TurboToad

That same complaint is shared by my wife and I on our 2017 SEL so it's not just the heated/cooled model. The side bolsters on both upper and lower sections plus the lower back area feel like the foam is too firm and the frame is too close to the seating areas. I've noticed this on other Fords where they toot their own horn about using recycled materials to make the 'green' foam. I would have to say they are the most uncomfortable front seats we've ever experienced. I'm thinking of having an upholstery shop make new seat plugs to flatten the bolsters and provide memory foam for the outer layers. I know some will say they will break in over time but I think the frame feel will be even more noticeable once the foam compresses any more. We love the car but have no desire to take it on an extended trip until we get this improved. I've been driving a 2017 4 Runner rental for 3 weeks now and the seats feel like sitting in a LazyBoy in comparison. Rant over!

Personally I would love another seat alternative for our 2017. The bolsters are just too narrow, foam is too firm, and the lumbar rides in exactly the wrong spot for both of us. I love the car but they are the most uncomfortable seats of any car I've ever owned, and I've owned some real losers! I wish my old 2003 F-250 Lariat leather seats would swap out, those were great.

I paid $27,805 cash for our new 2017 SEL AWD w/3.5L back in July, 2017. 2018's were not out for awhile so I think ours was a good price, $3K less than our local dealers would match, it was a no brainer or us

I'm more of the 'let it burn' crowd also unless you are emotionally vested or own a classic. First off, most people buy a cheap dry chem ABC fire extinguisher from a big box store. Problem is they are extremely corrosive to aluminum and wiring connections, Once moisture gets to all that powder you will be sorry as the first inclination is to wash it off making matters worse than the fire in some cases. The very best is Halon for gas and typical automotive fires as it works fast and leaves no residue. It's hard to find any more (recycled gas only) and very expensive. Next best is straight CO2, works well, leaves no residue but again is much more expense than the box store dry chem offerings. If you ever do 'save' your car from a fire get ready to argue some serious diminished value issues with your insurance company. Salvage title from a fire or flood is just about the worst thing to see due to future electrical problems.

Thanks All. I think I'll stick with the 3K for it's first change and then full synthetic. I have lots of time to think, it only has 900 miles since July and my wife obviously doesn't drive it very far. It probably needs to spend more time at varying freeway speeds. On every older motor I've re-built the single weight break-in oil was changed at 1000 miles or # hours; same thinking applied to new generators, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and any 4-cycle equipment.

I was wondering if there's any valid reason to change the oil the first time at a shorter interval on the 3.5L? I realize that new engines today don't require 'break in' quite like they used to and metallic wear deposits are nearly non-existent. I also know I had a new 91 Jeep that had so much casting medium left in the block the oil filter was nearly filled with it requiring a new crate motor at 5K miles. I am thinking I will probably change oil early at 3K and make the switch to full synthetic like I've always done, plus we keep our vehicles a long time. The Edge is used primarily on very short trips around town but Summer temps here are consistently 100+ deg. I've used the MotorCraft blend in my 2011 E-350 since new and it seems to be a good choice. Thanks

Ruby has that "Go ahead, make my day" look to visitors!

150K miles from a set of tires on a Corvette is absurd unless they are mounted with unobtanium valve stems. For those of you who have owned British cars this a must have spare part in your tool box.

I haven't really researched Fords TB but I assumed most every TB had an idle bypass circuit or IAC to allow for different accessory loads at idle, carbon buildup, or to compensate for failing sensors? Even fully closed shouldn't a TB still route minimal air through a separate bypass route within the TB?

The only tramlining I've ever experienced was with seriously staggered tire sizes on the front (245)/rear (285) of a front engined Porsche. Even then it was only noticeable on seriously truck worn interstate pavement or sometimes on concrete pavement commonly grooved for better rain traction. Unless you had a suspension component failure (doubtful on a 2017) it's hard to understand why it would sway. Sometimes excessive toe-in can cause issues resulting in a slight jerkiness in the steering wheel. Are your tires wearing normally in front? How many miles on them? Why would anyone want lower tire pressure on the passenger side although I doubt 1 psi would really make a big difference? Tire pressure should be the same.

I have the same tire, year, and model, Edge, and they are great at any speed I driven so far. I'm actually impressed how stable the Edge is at 75-80, much better than our 07 Highlander.

Don't ya love it when the description of a product doesn't match the Q and A? Thanks for pointing that out, I never read the questions. Nice looking one too!

That link clearly says it's a stick-on type mount. I'm looking for a screw on type also. "The hood shield is mounted using 3M automotive-grade adhesive. In order to protect the hood paint from rubbing against the shield if hit by debris, the set includes several clear rubber bumpers easily applied to the hood during the installation."

Thanks for the info, that makes more sense now.

I guess that solves it then but why would the horn beep to let you know you left it running? Someone would have to be pretty clueless to 'not know' their engine was running and just walk away. I just 'assumed' it was locked or I closed the door with my hand on the handle when i got out? That would be a nice feature though if it did work the way I described.