Edgingage

Thanks for your prompt replies and advise, folks. Will do. IWRBB, when I search or ask for metal hub rings, what specifically should I ask for (size wise): for 63.4mm or 72.6 mm ones? It's probably a stupid question but I'd like to make sure. I have one more question that I mentioned but forgot to specifically ask above it (sorry): What about the probability or risk that the inner part of the rim may rub against the caliper? Any way for me to know, check or somehow find out before buying them? I've read that has happened to some people before (rims rubbing against the front calipers). Thanks again in advance for any thoughts, advise or suggestions.

Happy New Year, folks! I've been reading looking for advise to upsize the wheels in my 2011 Edge SEL and OEM rims 18"x8" w/+40mm offset and 63.4mm center bore (according to "Wheel-size") and 245/60R18 tires on them. I believe this Edge models can admit up to 22" wheels with no problem; therefore my concern is not just about the wheel size, but about other specs like offset, center bore, rubbing caliber, etc. I'm tented to pull the trigger on a set of used chrome rims at a tenting price from a local private vendor who removed them from his 2008 Dodge Nitro. These rims are 20"x8.5" w/ a smaller offset (+35mm) and a bigger center bore (72.6mm), planning to mount 245/50R20 tires on them. My main concern (where I will mostly appreciate all your help) is about the safety of putting those 08 Nitro rims in my 11 Edge, with such differences in offset and center bore. Does this sound safe or it's a "no-no"? Is that variation in offset and center bore safely admissible? Your thoughts, comments and/or advise are greatly appreciated in advance.

Yes, Omar302, that's what I tried to mean (sorry): just the filter cover and connecting tube all the way to the intake (not the filter casing). I'll try again this weekend but I have to confess that I had very hard times trying to disconnect the white pin holding the mas air flow sensor wiring, the actual fresh air connector, and another connector (on the right-hand side) that I don't know what it's but it goes all the way down to the back of the engine compartment. I'm going to take some pictures of the exact connectors to post them here and see if I could get more help specific on those points. The video posted by WWWPerfA_ZN0W is very helpful (thanks again), but ...I'm limited in my mechanical abilities... and afraid of breaking things (it's not the same configuration). Help is always greatly appreciated. Thank you Omar302 and all. PS: Yes, you're right: the IE

Ah! Then what I thought about the Petro-Canada gas was not too off (I just wasn't sure): they add some other stuff to the gas during the winter months. And that also makes sense about why I hadn't gotten a frozen gas line in many years without me adding any antifreeze to the gas tank myself. I don't think I have seen the brand name HEET around here, but I haven't looked for that particular product. I know they sell some generic products just called "Gas Antifreeze" or something like that. I'll have to check to know better. Thank you enigma-2; thank you all.

Great forum; great people; great info, explanation, clarification and advise. Definitively taken! Thank you all!

Oh!, Omar302, thanks a lot for letting me know! So, there's no "short cut" then. I'll have to disconnect the whole fresh air intake assembly not only the air filter housing... Thanks a lot! TheWizard, thanks a lot for the info. So, that could explain (at least in part) why I haven't experienced frozen gas lines during the winter times... Thank you all! PS: for some reason, the computer is not allowing me to include quotes in my replies; sorry.

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I don't think Petro-Canada puts ethanol in its regular unleaded 87-octane gasoline. I haven't seen it stated... I checked the cold air intake tube over the weekend and it's dry so far. Thank you and macbwt for the hint on the valve cover! Not sure if it could still happen later on after so many miles so, I'll check every time I change the engine air filter once a year. Thank you all!

Thank you WWWPerfA_ZN0W, enigma-2, macbwt and all for your helpful info, encouragement, advise, suggestions and hints. I changed it using green Motorcraft coolant 70/30 deionized water. PS: now on to the next task: trans fluid change. Thanks in advance

Buff, finally off!, ...after a very long and tough day at work!! Thanks folks for your valuable information and helpful suggestions. I really appreciate them, honestly. In the very few days I’ve been subscribed to this amazing fora I have learned more things about cars (and life in general) than the whole 20 years driving. You won’t believe how many things I NOW know I’ve done wrong, really wrong with my cars, and of course now they make perfect sense and are good explanations of why that happened! LMAO. IWRBB, I’m hooked up to city water, which is good water, even safe for people to drink it straight from the tap (if that means anything good to use it in cars LOL), but I found very interesting this undated 5-page doc from Utah (see link below): https://web.archive.org/web/20100701012047/http://www.hazardouswaste.utah.gov/SWBranch/Adobe/P2Factsheets/AntifreezeRecyclingFactSheet.pdf macbwt, I’m late for my first fluid change; it’s supposed to have it done 4K Km away), but I will catch up with all of them (thanks!). I asked the dealer about the coolant twice in separate occasions: the first time I asked (when I was checking the car before buying it) a Service Advisor told me the coolant and spark plugs were changed at 160k Km. The second time I asked (after I bought the car and I asked for a written service report) a different Service Advisor told me the coolant wasn’t done. That’s why I’m here. LOL WWWPerfA_ZN0W, it’s not that I don’t trust the dealer, please. I basically read through the forum and reproduced some comments I found in these fora where some people were stating that Ford dealers use tap water for the coolant flush. I don’t know; I haven’t yet had any real experience with Ford dealers (positive or negative) as I haven’t requested any actual maintenance service from them yet, ...only a vehicle safety inspection pre-buying my car, and I think the report was good. I’ll have some idea and opinion of my own after the flush. Thank you very much, folks, for your courtesy, suggestions, explanations, help and overall your time to answer my questions. Greatly appreciated! PS: More questions coming soon after! LOL Thanks in advance; let’s take care of each other.

Chefduane: I have already done all (or most of) that you kindly, friendly and helpfully suggested: numerous posts (yes, good ones and bad ones, I guess you suggest the good ones, right? which ones?); I have searched here and youtube (did I say that already?); does my edge has a petcock, do you know? I don't know; I know a drain doesn't get it all out, is that good to do then?; To get one of "those" flush kits, is that what PerfA posted in a PDF above, is that a flush kit? I din't know I could get all those things together in one kit; that's really helpful to know so, THANKS (really), I didn't know; I do know about the pollutant and poisoning part of the antifreeze but thanks for the reminder (honestly); Should I do a complete flush and fill or just a drain and fill? Yes, I know that some things I just have to start doing to learn them, but I don't have a junk car to "experiment". I think that's what this (and other fora) was about: to show short cuts to people and help them avoid mistakes already made by other people. There're different ways to learn: some people are supersmart and figure out things by themselves; other people are dumm (like me) and need to be told how to do things. I did buy a Haynes; I can suggest you a good book of molecular biology; I'm sure you'll understand it all just from opening up. If you really know more than one language, then you should know better that all type of jokes are not welcome. Honestly, I have been reading all your "contributions" in the only three treads I've posted so far, and honestly, without intention to offend you, I can't really see a real contribution to my learning curve. So, if you really have nothing helpful to contribute to my questions, please go make your jokes to some other treads. I just bought a car that I'm not fully familiar with, I would like to treat it well to last me longer, and I will ALWAYS appreciate people who takes their precious time to help others; I do in a different field. The cranium might be surrounding your smart brain. Take good care of it, and please allow the others who really want to help me out. Thank you.

OK, chefduane, I agree but I need some clarification, please: you wrote that "a coolant change is... a simple drain and fill...", but further you wrote "a coolant flush/fill"... If it's just a drain and fill, you could help directing me to a GOOD drawing, graphic or video showing how to do it (among all sort of junk and garbage popping up the internet), if you really want to help. I should be able to do a coolant drain and fill, but I'm hesitant to do a coolant flush with all those houses in and out and the related loosing and tightening (as shown in the PDF doc posted above). I was setting myself to do a drain and fill, but then I searched and read here and there that a drain and fill was not good. Is it good or not? I also read that the next coolant change after the initial done by Ford dealer has a much shorter interval because Ford dealer uses tap water instead of distilled water. Is that true or not? Those things may be very simple for most of you who know more than the basic ins and outs, but it IS very confusing for first-timers, like me. What's true? what's not true? what's correct? what's not correct? what's simple? what could end up screwing my car? I'm not kind to pay the dealer for things that I KNOW I can do, but I also think that it's better for me to pay less to have the dealer done what I don't know how than paying more after screwing my car myself (and having to bring it to the dealer to finish up anyway). You write things like the blinker fluid tank... Is that a "joke", same as the animation post, same as changing the oil every 3K? If they are intended to be "jokes", your comments are not helping, just confusing so, thanks! People whose English is not their first language don't get language jokes... I don't know if you know any other communication language... Thanks for everyone's real help. Always very appreciated.

Don't stop pouring info! LOL The information you've been giving me is DEFINITIVELY of a tremendous value. Eye (and mind) opening! It's just that I'm not mechanically inclined and I'll have to start gathering tools and utensils, first, and then scratching my head on how to do it right, and still concerned that things could go wrong anyway. LOL I DO appreciate your info, suggestions, advice and time doing so. Calling the dealer tomorrow for an appointment for an antifreeze change (I couldn't get thru today). Engine air filter dissembling scheduled this weekend for me to check for oil leak (thank you!). Still bunch of questions for me to post in these fora (air filters, lighting, tires width, rim offset, body corrosion prevention/treatment, weather strips and windows and door hinges maintenance/lubrication, Sync stuff (My Key, My Touch, My Ford, My Etc... ), navigation/GPS updates (one tread at a time LOL), and other things I'm sure will come to mind once I continue getting answers, suggestions and advice from great people like you and others around these fora. So, stay tuned. LOL. Thanks a lot and take care.

Hey folks, Thanks for your replies and info. Homework continues. LOL Yes, owner's manual states that the antifreeze for Canada should be of an orange color BUT IF it's dark green already in the system do NOT change it back. I went to Ford dealer to ask about that and they told me they only use the dark green color here (?). WWWPerfA_ZN0W, first, a correction on an error from my part: the water I've used for mixing and toping coolants it's a result of a double process named Reverse Osmosis (RO) AND Deionized (DI) water (not Distilled water as I previously wrote). I'd have to do some extra reading and/or consult with the specialists where I've procured that water regarding this processes (RO/DI water) but my understanding is that they upgraded the system from Distilled water to RO/DI water because the result of the latter process it's a purer water with a much more higher quality compared to just Distilled water, precisely to be used in a bunch of automated and precision instruments and analyzers and for the formulation of medical devises under a very tight and strict regulations by the FDA and other regulatory bodies. They test the water quarterly (four times a year) for a whole bunch of different parameters, organics and inorganics, and they all have to come under very tight specifications and very very low concentrations, IF any content other than H and O, at all! LOL. In summary, from what I heard, that water cannot have any presence of chemicals of any kind, or organic material of any kind. Otherwise, the whole plant has to be shut down and therefore the business lost. Distilled water is not as cheap here but not crazily expensive either, although sometimes goes on sale. If you still think that Distilled water is more appropriate than RO/DI water, I'll go for it. And also thanks for the doc describing the Ford-recommended flushing protocol. It's overwhelming for me. By the time I buy all the tools, utensils and parts I'll need, plus the inexperienced time I'll need to use, plus the risk of something going wrong for my inexperience and then ending up bringing it to the dealer to repair my damage anyways, it's not going to be much cheaper than paying the dealer for the whole job. I thought there was a simpler, middle-of-the-road process that could get me bye without the risk of a corroded line or a water pump failure. So, oh boy, this never ends... I start to wonder why I came back to Ford. I was looking for a simple/low-maintenance comfy vehicle, not a headache... LOL. I should have looked for a Journey... Thank you all!

Distilled water is not a problem. I actually use reverse-osmosis distilled water (better, closer to pure water than just distilled water). Now, I don't know about the Motocraft coolant, but Mopar coolant (Chrysler OEM genuine parts), indicates that you can mix it from 50/50 up to a max 70/30 coolant/water to achieve both a higher freezing point and a higher boiling point and more corrosion protection. I always mixed it that way: 70/30. Is this advisable to do with the Motorcraft coolant? Will it give more corrosion protection, lower freezing point and higher boiling point as well if mixed 70/30 instead of 50/50? And just thinking ahead: you also advised to use water when topping up. Is it better to top up with coolant instead? I always do/did that, topping up with concentrated or diluted coolant instead of water. If you recommend a complete flush this time around, I'll probably ask the dealer to do it, but I've heard/read that Ford dealer uses tap water instead of distilled water to mix it up (?). If that's the true case, then I'll probably buy the concentrate from them, mix it up at home and bring it back for them to use it in the flush... Thanks once again for your valuable advise.

Hello all: I keep needing your advise and suggestions in different other topics about my new (to me) Edge. I just finished to get good ideas and suggestions in this forum regarding engine oil and filter types for oil changes. Thank you! Next in priority line is the coolant change (as suggested to my first post in the Welcome forum). I'm going to bring a reply over here to continue with that subject in a more appropriate forum (see below). I have done some YouTube search and have found everything from a guy making a big dripping mess to another saying that what Ford dealers do is garbage, and a few other things in between, including guys saying you be drain, feel with water only, drive for half an hour, drain again, feel with antifreeze, drive again for half an hour, drain again, fill again with antifreeze and drive it half an hour again (?) Other even said that the thermostat must also be changed at the same time. In summary, hard for me to discern who knows what is doing or saying in YouTube, Years ago, I used to buy off the shelf at stores any antifreeze "recommended" for a make by the antifreeze manufacturer, usually the cheapest I could find, or close to the cheapest. So, I don't really know if there are proven best antifreeze fluid in the market (like synthetic coolant?) for my "new" 2011 Edge SEL FWD 3.5L. What type of antifreeze fluid and procedure would you recommend? Owner's manual recommends change at 160K Km; I'm at 164K Km and therefore overdue. I'm planning to change it this weekend. Please keep in mind that, if possible, I would like to do things the cheapest way without compromising quality. I don't need to do the absolute very best; I just need to do the best cost effective. Your suggestion and advise is greatly appreciated in advance. Thank you WWWPerfA_ZN0W and everyone! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ WWWPerfA_ZN0W Ford Edge Legal Resident Edge Platinum Member 8,007 posts Region:U.S. Northeast Location:Maryland Edge's Year:Decline Posted Today, 01:40 PM Fluid film for exterior surface rust protection. Not sure about treating drilled areas or the insides of panels. Paint/dielectric grease/quality rubber grommets/??? Antifreeze/coolant should be changed out regularly, at the very LATEST at Ford's recommended intervals, I think first change is 105K miles, remainder every 50K miles thereafter. I would go so far as to say the FIRST change and EVERY change should be at 50K-60K miles or every 80-100K kilometers. A commonly available tester does not test the additives in the coolant, just the specific gravity. You can get coolant strips, but they STILL will not test the additives. Easy enough to change out the coolant, just do it. Trans fluid: Ford oversells the life of the fluid, saying it will go 150K miles. Yeah? Do you see them offering warranty past 150K miles. That will be the day. Anyhoo, same recommendation as coolant. Every 50-60K miles. And if it has not been changed at 150K+ miles, change immediately, and then at 30K miles after, then resume 50-60K mile changes. Again, additives. They get depleted, crud builds up, gums up sensors, prevents smooth operation, ultimately wearing down the mechanicals unnecessarily. Engine oil: Synthetic Blend is "good enough", it does work well in the naturally aspirated engines. Although at higher mileage, past 100K, I would definitely move up to full synthetic brand name oil. Forced induction engines? Full synthetic all the way. If you start using "High Mileage" oils, it is a one way street, you cannot go back to regular oil So NOT recommended as routine maintenance. Use the Motorcraft filters, they get oil the quickest to every part of the engine on startup. Rattlefree operation FTW! Headlights: Use high output halogens, I assume you do not have HIDs due to being in Canada? H9 bulbs can be substituted in some applications for higher output. Not sure how the assembly will do with the extra heat of the H9. My short answer to your snapshot ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Oh boys! Where should I start? ...I know, from WWWPerfA_ZN0W, who scared the heck out of me! That video you posted (thank you!) Man, you see, this forum is wonderful. Even though I would have found that video on my own (using Wikipedia, YouTube or other resources) I would not have interpreted and understood the importance of finding a little bit of oil in the air filter. It is clear for you and obviously for the guy doing the video (and for many more of you out here) because you know what he's talking about. I didn't! So, THANKS again for such important hint. I'll be ripping that off on the weekend if I can't escape early enough from work and other after-work domestic tasks before the weekend. The day just needs to have more than 24 hours for the working class to have barely enough time for everything else we need to search and learn... LOL But this is becoming interesting (at least for me) even though it may derail just a little bit off the main subject: I mentioned that I was hesitant to add the HEET stuff just because I've never had a freezing gas line issue in any of my Chrysler or my VW ever. I did now remember having that issue about 20-22 years ago; guess what? It was in my Mercury But anyway, as I mentioned to you having seen or read that Petro-Canada adds some stuff in the gas to prevent that from happening, i went to put some gas today and took a picture of its ad sticking on the gas pump (see below). Now, this was not what I read before; they either changed their stuff or name, OR they add something different during the winter months, because that's what I remember having read years ago (something for the winter time). Yah, I know; you don't see the connection yet; just wait, keep reading. LOL I was considering, however, to use that Techron Concentrate Plus that you also well explained before about its action cleaning out all those internal combustion parts, not for me to use it in my Edge yet but for my 04 Trepid which hasn't seen any internal cleaning stuff in years. Then, I kept following your suggestion and did a search for Techron and, look at the old tread from other forum I found in my search! (pasted below): Techron Injector CleanerAnyone know where I can pickup this additive in the Toronto area? I heard it does wonders and would like to try it on both my cars. Share: Aug 12th, 2006 5:32 pm I don't think you can get that here. I got 4 bottles left from my last trip to the US. Aug 13th, 2006 9:40 am Any Petro-Canada shop. Goes by the name of Tactrol here." -(end of paste). Do you see the connection now? LOL So, that Techron additive appears to be "standard" in the Petro-Canada gasoline (at least for the summer months). Back to the main subject (what is it?) LOL Oh yah! I took several pictures of the engine compartment and a close-up of the battery spec and date. Please feel free to ask me for more pictures about anything else you can think you can help me (excuse the poor lighting, please). Around here, ppl don't call it tender, they call it battery charger (that's way i didn't recognize the term, besides that English is not my first language). I do have an old one that a friend of mine gave me last year when my Trepid battery went dead after having it parked for several months. I remember that it went dead again and another friend of mine told me to keep it charging all the time but I was afraid that it was going to overcharge and blow up. Then he told me to set it from 12v/6A to 12V/2A. I did that several times for a few days and I haven't had any issues again. It always starts sharp even if not driven for a week or two. And yes, I used to have Wikipedia as my home page in one of my browsers. I actually used it again recently after you suggested me to look at the volatility in the oil specs. Really useful specification. Thanks again! And thank you all folks for your great help, time, advise, suggestions and encouragements. Greatly appreciated.

Oh folks, I thought I had it all for this subject to realize that I'm still "bare" on this subject. I hope you folks still spend your precious time to keep educating me about many things I now know I don't know. I am AND WILL BE very appreciative, sincerely. Enigma-2 and akirby (I don't know what "Nuff" means, BTW), if M1 was shown to be better than MC, and it costs me about the same or less (M1 EP M1-212 = $11.95; MC FL500S = $12.99), why do you still suggest me to use MC instead of M1? I also wonder what type of Fram filter was tested and compared at that time. I was talking about the Fram Ultra Synthetic filter which costs me about the same as MC (XG10575 = $12.79). Not that I still consider to use the Fram filter now that I was given the OK to use M1 EP oil, as I had previously planned to use the M1 EP oil in combination with the M1 EP filter, but I needed to check with you folks if it's ok. Thank you! Thanks a lot for your explanation about what the HEET does and how it works. The thing that I used to put in the gas tank many years ago I thought it was an alcohol-based product (can't remember its name). The explanation I was given at the time was that that alcohol (probably methanol) mixes with the water in the tank and then with the gasoline to all pass through. But again, that was many years ago; I can't really reproduce the details. I stopped using it (after a check engine light came up), but I have never had a freezing gas line in any of my Chrysler at any temp, not even when parked outside at -30 Celsius for hours, ...unless Chrysler is built better than Ford for that matter (?). Petro Canada gas states that they take care of that and... I've never heard a complain on that regard, and I've never had a frozen gas line at any freezing temp again. If that happens with the Edge, then I'll add HEET to the tank. Now I'll have to be careful if I'm going to do so as I need to find out which components are in the HEET additive, as the owner's manual clearly indicates that the Edge is not to use fuel additives with metallic compounds, including manganese-based additives (?) Further ahead it states not to add aftermarket fuel additive products to the fuel tank, it shouldn't be necessary to add any aftermarket products to the fuel tank as these products have not been approved for the Edge engine (?) I don't know if my car is factory-equipped with a block heater; that's my question: how do I know? I bought it used. It's made in Canada, sold in Canada (according to the in-service record from the dealer) and has never being serviced in the US (according to CarProof records, the Canadian version of CarFax). I did fully read the owner's manual (every page!) and have been over again several times on certain parts of the manual. The engine block heater section starts on page 241 and finishes on page 243 (almost two full pages with no spaces). The title of the section reads "(if equipped)". There're very clear instructions and warnings on when and how to use the block heater. There's NOwhere a single mention on where the ... block heater is located LOL; that's why I asked the forum. Where're the Canadian Edge drivers?! Hiding with the block heater? LOL WWWPerfA_ZN0W, thank you very much for the great hint on how to track engine hours. Yes, my Edge has all those different gauge cluster options, including the climate control on the right-hand side of the display (I heard that some of them don't have that option from the steering wheel). Thank you also for the hint on how to check the oil quality while in use but... I have a problem: I'm not sure how to do that (I don't even know what the throttle body is, but I read that it has given a lot of trouble to a lot of people). So, when you say to "take the tube off the air filter", do you mean to remove the tube? I don't want to mess with the throttle body after hearing of so much trouble with it... Please explain, if you wouldn't mind. What I meant with the oil not passing the full mark on the stick (not overfilling) I meant that I have read that overfilling (passing above the full mark on the dip stick) may/can damage the intake (?); that's what I meant... I meant to ask you what caused/provoked your valve cover to blow out (I don't even know what the valve cover part is; sorry). I'm going to look for the Techron around here. I may or not use it (please see what I wrote about regarding additives in the owner's manual), unless it's really suggested as necessary. I don't want to get "check engine" lights and I know that some additives could cause that (like Lucas, for instance). I found out that 0W20 is not approved by Ford so I already deviated from that route (but thanks anyways). And wind is also the worst of the worse enemies here too! Imagine, normal outside temp could be -20 degree Celsius but it can reach/be felt the same as if it is -35 degrees Celsius, due to the added effect of the wind (it's called windchill factor). I usually park my car at work facing the south side as the cold wind usually blows from the north side. Not a whole lot but something to try to compensate LOL. Battery "tender" (I didn't get it; sorry). Now, hum..., short trips... Well, I've been doing those type of trips for the last 13 years; I have never have to replace a battery in any of my cars (Chrysler and VW), not even lost charge (I mean, not dead battery)... I looked at the battery inside the car and it seems to be a good one (size wise). I will keep it in mind but for other reason: one other option that I may do (now that my Trepid is fixed and back on the road) is to use my Trepid to commute and keep the Edge parked during work/week days. If my Trepid keeps behaving well, I'll use the Edge only for weekends (just to move it around as I have also heard that it's not a good idea to keep a car parked too long) and for longer trips. ...And for snow storm days!!! Gee haa! (I'll give the Trepid a break on storm days) LOL. Thank you, thank you, folks! Take care all.

Oh oh; oh boy oh boy oh boy... What I thought will be an innocent question with a straight forward answer has become a great source of information and brainstorming for me at least. Again, I feel VERY lucky and I am extremely grateful for your time folks to share your experiences, information and hints. I think I wrote in my OP here or in the self-introduction forum that my first car was a Mercury when I didn't know anything about cars, just barely driving. After more than 20 years owning and driving cars, after reading so much from your writing and suggested sources, I feel, or better said, I realize that I'm not much better ahead than where I was 20 years ago regarding car knowledge. I thought I knew something about it ...before my OP Anyway, Omar302, thanks for the hint about the IOLM (I don't even know what that stands for or means), but in my case will not be necessary to set it as time will always come before miles. If there is a way to set it up by time (days or hours) then it will be useful for my driving habits. WWWPerfA_ZN0W, you have mentioned several times to use engine hours instead. Is there a way to set or know that, other than keeping a personal record/diary? And I agree with you: all those six-seven oils are very close all together. Even using the apparently lesser of them is still an excellent oil to use. Another thing that I would like to emphasize/clarify is that, even though my choice "in a blink" would be M1 EP or CE EP it is NOT really because I'm planning on running them for their full-year claim but because of the extra protection they are suppose to provide in I'm late or lazy (or cold to change the oil at 6-7 months. So, basically, what I meant was that if that oil is supposed to be good for up to 12 months it should be still very good at only half its life expectancy Going a little bit more further in details: another reason why M1 E1 may still be my first choice it's because it's the only one (besides Amsoil) claiming to be good for "severe driving conditions", which is close to my "special operating conditions", . And that's what I mean with using EP; not that I pretend to go the full extend of the claim but having a peace of mind that the oil should hold good up to about half its claim for me to do the change. Also, I understand and partially agree in throwing extra bucks for quality. But I'm not too shavy to overkill. If Amsoil costs me at least double the M1, and I'm going to replace it half way through its full potential anyway, do I really need to spend those extra bucks on Amsoil? Maybe I will... (?) WWWPerfA_ZN0W, you also brought up another interesting point that I don't know about either (strange : "make sure there's no oil in the intake". What do you mean? How can I know? Is there a way for me to know that? I heard/read in other forums some time ago about not passing the full mark in the oil stick (not overfilling with engine oil). Is that what you're referring about? Techron Concentrate Plus through the fuel system? You're killing me What is that? What's that for? I don't know if my gas has ethanol content, I don't think so but I'm going to ask at the gas station. All I know is that the Edge runs with recommended 87 octanes regular unleaded gasoline. That's what I put in at the pump. In previous cars (Chrysler), some time ago, I used to add some kind of additive in the fuel tank to avoid gasoline freezing in the fuel lines because that happened to me with the Mercury (gasoline frozen in fuel lines). Once I got that "engine check" light (in a Chrysler) and stopped adding anything to the fuel tank. I never knew if that's the cause for sure but I have never had any frozen gas in the fuel lines anymore either. I use PetroCanada fuel only all the time and it states that already contains additive for the cold weather (?) Enigma-2, would you please mind to send me the exact link where filters were tested? I got diluted (lost) trying to find that info. FRAM is out now (based in what you just mentioned), but I still would like to consider Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter, if not too much worse than MasterCraft. And I haven't yet heard from anybody commenting if MasterCraft would performe as well with full synthetic oil as it did with a blend... I don't know yet if filter types still will perform as well if interchanged (conventional/blend with synthetic and vice versa). And lastly about block heater/heated garage: my garage is not heated, but for some (I think good) design and configuration in the way the house was built the garage never gets below zero Celsius. It's an attached garage and I think because of a combination of insulation and design it doesn't freeze up. The oil-firing-heating furnace room is located directly underneath the garage floor with an open stairway for access. The garage gets indirect heat loss from the furnace room, plus morning sunshine... It may be a poor design for nowadays's standards and codes regarding the environment, but it's nice to have, despite the heat "loss" As for the block heater, ...I haven't found the power cord in the Edge yet! Where should I be looking for it? I remember having a hard time locating the power cord in my 04 Intrepid; it was kind of hidden, well hidden But yes, whichever car stays out (I have room for only one in the garage) that will get the heater, ...if I can find the cord in the Edge! Many thanks to all and take care folks.

Hello enigma-2 and all! This is what I found: - 0W20: this oil grade seems not to be appropriate for use in the 2011 Edge as this oil grade does not meet Ford WSS-M2C930-A requirements. Note: some manufacturers of this oil grade meet other Ford requirements like -M2C945-A, -M2C946-A and/or -M2C947-A. However, my understanding and interpretation from all the readings I did is that an oil meeting the "latest" requirement (by numerical order) does not necessarily mean that the previous requirements (in reverse chronological order) are/were superseded. In summary, my interpretation is that if an oil does not specifically meet Ford -M2C930-A requirement, it means that its used has not been approved or officially accepted by Ford Motor Company. So, my initial thought to use oil with one grade down for the freezing months is out of "choice" (for me). Therefore, it's narrowed down to the 2011 Ford Edge Owner's Manual recommendation: 5W20 (allyearound), which is what many of you had said/written before - 5W20; which brand name? Oh well, all are good. However, I couldn't find info stating that Royal Purple meets Ford WSS-M2C930-A requirements. Therefore, I left Royal Purple out of my choices. My decision will be based on three things: availability, price and pouring temp (yes, I'm in Canada and I KNOW how the engine "cries" at startup after been sitting at -20/-25 Celsius degrees for hours, adding that my commute is only 7-8 min or 4-5 Km and therefore the engine has not even reached the operating temp when I shut it off again! And no, I can't walk 4-5 Km at -37/-42 Celsius with the windchill factor!! . Note: all 5W20 manufacturers reporting NOACK Volatility (% weight loss) have about the same good low value. 1. Amsoil is not available in the local store where I can get all the other brands at stiff discount prices (35%-55% off the regular price), but it'd definitively be the #1 choice; no doubts. 2. Surprisingly (for me) Pennzoil Ultra Platinum came up as my second choice (probably first, if I can't find Amsoil at a comparable price). It offers the second lowest pour temp, although also the lowest flash temp: 207 Celsius (not sure if that's OK or not). Another thing that I couldn't find about Pennzoil (which I'll really appreciate your help to find it out and let me know) is the mileage or time this oil is meant to be used for (6K km, 10K km, 24K km, 6 moths, one year???). 3. Movil 1 Extended Performance came very very close to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. As a matter of fact, if I can't know how long the Penn UP use is good for (mileage or time), I'll disregard its lower pour temp and choose M1 EP as my choice #2, or maybe #1 is Amsoil price is not comparable. 4. Quaker State Ultimate Durability, very very similar to M1 EP except that I couldn't find how long its use is good for either (mileage/time?). 5. Then came Castrol Edge EP. Why? ...Because... I like its name: Edge for my Edge (just kidding Of course it also has very good properties, characteristics and specs, but its pour temp is the higher among all other well known FSs. 6. Valvoline Synpower is the last (but not the very least) in my list. I just need to stop It's very comparable with the rest above and, actually, a very comparable price, like the cheaper (or less expensive) of all mentioned above. But I couldn't find how long it'll go either. If I have two pick two in a blink, they'll probably be Movil 1 Extended Performance and Castrol Edge Extended Performance because they offer a peace of mind in case I "forget" (neglect?) to change it on time. They both states to be good for up to 24-25K or one year. Amsoil states about the same but it's notably much more expensive compared to the discount/sale prices of M1 EP and CE EP. Filters? That'll be for another tread For now I'll go with M1 EP or FRAM US. They also states to work good for up to one year or 24-25K (again, just in case I want to thank you all once again for "pushing" me to read and making me learn a little bit about this immense world of engine/motor oils. Take care.

Ok; sure. Thanks. - Oil: Can anybody please provide the pouring temp for Castrol Edge EP and/or FS 0W20 and/or 5W20? - Filter: I have to confess that I never knew or heard before about the "rattle" caused by an oil filter. I don't know if it's a matter of fine-tuning my ears or that I was attributing certain noise to the pistons instead of the oil filter. Now, Ultra Synthetic FRAM filter states that it's good for synthetic oil. EP Mobil 1 filter states that it's good for both synthetic and conventional oils. MotorCraft is meant for blend oils (according to my interpretation of the info provided in this tread). The reason of my following questions is because while Mobil 1 filter states that it's good for both type of oils, FRAM filter states that it's good for synthetic oil (it doesn't mention conventional oil). My questions now are: - if I use MC filter, is it good/ok to use it with full synthetic/extended performance oils, or just with blend oils? - if M1 filter is good to use with both types of oils (synthetic and conventional, as stated by M1), is this "dual-type" filter better for use with synthetic oils than a ("single-type") filter meant to be used with synthetic oil only, as FRAM seems to be? To round up my questions: using a MC filter or a M1 EP filter (with EP or FS oils) is it any better than using a FRAM Ultra Synthetic filter meant for synthetic oil only? Or it doesn't matter if you use a synthetic oil filter with a conventional oil, or vice versa, for instance? And yes, chefduane, I have no rush to make a decision yet among sooo many choices and variables (plenty of time to the next oil change; that's why I'm consulting here now and appreciate everybody's input); and I also know that any oil is better than none, ..even for cooking! (in an effort at my humor LOL

I don't know what you mean with that cartoon above, chefduane (sorry, I don't get it); but if it's about me I'm doing some more "homework", or better said, "storework" to post later. For now, I DO appreciate all the comments, opinions and info contributed by EVERYBODY so far. I tried to obtain info for Castrol Edge EP and FS similar to the ones posted for for Mobil 1 and Amsoil specs, but I couldn't find those nice comparative charts or the list of specifications. Meanwhile (while I finish to gather and organize the info to answer some of your questions posted above), I wonder if anybody could provide a list of similar specs for Castrol Edge EP and/or FS 0W20 and/or 5W20, particularly pouring temp? I'd really like to keep Castrol Edge in the equation, if comparable and worthy. Thanks so far; stay tuned.

Hi folks! I didn't get lost! ...I was doing some home work (or trying to). Omar302, something pending that I wanted to clarify, and actually WWWPerfA_ZN0W (below) clarified a point you're missing: of course the engine still runs very hot, at its operating temp, even when the outside temp is below 20-30 Celsius degrees; and it certainly will overheat without coolant or cooling fans. The point you're missing is the critical point: at start up. When the car has been parked outside for a few hours at freezing temp, like when I leave work, and you start it, you can hear the metals grinding if you start the car being beside or inside it. Most people do it by remote control quite a few meters away and they never hear that metal-to-metal noise at start up... WWWPerfA_ZN0W, my driving is actually stop and go (no highway at all); just inner city (public trans is scarce, sporadic, infrequent, in case you wonder why I bother to drive). On top of that, I mostly drive my 04 Trepid. Therefore, the Edge will see weekends and a few highway trips and therefore much less than 10K a year (as long as the Trepid holds Amsoil and Redline are very expensive around here; Royal Purple 5W20 is slightly less expensive but, interesting, it doesn't meet Ford WSS-M2930-A (IF that matters). I can get (and stock up on) Pennzoil, QS, Valvoline, Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge in local stores at very similar or even cheaper prices than the Ford's Motorcraft oil. And that's one of the reason of my question: I'm not really doubling up the money when buying full syn comparing with Ford's Motorcraft oil blend; I'm actually paying about the same for Castrol Edge EP and Movil 1 5W20, the later having a claim that it "pours at oil temp as low as -42⁰C"! Both Castrol Edge EP and Mobil 1 meet or exceed the requirements of Ford WSS-M2C930-A, whatever it means (I don't really know if that's important or not). About the filters, I just thought in a similar way. But let me say something else first to make sense for the readers: if what I wrote above is OK for everybody (or most of everybody I'm planning to use Mobil 1 for the 4-5 winter months (pours at up to -42 degrees) and Castrol Edge EP for the remaining 7-8 months. Then, I thought to use Mobil 1 EP filter with Mobil 1 oil, and Ultra Synthetic Fram filter with Castrol Edge EP oil. Do you folks see anything wrong with that? Or I should still use Ford's Motocraft filter with Mobil 1 and/or Castrol Edge EP oils? I went to the recommended site (Tomstheoilguy.com) for oil, but I felt overwhelmed and couldn't find the pertinent info to learn if I should use Ford's Motocraft filter above Mobil 1 EP or Ultra Synthetic Fram filters. Chefduane, I have the same idea (Mobil 1 EP oil and filter), but check what I wrote (above) about Mobil 1 EP 5W20 not meeting Ford requirements (not sure if that matters or not). Glad (not really glad) but good to know that 0W20 gave you some issues. I already discarded after doing my homework as it doesn't meet the requirements of Ford WSS-M2C930-A, and ALSO, it doesn't pour at a temp lower than the 5W20 (I think it actually pours at -41 degrees; about the same as the 5W20 so, no extra protection for freezing temp). Question: does the valve cover blown has anything to do with the use of synthetic oil? I'm not a mechanic, and English is not my first language so, when mechanical and English vocabulary combine I get lost at large! LOL Enigma-2, I still don't understand why blend oil is the best of both worlds. Isn't it full synthetic oil? As I explained above, in my case, it costs me about the same. And when I say about the same, I'm talking about $5/jug oil change twice a year. So, about $10 more bucks a year. As I mentioned above, I couldn't find the pertinent info regarding Ford's Motocraft oil filter at Tomstheoilguy.com (I didn't know what to search for). Motorcraft oil filter costs $12.99 at Ford dealership; I can buy a Mobil 1 EP filter at the same price or $1-$2 cheaper, and the Ultra Synthetic FRAM filter about the same or even cheaper. Should I really use Motocraft filter above and combined with Castrol Edge EP and Mobil 1 oils? I will if you folks still recommend it. As per the use of the engine heater, I actually have a question before I answer your question: where inside the engine compartment can I locate the power cord for the block heater? I haven't seen it... Answering your question now: no, I (personally) don't use the block heater because... at home the car is in the garage, and at work there is nowhere to plug it in! That's it for now, folks. Again, sorry for my late reply but I hope that my homework might be useful for some folks as well. Let's take care all each other.

Hi folks: All info, comments, opinions and suggestions are very valuable, really, and appreciated, to the point that I definitively have some more home work to do As I bought my Edge used, I cannot guarantee 100% the type of oil that has been put in. However, the dealer's records indicate that most of the oil changes have been done at the dealership. And I write "most" because, on records, oil change intervals range from 19 months to 6 months. Therefore, I can assume that at least the last few changes (every 6-8 months) have been using the Ford blend 5W-20, although the last one apparently was done at a different dealership: Nissan (where I bought it). So, they probably used their own (which I don't know what type it was, but I could ask) instead of Ford's. Base on all your valuable comments, my question now is: assuming this car has used blend 5W-20 all the time (the worst casecenario, I think), do you think it's worthy for me to use full synthetic oil? Despite having a lot of miles on it, the car is in immaculate condition, bumper to bumper, roof to tires. So, I could (just could) assume that, when not by the dealer, the owner probably used the "best" oil (for his/her concept, which we know it may vary from person to person ) to change. I don't mind to expend the extra bucks in a better quality engine oil, IF it's truly a better choice (full synthetic from now on vs previously blend), the same that I won't mind to replace the trans and antifreeze fluids with the best quality products, including synthetics, if available and truly better products. I know a failure in those systems are costly repairs and I'm paranoiac about that type of failures. So, I happily prefer to expend on high quality oils and fluids than taking the chance of a failure/breakdown, if it depends on me. I'll have another related questions (coming from a reply comment to my introduction in the new members forum): best oil filters, but I'll wait for your replies on this current subject first (I don't want to mess up with these subjects Thank you all!

WWWPerfA_ZN0W, akirby is very right. I thank you very much for your very useful input. I'm going to carry your reply over to the technical forum (2011) and will follow from there. Thank you very much all!

Hum, I probably didn't express well myself when posting the intention of my questions. I really appreciate your both prompt replies; I just need to make sure that the intention of my questions gets thru. Omar, with all respect: you drive in Qatar; you don't get freezing-temperature winter there, if I remember geography correctly. I know what Ford recommends, and I also know what Chrysler recommends, and I'm not questioning or disagreeing the manufacturer's recommendations (who am I for that?); despite those recommendations, here in Canada, people and shops tend to switch to a less viscose oil during the winter months (it's or was a very common practice for the specific weather conditions). I don't know if that still is a common practice with newer vehicles... (technology changes, obviously). My question is mostly intended to those people experiencing driving under freezing temperatures (please, Omar, don't take offense; it's just a complete different environment, believe me; I used to live for many many years in a 28-38 Celsius degree almost all-year-around climate; a complete difference when the same number gets a minus sign "-" in front! . Akirby, I know the factory recommended oil has to be great to use all year around; I don't question that. What I really would like to know, the intention of my question is that if changing to a less viscose oil during freezing temperatures is a appropriate, is a good practice, has any advantage, or not. Also, the second intention of my question is to check prices for oils of similar grades and quality. I might be able to buy oil at the dept store for half the price of Fords, like Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, etc. But I need to know if anybody living up north has done that (I don't know where you're located, Akirby) ...or all the Edge owners just "go by the book"? Thank you both again for your replies.