintenance free. But maybe I'm wrong. .- is it deep-cycle battery? No idea what this is, but I don't think mine is. .- is it dry-cell? (AGM or gel)? As far as Omar302 knows, mine is not an AGM battery, but I got the impression he was not 100% sure (and I'm sorry if I got the wrong impression, Omar). Can anyone please confirm it is not? Can anyone please tell me what type it is then? .- if my battery is one of the commonly used wet-cell lead-acid battery, is it a maintenance free or I should remove the two small rectangular caps at the top and top up/refill it with de-ionized water? .- if my battery is not a wet-cell lead-acid battery, what is it? Can I recondition/restore my battery if is not a wet-cell lead-acid battery, or reconditioning/restoring is applicable only to wet-cell lead-acid batteries? .- regardless of the type of battery I have (thanks in advance) can I recondition/restore the battery still in the car or I need to remove the battery from the car for the reconditioning/restoring process? As you can see, I am a FULL ignorant about batteries. My questions look (are) redundant because I go in circles trying to answer those questions myself and, again, I find confusing to clearly disseminate among different types of batteries. So, please, be patience, ...and condescending Thank you all in advance.

Akirby, I can't get it shipped to Canada. Here that's the price they sell it for (CAD $205.05), unfortunately

Handfiler, thanks a lot for your info and suggestions. Yes, I also thought that the CTEKs are priced too high, but I knew nothing about these type of tools; I couldn't judge. I'm currently looking at the Mroinge maintainer you suggest: Mroinge MBC055. I am also looking since yesterday at another brand that looks very similar in functions, at the exact same price: MOTOPOWER MP00207. They're both selling for CAD $43.99, and I think they both do pretty much the exact same thing. Now, for the helpful crowd (all of you folks), and as a future reference, I'm going to summarized bellow the main differences I've learned (thanks to you, folks) and I've found between them: .- The Mroinge MBC055 has in its specifications a warning reading: "IMPORTANT: When you select the charging mode, you must disconnect the battery". I don't know how true or necessary that is, but if so I wouldn't want to do that. .- The MOTOPOWER MP00207, besides doing almost all the same, it also has a battery recovery mode which, IF i understood correctly from everything that has been discussed and/or suggested in this thread, it's a Repair mode for sulfated batteries (and, again, IF I understood correctly, I think that's the main feature folks here are recommending to have in a smart charger for old batteries, ...like mine So, a few hours taking from your brains and other few hours reading from the net have made me learn something new (to me), and useful. If I interpreted the gathered and discussed info correctly, and nobody has other corrections, objections or suggestions, I'll be ordering the Motopower MP00207 soon. Please let me know if something is not correct. Hopefully this tool will indirectly take the battery message away for a long time, if not for good. I REALLY thank you ALL for your time sharing your knowledge and experience, and providing helpful info, hints and suggestions.

Hello bac2010: Yes, I found the reserve capacity for my battery (you're right: 150 min), but I couldn't find its amperage rate so, THANK YOU! I also found the same CTEK you bought, I think: CTEK (56-353) Multi US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger, Black (CDN$ 205.05 around here); but some websites give me a warning about the CTEK 40-206 MXS 5.0 12-Volt Battery Charger (priced at CND$ 119.99, previously recommended here) reading: "This does not fit your 2011 Ford Edge" (?). Very confusing, for me at least. Anyway, as you say, I'll find any smart charger that also restores at the same time. That's what I need to make sure now, what spec (or key word descriptor) to look in a smart charger for me to know for sure it will ALSO restore the battery, not only recharge it. BTW, the suggestion given by Omar302 (thanks again) to leave the car more than 8 hours away from the fob, worked for me, and actually explained (at least in part) why the message was showing intermittently, what was driving me puzzling crazy. Based on Omar302's hint, this is my interpretation of why I almost always get the message when I parked at work after my short run from home: With the same short run coming back from work I not always get the message when I parked at home, probably because the fob has been away from the car for more than 8 hours parked at work and the BMS has had time to reset itself by then. After parked at home overnight again, for what we all know now connecting all the dots, it appears that the BMS may click again after detecting what appears to indicate a low battery charge; and that's probably why I get the message back again when I parked at work after my daily short run from home. That's what I take... Everything is now starting to have a rationale, to make sense (at least for me now), and it's helping to explain the "mystery" about the intermittence of the warning message. That's was throwing me completely off... For now, until I find a suitable smart charger, I'm going to hook the car overnight to an old tender I have at home (12V/2A). I'm getting the warning message more often now so, the battery may be getting to its end! lol Thanks again; thanks EVERYBODY!